Thanks Salas,
I've been running the BiB and I'm finding the current mosfets are running just warm but the two at the output side of the board are running very hot. I'm using the same heatsinks as for the Quad FM4 tuner power supply which don't get this hot.
What can I do to reduce the temp apart from using a bigger heatsink?
The transformer is 25Vac, 1A. Do you think I should use a 22Vac, unit instead?
I'm going to increase the output voltage to see if that reduces the heat.
Chris
I've been running the BiB and I'm finding the current mosfets are running just warm but the two at the output side of the board are running very hot. I'm using the same heatsinks as for the Quad FM4 tuner power supply which don't get this hot.
What can I do to reduce the temp apart from using a bigger heatsink?
The transformer is 25Vac, 1A. Do you think I should use a 22Vac, unit instead?
I'm going to increase the output voltage to see if that reduces the heat.
Chris
I'm thinking of using these regs to power my Xono clone which has a seperate power supply outputting +- 38V dc. On the bib pcb's can I make a common ground between the plus & minus boards or would it be better to make the output from the p/s into a four wire connection. As the power supply has a pretty high capacitance what would be the lowest value capacitor I could use on the regulator boards or would it be best to use the 10'000uf as the supply is a couple of feet away from the phono stage.tia.
Hi, it will be better to employ 4 wire transmission especially for a phono stage. By having an already rectified and filtered source, you must not populate rectifying diodes on the reg board and use a 470uF good quality capacitor instead. That is to decouple the incoming wiring DCin to the reg. You will have to attach those incoming wires to unpopulated spots left by not using the diodes where they meet reg's main capacitor (+) & (-).
These few weeks been busy on BiB shunt regulator since I got my 3 boards (separated into 6 positive and 3 negative smaller boards).
Done all these:
1. 2x positive for 3.3v for Buffalo II duo mono because the trident is dead. I change both side. Nice improvement, it is much smoother.
2. 1x positive for 13.5v power supply of 2024 tripath amp. Huge improvement; bass is slamming, deeper, better separation, sound pressure much higher. I know a lot of people using a small wall wart to power it, but you didn't know the beast inside can be released with a good power supply. Must try, but careful with the heat, it is really hot!
3. 2x positive for 5v regulators in Sony 338ESD CD player. Another jump in quality, a lot of micro details.
4. 2x negative convert to positive for 3.3v clock and regulator in Hiface digital transport. It lose to Sony 338esd by a whisker, but still got 1 more regulator not yet replace. Can anyone teach me how to build a 1.8v shunt regulator?
Now left with 1 positive and negative boards, am thinking to mod my Marantz CD50 or O2 amp but a bit lazy already and I think need to buy more board and components. To much adrenaline rush these few weeks, need to sit down and enjoy more music instead of sitting at the working desk holding soldering gun or DMM to measure here and there.
Salas and Tea-bag, nice invention you got there. Keep it up.
Thanks.
Done all these:
1. 2x positive for 3.3v for Buffalo II duo mono because the trident is dead. I change both side. Nice improvement, it is much smoother.
2. 1x positive for 13.5v power supply of 2024 tripath amp. Huge improvement; bass is slamming, deeper, better separation, sound pressure much higher. I know a lot of people using a small wall wart to power it, but you didn't know the beast inside can be released with a good power supply. Must try, but careful with the heat, it is really hot!
3. 2x positive for 5v regulators in Sony 338ESD CD player. Another jump in quality, a lot of micro details.
4. 2x negative convert to positive for 3.3v clock and regulator in Hiface digital transport. It lose to Sony 338esd by a whisker, but still got 1 more regulator not yet replace. Can anyone teach me how to build a 1.8v shunt regulator?
Now left with 1 positive and negative boards, am thinking to mod my Marantz CD50 or O2 amp but a bit lazy already and I think need to buy more board and components. To much adrenaline rush these few weeks, need to sit down and enjoy more music instead of sitting at the working desk holding soldering gun or DMM to measure here and there.
Salas and Tea-bag, nice invention you got there. Keep it up.
Thanks.
don't waste your time with the hiface supplies when feeding sabre, particularly clocks, i power mine with batteries just because its easy, takes up virtually no space and doesn't polite gnd, doesn't need a transformer and minimal wire routing. but a 2300mah A123 battery lasts nearly 1 month with it constantly on, because there is virtually no current draw and mclk is not even used when supplying the es9018, it only uses its own clock for async reclocking of everything unless slaved in synchronous NOS mode
Hi qusp,
Thanks for the tips, I have thought of that when look at jkenny mod, but I want to build something that is maintenance free, I am too lazy to think when to charge or chance battery. I tried LM1117 to supply 3.3 before but these shunt regulators is much smoother.
Since we are in this topic, have you try to bypass the Hiface output transformer? give it a try, I have better bass with it bypassed.
Thanks for the tips, I have thought of that when look at jkenny mod, but I want to build something that is maintenance free, I am too lazy to think when to charge or chance battery. I tried LM1117 to supply 3.3 before but these shunt regulators is much smoother.
Since we are in this topic, have you try to bypass the Hiface output transformer? give it a try, I have better bass with it bypassed.
i think you missed my point, there is ZERO point replacing the clock regulators on the hiface if you are using it with buffalo dac or any sabre dac, this regulator powers mclk on the hiface, sabre reclocks everything and does not even accept mclk from the hiface or any source, so the quality of the power supply for the clock on the m2tech is irrelevant. i used batteries on my aku24 (ackos usb module based on the hiface oem module) not for sound improvement, but for 100% practical reasons, but it doesnt hurt that it doesnt pollute ground
Coolhead,
You can achieve down to 1.2V by using a diode instead of LED. I used BYW29EX
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BYW29EX_SERIES.pdf
with 30ohm for very stable 1.2V. Other low Vf diodes work as well http://www.vishay.com/docs/88761/88761.pdf
Whether it is better than other circuit designed for low voltage output I cannot say.
Hi qusp, I am not a technical person, I don't know much about electronics. I read some where in HiFace mod topic, the clock signal is supplying to CPLD IO banks & the clock is Muxed & buffered there. The by products are MCLK and SDATA. As you said, BII will ignore MCLK but isn't SDATA is very important?
Hi alazira,
You mean replace the Dx02A&B, 03 and 04 LEDs with diode?
Thanks.