Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

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The text in the drawing is not quite right. If you bridge the stock cap and use your new cap in a different location than the stock one, such as on the way from a case mounted rca to the board, you must remove the input resistor or else you will be shorting the 2.5v dc bias that sets the output offset trim. You may install a different input terminating resistor before the cap or just leave it out. My dac sounded better with a 20k terminating resistor.

Thank you Teamacc & Scott for responding.

I've attached the mod of the orginal board that I'm trying to achive. I will be using an Alps 50k Blue Velvet pot and 2.2uF Auricaps. I'm using these componets because I have them on hand. Since I have 5 of these new Sure boards I probably will be using different componets for the others. Any recommendations are welcomed.

So what I'm hearing is that I will:

1. Remove ceramic input cap.
2. Bridge small film input cap.
3. Remove input suppressor.
4. Remove input resistor.

Does this sound correct?
 

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Left

Just like the picture on the left. Everyone uses 50k pots but they are too high for a passive control if the position ends up anywhere other than nearly wide open. 10k will sound more dynamic and have better frequency extremes. 2.2uf is a good trade off between cost, size, bass extension, and turn on pop.
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Thank you Teamacc & Scott for responding.

I've attached the mod of the orginal board that I'm trying to achive. I will be using an Alps 50k Blue Velvet pot and 2.2uF Auricaps. I'm using these componets because I have them on hand. Since I have 5 of these new Sure boards I probably will be using different componets for the others. Any recommendations are welcomed.

So what I'm hearing is that I will:

1. Remove ceramic input cap.
2. Bridge small film input cap.
3. Remove input suppressor.
4. Remove input resistor.

Does this sound correct?
 
Just like the picture on the left. Everyone uses 50k pots but they are too high for a passive control if the position ends up anywhere other than nearly wide open. 10k will sound more dynamic and have better frequency extremes. 2.2uf is a good trade off between cost, size, bass extension, and turn on pop.
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Excellent. Thanks.

Now with this setup and new Wurths, would it be best to put a Zobel in? If so, what value?

I can perform the mods, but I don't have a good understanding of the relationships between the components. So thank you for setting me straight.
 


Sorry I missed that.

Thank you again. I will start my build tomorrow. I have 5 amps. I will build one first and see how it sounds. I will let you know. I will have to order the inductors, so I'll first be listening to the 2.2 Auricaps and the 50k Alps Blue Velvet which I currently have on hand. Then when the inductors come in, I'll install them and see how much the sound improves.
 
Hi,

I will receive my amp in 2-3 days, but i have a problem!

I have a active crossover and i want use them in this order:


Sound source = > Crossover = > amp => Speaker

This "sure" amp have a limit of the input, (2v rms)
My acttive crossover send a max 9v rms!

What i need do to use them?


srry about the bad english,,, i m from Brazil.


thks!
 
Sendler,

You have recommended the Wurth inductors. I read that you have tried several; 4.7,3.9 & 3.5. I did not read that you tried a Wurth at 10uH (stock value). I was wondering, if Wurth's construction is better than OEM, will stock values make a significant improvement in sound quality/quantity without the added thermal gain that the lower values have been described as adding and not need the Zobel?

First post. Please excuse my poor grammar, I went to public school.

Thank all for the work and shared knowledge in the posts.

Bill
 
10

I never tried the Wurth coils at 10uH.
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Sendler,

You have recommended the Wurth inductors. I read that you have tried several; 4.7,3.9 & 3.5. I did not read that you tried a Wurth at 10uH (stock value). I was wondering, if Wurth's construction is better than OEM, will stock values make a significant improvement in sound quality/quantity without the added thermal gain that the lower values have been described as adding and not need the Zobel?

First post. Please excuse my poor grammar, I went to public school.

Thank all for the work and shared knowledge in the posts.

