Hi Arne,
You should be able to see more than one IS1 board. I have some suggestions for your to try.
1) Take two IS1 boards (channels 1-8), not all four.
2) On both boards, put a 2-10K resistor where the numbers 1, 2, and 3 are on the address.
Put the other side of the resistor to 5V.
Now, on ONE board, jumper across to ADDR0.
Connect just the IR1 and these two boards,
See how many the IR1 identifies.
Dale
You should be able to see more than one IS1 board. I have some suggestions for your to try.
1) Take two IS1 boards (channels 1-8), not all four.
2) On both boards, put a 2-10K resistor where the numbers 1, 2, and 3 are on the address.
Put the other side of the resistor to 5V.
Now, on ONE board, jumper across to ADDR0.
Connect just the IR1 and these two boards,
See how many the IR1 identifies.
Dale
Hello Arne,
Don't worry, we will resolve this problem!
Even if we have to pay for you to send the boards back to us.
We paid for Tony's and Brian's boards to be sent back and I was able to fix them within a day of their arrival!
Now,
1) The early software had a problem controlling two IS1 boards. The problem was not in seeing them, but in navigating from input 4 to input 5. So, I did not expect there to be a fix, but at least I know what code you are running for sure. The first version that I sent (posted) had the volume board hard coded, so I sent you the proper code.
2) A resistor has two ends (as far as I know). I can simplify.
Take one 10K resistor and solder one end to JP1-2. Take another 10K resistor and solder one end to JP1-2.
Now solder the other ends of both resistors to +5V.
Do this on two boards.
Now, on one board only(that you modified)!, solder a jumper wire from JP1-2 to JP1-ADDR0.
Now attach both boards to the IR1 and power up. How many inputs boards?
If there are two shown, make sure that the maximum input is set to 8 using the encoders.
Please wait 30 seconds min and then cycle the power.
Now, power back on.
1) Are there still 2 IS1 boards found?
2) Do you get 8 inputs?
If yes to both, just !!! add one volume board to the system.
1) Do you see it?
2) Are the IS1 boards still there?
Dale
Don't worry, we will resolve this problem!
Even if we have to pay for you to send the boards back to us.
We paid for Tony's and Brian's boards to be sent back and I was able to fix them within a day of their arrival!
Now,
1) The early software had a problem controlling two IS1 boards. The problem was not in seeing them, but in navigating from input 4 to input 5. So, I did not expect there to be a fix, but at least I know what code you are running for sure. The first version that I sent (posted) had the volume board hard coded, so I sent you the proper code.
2) A resistor has two ends (as far as I know). I can simplify.
Take one 10K resistor and solder one end to JP1-2. Take another 10K resistor and solder one end to JP1-2.
Now solder the other ends of both resistors to +5V.
Do this on two boards.
Now, on one board only(that you modified)!, solder a jumper wire from JP1-2 to JP1-ADDR0.
Now attach both boards to the IR1 and power up. How many inputs boards?
If there are two shown, make sure that the maximum input is set to 8 using the encoders.
Please wait 30 seconds min and then cycle the power.
Now, power back on.
1) Are there still 2 IS1 boards found?
2) Do you get 8 inputs?
If yes to both, just !!! add one volume board to the system.
1) Do you see it?
2) Are the IS1 boards still there?
Dale
Hi Harvardian
I am about to build my aleph P1.7 (Kristian's boards) and was wandering which is the best APOX package that you can offer to go with at this time. I am considering of using both RCA and XLR.
As well is it possible to get Red LCD. ?
I think that this is the same LCD that you are using but red.
red LCD
And what would be the price???
Thank you
Trigon
I am about to build my aleph P1.7 (Kristian's boards) and was wandering which is the best APOX package that you can offer to go with at this time. I am considering of using both RCA and XLR.
As well is it possible to get Red LCD. ?
I think that this is the same LCD that you are using but red.
red LCD
And what would be the price???
