@aditya and @psmith001 One small thing, while I do have audio output now, I'm missing the ability to adjust the volume. When I change the volume on the WiiMu app or whatever streaming app I'm using I can see the volume adjustment take place in the API response but beyond the audio turning off at volume 0, it's all just at one volume. Any ideas?
yes, we do not have a volume control - Reason: the code for the DAC volume is for WM8918 if you connect the I2C of the LinkPlay A28 to the I2C of WM8918 you will have volume control.This might help : Post #3
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...module-i2s-dac-connection.339687/post-5958954
the Same happens with my ES9023P Acrylic board.
Oops, that was missed (excitement for it to be working ) out along with we do not have any access to the UART to send stuff. The UART currently functions only for Debug text output.
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the thing is this firmware was written for Labeled products and not for DIY guys like us. Hence what we may have thought of being useful for us may not be the same for companies like Arylic, iEast, Sonus, or the various vendors Linkplay works with.
though if you search the Arylic Forum for serial communication you will find some questions replied to by a gentleman called Frank(helpful).
From whatever communications I had with him, it went like he didn't have firmware that would work like what we have. And seems basically he works with Arylic or Arylic is another Brand of Wiimu to get the product out to the masses - I may be wrong
though if you search the Arylic Forum for serial communication you will find some questions replied to by a gentleman called Frank(helpful).
From whatever communications I had with him, it went like he didn't have firmware that would work like what we have. And seems basically he works with Arylic or Arylic is another Brand of Wiimu to get the product out to the masses - I may be wrong
@npb1313 and @psmith001
I tried to use the USB from the laptop and feed the audio from the dac to the laptop to hear it on the internal speaker but best would be to use two different supplies as there was a lot of clicks and taps from the wifi module.
But if you use a headphone you do not hear any noise as there is no ground loop
I tried to use the USB from the laptop and feed the audio from the dac to the laptop to hear it on the internal speaker but best would be to use two different supplies as there was a lot of clicks and taps from the wifi module.
But if you use a headphone you do not hear any noise as there is no ground loop
I hate to revive an old thread, but do you have a partslist for your board? or at least what ethernet connector you used, and what goes on the pads for I2S input and output?
This is the part I used for the ethernet connector:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Elektronik/7499010121A?qs=SaTeGCoDkn19K3ZBsCJq1A==
The pads at the I2S input and output are U.FL connectors and purely optional if you don't want to use the standard 2.54mm headers.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/U.FL-R-SMT10?qs=Ux3WWAnHpjBT1CWD8UMEMQ==
C1 : 150uF (10V or higher) electrolytic capacitor
C2 : 0.1uF film capacitor
C3 : 0.1uF ceramic capacitor
R1 & R2 : 75 ohm (not required - they're called out on the schematic for LAN LEDs, but I couldn't get it to work)
Headers : 2.54mm
Hope this helps!
Please let me know if you're able to get this to work with all sampling rates.
Peet
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Elektronik/7499010121A?qs=SaTeGCoDkn19K3ZBsCJq1A==
The pads at the I2S input and output are U.FL connectors and purely optional if you don't want to use the standard 2.54mm headers.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/U.FL-R-SMT10?qs=Ux3WWAnHpjBT1CWD8UMEMQ==
C1 : 150uF (10V or higher) electrolytic capacitor
C2 : 0.1uF film capacitor
C3 : 0.1uF ceramic capacitor
R1 & R2 : 75 ohm (not required - they're called out on the schematic for LAN LEDs, but I couldn't get it to work)
Headers : 2.54mm
Hope this helps!
Please let me know if you're able to get this to work with all sampling rates.
Peet
With that input, the board seems to work close to what I want it to do!
I have one big ask, and no is a perfectly fine answer. Would it be possible to get the source PCB files? I'd like to make it a bit smaller and switch the headers around a bit, and reversing it from gerbers is more work than it ought to be.
Would have sent it in a PM, but apparently I'm not able to start one yet.