rockford fosgate BD1500 stopped working

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Read what I posted very carefully "in sreies 4 ohms both subs combined" to get 4 ohms both subs combined you need each sub wired in series at 8 ohms. "both subs combined" = 4 ohms. You can only go off of RMS power. You will "never" get that power from that amp and that power to those subs. In order to do so you have to have the gain cranked and the head unit at full volume. After the amp clips you gain nothing you lose and create heat and distortion. You can only go by "rms" power. I can "COOK" the voice coils in a HE2 RFP3212 with a Punch 500a2!!!
 
i dont think you understood what i said :)
re-read what i said
and i added some posts while you were typing
dont worry everything is ok all the calculations are ok
its just that i used PEAK watts instead of rms watts..
i explained it better in the other posts
each subs voice coils are wired in series to make 8ohm
each subs are 8 ohm so 2 of them together in parralel in the box makes 4ohm and 800wrms and the amp puts out 750wrms at 4ohm...
read the other posts i made
i shouldnt have used peak powers specs.. but people are gay here and uses peak ratings to be nice and cool with bigger numbers... so i am used to talking double the RMS rating to match the way they "talk" lol
 
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i dont think you understood what i said :)
re-read what i said
and i added come posts while you were typing
dont worry everything is ok all the calculations are ok
its just that i used PEAK watts instead of rms watts..
i explained it better in the other posts
each subs voice coils are wired in series to make 8ohm
each subs are 8 ohm so 2 of them together in parralel in the box makes 4ohm and 800wrms and the amp puts out 750wrms at 4ohm...
read the other posts i made
i shouldnt have used peak powers specs.. but people are gay here and uses peak ratings to be nice and cool with bigger numbers... so i am used to talking double the RMS rating to match the way they "talk" lol

Yes we are saying the same thing just explaining it differently.

"GAY" thats funny..............LOL
 
yeah thats exactly what i was noticing... its just that its hard to explain it here.. in real life you would have seen the box with the 2 speakers and we would had understood right from the beginning...
I dont have anything against gay people. i dont care its their life... its just an expression here.. that **** is gay... or that **** is fag... but no offence to them.. simply an expression LOL
allright so i am so happy to try this thing tomorrow that i think i will go to sleep right now to wake up earlier tomorrow.. its off for me so i will try if first thing in the morning and let you know if i cracked open my windows LOL just kidding
good night Sean and Perry
see you tomorrow
 
amp is producing nice audio
i tried it at 25% at first then at 50% .. there was a little blimp of smoke coming out of it.. really light line of smoke that lasted maybe 5-10 seconds ... could it be the compound cooking or something like that?? maybe the grease that got a bit here and there when i manipulated the amp... I removed the case and looked at everything and nothing seems busted... and retried the amp at about 50-70% gradually for 5 minutes and no smoke came back... and the transfo on the right (the one that also supply's power to the other sections of the amp) was getting hot compared to the other left toroid... is this normal ? ALL of the FETs are almost cold... the only thing hot is the right toroid... and some of the transistors with the little purple heatsinks on them like the MIC4420ct's..
here are the temperatures measured with a laser heat gun
it would be nice if one of you had some notes on the running temps to compare to be shure everything is ok!!!

ambiant temperature is about 85F
output and power FETs are all 93F
Q13 and Q14 are at 135F
Q15 and Q16 are at 140F
gate drivers are at 120F
left toroid 110-115F
right toroid 140-150F (really warmer then the other one... but is stable at that temp)

what do you think about those temps ?
 
yes its the one with the broken strand that i had repaired... then cut it out since i found that the toroid was hot.. but it was probably not the strand ... cause now its still hot...
but this toroid is also the one that powers the control section of the amp so i dont know it this can make it more hot...
 
I can do it later. It is normal for the toroids to get warm, there is a fine line between warm and hot. Anything over body temperature is gonna feel hot to the touch. Toroids do get warm and may feel hot but the temp you posted does not seem hot to me. Maybe Perry can let you know what he thinks. I would run the amp hard and then take measurements.
 
yes
its not HOT its probably normal for a toroid.. the thing that worries me is why the other is that cool compared to the other one... i dont think the additional windings for the control circuits can make it that hot.. or maybe its not the LOAD of the additional circuits but the additional PHYSICAL space that leaves less place for heat dissipation... thats why i think Perry's input on this will be appreciated

take your time on the measurements... do it if you have a spare time and you are curious!!!

I will run it hard tomorrow and see how hot it gets but i dont think it will get much more hotter.. cause from 25% to 70% load it was always the same temp ...

I dont know if its because i have been missing the amp for more than a month but it feels like its punching harder than before... I had to lower the gain a little cause it seemed more loud at a lower HU volume than before...
but i think its a illusion since i did not hear it for a while lol...

kind of like when i pull my summer car with close to 700ponies from winter storage.. it pulls damn hardddd ... seems way more than when i stored it 4 months earlier.. but its definitely an illusion since nothing have been done to it when at storage... unless some little aliens worked on the turbo in secret LOL
I think its only a question of being used to it everyday !!!
 
I have one of these. And I really need some help.

can the transformers be replaced off the shelf somwhere or do I need to rebuild them? One of mine seems to have actually been on fire before.

I think it shorted out on the back plat and bunt up. I really can't tell what happened to this thing 3 of the fets exploded and some one removed the rca jacks back plat and one of the
Potentiometers the shorter one idk if it was gain or crossover.

I figured I'd rebuild it just to learn how to do it.
 
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