Peter,
The Mute on the AMP is activated by connecting the circuit between the +5V and the Mute terminal of the J6 block (just next to the 5V reg on the left side of the board).
It also starts up muted. If I recall correctly (likely not, but don't have the schematics to hand to check) if you increase the capacitance of C20 then this mute time will increase.
Changing the subject slightly, I'm running a 5.1 system from these amps and only need a single channel running on one amp for my centre channel. Tried a quick search on this thread-naught but I can't find much info on running just a single channel, a fair few questions on bridging though.
I seem to remember suggestions to put a load on the channel not being driven, but if the input isn't connected would it need a load?
Also what is considered a safe load, just some general searching on the internet throws up a bunch of links for some pretty heavy duty 1W paralleled resistors with an aluminum heat sink which would handle most Pentium 4s without sweating.
I'm guessing something would have to be done to manage the power draw, but not sure.
Any suggestions for getting a mono would be welcome (beyond buying a mono amp that is
)MUTE - TK2050 D-class Audio Amplifier Board
Thanks DanielPool
We might be looking at different boards, I am unable to locate C20/J6
http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/AA-AB009_Ver1.0_EN.pdf
My requirement is to mute the amplifier and minimuse the current drawn 2050 specs talks about 7-125mA Quiescent current
From what I can see there are 3 stages
-U1 SDA-704 (Mute on pin 10, R18, C23)
-U2/3 TC2000/soic (mute on pin 24, C15 r27, Hmute on pin 8)
-U4-7 TC2050/power so36 (no mute, tristate on p26)
Regarding your question on running single channel. Perhaps you could disconnect the power supply to final stage chips 2050 U4-U7(cut pcb track or event remove the chip itself)
Peter
Thanks DanielPool
We might be looking at different boards, I am unable to locate C20/J6
http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/AA-AB009_Ver1.0_EN.pdf
My requirement is to mute the amplifier and minimuse the current drawn 2050 specs talks about 7-125mA Quiescent current
From what I can see there are 3 stages
-U1 SDA-704 (Mute on pin 10, R18, C23)
-U2/3 TC2000/soic (mute on pin 24, C15 r27, Hmute on pin 8)
-U4-7 TC2050/power so36 (no mute, tristate on p26)
Regarding your question on running single channel. Perhaps you could disconnect the power supply to final stage chips 2050 U4-U7(cut pcb track or event remove the chip itself)
Peter
Im looking at getting one of these Tripath based amps to use in my truck, I want to hide a small amp under the dash to prevent theft...
Can these amps push speakers with a 2 ohm load? Ive got a pair of Infinity Reference 4x6 speakers now and theyve got a 2 ohm load per speaker...
Can these amps push speakers with a 2 ohm load? Ive got a pair of Infinity Reference 4x6 speakers now and theyve got a 2 ohm load per speaker...
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Peter, yes we are looking at different boards. This thread is mostly about the 2x100W board. You could try this thread which is about your board. It's not as active as this one, so you should keep trying here as maybe someone else can help, I think Sendler has experience with both types of board.
That is one way to do it though I was hoping for something a little less terminal
I actually have an 8-channel amp on the plans (once the ministry of finance and approval has OK'd more home project chaos) with some DIY speakers and general bi-amping going on. Thanks very much for the suggestion though.~Daniel
Daniel, could you please give some more info about the mute function? Like you, I use 3 amps for a 5.1 setup and at the moment I just have the front speakers and the center connected with no problems at all for the single-loaded board.
I have two minor problems: 1) the fans are noisy and I can hear them from the speakers too, I don't know why... it's like a low hum that stops if I stop the fans with my finger. 2) When I start the amps I get a "bump!" from the speakers, it's not too loud but I'd like to eliminate it... maybe the mute could help me with this.
Last question, I have a single power supply for three boards which are connected in series... should I run them in parallel? Hod did you connected them?
Here's some pics of my amp
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hope you like it.
Thank you,
Francesco
Francesco, that's a pretty neat looking build. There is a wiki page for this amp that I'm guilty of having put together by copying and pasting things other people have said. It's very much a work in progress (the birth of my baby girl a few months ago means progress is near zero) but it does have some info on the problems you are seeing.
Just to quickly chuck out some thoughts though.
The fans have been observed to chuck out interference into the signal path from both the fan motor and it's effect on the 5V reg. Zalman produce a nice cooler which fits the board and is completely passive. I've popped these on in addition to putting some 120mm fans in my cabinet to get some moving air. Basically, loose the stock fans as fast as you can.
The turn on thump you are getting is because your SMPS is having to fill all the caps across your three boards. I actually use separate power supplies but have read that parallel will produce the better sound. This will mean your SMPS will have to do a lot more work on start up, possibly even triggering it's protection mode. Elifish posted a soft start circuit you could look at which will help with the inrush current and also give you your mute function. You may need to make some modifications to get it working for all three amps. I'm sorry but I'm not good enough with electronics to help there. I'd played with the idea of this but wasn't sure what the necessary changes would be. As it is with separate power supplies I don't have that problem even though I have added more than stock capacitance.
