Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

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I hope you dont get your hopes up about price, cause its just a board with €20 of parts, and some time. Though, for some considering this board and no soldering skills, it might be worth the try.

No worries at all. I am relocating and having to reduce my things. If that means also helping out an audio fan at the same time, then that's worth any monetary loss.

Andrew
 
Can you tell me what a buffer tube pre-map may sound like if connected to this board?
I'm talking about this one from arjenhelder.

New product The MKII 12AU7 buffer amp without tube on eBay (end time 29-Oct-10 02:33:59 BST)

I wanted to do an input mod as well to this board but don't know if its a good idea to remove the voltage suppressors on the bottom. in fear I may fry the chip if used in conjunction with this buffer amp.

thank you!!

A pre-amp will surely improve the sound's dynamic. I highly raccomand to use one.
I personally used a modded tk2050 with the old version of that buffer and it worked fine.
 
Does anyone one think these capacitors will be suitable for replacing the stock 4x 330uf on the 12v rail?

2 X ELNA SILMIC II 3300uF 50VDC ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR! on eBay (end time 30-Oct-10 10:54:57 BST)

So that would be one large one on each side compared to the 4 x 330uf ones. I've herd that 2 x 2 Panasonic FM 1800uF/35V are recommend on this forum but they seen hard to get hold of.

Is better to use multiple caps to make up the required capacitance or its it best to use single ones as I have found some more ELNA SILMIC II that are the same rating as the stock ones. And is over rated capacitance a good thing?

ELNA For Audio SILMIC II 50V 330UF HI-FI Capacitor on eBay (end time 28-Oct-10 08:20:32 BST)

If any one can point me in the right direction I would be very grateful. Please be patient with me as I'm quite new to this sort of thing.

thanks
 
Does anyone one think these capacitors will be suitable for replacing the stock 4x 330uf on the 12v rail?

2 X ELNA SILMIC II 3300uF 50VDC ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR! on eBay (end time 30-Oct-10 10:54:57 BST)

So that would be one large one on each side compared to the 4 x 330uf ones. I've herd that 2 x 2 Panasonic FM 1800uF/35V are recommend on this forum but they seen hard to get hold of.

Is better to use multiple caps to make up the required capacitance or its it best to use single ones as I have found some more ELNA SILMIC II that are the same rating as the stock ones. And is over rated capacitance a good thing?

ELNA For Audio SILMIC II 50V 330UF HI-FI Capacitor on eBay (end time 28-Oct-10 08:20:32 BST)

If any one can point me in the right direction I would be very grateful. Please be patient with me as I'm quite new to this sort of thing.

thanks


Best to use is multiple caps, within limits ofcourse. As the ESR (equivalent series resistance) of 2 paralleled caps is lower than that of one bigger cap, 3 is even better. Thats why the sure board has some small film caps parallelling the elcos.
 
I have some questions about the 4*100 version
I will use this with 2 tweeter, 2 woofer and a subwoofer
Can i put the tweeter and the woofer in paraller? because originally they are at 4 ohm, and in parallel will be 2ohm , is it a problem?

Why there are 2 RCA in?

I will not use the last channel, can i use it to amplfy more the subwoofer, using both channels?

Is there any italian that ordered it? how many days of delivery? conditions of the box?
 
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First off thanks Daniel Pool, for the wiki, but I just read (eyes glazed) through it, it might as well be in the tiki wiki langage of diki.

All fine and dandy for the relics, but for newbies it sucks. Is there no guides for startlings (just made that word up)? What I mean is can I connect this to that and it will work.

Anyway a startling in waiting.
 
SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V

Quick question.

I have the Parts-Express SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V (060-770)

It has 3 connectors on it. (+, A, Ground). How do I wire this for my Sure board? Also, since the LED is for 12V, I will be using 30V, I believe I will need to put a resistor on this.

Could someone explain to this newbie how to wire this up with a resistor? Also, what would be the best value resistor?

Thanks,

Allen..:)
 
AC ?

Quick question.

I have the Parts-Express SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V (060-770)

It has 3 connectors on it. (+, A, Ground). How do I wire this for my Sure board? Also, since the LED is for 12V, I will be using 30V, I believe I will need to put a resistor on this.

Could someone explain to this newbie how to wire this up with a resistor? Also, what would be the best value resistor?

Thanks,

Allen..:)
Don't you want to use an AC switch to turn off the power supply and the amp together?
 
Guess

Quick question.

I have the Parts-Express SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch w/Blue LED 12V (060-770)

It has 3 connectors on it. (+, A, Ground). How do I wire this for my Sure board? Also, since the LED is for 12V, I will be using 30V, I believe I will need to put a resistor on this.

Could someone explain to this newbie how to wire this up with a resistor? Also, what would be the best value resistor?

Thanks,

Allen..:)
I would guess that ground would just go straight in and back out from the ground pin if you want the led to work. You might have to remove the original led resistor and put in a bigger value. 3 times as large? Positive goes in on the + and out on the A? Measure for continuity with a volt meter while operating the swaitch to find out how it is set up.
 
Hi there,

as a PSU is quite expensive:

will a single MeanWell 36V/9.7A down to 32V be enough for 2 amps, each driven hard as speakers are not efficient? A dedicated PSU on each amp will bring something sound wise and/or having 2 will avoid for a single one's fan to turn on?

second, going for a big heatsink and passive cooling (hope it will be reliable with 86db/W speakers...), will the PSU turned down to 30/28V (and bother with PCB's linked R) allow for less heat, enough to sacrifice SQ and time wasting in changing R13, R17, R25, and R31?

Thanks!
Matthieu
 
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4 channels?

Hi there,

as a PSU is quite expensive:

will a single MeanWell 36V/9.7A down to 32V be enough for 2 amps, each driven hard as speakers are not efficient? A dedicated PSU on each amp will bring something sound wise and/or having 2 will avoid for a single one's fan to turn on?

second, going for a big heatsink and passive cooling (hope it will be reliable with 86db/W speakers...), will the PSU turned down to 30/28V (and bother with PCB's linked R) allow for less heat, enough to sacrifice SQ and time wasting in changing R13, R17, R25, and R31?

Thanks!
Matthieu
Do you need 4 channels? Running two amp boards from one power supply sometimes generates a weird, whistling noise. You will need two supplies. My Zalman heatsinks never get hotter than 50C at 32V.
 
I would guess that ground would just go straight in and back out from the ground pin if you want the led to work. You might have to remove the original led resistor and put in a bigger value. 3 times as large? Positive goes in on the + and out on the A? Measure for continuity with a volt meter while operating the swaitch to find out how it is set up.


What I did was, put a 680 ohm resistor in line on the ground side. Works well at 24 volts. I have to try 30 volts next to make sure the LED isn't to bright, otherwise I will need a larger resistor.

Thanks for your help.

Allen ...
 
Hi DC on output

I've been doing some well known tweaks this weekend such as changing of inductors with Wurths, changing the output filter caps, removing unnecessary binding posts, input capacitors and diodes.

Unfortunately, hi DC appeared on output. Depending of the input gain it's 22V and 24V, both channels. With the gain off there is no output dc.

What could went wrong?

The supply voltage and polarity should be of no concern.

Removing binding posts and output inductors was particularly painful so even overheating comes to my mind.

Is tc2000 damaged or tp2050 or both?

How could I check this?

Thank you all guys.

Baki
 
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