I am sorry to hear your nightmare. Here are couple of suggestions:
The fact that you used step up transformer could be the problem. Depending no Shanling design and capacitor ratings, it may be possible that higher than nominal capacitor voltage rating caused some damage. You were supplying more than 220V, which could produce DC voltage levels above capacitor nominal voltage levels.
Get the circuit diagram and check voltages around servo section. Check main power supply voltage levels first.
The new mechanism you installed probably had a solder bulb somewhere to protect the laser from static discharge; did you remove it?
Boky
Re: Re: deja vu all over again
Cheers EB! I'll try that before I replace the motor. It'll take a while to evaluate since it is an intermittent fault but I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.
These VAM's come with a metal clip across the ribbon connector instead of the usual solder blob.
Best regards,
Martin.
Extreme_Boky said:
Cheers EB! I'll try that before I replace the motor. It'll take a while to evaluate since it is an intermittent fault but I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.
Extreme_Boky said:
These VAM's come with a metal clip across the ribbon connector instead of the usual solder blob.
Best regards,
Martin.
I was looking at this treat (allways usefull to read a lot).
I read about the soder bulb, i allways was wondering why there are in Philips 600 series cd-players a "fat"bulb of solde was put on the print, so that is for discharging!
Thanks.
And i wish you good luck with repairing your cd-player!
Greetings Ralphies.
I read about the soder bulb, i allways was wondering why there are in Philips 600 series cd-players a "fat"bulb of solde was put on the print, so that is for discharging!
Thanks.
And i wish you good luck with repairing your cd-player!
Greetings Ralphies.
If you guys want to try another source for the transport, MCM electronics sell original Philips transport VAM1201, VAM1203 and CDM12.1 for $26.47. If that is the right model.
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp...name=3830467&product_id=32-18255&info=details
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp...name=3830467&product_id=32-18255&info=details
Glad to say my Shanling cd-t80 is back to spinning cd's and sounding quite nice with the OPA2132's. All this without sending it to the repair shop. On seeing that the original cdm (that I had replaced) worked when I connected a 1.5v battery (post 36) I figured there might be an intermittent connection. I removed the screws holding the board that sits below the cdm. photo and gave a little push to all the plastic wire connectors making sure that they were seated properly. I put the board back in place and to my surprise it came back to life.
Hello all i have a shanling t100se and when i turned it on tonight,It moves the cd anticlockwise in a few pulses then says no disc.....
Im gutted to say the least but do you guys think the lazer mechanism is whats dead?Its what im thinking after reading this thread(Thankyou to phill) Any help is great,thanks.
Im gutted to say the least but do you guys think the lazer mechanism is whats dead?Its what im thinking after reading this thread(Thankyou to phill) Any help is great,thanks.Shanling cdt 100 cd player problem
Hi everyone it seems iv messed up my Shanling cdt 100 cd player. I recently brought a couple of upgrade tubes they were Western Electric 6N3P. Since iv changed them the tube option does not work there is a very very very faint sound of the music coming from the speakers. The direct output option on the inputs do work and music plays as normal but as soon as I swap for tube output option there is no volume. The disc is turning and the display is working correctly. Also the blue light that circles the lid has stopped working. I put the original tubes in and the same thing happens. I brought the Western Electric 6N3P a few months ago but only put them in today because of house decorating. Can anyone recommend a Shanling cd repair company please.Thanks
Cosmicalien
Hi everyone it seems iv messed up my Shanling cdt 100 cd player. I recently brought a couple of upgrade tubes they were Western Electric 6N3P. Since iv changed them the tube option does not work there is a very very very faint sound of the music coming from the speakers. The direct output option on the inputs do work and music plays as normal but as soon as I swap for tube output option there is no volume. The disc is turning and the display is working correctly. Also the blue light that circles the lid has stopped working. I put the original tubes in and the same thing happens. I brought the Western Electric 6N3P a few months ago but only put them in today because of house decorating. Can anyone recommend a Shanling cd repair company please.Thanks
Cosmicalien
In that case, the circuit damage is very, very likely to be relatively minor and in either the high voltage or the filament supply. It's extremely unlikely to be elsewhere. Any tech with decent number of years of tube gear service should be able to find & fix the fault without too much trouble. May be that either you had a W.E. tube with internal short or was wrong pinout(5670/6N3 does have a strange pinout). AFAIK, the 396 is the only pin-compatible W.E. tube for 5670. They are not meant to have made a 2C51(perhaps someone sold you fakes?).
