Your way is the proper way when using a piezo tweeter.
Some of them have frequency all the way out to 30Khz!
Some of them have frequency all the way out to 30Khz!
Here's the crossover I'm going to be building.
I don't mean to imply that you guys don't know what you're talking about, but I'm going to have to give this a try since these guys have built these before and have discovered that this is what would be needed to make the drivers I purchased sound excellent.
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video, and Electronics Customer Discussion Forum From Parts-Express.com - Chris Roemer's Album: Official Nano Neos and "ntn" album - Picture
I don't mean to imply that you guys don't know what you're talking about, but I'm going to have to give this a try since these guys have built these before and have discovered that this is what would be needed to make the drivers I purchased sound excellent.
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video, and Electronics Customer Discussion Forum From Parts-Express.com - Chris Roemer's Album: Official Nano Neos and "ntn" album - Picture
One day I'm going to be able to know exactly what that all means, but right now, you might as well be speaking in french. all I understood was 3.3khz crossover, lol.
I suppose I should read up on what all those orders mean.
1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th orders are crossover slopes, 6dB per octave, per order. So a 4th order is 24dB per octave.
A ZOBEL is an impedance compensation network. Typically a drivers impedance rises with increasing frequency due to voice coil inductance, so a ZOBEL makes the circuit appear resistive instead of reactive.
An L-pad is two resistors in the shape of an "L" used to attenuate (lower the volume). Most often used on a tweeter. You could attenuate with only one resistor, but the second resistor holds the circuit impedance down to a desired level.
Thanks for the explanations. I'm having quite a bit of fun learning about all of this.
Xtreme - I was referring to all ideas leading you to a proven design and examples set forth as well as suggested links.
Appears you're a quick study if you're absorbing all stated and have a plan.
I'd personally have preferred to see you do a proven design with HiVi or simply a true FR sans XO as Dave suggested but it appears you have a plan.
Good Luck.
You've already got the Bug. No getting rid of it now. Welcome to the Mental Illness. Weren't Drugs cheaper? Then again; maybe thats what led many of us to speaker building.
Appears you're a quick study if you're absorbing all stated and have a plan.
I'd personally have preferred to see you do a proven design with HiVi or simply a true FR sans XO as Dave suggested but it appears you have a plan.
Good Luck.
You've already got the Bug. No getting rid of it now. Welcome to the Mental Illness. Weren't Drugs cheaper? Then again; maybe thats what led many of us to speaker building.
not that any of us would condone the inhalation of solder fumes or wood-dust except under medical supervision
I do learn and absorb information pretty quickly, and this is of great interest to me.
Regarding proven designs, I needed something with a bit more punch than the HiVi units. I'm still going to attempt something with those drivers, though I'm not sure what yet.
And yeah, the bug has bitten me pretty badly. I'm already making plans for finishing these with a piano black gloss. This will be a very interesting design.
not that any of us would condone the inhalation of solder fumes or wood-dust except under medical supervision
But that's half the fun!
I have another idea to run past you guys. I'd like to mount the crossover components on a pretty gloss black board. I'd then create a cubby hole inside the back of the speakers (and increase height to compensate for the volume lost), mount the crossover inside the cubby hole, and put a sheet of acrylic over it so you could see the crossovers. Still not sure if I'm going to go through the trouble, but I think it would be neat.
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That was pretty crazy! (And I don't mean just firing up a V12 minus head gaskets...)
I can see you constructing your own electrostatic speakers pretty soon! (You wanted tall and narrow with no crossovers, right? And hate paper cones? Perfect ESL candidate!)
You'd get along fine here. There are 2 XJ6, an XJ12, a spare V12, and manual tranny. One of the XJ6 is gonna get the engine out of the XJ12 and the manual tranny, the other XJ6 gonna get the tranny out of the XJ12 (not me doing it thou)
dave
Cows bells?
Because of your spelling typo, I had a little bit of a fun figuring that one out!
Actually the more accepted terminology is "flared."
https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=404_85
Attachments
Actually, that is no easy feat. Anyway take a look what one guy managed to accomplish!
Jazzman's DIY Electrostatic Loudspeaker Page
Great job !!!
Only 1 thing : the flares behind speaker baskets should be 45° truncated cone ,not rounded .
Thanks! Unfortunately, those rounded flares were the only option for me. I am already over-budget for this build with having to buy the router bits. The trimming and roundover bits together were $38. Perhaps when I build a set for myself I might be able to pick up a 45 degree bit, but at this point its not an option for me. I imagine the roundover should work still work fairly well though. The roundovers are actually 1/8" recessed into the board as well.
I may give the file a try, but at this point I have so much work left to do and so little time to do it in.
The finish will consist of the following:
2 coats of 50/50 Titebond II wood glue and water (as a sealer and a way to make a very smooth surface), with 400 grit sanding between coats
2 coats of brushed primer with 600 grit sanding between coats
3 coats of high gloss Rustoleum Painter's Touch black
1 artistic layer of my wife's painting with white, with a very light sanding to smooth the brush marks.
3 layers of high gloss automotive clear coat enamel.
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