This should be moved to the "Don't try this at home, folks" section. While a 741 can work, why? There are so many better choices that cost literally pennies.
Digi-Key single qty. pricing for an 8DIP made by TI:
LM741: $0.70
NE5532: $0.96
OPA134: $2.94
There's no good reason, even in quantity (where the difference in price falls to just cents), to not use the '5532 instead of the '741. Personally I use the '2134 version of the '134 almost everywhere that doesn't call for something else, but for cost constrained applications the '5532 or its dual has a lot going for it.
Digi-Key single qty. pricing for an 8DIP made by TI:
LM741: $0.70
NE5532: $0.96
OPA134: $2.94
There's no good reason, even in quantity (where the difference in price falls to just cents), to not use the '5532 instead of the '741. Personally I use the '2134 version of the '134 almost everywhere that doesn't call for something else, but for cost constrained applications the '5532 or its dual has a lot going for it.
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Forget it.
All of this thread is driven by guys who want to *SELL* you the kit, so they do not post the schematic, or readable pictures or usable PCBs, and only *FUZZY* out of focus pictures.
This is not an informative thread but an infomercial, like those seen in Cable TV at 3 AM, offering "wonderful stuff".
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We know, we aren't stupid - but it's OK, part of the fun.
I think I've seen a schematic that would be similar to what is described here. If I remember, it isn't just an op-amp driving a pair of power devices - the power rails themselves are part of the picture, part of the output.
No, it's not.
That's not a schematic but the silkscreen layer from a PCB.
Of course, if you have an actual schematic, please feel free to share it
Well, maybe you or me are not, but a lot are still trying to build it, rather than having fun.
Or at least trying to know whether it's *worth* building it.
MICRON
SIR, RAV PREET THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS PCB MORE POWER TO YOU SIR...
SIR, RAV PREET THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS PCB MORE POWER TO YOU SIR...
Actually it is. Everybody screaming for a schematic that they can find on their own given a little digging. Trouble is, everyone is looking in the wrong place.
There simply aren't more than three ways to do this, and two of them are wrong.
Stamp of approval
Good news. Your Amplifier has received a positive review by Destroyer X.
"Nice amplifier my dear detex man" and "Sounds good".
It is great to have a choice between this Amplifier and similar designs by DestroyerX. It would be very difficult to make a choice without seeing the results of more comprehensive Tests.
Good news. Your Amplifier has received a positive review by Destroyer X.
"Nice amplifier my dear detex man" and "Sounds good".
It is great to have a choice between this Amplifier and similar designs by DestroyerX. It would be very difficult to make a choice without seeing the results of more comprehensive Tests.
...ts ts ts that wasn't nice of you Art M ...
Destroyer X amplifiers have much more work on them next to someone that copy a stupid kit add a pcb and a few fancy outputs in high voltage rails .
Most important DestroyerX is here and working continuously presenting his schematics and ideas ...often simple but most of the times very well supported so if you have questions about his amps you may ask him ...at least you always going to get an answer with his opinion .
It is bad to my opinion to criticize a HARD working diy person this detex thing and Destroyer X have absolutely nothing common .
Kind regards
Sakis
Destroyer X amplifiers have much more work on them next to someone that copy a stupid kit add a pcb and a few fancy outputs in high voltage rails .
Most important DestroyerX is here and working continuously presenting his schematics and ideas ...often simple but most of the times very well supported so if you have questions about his amps you may ask him ...at least you always going to get an answer with his opinion .
It is bad to my opinion to criticize a HARD working diy person this detex thing and Destroyer X have absolutely nothing common .
Kind regards
Sakis
I see two issues with this circuit right up front. One, if you disconnect the input when it's on and hooked up to a speaker, the positive input of the op amp has no path to ground, so the op amp output could oscillate or fly to one of the rails and stay there. Two, correct me if I'm wrong but by tying the feedback 100uF cap and associated resistor (820R?) to the negative supply instead of ground, I would think you'd get a rather severe positive going pulse at the output at the moment the amp is powered up, while the 100uF cap charges up. Either of these issues could be very hard on the speaker.
If you were to go with a 5534 in place of the 741, you need to know that 5534's aren't unity gain stable (5532's are). I think I heard that they need a gain of at least 3-4 to be stable (free of continuous or sporadic oscillations above the audio frequency range - physical layout will affect this significantly - also power supply bypass caps near the opamp). Tl071 should be a good replacement though. A kid playing guitar wouldn't notice a difference, but an adult using it for Hi-Fi may well. Hope this helps.
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