Which part of your switch did break exactly? I'd suggest that you consider repairing the switch, because getting replacement might be quite difficult as these switches look handcrafted to me.
Mine tester had a broken 'push to test' switch as well, but I was able to repair it using two new m3 screws. The old screws were rusty and actually lost their heads in shipping...
hth
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They certainly are a one-off item.
It is a specially built leaf switch with multiple make/break combinations.
The central actuator completely disintegrated, I'm pretty sure the switch is not repairable, and a replacement from anything other than another L3-3 would simply not exist.
I was considering making up a replacement using a standard push switch and multiple relays, but have not been able to find a clear version of the wiring diagram.
It is a specially built leaf switch with multiple make/break combinations.
The central actuator completely disintegrated, I'm pretty sure the switch is not repairable, and a replacement from anything other than another L3-3 would simply not exist.
I was considering making up a replacement using a standard push switch and multiple relays, but have not been able to find a clear version of the wiring diagram.
Did you try to borrow the required parts from the "mains" pushbutton? As far as I can remember the actuator itself isnt that complicated and it should be possible to fabricate spare parts on a lathe. The tester was built in a shed and thus I don't see a reason why you shouldn't succeed repairing it in one.
Hello,
it's me again, I'm still working on my L3-3 and it is starting to drive me crazy.
I did find some more damage, resistor R118 was burnt and I've replaced it with a new one. I'm not sure if this is linked to the my problems with the µA-meter, because I suppose that this damage was caused by abuse from previous owners or by leaky paper caps. It could be an explanation why it was diffucult to get an reliable transconductance reading though.
In any case, I went through all voltage tests in the instruction manual and everything seems fine. So far I didn't go through the "under load" tests as I don't have appropriate load resistors yet, but I'm guessing that the tester will work fine except maybe at full current and high voltages.
However there is one exception, if I make the connection I/1 I can get the -ug1 meter only to about to -60v when the isolation switch is set to parameter. My voltmeter was connected between 43/I and ground and I got the same readings. Setting the parameter switch to any other position gives me about -80v when the -65v pot is turned fully clockwise.
Is this normal for this tester or could this be a hint that something more is wrong?
alex5612
it's me again, I'm still working on my L3-3 and it is starting to drive me crazy.
I did find some more damage, resistor R118 was burnt and I've replaced it with a new one. I'm not sure if this is linked to the my problems with the µA-meter, because I suppose that this damage was caused by abuse from previous owners or by leaky paper caps. It could be an explanation why it was diffucult to get an reliable transconductance reading though.
In any case, I went through all voltage tests in the instruction manual and everything seems fine. So far I didn't go through the "under load" tests as I don't have appropriate load resistors yet, but I'm guessing that the tester will work fine except maybe at full current and high voltages.
However there is one exception, if I make the connection I/1 I can get the -ug1 meter only to about to -60v when the isolation switch is set to parameter. My voltmeter was connected between 43/I and ground and I got the same readings. Setting the parameter switch to any other position gives me about -80v when the -65v pot is turned fully clockwise.
Is this normal for this tester or could this be a hint that something more is wrong?
alex5612
Hello everybody! A lot of perforated cards (not only for Russian tubes) can be found there (the website is in Russian language): ????? ??? ?????????? ?????????? ???? ?3-3 - ???????? ??????? - ????? ?? ????????????????
Hello and thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread. I've recently purchase 2 of the L3-3 and was wondering if anyone has developed a card for the 5687 or E182CC. Also, I have cards for many of the popular audio tubes including 300B, so if you are interested please contact me and i will see if i have a card. Thanks
Links not working?
I tried to access the instruction manual at http://technoantique.narod.ru/lab/L3/L_3/instruction.htm, the texts are ok, but all the linked graphics/picture files are not available (404 no file), is it just my browser? If not, could someone please send me the linked graphic files if you have them stored on your computer?
TIA,
Jaz
I tried to access the instruction manual at http://technoantique.narod.ru/lab/L3/L_3/instruction.htm, the texts are ok, but all the linked graphics/picture files are not available (404 no file)
, is it just my browser? If not, could someone please send me the linked graphic files if you have them stored on your computer?TIA,
Jaz
Hi guys, I got this wonderful tester just the other week.
My first impressions is that it is a cool piece of industrial design, and it seems to work well, but it's a little bit more work to use it than for example an Avo tester, due to the pin-card work and the constant pushing of the test button.