Thank you
Trigon
Hi Trigon,
Actually, we have stock on
Red, green, white, and blue right now!
For the P1.7, I would recommend the SHM boards.
How many inputs do you have?
A typical system would be:
Qty 1 - IR1 - front panel, IR, encoders
Qty 2 - IS1 - gives 4 inputs SE, or BAL
Qty 2 - SHM - 255 level mono volume
or 2 APOX-2 boards
The APOX-2 give 24 levels, but offer constant impedence.
Price varies.
Try the link below
APOX
Actually, we have stock on
Red, green, white, and blue right now!
For the P1.7, I would recommend the SHM boards.
How many inputs do you have?
A typical system would be:
Qty 1 - IR1 - front panel, IR, encoders
Qty 2 - IS1 - gives 4 inputs SE, or BAL
Qty 2 - SHM - 255 level mono volume
or 2 APOX-2 boards
The APOX-2 give 24 levels, but offer constant impedence.
Price varies.
Try the link below
APOX
Comment
This thread is from time to time receiving quite a bit of noise from a few members who are having technical support issues.
The Apox Audio website has a separate area for support:
http://www.apoxcontrols.com/contact.htm?
May I suggest you post there and refrain from getting support from here - unless DIY Audio members helping members is what you require? You should expect Apox Audio guys to follow their own website more closely than this forum which they do not own.
You are of course entitled to post any opinions and experiences about Apox Audio etc. here.
My personal experience with Apox Audio and the two guys behind it is that they are very professional and nice guys. Since they both had to change jobs recently, there was likely a period of time where they were not quite on the ball. Activity on this thread indicates that they are very much on the ball and we should do them the service of refraining from posting stuff which potential customers can find negative unless we really have had bad experiences which are not our own fault.
Apox Audio makes high technology kits available to the masses. As anybody who has been in the electronics kit business know, there will be errors on both sides of the table. Dale and Craig are decent folks who will help you get your stuff working.
Thanks
Petter
This thread is from time to time receiving quite a bit of noise from a few members who are having technical support issues.
The Apox Audio website has a separate area for support:
http://www.apoxcontrols.com/contact.htm?
May I suggest you post there and refrain from getting support from here - unless DIY Audio members helping members is what you require? You should expect Apox Audio guys to follow their own website more closely than this forum which they do not own.
You are of course entitled to post any opinions and experiences about Apox Audio etc. here.
My personal experience with Apox Audio and the two guys behind it is that they are very professional and nice guys. Since they both had to change jobs recently, there was likely a period of time where they were not quite on the ball. Activity on this thread indicates that they are very much on the ball and we should do them the service of refraining from posting stuff which potential customers can find negative unless we really have had bad experiences which are not our own fault.
Apox Audio makes high technology kits available to the masses. As anybody who has been in the electronics kit business know, there will be errors on both sides of the table. Dale and Craig are decent folks who will help you get your stuff working.
Thanks
Petter
Petter,
That's a very good observation. Anybody who has any technical support issues should contact Apox guys directly and use forum only to share observations that can be useful to other members.
This thread was intended as a development aid and not troubleshooting support. Most of recent issues could be resolved in private e-mails.
That's a very good observation. Anybody who has any technical support issues should contact Apox guys directly and use forum only to share observations that can be useful to other members.
This thread was intended as a development aid and not troubleshooting support. Most of recent issues could be resolved in private e-mails.
Hi Brian,
Have you tried your system yet? Is everything working correctly?
Antonio, we did ship your new PIC. It should arrive shortly.
The system in UK (with two extra LCD's) shipped on Monday. We still need to get the resistors. They will ship shortly.
Tony (Doh), did you solve the tuner issue?
Best Regards,
Dale
Have you tried your system yet? Is everything working correctly?
Antonio, we did ship your new PIC. It should arrive shortly.
The system in UK (with two extra LCD's) shipped on Monday. We still need to get the resistors. They will ship shortly.