Hope that helps a little, let us know how it goes.
Mack,
I'm not 100% sure but I think that someone might have talked about low impedance speakers earlier and surmised that after cabling is taken into consideration the impedance is pretty much 4ohms anyway. You might want to search the thread to make sure though, my memory is definately not something to be relied on. You will also want to consider power. The board's sweet spot is 30V, you'll have trouble getting exactly that on batteries and whilst the amp is OK it's not at it's best (reported to sound muddy with less bass when compared to higher voltage operation). You'll also want to consider air circulation and cooling. The footwell can get a lot of hot air depending on how cold it is outside. If your board is under the dash it may get this and overheat, something this board suffers from. Make sure you give it lots of cool air and a good heat sink.
Good luck with your build.
~Daniel
Thump
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Your power supply is already paralleled even if you are using the connectors on the boards to go from one to the next. If you are lucky enough to get three boards running from one supply without audible whine in some of the channels, I wouldn't change the wiring.
The fans are electrically noisy. The best fix is to replace them with a Zalman passive heatsink. The turn on thump is caused mainly by the charging up to 2.5v of the input cap. It is normal for this amp. I haven't tried the mute but for that to help on start up you would have to supply a 5v signal to the mute pin first before you turn on the main power supply. If you are messing with time delayed switching, you might as well do it with speaker protection relays at the output. I will be posting about how to do this with modules from Connexelectronics in a few weeks.
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Your power supply is already paralleled even if you are using the connectors on the boards to go from one to the next. If you are lucky enough to get three boards running from one supply without audible whine in some of the channels, I wouldn't change the wiring.
thanks for the advice
I was thinking the same thing, but I do know that this amp will only be run at maybe half power as well, the front speakers are 45 watts RMS, hopefully heat wont be too much of an issue
as for power supply I was planning on using a voltage regulator and will probably look at a transformer/regulator that gives me 30 volts as well
I see several on ebay that have a 12v input with an adjustable output of up to 55V in some cases
hmmm, i dont see an option to edit my post... >.>
anyway, I forgot to add that I will take some ohm readings from the speaker wires when i get to my digimeter in the morning and see what im getting
I never through about resistance in the wire adding up to a couple ohms but i supposed its possible
will know more when i get home in the morning
anyway, I forgot to add that I will take some ohm readings from the speaker wires when i get to my digimeter in the morning and see what im getting
I never through about resistance in the wire adding up to a couple ohms but i supposed its possible
will know more when i get home in the morning
... take some ohm readings from the speaker wires when i get to my digimeter in the morning and see what im getting
I never through about resistance in the wire adding up to a couple ohms but i supposed its possible
will know more when i get home in the morning
As I said my memory is a dicey thing, so probably best to investigate further. I just did a quick search but couldn't find the earlier reference I was talking about (may not have even been this thread), but thinking about it, it might have included crossovers as well in which case adding a few ohms would seem more reasonable than a speaker cable that put that much resistance in. Probably best to just assume I'm talking rubbish
Hi,
I searched this tread but found nothing : Is somebody there tried the new Connexelectonic single PSU ? description here
The 24V model (500W, 20A) should be the good solution to power 3 amp and to reduce the space.
I want to build an amp with this power amp and a T1 hifimediy TK2050. I already have an amp TK2050 4X100W Sure, but I want to try Himediy TK2050. is there anywhere a comparison test between Sure 2x100W and Hifimedy TK2050 T1 or T2.
Sorry for my poor english.
I searched this tread but found nothing : Is somebody there tried the new Connexelectonic single PSU ? description here
The 24V model (500W, 20A) should be the good solution to power 3 amp and to reduce the space.
I want to build an amp with this power amp and a T1 hifimediy TK2050. I already have an amp TK2050 4X100W Sure, but I want to try Himediy TK2050. is there anywhere a comparison test between Sure 2x100W and Hifimedy TK2050 T1 or T2.
Sorry for my poor english.
Comparison
I haven't seen a comparison but the Hifimediy doesn't have the noisy fan. His T1 is a low power single chip. Why not go with the T2?
Hi,
I searched this tread but found nothing : Is somebody there tried the new Connexelectonic single PSU ? description here
The 24V model (500W, 20A) should be the good solution to power 3 amp and to reduce the space.
I want to build an amp with this power amp and a T1 hifimediy TK2050. I already have an amp TK2050 4X100W Sure, but I want to try Himediy TK2050. is there anywhere a comparison test between Sure 2x100W and Hifimedy TK2050 T1 or T2.
Sorry for my poor english.
