Thanks for that.
So how do I set this up with a car battery charger and a capacitor then? Battery cahreger connected to AC wall outlet, wired up to a Sealed Lead Acid Dry Cell Cyclyc 200Ah battery, and a capacitor, then amplfiier and subwoofer? All in series?
How can I calculate what sort of capacitor I need in order to have the whole system running at 1500RMS @ 2Ohm continuous and 3000 peak?
Thanks,
JohnnyJ
So how do I set this up with a car battery charger and a capacitor then? Battery cahreger connected to AC wall outlet, wired up to a Sealed Lead Acid Dry Cell Cyclyc 200Ah battery, and a capacitor, then amplfiier and subwoofer? All in series?
How can I calculate what sort of capacitor I need in order to have the whole system running at 1500RMS @ 2Ohm continuous and 3000 peak?
Thanks,
JohnnyJ
You said it yourself - 3000W at peaks
your calculation of 13,8V * 150 A = 2070W is a little incorrect, in fact the amplifier itself has losses in its PSU and amplifier circuitry, with class D, overall effiecency is perhaps 75% ( depends a lot on the amp... ) And 75% out of 2070 Watts is approx. 1500Ws, the rms rating of this amp.
The peak power is measured during extremely short peaks, and thus the slow fuse never reacts, a fuse doesn't trip immediately when the current exceeds its value
Simply put everything in parallell, and the capacitor near the amp, to ensure it's current delivery capabilities. ( see attachment )
One word of caution, though. Be VERY careful if you dont use any kind of voltage regulator, as some chargers can easily deliver more than 20 volts unregulated. In normal use, the battery stabilizes that, but I wouldn't use a charger alone in a permanent installation.
Take a look at the fuse
EDIT
The size of the cap is non-critical, but as large as possible is perhaps a good start? at least a couple Farads... there are some thumbrules, but i cant remember them at the moment...
I read the manual of this amp, and pioneer itself, states this:
This makes selection of a suitable PSU a LOT easier.
the manual:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/p...11221/140981213PRS-D5000SPL OWNERS MANUAL.pdf
This makes selection of a suitable PSU a LOT easier.
the manual:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/p...11221/140981213PRS-D5000SPL OWNERS MANUAL.pdf
Okay well, seeing as the fuse rating is 150A, that means that it can handle 20V input - right? 3000W/150A = 20V.
Is that right or wrong?
Now I just need to find a suitable power supply or whatever equipment to make this a stable system. Could someone please suggest some specific equipment to use? I've been having a look around at PC PSU's but can't find anything suitable - also I don't know what sort of equipment I really need, seeing as there are so many variations you can use with technology these days.
I don't care if it's a car battery[ies] or a PSU with a capacitor or whatever, I just need to know WHAT equipment now, in order to supply my amplifier with sufficient power.
Thanks a lot! This is really helping me,
JohnnyJ
Is that right or wrong?
Now I just need to find a suitable power supply or whatever equipment to make this a stable system. Could someone please suggest some specific equipment to use? I've been having a look around at PC PSU's but can't find anything suitable - also I don't know what sort of equipment I really need, seeing as there are so many variations you can use with technology these days.
I don't care if it's a car battery[ies] or a PSU with a capacitor or whatever, I just need to know WHAT equipment now, in order to supply my amplifier with sufficient power.
Thanks a lot! This is really helping me,
JohnnyJ
One thing no one has mentioned is please show caution while attaching a 1F capacitor to a 12v battery! 
Initially install it via a 12v lamp in series or 100 ohm resistor or whatever. NEVER directly or you will melt something and your face will get molten metal all over it. I am not joking
Also the same goes for discharging, do it gradually... make sure whatever your application, the cap is not suddenly charged or discharged from full to empty or vice versa.
Initially install it via a 12v lamp in series or 100 ohm resistor or whatever. NEVER directly or you will melt something and your face will get molten metal all over it. I am not joking
Also the same goes for discharging, do it gradually... make sure whatever your application, the cap is not suddenly charged or discharged from full to empty or vice versa.
Johnny,
Fuses are usually overrated as worst case scenario... not rated for the maximum music you can get.. at the 150A level you will be getting a LOT of distortion (assuming the power supply provides it and the amp can sink it). Also Car amp fuses are slow blow, their main reason of existance is to protect itself and the owner from fires... not necessarily the circuit itself.
As posted earlier, this is a 750w amp at 4 ohms and 1500 at 2 ohms. It is not 3000watts RMS.