I was able to print some cards that I downloaded in .spl format off a russian webpage linked to in page 10, using the russian language spl application.
The manual I have is in German, I do speak some German, so I have been able to try the tester. However I have a couple of questions.
One is how do you safely change tubes? Do you have to pull out a number of pins, or is there a setting where it will "stand by" while you change tubes?
Second, does anyone have a test card for 1625?
My first impressions is that it is a cool piece of industrial design, and it seems to work well, but it's a little bit more work to use it than for example an Avo tester, due to the pin-card work and the constant pushing of the test button.
I was able to print some cards that I downloaded in .spl format off a russian webpage linked to in page 10, using the russian language spl application.
The manual I have is in German, I do speak some German, so I have been able to try the tester. However I have a couple of questions.
One is how do you safely change tubes? Do you have to pull out a number of pins, or is there a setting where it will "stand by" while you change tubes?
Second, does anyone have a test card for 1625?
Hi
Hoping someone can help me to open up my tester.
I have a L1-3 tester which has been modified by replacing the large vaiable resistor by the L3-3 type at some time in the past. So far I have had no problems with it.
Earlier this evening, I was going through the preliminary checks prior to testing a valve I found that the -10V of VG1 does not work although the -65 is fine. I removed the tester from its case and with some difficulty, checked R91 the 4k7 pot. It looks OK.
Then I tried to open up the chassis to test R90, the 51K resistor & check the wiring. I removed the 2 screws on the panel but the chassis will only swing out a few mm. I didn't pull very hard to avoid breaking something. Is there anything else to disconnect?
Regards
Jeff
Hoping someone can help me to open up my tester.
I have a L1-3 tester which has been modified by replacing the large vaiable resistor by the L3-3 type at some time in the past. So far I have had no problems with it.
Earlier this evening, I was going through the preliminary checks prior to testing a valve I found that the -10V of VG1 does not work although the -65 is fine. I removed the tester from its case and with some difficulty, checked R91 the 4k7 pot. It looks OK.
Then I tried to open up the chassis to test R90, the 51K resistor & check the wiring. I removed the 2 screws on the panel but the chassis will only swing out a few mm. I didn't pull very hard to avoid breaking something. Is there anything else to disconnect?
Regards
Jeff
Thanks for the info, it has been a great help to me.
I found the top two screws easily, but couldn't find any more, I just didn't expect there to be any screws in the hinge area, so didn't look there.Your tip, made me look for them & it enabled me to open the tester up.
I didn't find what I expected. The 51k resistor measures 51K and the pot measures 5k1 and looks OK. There is a max of 18V available at the pot slider which is as expected which corresponds to around 30 on the meter with a pin in I/2.
I was following the instructions which said to check if the -10 pot could set Vg1 to 10 on the scale as a check for the -10V Vg1. (As I found out this corresponds to around 6V.) That is pretty near to zero on the scale & I thought it was a misprint & should have been set to 100 so the grid potential could be set accurately. It looks like my idea is wrong & that there is nothing wrong with my tester. I am relieved at that. On reflection, it may be a consequence of having a common scale with the
-65V.
I think I have read the someone had replaced this pot with a 10-turn one to set the volts more accurately, is that a worthwhile mod with the existinf meter scale?
Many thanks
Jeff
I found the top two screws easily, but couldn't find any more, I just didn't expect there to be any screws in the hinge area, so didn't look there.Your tip, made me look for them & it enabled me to open the tester up.
I didn't find what I expected. The 51k resistor measures 51K and the pot measures 5k1 and looks OK. There is a max of 18V available at the pot slider which is as expected which corresponds to around 30 on the meter with a pin in I/2.
I was following the instructions which said to check if the -10 pot could set Vg1 to 10 on the scale as a check for the -10V Vg1. (As I found out this corresponds to around 6V.) That is pretty near to zero on the scale & I thought it was a misprint & should have been set to 100 so the grid potential could be set accurately. It looks like my idea is wrong & that there is nothing wrong with my tester. I am relieved at that. On reflection, it may be a consequence of having a common scale with the
-65V.
I think I have read the someone had replaced this pot with a 10-turn one to set the volts more accurately, is that a worthwhile mod with the existinf meter scale?
Many thanks
Jeff
Looking for Alpha/Beta testers ..
