These binding posts are of gold plated solid brass, ~ 2.8 cm long and the 2nd best sounding binding posts I´ve ever heard (the best binding posts are no binding posts). They are for standard banana plugs.
The only source I know where you can buy them is the German DIY magazine "Hobby Hifi". They are most-bang-for-the-buck candidates: € 2.50 each! And much better than all that expensive WBT stuff if you ask me...
The advantage is that they are very small, very easy to install and due to their small size with no separate mounting plates etc. you don´t get eddy current (Foucault current).
Best regards,
Carsten
The only source I know where you can buy them is the German DIY magazine "Hobby Hifi". They are most-bang-for-the-buck candidates: € 2.50 each! And much better than all that expensive WBT stuff if you ask me...
The advantage is that they are very small, very easy to install and due to their small size with no separate mounting plates etc. you don´t get eddy current (Foucault current).
Best regards,
Carsten
Like the colour and the woodturning. Now you only need to work on the "rustic country house style" for the rest of the room. ;-)
Why no stuffing in the speaker? Even though the triangle shape will kill some mids and highs on its own, I'd think at least light stuffing would still be beneficiary.
These would be killer for cornerloading...
Why no stuffing in the speaker? Even though the triangle shape will kill some mids and highs on its own, I'd think at least light stuffing would still be beneficiary.
These would be killer for cornerloading...
By using more stuffing than shown on the picture in one of my previous posts the speaker sounds dead
, overdamped and furthermore you loose the high efficiency of nominal ~93 dB. I have tried several loads of damping, several materials and several positions.
To me/for my ears the best result was given by fixing just two small pieces "Bondum800" directly opposite to the back of the driver.
, overdamped and furthermore you loose the high efficiency of nominal ~93 dB. I have tried several loads of damping, several materials and several positions.To me/for my ears the best result was given by fixing just two small pieces "Bondum800" directly opposite to the back of the driver.
FR , the way is right !
my suggestion is to try the openbaffle , a lot better placement of voice , like is there ,dipole emission is like surround....
I have a supravox 215 S BIC in OB 65cmx110cm very similar
Hello, I think what you suggest sounds the best way. What about xover ? I have placed mine temporarily in some kitchen draws, not made me overly popular at home
I am running them with a big sub in the corner of the room for the moment to help with the bass. I would be interest to hear of any one else's experiments with OB single drive units without crossovers !
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I have, but today I use two Peerless SLS12 per side because of lack of bass on single FA22RCZ driver.
First I used Eminence Alpha 15A bass driver with "Ufo-OB" baffle, but I replaced them soon with SLS.
Friend of mine also take some measurements from Seas FA22RCZ in Ufo-OB's.
Ufo-OB:
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Seas FA22RCZ from 80cm.
Red 0-deg
Green 15-deg
Blue 180-deg
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Pictures from today's setup:
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Br, Joni
Yes, there was only one 15" Alpha per side. I think that Alpha's problem is not sound pressure, quality of sound is more better in SLS. That was reason for the change..
Sorry, but there is crossover also in my system. I drive them active, I use MiniDsp for crossover, balance and equ.
Br, Joni
Hello, I think what you suggest sounds the best way. What about xover ? I have placed mine temporarily in some kitchen draws, not made me overly popular at home
That looks really pragmatic... great idea!
Would you allow me to copy and paste/use these both pics for a post in my blog? I just wanna show them to my German readers...
Thanks in advance,
Carsten
Hi Joni, Do you think I can use these 10" woofers I bought recently for a project that never got off the ground ? I have two of them, so one on each channel. They would certainly help the FA22RCZ go lower to meet the sub ?
See Pano's graph for the sweep.
thanks
SB29NRX75-6 - SB acoustics 10 inch woofer - Europe Audio
You can use them for OB, but they will never be anywhere near as loud as the Seas FR. You'd really need to drive them with a separate amplifier - and that's no fun.
You can stand to attenuate the Seas 8" some, but you don't want to attenuate it too much. So finding a bass or mid-bass to match is not going to be easy.
On another note:
I'm surprised that no one has commented on the FR plot I posted of the driver in the drawer. It's really much better than the factory plot. Why is it so much better? I know, but want to see if any one else can figure it out. (Hint: There is no EQ or crossover)
You can stand to attenuate the Seas 8" some, but you don't want to attenuate it too much. So finding a bass or mid-bass to match is not going to be easy.
On another note:
I'm surprised that no one has commented on the FR plot I posted of the driver in the drawer. It's really much better than the factory plot. Why is it so much better? I know, but want to see if any one else can figure it out. (Hint: There is no EQ or crossover)
OK, I'll "Spill the Beans"
The reason the measurements that Marcus took in his lounge look so much better than the factory graphs is - Application.
The factory FR shows a big high end rise that is typical of many FR drivers. But the measurements we showed were done at the listening position, and Open Baffle. Seas probably did their measurements on a big standard baffle, too - but they show only the front radiation at 1 meter from the driver.
Once you get back into the room a bit and start getting sound off the front and the back of the driver, things start to balance out. There isn't as much HF getting to you off the back, so the balance starts to tip away from the rising HF. Or in other words, the sound off the back of the driver fills in the mids to come up to the level of the highs. In this case, almost perfectly filling in.
As you might guess, this would not work in a box speaker because the rear radiation is (almost) completely contained in the box. You don't get the blend off the back of the driver.
My friend John Busch has also been working with this driver and has found the same thing. It does not need a series inductor to tame the top end when used open baffle. John found this out by listening to it, then the measurements in London confirmed it. It's a great driver.
The reason the measurements that Marcus took in his lounge look so much better than the factory graphs is - Application.
The factory FR shows a big high end rise that is typical of many FR drivers. But the measurements we showed were done at the listening position, and Open Baffle. Seas probably did their measurements on a big standard baffle, too - but they show only the front radiation at 1 meter from the driver.
Once you get back into the room a bit and start getting sound off the front and the back of the driver, things start to balance out. There isn't as much HF getting to you off the back, so the balance starts to tip away from the rising HF. Or in other words, the sound off the back of the driver fills in the mids to come up to the level of the highs. In this case, almost perfectly filling in.
As you might guess, this would not work in a box speaker because the rear radiation is (almost) completely contained in the box. You don't get the blend off the back of the driver.
My friend John Busch has also been working with this driver and has found the same thing. It does not need a series inductor to tame the top end when used open baffle. John found this out by listening to it, then the measurements in London confirmed it. It's a great driver.