I've added a couple more photos. One from underneath shows the laser pick-up motor and the spindle motor. motors The other is looking down at the laser pick-up and transport tray. laser pick-up From what I can see the laser pickup motor moves the laser head. I can't see any light coming from it though. There's no attempt to spin the cd at all. I can spin it a little by hand but it does nothing on its own. If I test the motor by hitting it with some dc as Steve mentioned I imagine I would first need to disconnect it. How many volts dc? I've found a cdm 12.1 pickup mechanism for $20 at electronix.com in Ohio. I'll run the test on the motor before ordering it.
My VCD player, as well as a Philips boombox uses this same mechanism. You cannot get CDM12.1 anymore but the VAM1201 or VAM 1202 works as well. I replace the lens about once every two years when the lazer wears out. The symptoms when the lazer wears - the motors do not spin the disc. Meanwhile there are clicking sounds as the head move up and down tryng to focus and detect the CD. If it cannot detect the CD, it displays no CD and the CD do not spin spins. If it is not a sudden death situation with the lazer, the player starts to work intermitently as the lazer weakens. You can get anther couple of months out of the lazer as it weakens by slightly adjusting the little pot on the flex as seen on your frst picture. After a while, the adjustments does not work anymore, and will need a new one. I no longer bother as the lazer is cheap enough anyway. I keep a couple of spares at home since I will be replacing them regularly.
My cheap chinese VCD player ( US$20 then ) died after one month, and I had to replace the lazer. Probably because it was manufactured with remanufactured lazers with a slight adjustment to the pot!
My cheap chinese VCD player ( US$20 then ) died after one month, and I had to replace the lazer. Probably because it was manufactured with remanufactured lazers with a slight adjustment to the pot!
Thanks cm! Yes I'm I'm hoping it just needs a laser replacement. It does what you describe. The noise while trying to focus and read the disc. Then the no disc message. I've searched for info on changing the laser as you suggested and have found some pretty good directions. None specific to the Shanling though. I imagine installing a new laser is pretty much the same for all players using this VAM 1201 or 1202. I will order it tomorrow.
I've been having a hard time locating the VAM1202 cd mechanism for a decent price. Donberg Electronics, Donegal, has it for 30 euro + 20 euro shipping. This adds up to about 67$$$. Which is not much to pay if it cures the Shanling of the No Disc Blues. Yet it doesn't seem to be as readily available as led to believe. I've found that most discount sellers are not interested in selling one unit and are looking to sell wholesale lots.
Dalbani is showing the VAM1202 in stock at $12.80 each. You know, if I had bought an expensive "high end" cd player/transport, and found out it used a $13 transport mech, I'd be darn well pissed off. I don't know how any of you guys can stomach this CDM12-series garbage. Anyway, the VAM1202 link:
http://www.dalbani.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L9C349D764250535C707FA3J+M36+ENG
http://www.dalbani.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L9C349D764250535C707FA3J+M36+ENG
Photo 10 & 15 - notice top center Ground trace near U13 appears melted and open. Solder thin wire carefully. Do this before attempting lazer replacement. Also ground the ground prong on the power plug to prevent static electricity before, while soldering and reassembling. the circuit boards.
As a safety measure the first time starting up the CD player place a 120 volt in series with the power cord. Use a Low watt 25 or 40 light bulb to protect the CD player from shorted components that might have caused the circuit board trace to over heat originally.
Let us know how you made out and good luck Phil.
As a safety measure the first time starting up the CD player place a 120 volt in series with the power cord. Use a Low watt 25 or 40 light bulb to protect the CD player from shorted components that might have caused the circuit board trace to over heat originally.
Let us know how you made out and good luck Phil.
Here's an update as how things stand at this point. I tested out that ground line that looked like it might have opened up. It was still continuous. Somehow it looks a little more funky in the photo than it actally is. I'm waiting for two VAM1202 mechanisms that I bought from Dalbani. These should arrive tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Thanks Martin! The links you posted for changing the mechanism were a big help. Also another good link for anyone else trying this; How To Replace Laser Assembly
Excellent 
Glad you got it working again Phil! Great stuff and you didn't have to pay a ridiculous repair bill. I got a similar kick when I replaced a laser in a Naim CDI after being told by Naim it would cost £450+ to get the mechanism replaced.... I did it for £15!!!
Now to get working on those op-amps
- John
Glad you got it working again Phil! Great stuff and you didn't have to pay a ridiculous repair bill. I got a similar kick when I replaced a laser in a Naim CDI after being told by Naim it would cost £450+ to get the mechanism replaced.... I did it for £15!!!Now to get working on those op-amps
- John
deja vu all over again
Here's a sad update to the Shanling nightmare. The fix of replacing the cd mechanism wasn't long lived. It was working fine for awhile. Then the cd wouldn't spin without a little push and now even with a push it won't spin up. I just connected a 1.5 volt battery to the spindle motor of the original mechanism that I removed and it rotated at what looks to be a pretty decent and constant speed. I wonder if the problem can be in the logic circuit. Anyway I'm running out of patience and am thinking I may see if Shanling will repair it. Awhile back I mentioned the cd-t80 to USA Shanling distributor Music Hall Audio and they said they never heard of this model. Don't know if they will help with getting it repaired.
Here's a sad update to the Shanling nightmare. The fix of replacing the cd mechanism wasn't long lived. It was working fine for awhile. Then the cd wouldn't spin without a little push and now even with a push it won't spin up. I just connected a 1.5 volt battery to the spindle motor of the original mechanism that I removed and it rotated at what looks to be a pretty decent and constant speed. I wonder if the problem can be in the logic circuit. Anyway I'm running out of patience and am thinking I may see if Shanling will repair it. Awhile back I mentioned the cd-t80 to USA Shanling distributor Music Hall Audio and they said they never heard of this model. Don't know if they will help with getting it repaired.
Hi Phil, Sorry to hear of your problems.
I'm suspicious of these CDM/VAM units. I've just installed one in my player (cambridge CD4se) and it now jumps to any track without a fuss but ......... every now and then the music slows down and distorts like a bad drum n' bass record. Interesting effect but annoying and frustrating!!!
My point here is that I supspect that these Philips VAM's may well suffer from dodgy spindle motors. My experiences so far seem to point in that direction. I've just salvaged another spindle motor from an old player and so I'll see what happens when I swap it.
Don't give up hope just yet but I wouldn't blame you for running out of patience.
Best regards,
Martin.
I'm suspicious of these CDM/VAM units. I've just installed one in my player (cambridge CD4se) and it now jumps to any track without a fuss but ......... every now and then the music slows down and distorts like a bad drum n' bass record. Interesting effect but annoying and frustrating!!!
My point here is that I supspect that these Philips VAM's may well suffer from dodgy spindle motors. My experiences so far seem to point in that direction. I've just salvaged another spindle motor from an old player and so I'll see what happens when I swap it.
Don't give up hope just yet but I wouldn't blame you for running out of patience.
Best regards,
Martin.
Thanks Martin! Yes these cdm's are very flimsy. Another thing I find odd about them is the pricing. I bought my replacement VAM1202 from Dalbani for $12. I've seen them listed elsewhere for $60. Happy that I only paid 12 and just wondering if there is any difference in quality. My guess is that they're the same. Good luck with your cdm problem. Is there a spin doctor in the house???
Yeah I've bought three of these from Dalbani (UK) and some others elesewhere. They all looked identical except that only one had an official philips box and sticker on the actual transport.
The one that I have recently replaced was temperemental from the start!!!
I'll let you know how I get on.
The one that I have recently replaced was temperemental from the start!!!
I'll let you know how I get on.
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