Hello,
since I almost damaged my friends(alex5612) L3-3 last year by trying to create a test card myself (and doing it wrong) we decided that I should design a software which creates test cards from entered tube data. Now I'm looking for some people, who will help me by alpha/beta-testing the software.
AT FIRST A WARNING: The software is in very alpha state and there are almost definitely some serious bugs in it, which may even lead to damage of your tester. I strongly advise against using the created cards without a careful manual check.
It's released as open source (Although I don't recommend looking in the source right now, it's an unstructured, undocumented mess and I will clean it the next days). Just download the zip file right here:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/l33testcardgene/
Just extract the *.zip into a single folder, it should run. Maybe you will need the VS2010 C++ Redistributable (x86), which is available at Microsoft for free:
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5555
At the moment, it's in German language only. But I hope you will get around with it. internationalization is on of the next tasks to do.
If you have an sourceforge account, please use the ticket system for error reports.
Many thanks,
Christian
Hello,
since I almost damaged my friends(alex5612) L3-3 last year by trying to create a test card myself (and doing it wrong) we decided that I should design a software which creates test cards from entered tube data. Now I'm looking for some people, who will help me by alpha/beta-testing the software.
AT FIRST A WARNING: The software is in very alpha state and there are almost definitely some serious bugs in it, which may even lead to damage of your tester. I strongly advise against using the created cards without a careful manual check.
It's released as open source (Although I don't recommend looking in the source right now, it's an unstructured, undocumented mess and I will clean it the next days). Just download the zip file right here:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/l33testcardgene/
Just extract the *.zip into a single folder, it should run. Maybe you will need the VS2010 C++ Redistributable (x86), which is available at Microsoft for free:
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5555
At the moment, it's in German language only. But I hope you will get around with it. internationalization is on of the next tasks to do.
If you have an sourceforge account, please use the ticket system for error reports.
Many thanks,
Christian
Hi Christian, I tried your app right now.
The save function didn't work, it just saved a blank image with nothing on it.
Printing worked fine!
I've not yet tried the card I made on it because I haven't evaluated it if it is safe to use yet
If you need help translating let me know.
This is a great effort!
The save function didn't work, it just saved a blank image with nothing on it.
Printing worked fine!
I've not yet tried the card I made on it because I haven't evaluated it if it is safe to use yet
If you need help translating let me know.
This is a great effort!
Thanks for your report, I was able to reproduce that .. strangely it was working when I implemented it and I didn't touch the code since then. I will have a look at that for the next version.
I already have someone for English and Polish localizations, more languages are welcome. It's actually very easy to do, you just have to add translations for all marked texts via QtLinguist. At least the English version should be in the next alpha release.
I already have someone for English and Polish localizations, more languages are welcome. It's actually very easy to do, you just have to add translations for all marked texts via QtLinguist. At least the English version should be in the next alpha release.
New snapshot
A new alpha version will be released after internationalization.
But I found some serious mistakes in the socket configuration, which I tried to correct while revising the sockets completely and adding the "Adapterbox" from Arthur Rudolph (L1-3 Adapterbox) to the available options. The idea of choosing the right noval or octal socket automatically is rejected for now.
For this reason, I released an (almost untested (!!)) snapshot just now. If someone knows the L3-3 really good, he should test for correct socket connections.
Also I added a tube type "Anzeigeröhren" meaning indicator valves (magic eyes). Since the L3-3 doesn't support the "correct" circuit which uses the internal triode as an amplifier, its configured for driving the control electrodes of the viewing system directly using the G2 power supply. Do you like that feature?
The next step definitely will be translation
A new alpha version will be released after internationalization.
But I found some serious mistakes in the socket configuration, which I tried to correct while revising the sockets completely and adding the "Adapterbox" from Arthur Rudolph (L1-3 Adapterbox) to the available options. The idea of choosing the right noval or octal socket automatically is rejected for now.
For this reason, I released an (almost untested (!!)) snapshot just now. If someone knows the L3-3 really good, he should test for correct socket connections.
Also I added a tube type "Anzeigeröhren" meaning indicator valves (magic eyes). Since the L3-3 doesn't support the "correct" circuit which uses the internal triode as an amplifier, its configured for driving the control electrodes of the viewing system directly using the G2 power supply. Do you like that feature?
The next step definitely will be translation