Unless you have already purchased this amp, I'd say, get a pro-audio amp and bridge it... this is too messy for a home environment.
PS: So you think the Aussies are going to lose the ashes finally?
Fuses are usually overrated as worst case scenario... not rated for the maximum music you can get.. at the 150A level you will be getting a LOT of distortion (assuming the power supply provides it and the amp can sink it). Also Car amp fuses are slow blow, their main reason of existance is to protect itself and the owner from fires... not necessarily the circuit itself.
As posted earlier, this is a 750w amp at 4 ohms and 1500 at 2 ohms. It is not 3000watts RMS.
Unless you have already purchased this amp, I'd say, get a pro-audio amp and bridge it... this is too messy for a home environment.
PS: So you think the Aussies are going to lose the ashes finally?
It's maximum power IS 3000W and 1500RMS continuous at 2Ohm. I'll be using it at 2Ohm.
Haha, ****** if I know. I'm actually South African currently living in NZ, well, have been for the past 5 years **** country for teenagers, off to aussie soon though - moving in about 2 months. Big difference between the 2 countries!
Haha, ****** if I know. I'm actually South African currently living in NZ, well, have been for the past 5 years
**** country for teenagers, off to aussie soon though - moving in about 2 months. Big difference between the 2 countries!- Wrong. As I mentioned, the 3000W rating, is at PEAK power, that is, during very short bursts ( a few milliseconds ).
If you read the manual to your amplifier ( if you have one - if you dont, check the link i posted earlier )
And, as K-amps posted, fuses are only there for worst-case scenarios, to aviod fire and exploding batteries in case of a short.
You cant use the fuse rating as a key to how much power your amp can put out.
Also, if you read the manual - the MAXIMUM voltage for this amp is 15,1 Volt, never exceed that.
The manual states that average current at maximum audio power is 15.6 Amps, I think this i a more realistic number. dimension your PSU after this, A 30A, 12V PSU would do this job good, just add a capacitor to deal with current peaks, and you're up and running! =)
( Yes, a PC PSU is a good choice, there are ones that can deliever more than 35 amps )
EDIT
A 35A@12V Aspire PC PSU is no more than 80$ =)
How does that work though.. how can you get the right performance from this amp if you put in MAXIMUM 15.1V at 15.6A?
15.1x15.6 = 235.8W Correct? How does that end up being enough power input? Also, how does that relate to the 150A fuse rating, I am confused as to how these calculations are done, if you can please help me see how this is enough input I would really appreciate it.
I'll be pumping some pretty heavy bass testers and mostly hip-hop music most of the time. If that means anything..?
NOTE: I also can't find those specifications being stated anywhere in that manual, could you please point me to the correct page and direction? Cheers.
THANKS,
JohnnyJ
15.1x15.6 = 235.8W Correct? How does that end up being enough power input? Also, how does that relate to the 150A fuse rating, I am confused as to how these calculations are done, if you can please help me see how this is enough input I would really appreciate it.
I'll be pumping some pretty heavy bass testers and mostly hip-hop music most of the time. If that means anything..?
NOTE: I also can't find those specifications being stated anywhere in that manual, could you please point me to the correct page and direction? Cheers.
THANKS,
JohnnyJ
Ok, I'll try to explain this now.
To begin with, the amplifier ratings, are rated at a continous power, i.e. playing a sinewave, when the measurements take place.
rms - means the average power output ( well, not EXACTLY, but that, is an overcourse at this moment ) when you have a light bulb at 25 Watts, that is the rms wattage we are talking about. A sine wave, however, have higher peak power, but that is not really interesting, we are only interested in the light from the 25W lightbulb.
Now, when you play music, you rarely use all available power, at all time. The music has more dynamic properties, if you listen to a song, it is never at full volume, all the time. you have bass drums, basses, vocals, pianos, guitars, and a lot more, but never at the same time ( now THAT would be interesting to listen to ... or not... ) you only use full power at small periods at a time, therefore, the average power necessary, is only a tenth of the full power capabilities. A little more with some music, less with other. This amplifier can output 1500 watts at 2 ohms, but what it really uses, when listening to music, is 150 watts average power. at the peaks, it will probably reach up to 1500, even 3000 watts, but only for very short moments at a time.
That is what you have the capacitor for, to deliver this power, when it is necessary.
Take a look at my cute waveform attachment if you like
And dont stare to much at the fuses, they are only a safety device.