Tony (Doh), did you solve the tuner issue?
Best Regards,
Dale
I am looking into makig a nice apox based preamp but i have few questions first.
1 - how would i go about getting more than one set of outputs from it ? as I have 2 amps hanging off my current preamp ( headphone and power amp )
2 - would there be any problem with having the actual preamp stage outside of the selector/volume cabinet ? ie connect via a short interconnect ? ( would all me to upgrade the preamp stage later )
3 - is there a possibilty of a USB module for this ? as my new PC has no serial ports . I have another machine that has serial but would rather connect it to my main machine.
Cheers
1 - how would i go about getting more than one set of outputs from it ? as I have 2 amps hanging off my current preamp ( headphone and power amp )
2 - would there be any problem with having the actual preamp stage outside of the selector/volume cabinet ? ie connect via a short interconnect ? ( would all me to upgrade the preamp stage later )
3 - is there a possibilty of a USB module for this ? as my new PC has no serial ports . I have another machine that has serial but would rather connect it to my main machine.
Cheers
Hi,
I have a relais attenuator running and I am thinking of building new ones for the channels of my active speakers.
So I made some thoughts about topologies.
Something very important:
IMHO the kind that is used in Pass amps and the one with R/2R network, both have big disadvantages.
There are currents running through parallel resistors and in lot of cases depending on switching positions the currents will be very very small.
Even with the very best relays IMHO it is not good for sound and the currents will be below the specs of the relays for minimum switcing currents.
I don't want to discourage, but IMHO the best is to use one series resistor and switch shunt resistors to ground.
One single resistor for each step.
That can be done with 15 relays for 0-69 dB in 1dB steps.
But it needs a buffer between two units...
Another method is a matrix which needs 64 resistors for 64 steps and 16 relays in total.
Bernhard
I have a relais attenuator running and I am thinking of building new ones for the channels of my active speakers.
So I made some thoughts about topologies.
Something very important:
IMHO the kind that is used in Pass amps and the one with R/2R network, both have big disadvantages.
There are currents running through parallel resistors and in lot of cases depending on switching positions the currents will be very very small.
Even with the very best relays IMHO it is not good for sound and the currents will be below the specs of the relays for minimum switcing currents.
I don't want to discourage, but IMHO the best is to use one series resistor and switch shunt resistors to ground.
One single resistor for each step.
That can be done with 15 relays for 0-69 dB in 1dB steps.
But it needs a buffer between two units...
Another method is a matrix which needs 64 resistors for 64 steps and 16 relays in total.
Bernhard
Hi,
I'd be careful saying things like that here, where most people have spent $350+ on these kits!
On a serious note, there are 3 or 4 types of APOX volume board. These range from constant impedance solutions to a new (coming soon...) PGA digital volume control IC...
Have a look at their website...
Gaz
I'd be careful saying things like that here, where most people have spent $350+ on these kits!
On a serious note, there are 3 or 4 types of APOX volume board. These range from constant impedance solutions to a new (coming soon...) PGA digital volume control IC...
Have a look at their website...
Gaz
Bernhard said:
If you have the cash and can get by with open/close only relays, you can get into Mercury wetted units which are supposed to make better than ordinary relays.
As for your suggested topology - it is true that it is optimal in certain ways (minimum pass elements), but how about power transfer, constant impedances in and/or out, swithing between phases - leaving ground out of the picture, not being tied to ground etc. Your topology will also have shunting elements with very low current in relays. As you apreciate, I disagree with you on what factors to optimize.
Also you need to ensure that you don't wear out your lower bit relays.
I know it is a lot to read, but if you are interested in these things, you might want to check out the thread.
As for choice of relays rather then other devices, I did some distortion tests. Even cheap relays are way better than anything else I could lay my hands on. My guess is that regular manual switches are as good if not better than relays, but then you have a manual volume control in binary mode. Not very user friendly.
Petter
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.