Oh Wow!
Hello,
Another happy oh wow transport complete. Just need to make a box to match the sound quality I'm currently hearing. It's the best I've ever heard from CD.
Many thanks to Tibi and all the other project builders for making this a smooth build. Fault finding was much easier having read the forum for this build.
Off to listen to CDs for the evening with a glass or two of beer,
Cheers
Hello,
Another happy oh wow transport complete. Just need to make a box to match the sound quality I'm currently hearing. It's the best I've ever heard from CD.
Many thanks to Tibi and all the other project builders for making this a smooth build. Fault finding was much easier having read the forum for this build.
Off to listen to CDs for the evening with a glass or two of beer,
Cheers
Attachments
Still screwed up!
I tried 2 new CD mechanics today. Turn on power, Mechanics tries to read TOC, but then comes up with two zero's. Both new Mechanics do the exact same thing. Don't know what to do. Also, could someone direct me to instructions on how to post pictures to this forum. I looked everywhere, but can not find them. Also, does the motor cable go straight across from connector to connector? So it would go from 1-6, 2-5, 3-4, 4-3, 5-2, 6-1?
Or do any of the wires cross over to a diff. pin. Thanks all.
Tony G.
I tried 2 new CD mechanics today. Turn on power, Mechanics tries to read TOC, but then comes up with two zero's. Both new Mechanics do the exact same thing. Don't know what to do. Also, could someone direct me to instructions on how to post pictures to this forum. I looked everywhere, but can not find them. Also, does the motor cable go straight across from connector to connector? So it would go from 1-6, 2-5, 3-4, 4-3, 5-2, 6-1?
Or do any of the wires cross over to a diff. pin. Thanks all.
Tony G.
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Hello,
Another happy oh wow transport complete. Just need to make a box to match the sound quality I'm currently hearing. It's the best I've ever heard from CD.
Many thanks to Tibi and all the other project builders for making this a smooth build. Fault finding was much easier having read the forum for this build.
Off to listen to CDs for the evening with a glass or two of beer,
Cheers
Thank you !
Such feed-back make me very happy.
Cheers
,Tibi
I guess you have removed laser protection bulb.
Replay to this message, scroll down to "Manage Attachments" button, click on it and a new window will pop-up, in the new window browse and select pictures you want to attach from your computer, click "Upload" button, wait to have files transfered, close "Manage Attachments" windows and submit you replay.
Regards,
Tibi
CD drive issues
Guarnera,
Imagine you were looking at both 6 pole sockets on the mech and PCB side by side. Then the most righthand pin for example on the Drive socket will mate with the most right hand pin on the PCB socket. It is very easy to look at the reverse of the drive and the PCB and figure it out. You will see which tracks go where and can reference them using the drawing if still not clear. Usually if you have the this connector reveresed the laser sled just motors to the end stop and keeps hitting it
My own TOC problem was the 6-pole connector not making correctly. I also modified my drive and ruined it and whilst it's working now, it doesn't look pretty and I've had to substitute wires for PCB tracks. I spent a day going round in circles checking all the connections and was going to get the oscilloscope out, but then I rechecked the 6 pole connector and hey presto.
Usually Occam's Razor applies in 99.9% of problems.
Hope you get some joy soon.
Aleks
Guarnera,
Imagine you were looking at both 6 pole sockets on the mech and PCB side by side. Then the most righthand pin for example on the Drive socket will mate with the most right hand pin on the PCB socket. It is very easy to look at the reverse of the drive and the PCB and figure it out. You will see which tracks go where and can reference them using the drawing if still not clear. Usually if you have the this connector reveresed the laser sled just motors to the end stop and keeps hitting it
My own TOC problem was the 6-pole connector not making correctly. I also modified my drive and ruined it and whilst it's working now, it doesn't look pretty and I've had to substitute wires for PCB tracks. I spent a day going round in circles checking all the connections and was going to get the oscilloscope out, but then I rechecked the 6 pole connector and hey presto.
Usually Occam's Razor applies in 99.9% of problems.
Hope you get some joy soon.
Aleks
Yes, I removed the solder blob from both mechanics, The motor cable is making contact on both ends. I will try to post some photo's of the pads I butchered. There is no cap in C8 position. But when I last tested I had the EVO cap in place, making contact with the trace to pin ten on LA9242, and soldered in to pad on other end.
Attachments
Couldn't edit my last post. So as you can see, pads on both sides of brd. are lifted on the end of C8 that goes to pin 10 on LA9242, however the trace to pin 10 is still accessible. On the other end of C8, of the 3 pads, one is lifted on the top side. What a mess I've made!
You need to put C8 back. It will not read TOC without C8.
Connect the cap with one pin to trace to pin 10 and the other one to one end of C9.