And ones again - take a look at the Manual!
To begin with, the amplifier ratings, are rated at a continous power, i.e. playing a sinewave, when the measurements take place.
rms - means the average power output ( well, not EXACTLY, but that, is an overcourse at this moment ) when you have a light bulb at 25 Watts, that is the rms wattage we are talking about. A sine wave, however, have higher peak power, but that is not really interesting, we are only interested in the light from the 25W lightbulb.
Now, when you play music, you rarely use all available power, at all time. The music has more dynamic properties, if you listen to a song, it is never at full volume, all the time. you have bass drums, basses, vocals, pianos, guitars, and a lot more, but never at the same time ( now THAT would be interesting to listen to ... or not... ) you only use full power at small periods at a time, therefore, the average power necessary, is only a tenth of the full power capabilities. A little more with some music, less with other. This amplifier can output 1500 watts at 2 ohms, but what it really uses, when listening to music, is 150 watts average power. at the peaks, it will probably reach up to 1500, even 3000 watts, but only for very short moments at a time.
That is what you have the capacitor for, to deliver this power, when it is necessary.
Take a look at my cute waveform attachment if you like
And dont stare to much at the fuses, they are only a safety device.
And ones again - take a look at the Manual!
http://www.mypix.se/ShowFriend.asp?AID=JNIQHMGPFNO
I uploaded two images - one with the batterycharger/battery setup, and one explaining ( well, perhaps... ) the difference between RMS/PEAK/MUSIC power
I uploaded two images - one with the batterycharger/battery setup, and one explaining ( well, perhaps... ) the difference between RMS/PEAK/MUSIC power
Tweeker said:
Both car-audio capacitors and car batteries show pretty low equivalent series resistances, usually in the range of 0.002 to 0.005 ohms, and both have pretty good frequency response, at least much better than required in order to power low frequency audio amplifierss. There isn't any current limitation either, both capacitors and batteries will produce currents in excess of several kiloamperes when shorted (and being previously charged).
The main difference is the transfer function:
An ideal capacitor satisfies the following differential equation :
dV = (I/C) dt
This means that the voltage across the capacitor increases or decreases at a slope whose value is the instantaneous current flowing divided by the capacitance.
For example, a 1 farad capacitor sourcing 50A will discharge at a rate of 0.5 volts per 10 miliseconds. On the other hand, an amplifier playing a 50Hz note draws a current peak every 10 miliseconds, so the capacitor is going to be very effective in damping current consumption peaks (as seen by the power supply) and keeping voltage stable.
On the other hand, an ideal lead acid battery tends to satisfy the following equation :
V = Vthreshold - log (I) when drawing current
V = Vcharge when charging
Where Vthreshold depends on charge level and tends to be between 12V when discharged and 12.5V when fully charged, and Vcharge also depends on charge level but tends to be between 13V when charged and 15V when discharged.
This means that the instantaneous voltage across the battery will jump between 12V and 14V depending on wether the battery is sourcing or sinking current, thus creating a huge voltage ripple with a lot of high-frequency content (this is the infamous "alternator whine"). The battery just can't supply current at voltages higher than 12.5V and can't be charged if the voltage is not above 13V, thus creating a "floating" voltage zone where almost no current flows (have you ever heard about "floating charge"? it ensures that a battery is kept fully charged by keeping it at the top of the floating zone). This also means that the battery gets harder and harder to charge as it gets discharged because a 14V or 15V charging threshold is a bit hard to reach for a charger when it's also powering an audio amplifier at the same time. This fact dramatically reduces battery lifespan since standard car batteries will age very quicly when subjected to discharge cycles involving more than 20-30% of total capacity.
On the other hand, a capacitor works sourcing and sinking current at any voltage within its ratings, so voltage ripple will be very small and will contain only very low frequencies.
That's why I prefer the capacitor approach, it performs better than a battery altough it requires a current and voltage limited power supply and not just a simple battery charger.
I just remembered something - what i am about to say, is in no way a means to throw **** on your equipment, it is just something i experienced myself long ago.
I designed, and built, a 2*8" subwoofer box, for car use. When i finished, of course i wanted to listen to my creation. And of course, my car amplifier wasn't installed yet, so i hooked it up to my hifi-equipment in my livingroom... Damn how dissappointed i was, there was obsoplutely no bass, a lot of airnoise, the box just sounded like CRAP. Damn, i optimized this box, it was supposed to BANG... well, it didnt... Until i installed it in the car, WHAT a difference, it REALLY played the sh*t out of some larger boxes with dual 10", even 12" woofers.
