T/S drivers are matched so that the drivers are close. Most importantly sensitivity is matched to less than 0..25 dB — across a sample of 20 units i have measured up to near 1 dB difference despite the Mark Audio having the tightest grouping fom any manufacturer i have measured.
Sensitivity is about 87 dB but people seem to be able to drive them nicely with less power than you would think. They sound particularly good with 2A3 SE (3.5w) and the Pass Amp Camp Amp (6w) but for regular use in a room we recommend 10w.
Near field you can get away with less. And with a single driver you don’t have to worry about being far enuff away for 2 (or more, as in a multiway) separate sources to integrate.
EnABL is most visible in the spots you see on the driver. What you hear is more DDR (downward dynamic range) — the small details that give more life and reality to instrument & voice and the critical information needed to provide a good 3d image/soundstage (if on the recording).
It is very controversial, how could those spots do anything? But those that have heard it, can’t live without.
Bud has put the tech into the public domain and you can learn what you need to know to diy. What it can’t do is give you the experience. There are at least a couple thousand units before the ones pictured and they are still not perfect (not that that seems to make a difference)
Stock drivers can be had for less from Madisound.
dave
The normal "Pick two" can be difficult to balance,
1) high efficiency
2) small size
3) deep bass
+
4) tube friendly
and adding Tube Friendly impedance requirements may place additional restrictions on the crossover circuit. Not impossible, but some sonic changes might be necessary. Curve: 7-to-10.5 ohms for the SB Acoustics TM with LR4 circuits.
1) high efficiency
2) small size
3) deep bass
+
4) tube friendly
and adding Tube Friendly impedance requirements may place additional restrictions on the crossover circuit. Not impossible, but some sonic changes might be necessary. Curve: 7-to-10.5 ohms for the SB Acoustics TM with LR4 circuits.
Attachments
90db efficiency is possible if 5-ohm amplifier loads are acceptable. Room gain plus desk gain will boost SPL at frequencies <200Hz.
See attached 7" Satori MW19P-4 + SB29RDC-4 tweet
-----------------------
Picture of HarryY's office after 5 years of building tube amps.
See attached 7" Satori MW19P-4 + SB29RDC-4 tweet
-----------------------
Picture of HarryY's office after 5 years of building tube amps.
Attachments
90db efficiency is possible if 5-ohm amplifier loads are acceptable. Room gain plus desk gain will boost SPL at frequencies <200Hz.
See attached 7" Satori MW19P-4 + SB29RDC-4 tweet
-----------------------
Picture of HarryY's office after 5 years of building tube amps.
You may be closer than you realise
I was already considering buying some bare speakers just to experiment with.
If you'll be within about 5 feet of the speaker, you don't need a very fancy high power expensive set of drivers. Trying to increase the high frequencies with a passive crossover is a poor way to do that. You end up with either an abrupt jump in the frequency response at the crossover frequency, or if a passive EQ circuit is added in, you end up with a very low efficiency speaker. Tone controls ahead of the power amp are the way to mess with the treble or frequency response in general. then you get gradual transitions in the final frequency response, which should sound significantly better. That "Hitmaker" speaker kit mentioned above looks like it would probably be a good choice for your situation.
I actually was a bit surprised myself, I really was thinking
I had screwed up and bought an amp that was way to light.
In the beginning of this whole thing I went looking for a full range speaker.
I wound up ordering a set of Golden Ratio Cabinets from Planet 10.
I still need to order the drivers, but I'm still undecided as to how
I want to finish them so that will dictate the color of the driver.
My desk is made from finished 3/4" Birch plywood and it's fairly light
so if I finish the speaker cabinets to match the silver may look better.
If I finish them dark to closer my Monitors then the copper may look better.
It will mostly depend on when I see them and make final a decision.
I appreciate all the suggestions.
Thank you
It's the Elekit TU-8200. I'll have to take a picture tomorrow.
It actually went together pretty quick.
I was pretty impressed with the quality of the kit.
I like to build kits ang I've built a lot of kits over the years (mostly for Amateur radio)
and the Elekit amp was one ove the nicer kits quality boards, quality parts, etc.
It was a little pricey but after building it I'd have to say it was a fair price for what i got.
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