Regards,
Tibi
Hello Tibi,
Yes, I know. I had the EVO cap in as described, when I tested. I took it back out to photograph what I had done to the pads on the brd. So I went to reinstall the EVO cap, but one of the fine leads broke off at the body of the cap. So, I have the .1uf Copper V-Cap installed. One end to the trace going to pin 10. The other end soldered to it's pad, which makes contact with C9, and all the rest that it is supposed to make contact with. Now when I power up I only get two flashing dash's. No zero's, No CD, or Laser movement? Same if you press CD Door, Nothing but flashing dash's. I checked that the trace to pin 10 on LA9242 isn't shorting to any other pins on the LA9242, and that the other end of C8 was connected to all it's other parts. Help!!
Well, I found a broken wire on the motor cable. Fixed it. Now it does what it did before when I had the EVO cap in. Power up without a disk on, and motor turns in little spurts about 3 or 4 times while the laser tries to focus in and out, but the sled is not moving. Put a disk on and hit CD Door, and the CD spins while the laser tries to focus as the sled moves back and forth trying to read TOC, but then comes up with two zero's on the display.
Well, I found a broken wire on the motor cable. Fixed it. Now it does what it did before when I had the EVO cap in. Power up without a disk on, and motor turns in little spurts about 3 or 4 times while the laser tries to focus in and out, but the sled is not moving. Put a disk on and hit CD Door, and the CD spins while the laser tries to focus as the sled moves back and forth trying to read TOC, but then comes up with two zero's on the display.
I suggest you to pack the kit and send back to me.
Regards,
Tibi
Tibi,
Thank you. Is your return address on your site? And do you want the whole kit back, including Mechanics, Power Supply Brd., and Tranny? or just the Main Brd, and display? I will send Brd as is, with the Copper Foil V-Cap installed. This way. if you can fix it, you will have a brd with V-Cap to audition. Thank you so much.
Tony G
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motor cabel
Tibi,
in the shiga schematic (shigaclone_diyaudio_rev9_28092012.pdf) the motor cable has the following pins:
connector J2:--------------------Sanyo pcb board:
1 = GND ----------------------- 6 = GND
2 = P-SW -----------------------5 = P-SW
3 = SL + --------------------------4 = SL -
4 = SL - --------------------------3 = SL +
5 = SPIN - ------------------------2 = SPIN -
6 = SPIN +------------------------1 = SPIN +
is that correct. I think. I think the SL pins are reversed.
Raimund
Tibi,
in the shiga schematic (shigaclone_diyaudio_rev9_28092012.pdf) the motor cable has the following pins:
connector J2:--------------------Sanyo pcb board:
1 = GND ----------------------- 6 = GND
2 = P-SW -----------------------5 = P-SW
3 = SL + --------------------------4 = SL -
4 = SL - --------------------------3 = SL +
5 = SPIN - ------------------------2 = SPIN -
6 = SPIN +------------------------1 = SPIN +
is that correct. I think. I think the SL pins are reversed.
Raimund
Thank you !
Such feed-back make me very happy.
Cheers
Tibi
Hello Tibi and others,
Even the ' normal' shiga plays super fantastic ! A real pleasure !
Cheers too.
Hello Tibi and others,
Even the ' normal' shiga plays super fantastic ! A real pleasure !
Cheers too.
Thank you, Sigurd !
Cheers
Hi Tibi,
Thanks so much for your kind help in arranging my MK2 tested kit, I finally got it all connected and been playing for the last 2 days. the result is better than the MK1 and much better than the JVC shigaclone built, with the same laser I had before, I can read almost all disk now without problem even duplicated disk using some junk blanks. Track to track movement and seek is fast, startup in reading the TOC is fast and still zero missed. The board looks very nice and leave room for much to play with (pushing to a even higher level), Thanks !
Now I have 70+ pages of the built thread to read thru, first thing I notice is the CAP swap for C8, I just happen have 2 on hand and would like to try. These are my collection from 1996.
REL-CAP RT 0.1uf 600VDC
Pro-CAP Silve foil PIO 0.1uf 650V
Jensen Copper foil PIO .22 600V
Would they be an waste of time or which one I should try first? Any suggestion ?
Thanks so much for your kind help in arranging my MK2 tested kit, I finally got it all connected and been playing for the last 2 days. the result is better than the MK1 and much better than the JVC shigaclone built, with the same laser I had before, I can read almost all disk now without problem even duplicated disk using some junk blanks. Track to track movement and seek is fast, startup in reading the TOC is fast and still zero missed. The board looks very nice and leave room for much to play with (pushing to a even higher level), Thanks !
Now I have 70+ pages of the built thread to read thru, first thing I notice is the CAP swap for C8, I just happen have 2 on hand and would like to try. These are my collection from 1996.
REL-CAP RT 0.1uf 600VDC
Pro-CAP Silve foil PIO 0.1uf 650V
Jensen Copper foil PIO .22 600V
Would they be an waste of time or which one I should try first? Any suggestion ?
Thank you for feed-back !
I have a nice experience with REL-CAP.
I never used PRO-Cap, so I can not advice you. Jensen seems to be a bery good choice, but 0.22uF will make tracking quite slow.
Go for REL or PRO and let us know which soumd best.
Regards,
Tibi