What I mean, is that your woofer is optimized for car use, and even, for SPL performance. It might sound like crap in your beedroom home theater setup. An SPL optimized woofer is in no way linear, and often have big resonance dips/peaks ( the peaks beeing what some use to achieve their big SPL )
- This is just a word of caution, you might get dissappointed.
That is, with the woofer, I dont dought your amp will do the job.
I designed, and built, a 2*8" subwoofer box, for car use. When i finished, of course i wanted to listen to my creation. And of course, my car amplifier wasn't installed yet, so i hooked it up to my hifi-equipment in my livingroom... Damn how dissappointed i was, there was obsoplutely no bass, a lot of airnoise, the box just sounded like CRAP. Damn, i optimized this box, it was supposed to BANG... well, it didnt... Until i installed it in the car, WHAT a difference, it REALLY played the sh*t out of some larger boxes with dual 10", even 12" woofers.
What I mean, is that your woofer is optimized for car use, and even, for SPL performance. It might sound like crap in your beedroom home theater setup. An SPL optimized woofer is in no way linear, and often have big resonance dips/peaks ( the peaks beeing what some use to achieve their big SPL )
- This is just a word of caution, you might get dissappointed.
That is, with the woofer, I dont dought your amp will do the job.
Lengthy explination
Johnny,
For starters, if you have your heart set on using car batteries, it would be improbable to use standard car batteries. I will be explaining why along with other concerns that you presented throughout your posts. And for the record, I downloaded the owner's manual off of Pioneer's website, so when I mention specific numbers and specifications I'm not just guessing.
Battery possibilities:
There are three main types of 12V SLA batteries. They are starter, dual cycle, and deep cycle batteries. To keep it simple, the difference is the size of plates in the cells that hold the charge. The thinnest plates are in the starter batteries, the thickest are in deep cycle, and the dual cycles are in the middle. A standard car battery is a dual cycle battery, and the thinner plates degrade rapidly if they are discharged past 50%-65% of its full capacity. Not even deep cycles will last long if you fully discharge them and then recharge them. The average one will only last 300 cycles or less if used in that manner.
Let's run this scenario: You start out with 2-3 Group 27 SLA deep cycle 130Ah 12V's. (200Ah deep cycle batteries would be much larger, expensive, and difficult to find; although maybe not in Australia) (Also, I already researched this subject completely this year when I bought my boat, and the batteries and charger) A standard car battery trickle charger gives out 1 or 2 amps at 12V. To charge one of the Group 27 deep cycle 130Ah, it would take approximately 12 hours or more to completely recharge it from 60% capacity. To charge 3, triple that time. If you happened to have a battery with a larger Ah capacity, even longer. You could by a faster charger with a microprocessor controlled charging circuitry. That would charge the batteries faster and more efficiently. An average one would have 3 amp charging rates, for 3 different speeds. For example, an average inexpensive one might have 2, 8, and 12 amps respectively for the three different charging speeds.
As regards to what you suggested here:
I won't get into the whole 6V mix-up because you already realized your mistake with the input voltage. For the 12V batteries, they need to be charged by a 12V charger. You could charge 2-3 batteries in parallel with a cheap standard trickle charger, because it pushes 12V at 1A (or 2A if that's the charger's rating) into the batteries indiscriminately. They are not microprocessor controlled, so they charge until the batteries are fully charged and keep pushing. (At such a low amp charge, it won't hurt short term but after a day or more it can start boiling the battery acid and cause a spill) With one of the more advanced microprocessor controller / variable amp rate chargers they shut off after the battery is charged. The drawback is that you can only charge on battery at a time and it has to be disconnected from the other batteries and whatever circuit it is on. The advantage is that you have a faster charge time and will get longer life out of your batteries.
Let's say that you want to this scenario with a SLA (XXX)Ah deep cycle battery, cheap trickle charger, and a capacitor. For your 1500W RMS goal, you would need at least a 1.5F capacitor. For car stereos, 1F capacitors are common and up to 40+ are being produced. (The generally accepted rule is 1 farad per 1000W RMS, although some like to err on the side of excess.) For the test, starting out with the battery fully charged, you would need to charge the capacitor with the charging resistor that came with it (as the instructions state, or it might be self regulating and have it's own charging circuit built in and not have a separate charging resistor). After it is charged, you connect it to the battery in parallel. You could connect the trickle charger in parallel, but that would be impractical because the amount of amps (15A min. up to 150A, just to throw out some numbers) that the amplifier would be drawing would be greater than the 1A or 2A that the trickle charger would be supplying. You could not simply hook up one of the more powerful CPU controlled ones that I mentioned earlier, because they have to be connected directly to a single battery with no load (nothing else in the circuit).