Bill
 
Wiki page and a few quick questions

Hey guys,

I've been pulling together a wiki page for this amplifier and some of the modifications possible. It's by no means complete as I've only reasoned through to the start of page 88 whilst gathering notes.

If you fancy a read and want to comment please do so on this thread.

I want to say a big thank you to Audio1st, Elfish, Dr Vega and Sendler (amongst others) who've trail blazed for us and whose posts I have taken the majority of content from.

~Dan

P.S. I was hoping to get the page into better order before inviting comment and critique but my wife is due with our first child in the next few days and something tells me I'll have to put some projects on hold for a bit :)
 
Oops

Hey guys,

I've been pulling together a wiki page for this amplifier and some of the modifications possible. It's by no means complete as I've only reasoned through to the start of page 88 whilst gathering notes.

If you fancy a read and want to comment please do so on this thread.

I want to say a big thank you to Audio1st, Elfish, Dr Vega and Sendler (amongst others) who've trail blazed for us and whose posts I have taken the majority of content from.

~Dan

P.S. I was hoping to get the page into better order before inviting comment and critique but my wife is due with our first child in the next few days and something tells me I'll have to put some projects on hold for a bit :)

Whoops, I forgot the questions (I've also seen that posting via my iPhone is not a great idea as some words have been helpfully converted by the dictionary).

Anyway, early on in the thread it was noted that the Zobel Network (R38-R41 & C34 and R45-R48 & C48) hadn't been included by sure. I've seen some implementation of off board output filters which are closer to, or what Tripath specified (the Zobel there was a 10Ohm resistor and 0.47uF cap in series). I was wondering whether anyone has implemented the Sure filter and whether you used SMD components? I believe Dr Vega made a comment to that effect?

Also there was mention of replacing some of the other SMD components on the board, resistors for thin film etc; again I think that Dr Vega had suggested he was going to do this, and Audio1st mentioned changing caps ... but not sure if that included some of the SMD caps.

Anyway, would anyone who has care to comment on whether there is an improvement in sound.

Thanks guys,
~Dan
 
Selling my modded Sure 2*100W board

To let you know, I have my modified Sure 2*100W board on auction at this link here

It is fully working and has the following modifications:

  • Replaced the output inductors with better Wuerth 4.7uH 9A rated versions
  • Changed the fan-based heatsink to a passive Northbridge heatsink from Zalman
  • Removed the on-board input resistors R14 and R34
  • Removed capacitors C17 and C25
  • Removed capacitors C16 and C24 and replaced with appropriate shorting links
  • Removed the input suppressors underneath the board, by the RCA inputs
  • Removed the polarity diodes (replacing with a short) from the DC rails on the board

As usual it will require the enclosure, connectors, input caps and (if required) a potentiometer.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
To let you know, I have my modified Sure 2*100W board on auction at this link here

It is fully working and has the following modifications:

  • Replaced the output inductors with better Wuerth 4.7uH 9A rated versions
  • Changed the fan-based heatsink to a passive Northbridge heatsink from Zalman
  • Removed the on-board input resistors R14 and R34
  • Removed capacitors C17 and C25
  • Removed capacitors C16 and C24 and replaced with appropriate shorting links
  • Removed the input suppressors underneath the board, by the RCA inputs
  • Removed the polarity diodes (replacing with a short) from the DC rails on the board

As usual it will require the enclosure, connectors, input caps and (if required) a potentiometer.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I hope you dont get your hopes up about price, cause its just a board with €20 of parts, and some time. Though, for some considering this board and no soldering skills, it might be worth the try.
 
I have this kit from Sure Electronic yesterday. Without doing any mod, the sound out from the box is fairly good but needs a few hours of run in to mellow down the sound.

I read in this thread that it is not recommended to use pre-amp with this amp. I am current using bi-amping using this one as well as the Sonic T-amp to run the tweeter.

Can I simply connect these two amps directly from my CD via a Y-splitter? How do you guys do it?

Thanks.
 
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