Thats fine I wont be ordering them till wednesday, dont worry about paying me in advance. Just wait till I get them then I will PM you for your address and we can work out the details from there. Perry might have some that he would sell you, but I am not sure.
That driver being defective will definantely give you some odd readings, I know it did me. On a BD10001 that Perry helped me with while back it was causing the output to be very distorted and weak. Only 1 was bad though the other was fine.
That driver being defective will definantely give you some odd readings, I know it did me. On a BD10001 that Perry helped me with while back it was causing the output to be very distorted and weak. Only 1 was bad though the other was fine.
allright for the components... just let me know so we can complete this
you or Perry wich ever wants to sell me some i dont mind it would be great
yeah it is definitely what it is .. the output is weak and unclear... not precise and lacks power... i didnt see the output on a scope but from trying it in the car it sounded exactly like this in the speakers
another thing i learned is that i should have checked the output with a scope or something before trying it in the car... i dont think it did any bad... but it could have turned out bad and blow something else... so next time i will confirm before trying in the car
you or Perry wich ever wants to sell me some i dont mind it would be great
yeah it is definitely what it is .. the output is weak and unclear... not precise and lacks power... i didnt see the output on a scope but from trying it in the car it sounded exactly like this in the speakers
another thing i learned is that i should have checked the output with a scope or something before trying it in the car... i dont think it did any bad... but it could have turned out bad and blow something else... so next time i will confirm before trying in the car
You could get yourself some current limiting resistors for testing purposes. I think Perry mentioned in another post that radio shack sells 25 watt 8 ohm resistors. You could do like 4 of them in parallel. It would probably allow enough current to power on and do testing but not enough for strong output. It would also save you from potential damage to components.
allright so i will order 4 6215 and 4 3415 and 2 mic4420 to have one spare...
Sean already quoted me on a price shipped to me he has all of them in stock...
does the 3415 and 6215 needs to be exactly the same as the right side ? cause i ordered IRF3415PBF and IRF6215PBF and i dont know if the one he has are PBF's
what i am asking is does the whole top row 3415's and 6215's needs to be the same ? or can they be slightly different as long as each's respective sides as the 4 same FEts
Sean already quoted me on a price shipped to me he has all of them in stock...
does the 3415 and 6215 needs to be exactly the same as the right side ? cause i ordered IRF3415PBF and IRF6215PBF and i dont know if the one he has are PBF's
what i am asking is does the whole top row 3415's and 6215's needs to be the same ? or can they be slightly different as long as each's respective sides as the 4 same FEts
You could check the input voltage to the driver IC to confirm that it's switching when the protect LED switches off. If you're going to try this, connect a resistor (value not critical, 100 ohms - 10k ohms should be OK) between the gate and the source legs of one of the output FETs in the group of FETs that failed. If you don't do this, the rest of the FETs will likely fail.
You can check this on pin 7 of the opto-coupler (U15) or on pin 1 of the driver IC (or on both).
Before you connect the resistor, confirm that you read in the M-ohm range between the gate and the other legs of the outputs in the group that failed.
You can check this on pin 7 of the opto-coupler (U15) or on pin 1 of the driver IC (or on both).
Before you connect the resistor, confirm that you read in the M-ohm range between the gate and the other legs of the outputs in the group that failed.
allright
of course what was i thinking lol...
anyways they are in parallel so it doesnt really matter to remove the defective FETs and those 2 circuits are not even related
i will measure that right now
does the wattage of the resistor matter?
i have all the choices i want ... wich way would be better lower or higher ohm value to protect better? lower i guess??
of course what was i thinking lol...
anyways they are in parallel so it doesnt really matter to remove the defective FETs and those 2 circuits are not even related
i will measure that right now
does the wattage of the resistor matter?
i have all the choices i want ... wich way would be better lower or higher ohm value to protect better? lower i guess??
yes
what i was trying to ask is could i use the working U10 output (pin 5) to make the left side FETs working and see if they receive -9V/+9V but looking at the diagram it was a dumb question... of course they will receive the voltage since U10 is working...