To play the music for any length of time, you would have to add more batteries in parallel. They all have to be in parallel because you have to supply 12V +/-, and then each battery you add increases the available amperage. As you mentioned earlier, you have to calculate amp hours for each battery against the max amp draw. Even with a good name-brand deep cycle battery, you don't want it to discharge more than 50% of its capacity. As the battery is used, the amps it supplies drops, and also the voltage drops. That is very important as regards to car amps, because every amplifier has an operating voltage range. Once the voltage drops low enough as the battery's charge is used, the amplifier's output will be reduced until it stops because of low voltage. Here are your amplifiers specs:
Power source .. 14.4 V DC (10.8 ¡ª 15.1 V allowable)
Current consumption .. 70 A (at continuous power, 4 ¦¸)
Average current drawn* .. 10.6 A (4 ¦¸ for one channel)
15.6 A (2 ¦¸ for one channel)
Fuse .. 150 A
Maximum power output .. 1,500 W ¡Á 1 (4 ¦¸) / 3,000 W ¡Á 1 (2 ¦¸)
Continuous power output .. 750 W ¡Á 1 (at 14.4 V, 4 ¦¸, 20 ¡ª240 Hz 1.0% THD)
1,500 W ¡Á 1 (at 14.4 V, 2 ¦¸, 20 ¡ª240 Hz 2.0% THD)
So as you see, it can produce 1500W RMS (continuous) at 14.4V at 2¦¸. Using batteries, you are already at a disadvantage because the maximum voltage that a brand new, freshly charged average deep cycle (or any of the 2 other types) could supply would be around 12.7 V (give or take). As you can see in the specs, the fuse is a 150A fuse. The amp draw will of course never go above that. With the battery route, you will not get consistently get full power out of your amplifier. With a combination of batteries and capacitors, you could get close. The other difficulty is cost.
Now let's play with numbers. Based on US prices, a good large capacity 130Ah deep cycle battery costs around $100. A good 1F capacitor would be around $60. Depending on how long you want to play, let's say you want 2 batteries. $200. Two capacitors brings you up to $320. A cheap trickle charger and you're up to $340. You could play full volume with constant bass notes at 130A draw for one hour. Your ears are bleeding, and the two batteries in parallel are discharged to around 50% capacity each. If you want more time, add another battery and another $100. Disconnect the capacitor, connect the trickle charger to the batteries (that are already in parallel) and in a day or two you'd be ready to play again.
JohnnyJ said:
Johnny,
For starters, if you have your heart set on using car batteries, it would be improbable to use standard car batteries. I will be explaining why along with other concerns that you presented throughout your posts. And for the record, I downloaded the owner's manual off of Pioneer's website, so when I mention specific numbers and specifications I'm not just guessing.
Battery possibilities:
There are three main types of 12V SLA batteries. They are starter, dual cycle, and deep cycle batteries. To keep it simple, the difference is the size of plates in the cells that hold the charge. The thinnest plates are in the starter batteries, the thickest are in deep cycle, and the dual cycles are in the middle. A standard car battery is a dual cycle battery, and the thinner plates degrade rapidly if they are discharged past 50%-65% of its full capacity. Not even deep cycles will last long if you fully discharge them and then recharge them. The average one will only last 300 cycles or less if used in that manner.
Let's run this scenario: You start out with 2-3 Group 27 SLA deep cycle 130Ah 12V's. (200Ah deep cycle batteries would be much larger, expensive, and difficult to find; although maybe not in Australia) (Also, I already researched this subject completely this year when I bought my boat, and the batteries and charger) A standard car battery trickle charger gives out 1 or 2 amps at 12V. To charge one of the Group 27 deep cycle 130Ah, it would take approximately 12 hours or more to completely recharge it from 60% capacity. To charge 3, triple that time. If you happened to have a battery with a larger Ah capacity, even longer. You could by a faster charger with a microprocessor controlled charging circuitry. That would charge the batteries faster and more efficiently. An average one would have 3 amp charging rates, for 3 different speeds. For example, an average inexpensive one might have 2, 8, and 12 amps respectively for the three different charging speeds.