I really do hope so. The guy I brought them off owns a company called Real Hi fi based in Wigan. We had lengthy chats on the phone and via email he used to sell really exotic equipment. I rang him to obtain advice about upgrades for the Shanling cd player and he said he had a couple of Western Electric 2C51 tubes for blah blah blah and now it has led to the complete failure of the tube section of the cd player. He did say he had them for a long time and are dated as manufactured in 1954. Thanks for your reassurance I feel a lot better knowing it may not be a serious problem.
Thanks Cosmicalien
Thanks Cosmicalien
Incidentally, the T100 sound SUBSTANTIALLY better if you disable the horrid GIC filter used for lowpass. It's as simple as popping two chips out of their sockets(I believe it is the middle one in each of the two rows of chips following the PCM1704 dacs, as I recall), and you're done. With the high OS, the filter is not needed, and disabling the GIC has absolutely no negative consequence in any practical way.
Of course, if I owned one, I would eliminate opamps entirely from the analog path, and rewired the tube sockets to allow using normal pinout 6DJ8/12AX7/etc. types. And completely reconfigure the tube circuits to a better topology. And some other things. It would get to be a lot of work.;-)
Of course, if I owned one, I would eliminate opamps entirely from the analog path, and rewired the tube sockets to allow using normal pinout 6DJ8/12AX7/etc. types. And completely reconfigure the tube circuits to a better topology. And some other things. It would get to be a lot of work.;-)
Shanling problem
Although the post regarding your problems with your Shanling cd player is 6 years old I’m hoping you read this. I recently inherited a Shanling SCD T-200 that had been sitting uncovered in a garage for years. I’d never heard of Shanling before. I’ve read it’s supposed to have a magnetic clamp that fits on top of the cd and holds it in place as it spins and is being read. It is missing the magnetic clamp. I’ve read that the device will not work without it. I contacted Shanling (who no longer make or service cd players) and was told “it’s over 15 years old and no parts are available”. Shanling confirmed the device will not work without the magnetic clamp and they know of no work around. I contacted USA Tube Audio in Arizona who state they no longer service Shanling devices due to lack of parts. They saiid Shanling “went out of business about 4-5 yrs. ago and left a lot of angry customers high and dry” (actually, as far as I can tell they are still in business but no longer make or sell cd players ). Which brings me to my question: does your Shanling cd player have a magnetic clamp and are you willing to sell it to me? I figure if your device is still an aluminum clad paperweight you might be willing to sell that part. I’m in San Francisco CA
Although the post regarding your problems with your Shanling cd player is 6 years old I’m hoping you read this. I recently inherited a Shanling SCD T-200 that had been sitting uncovered in a garage for years. I’d never heard of Shanling before. I’ve read it’s supposed to have a magnetic clamp that fits on top of the cd and holds it in place as it spins and is being read. It is missing the magnetic clamp. I’ve read that the device will not work without it. I contacted Shanling (who no longer make or service cd players) and was told “it’s over 15 years old and no parts are available”. Shanling confirmed the device will not work without the magnetic clamp and they know of no work around. I contacted USA Tube Audio in Arizona who state they no longer service Shanling devices due to lack of parts. They saiid Shanling “went out of business about 4-5 yrs. ago and left a lot of angry customers high and dry” (actually, as far as I can tell they are still in business but no longer make or sell cd players ). Which brings me to my question: does your Shanling cd player have a magnetic clamp and are you willing to sell it to me? I figure if your device is still an aluminum clad paperweight you might be willing to sell that part. I’m in San Francisco CA
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