forget the question it was stupid to ask...
ill do what you asked and let you know the results
when verifying U15's output/U6's input pin on the board... where should i put my neg probe? the neg terminal would be correct?
what i was trying to ask is could i use the working U10 output (pin 5) to make the left side FETs working and see if they receive -9V/+9V but looking at the diagram it was a dumb question... of course they will receive the voltage since U10 is working...
forget the question it was stupid to ask...
ill do what you asked and let you know the results
when verifying U15's output/U6's input pin on the board... where should i put my neg probe? the neg terminal would be correct?
for the resistance test i did it and i get nothing on my DMM set on 2megaohms i have nothing higher... the only one i had something were the 4 3415 (the batch with the failed Q106 between leg 1-2 and i was reading 50 ohms... as soon as i cutout Q106 of the board i measured nothing between the legs of all the remainings 3415..
looking good... why cant i measure in the megaohms range like you do ? is my dmm not reading high enough ??
even with another DMM reading up to 20Mohm i read nothing... (open circuit)
looking good... why cant i measure in the megaohms range like you do ? is my dmm not reading high enough ??
even with another DMM reading up to 20Mohm i read nothing... (open circuit)
for U15 output/U6 input... i read -9 -10V on both of them when the protect led is ON and stays at -9V when the protect led is off....
and on the working U10 on pin 1 the input i get -10v all the time also... and then after about 5 seconds the whinning in the tansfos changes sound and the voltage goes to about -7.8V...
i tried them about 10 times each and for the failed U6 that is not there i get all the time the same steady -9.6V voltage without with rarely a whine from the transfo...
and when i do U10 i almost all of the time get that winning and the voltage drops out to about -5.5V to -8V when the whinning is present... if i remove the DMM probe the whinning goes away and as soon as i put it back the whinning comes back...
it reads -5.5 -6v ... tried it like 10 times in a row and the whinng goes away as soon as i remove the DMM probe and comes back as soon as i touch the pin1 on U10... is the DMM interfering with something ?
and isnt it supposed to go from -9V with the protected led on to +9V with the protected LED off ?? as we tested earlier... or maybe its MIC4420ct's job to reverse the polarity ...
if i remeasure at the WORKING right FETs on the gate leg of any FETs... i get -11V when protect LED on... then when it goes off i read a fast +13V and then it goes to about +6.7V steady... what the hell is this.. is it normal cause there is a component missing ?? we were previously testing a nice 9.6v on those FET's gates...
i am testing with a battery that was fully charged without any charger on it and now the battery voltage is at 11.75V
thats everything i noticed...
and on the working U10 on pin 1 the input i get -10v all the time also... and then after about 5 seconds the whinning in the tansfos changes sound and the voltage goes to about -7.8V...
i tried them about 10 times each and for the failed U6 that is not there i get all the time the same steady -9.6V voltage without with rarely a whine from the transfo...
and when i do U10 i almost all of the time get that winning and the voltage drops out to about -5.5V to -8V when the whinning is present... if i remove the DMM probe the whinning goes away and as soon as i put it back the whinning comes back...
it reads -5.5 -6v ... tried it like 10 times in a row and the whinng goes away as soon as i remove the DMM probe and comes back as soon as i touch the pin1 on U10... is the DMM interfering with something ?
and isnt it supposed to go from -9V with the protected led on to +9V with the protected LED off ?? as we tested earlier... or maybe its MIC4420ct's job to reverse the polarity ...
if i remeasure at the WORKING right FETs on the gate leg of any FETs... i get -11V when protect LED on... then when it goes off i read a fast +13V and then it goes to about +6.7V steady... what the hell is this.. is it normal cause there is a component missing ?? we were previously testing a nice 9.6v on those FET's gates...
i am testing with a battery that was fully charged without any charger on it and now the battery voltage is at 11.75V
thats everything i noticed...
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