As regards to what you suggested here:
JohnnyJ said:
I won't get into the whole 6V mix-up because you already realized your mistake with the input voltage. For the 12V batteries, they need to be charged by a 12V charger. You could charge 2-3 batteries in parallel with a cheap standard trickle charger, because it pushes 12V at 1A (or 2A if that's the charger's rating) into the batteries indiscriminately. They are not microprocessor controlled, so they charge until the batteries are fully charged and keep pushing. (At such a low amp charge, it won't hurt short term but after a day or more it can start boiling the battery acid and cause a spill) With one of the more advanced microprocessor controller / variable amp rate chargers they shut off after the battery is charged. The drawback is that you can only charge on battery at a time and it has to be disconnected from the other batteries and whatever circuit it is on. The advantage is that you have a faster charge time and will get longer life out of your batteries.
JohnnyJ said:
Let's say that you want to this scenario with a SLA (XXX)Ah deep cycle battery, cheap trickle charger, and a capacitor. For your 1500W RMS goal, you would need at least a 1.5F capacitor. For car stereos, 1F capacitors are common and up to 40+ are being produced. (The generally accepted rule is 1 farad per 1000W RMS, although some like to err on the side of excess.) For the test, starting out with the battery fully charged, you would need to charge the capacitor with the charging resistor that came with it (as the instructions state, or it might be self regulating and have it's own charging circuit built in and not have a separate charging resistor). After it is charged, you connect it to the battery in parallel. You could connect the trickle charger in parallel, but that would be impractical because the amount of amps (15A min. up to 150A, just to throw out some numbers) that the amplifier would be drawing would be greater than the 1A or 2A that the trickle charger would be supplying. You could not simply hook up one of the more powerful CPU controlled ones that I mentioned earlier, because they have to be connected directly to a single battery with no load (nothing else in the circuit).
To play the music for any length of time, you would have to add more batteries in parallel. They all have to be in parallel because you have to supply 12V +/-, and then each battery you add increases the available amperage. As you mentioned earlier, you have to calculate amp hours for each battery against the max amp draw. Even with a good name-brand deep cycle battery, you don't want it to discharge more than 50% of its capacity. As the battery is used, the amps it supplies drops, and also the voltage drops. That is very important as regards to car amps, because every amplifier has an operating voltage range. Once the voltage drops low enough as the battery's charge is used, the amplifier's output will be reduced until it stops because of low voltage. Here are your amplifiers specs:
Power source .. 14.4 V DC (10.8 ¡ª 15.1 V allowable)
Current consumption .. 70 A (at continuous power, 4 ¦¸)
Average current drawn* .. 10.6 A (4 ¦¸ for one channel)
15.6 A (2 ¦¸ for one channel)
Fuse .. 150 A
Maximum power output .. 1,500 W ¡Á 1 (4 ¦¸) / 3,000 W ¡Á 1 (2 ¦¸)
Continuous power output .. 750 W ¡Á 1 (at 14.4 V, 4 ¦¸, 20 ¡ª240 Hz 1.0% THD)
1,500 W ¡Á 1 (at 14.4 V, 2 ¦¸, 20 ¡ª240 Hz 2.0% THD)
So as you see, it can produce 1500W RMS (continuous) at 14.4V at 2¦¸. Using batteries, you are already at a disadvantage because the maximum voltage that a brand new, freshly charged average deep cycle (or any of the 2 other types) could supply would be around 12.7 V (give or take). As you can see in the specs, the fuse is a 150A fuse. The amp draw will of course never go above that. With the battery route, you will not get consistently get full power out of your amplifier. With a combination of batteries and capacitors, you could get close. The other difficulty is cost.
Now let's play with numbers. Based on US prices, a good large capacity 130Ah deep cycle battery costs around $100. A good 1F capacitor would be around $60. Depending on how long you want to play, let's say you want 2 batteries. $200. Two capacitors brings you up to $320. A cheap trickle charger and you're up to $340. You could play full volume with constant bass notes at 130A draw for one hour. Your ears are bleeding, and the two batteries in parallel are discharged to around 50% capacity each. If you want more time, add another battery and another $100. Disconnect the capacitor, connect the trickle charger to the batteries (that are already in parallel) and in a day or two you'd be ready to play again.
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