I haven't seen a comparison but the Hifimediy doesn't have the noisy fan. His T1 is a low power single chip. Why not go with the T2?
I'm using the new upgraded version with a rotary encoder volume board. Now I would like to y-split the signal for each channel after the volume control. The purpose of this is to fed an active sub.
I have attached the wires as pictures shows.
If I connect only right channel to sub everything is fine but if I connect both channels, or left channel alone, a wining sound appears and voice coil on the test speaker literally burn up.
Obviously I have done something wrong but the question is what?
Attaching pics of wiring.
Regards Håkan
I have attached the wires as pictures shows.
If I connect only right channel to sub everything is fine but if I connect both channels, or left channel alone, a wining sound appears and voice coil on the test speaker literally burn up.
Obviously I have done something wrong but the question is what?
Attaching pics of wiring.
Regards Håkan
Attachments
Microcontroller on the Sure 2X100W?
I just bought a new Sure 2X100W TK2050 amp from Parts Express. It has some interesting differences from the original Sure TK2050s I bought on ebay (the one without a fan).
The new board is the same width, but is longer. The extra length provides room for the rotary encoder volume control add-on Sure sells on its website.
There's a second 5v voltage regulator, most likely for the fan, which is thermal activated, so it is off and silent unless you're pushing things hard.
The extra length also gives more room around the output coils (making them easier to swap out). In this space on one side is a microcontroller (!), a PIC16F690. There's a space for a 6-pin jack and four resistors. Does anyone have any idea what these are for?
Finally, while the components are in approximately the same places (except the stuff on the back has been moved to the front), the layout of the traces is different and some the components are numbered differently. So some of the mods in this thread may not work as described (and may damage the board).
BTW, the new board sounds just great, even before any mods.
dr_vega
I just bought a new Sure 2X100W TK2050 amp from Parts Express. It has some interesting differences from the original Sure TK2050s I bought on ebay (the one without a fan).
The new board is the same width, but is longer. The extra length provides room for the rotary encoder volume control add-on Sure sells on its website.
There's a second 5v voltage regulator, most likely for the fan, which is thermal activated, so it is off and silent unless you're pushing things hard.
The extra length also gives more room around the output coils (making them easier to swap out). In this space on one side is a microcontroller (!), a PIC16F690. There's a space for a 6-pin jack and four resistors. Does anyone have any idea what these are for?
Finally, while the components are in approximately the same places (except the stuff on the back has been moved to the front), the layout of the traces is different and some the components are numbered differently. So some of the mods in this thread may not work as described (and may damage the board).
BTW, the new board sounds just great, even before any mods.
dr_vega
Hi there,
I've just recieved mine, will do the main mods on this board, comparing layout on the earlier and latest manuals. I'll report if I fry something... as soon as my board sing! Power supply at 31.5V DC, DC offset fine, source OK, works nicely on my TA2025 but no sound from that big Sure :'( I hope it's a "oh that was just that" like a solder blob or such...
Scott,
what would be the difference on sound between a 4.7 Wurth coil, 0.47 caps replacing the 3 laready on the board, and a second step with the Zobel (0.47 & 14R with 4xR//?)
Pic of my silent board and link to the manual:
http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/down.php?name=AA-AB32181_Ver1.0_EN.pdf
I've just recieved mine, will do the main mods on this board, comparing layout on the earlier and latest manuals. I'll report if I fry something... as soon as my board sing! Power supply at 31.5V DC, DC offset fine, source OK, works nicely on my TA2025 but no sound from that big Sure :'( I hope it's a "oh that was just that" like a solder blob or such...
Scott,
what would be the difference on sound between a 4.7 Wurth coil, 0.47 caps replacing the 3 laready on the board, and a second step with the Zobel (0.47 & 14R with 4xR//?)
Pic of my silent board and link to the manual:
http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/down.php?name=AA-AB32181_Ver1.0_EN.pdf
Attachments
Mine did the same thing. In fact, I sent the first one back. When the second one was the same, I thought, maybe I'm missing something here.
For reasons I can't fathom, the new amp is shipped with the four little tiny switches turned off. In this configuration, no sound comes out. Flip them on and everything will be fine.
These four little switches set the gain for the amp, two for each channel. In the earlier versions of the amp, sound came out in every configuration. In the new board, if both switches are off for a channel, the channel is silent.
Also, the manual is for the first version of the amp, so the layout and schematics do not necessarily match your board. You'll have no trouble swapping caps and coils, but be careful if you are cutting traces.
-dr_vega
Zobel
I always did the coils and caps together for a nice improvement in transparency so I don't know how much difference changing the output caps makes. The Zobel tends to tame any slight glare and ultrasonic peaking that comes from the low value coils.
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I always did the coils and caps together for a nice improvement in transparency so I don't know how much difference changing the output caps makes. The Zobel tends to tame any slight glare and ultrasonic peaking that comes from the low value coils.
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