Nice to meet you.
I use PS3 as CD transport.
SACD/CD convert PCM176.4kHz/24bit max
Can choose three kinds of Bitmapping.
0,No use
1,Dithering
2,Noiseshaping
3,Dithering + Noiseshaping (may be�E�E�E)
PS3 20GB
�« �mHDMI�n
SONY TA-DA5300ES modified(I take it out from an HDMI board directly.)
�« �mS/PDIF coaxial�n
DAC
I thought that a sound was good and I operate very quickly.
I like it.
Is there the person taking a similar method?
(My English may be out of order. I'm sorry.)
I use PS3 as CD transport.
SACD/CD convert PCM176.4kHz/24bit max
Can choose three kinds of Bitmapping.
0,No use
1,Dithering
2,Noiseshaping
3,Dithering + Noiseshaping (may be�E�E�E)
PS3 20GB
�« �mHDMI�n
SONY TA-DA5300ES modified(I take it out from an HDMI board directly.)
�« �mS/PDIF coaxial�n
DAC
I thought that a sound was good and I operate very quickly.
I like it.
Is there the person taking a similar method?
(My English may be out of order. I'm sorry.)
Very nice work audio1st!
Has anyone tried or considered using a pair of TREAD regulated supplies to replace the SMPS? http://tangentsoft.net/elec/tread/
Has anyone tried or considered using a pair of TREAD regulated supplies to replace the SMPS? http://tangentsoft.net/elec/tread/
Just passed (again) by this thread.
Yes, very nice work indeed, audio1st.
I finished my own approach of a modded Playstation CDP some time ago, with great results.
I've found the most important mods to do are to ditch the SMPS in favor of a well regulated and filtered linear supply, and also to take audio directly out of the DAC and pass it through just one good opamp to amplify it to normal line level (2V).
Basically one can say I've done a similar mod like Mick did. Main difference being only in the schematics, and that I got myself a nice LCD screen for 30 euros (yes, true!
) so that the playstation now is as comfortable as any other CDP.
Also, it is very important to make a new case for the playstation, as the original one has no protection against vibrations caused by the transport. And its original enclosure looks - at least in my opinion - quite horrible
...
For anyone interested in the details and pics, here is a link to my thread over at diyhifi:
http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1356
P.S.: the newest schematics - the ones I finally built the project from - are towards the end of the thread.
The LCD is a rest stock, but still available: http://swallowgames.com/c_PlayStati...e-Lcd-Screen--Car-Adapter-Competition-Pro.asp
Adaptation to the project isn't difficult, basically it's just to strip the screen from its case and unnecessary components, and make the right connections. Only excpetion is: take out the little SMPS it has and make a direct connection to some well filtered +12V @ 0.5A. We don't want any further noise in there. Also, that improves display stability (turns out the small beast is really underrated).
Yes, very nice work indeed, audio1st.
I finished my own approach of a modded Playstation CDP some time ago, with great results.
I've found the most important mods to do are to ditch the SMPS in favor of a well regulated and filtered linear supply, and also to take audio directly out of the DAC and pass it through just one good opamp to amplify it to normal line level (2V).
Basically one can say I've done a similar mod like Mick did. Main difference being only in the schematics, and that I got myself a nice LCD screen for 30 euros (yes, true!
) so that the playstation now is as comfortable as any other CDP.Also, it is very important to make a new case for the playstation, as the original one has no protection against vibrations caused by the transport. And its original enclosure looks - at least in my opinion - quite horrible
...For anyone interested in the details and pics, here is a link to my thread over at diyhifi:
http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1356
P.S.: the newest schematics - the ones I finally built the project from - are towards the end of the thread.
The LCD is a rest stock, but still available: http://swallowgames.com/c_PlayStati...e-Lcd-Screen--Car-Adapter-Competition-Pro.asp
Adaptation to the project isn't difficult, basically it's just to strip the screen from its case and unnecessary components, and make the right connections. Only excpetion is: take out the little SMPS it has and make a direct connection to some well filtered +12V @ 0.5A. We don't want any further noise in there. Also, that improves display stability (turns out the small beast is really underrated).
Yomanze:
those TREAD beasts are nothing more than standard supplies around a LM317. With proper investigation, you could do better at home
To get some ideas, look at my schematics.
Ah, and one final thing for audio1st, I had forgot to say:
make a cover for the cd compartment! it's not a good idea to have daylight entering that area (might make "life harder" for the transport, you know what I mean).
those TREAD beasts are nothing more than standard supplies around a LM317. With proper investigation, you could do better at home
To get some ideas, look at my schematics.
Ah, and one final thing for audio1st, I had forgot to say:
make a cover for the cd compartment! it's not a good idea to have daylight entering that area (might make "life harder" for the transport, you know what I mean).
PS1 Skipping on First Track Only
Experiencing some skipping at the very beginning of track 1 and not again thru the entire play. Have only tested on a burned disc (TY), but I do not have this problem on my other PS1. Is this a symptom of something specific, such as lubrication?
I did do all the adjustments per Mick's page for laser alignment and everything is spot on. Which setting should I experiment with in case it is not mechanical?
Experiencing some skipping at the very beginning of track 1 and not again thru the entire play. Have only tested on a burned disc (TY), but I do not have this problem on my other PS1. Is this a symptom of something specific, such as lubrication?
I did do all the adjustments per Mick's page for laser alignment and everything is spot on. Which setting should I experiment with in case it is not mechanical?
The issue may be purely mechanical and not electro-optical. Check this Web site out for complete maintenance of the laser system:
http://www.geocities.com/psxrepair/lensstage1.html?200828
http://www.geocities.com/psxrepair/lensstage1.html?200828
I just purchased some Black Gate N 4.7uF/50V caps and PRP 22k 1/2W resistors for the output stage mod. I am directly following Mick F's mod instructions. He notes that he is using shielded hook-up wire. It looks like a small diameter coax cable, but I cannot see if he ties the shielding to ground to drain the shield. Is this correct? Is shielded hook-up wire even necessary. If so, where would I connect the wire shield to ground--where the 22k resistors are soldered to the RCA grounds?
hand made twisted pair, with one of the wires connected to ground normally works great for audio... coax is ok also... but whatever you use just be careful not to create ground loops: connect the shields (or the ground wires) alltogether to ground only at one point (star ground), leaving them at the other end floating and not connected, except for one of them, which you can use as the ground path for the output.
100% more output without soldering
Hi
there are some guys in Germany which offer 100% more output volume without any soldering just by "compiling some chips" on the board. It is guaranteed to reverse the step back if the client is not content. They promise better sound so that other mods bocome redundant.
Cost: 100 €
How does this work? Any experiences?
TET-Computerspezials
or in ebay
ad in ebay
Hi
there are some guys in Germany which offer 100% more output volume without any soldering just by "compiling some chips" on the board. It is guaranteed to reverse the step back if the client is not content. They promise better sound so that other mods bocome redundant.
Cost: 100 €
How does this work? Any experiences?
TET-Computerspezials
or in ebay
ad in ebay
OMGHmm, I wonder if the Nichicon version of the SMPS has lots of room around the primary PSU cap, I know the Mitsumi SR670 sure doesn't.
I've discovered that the early north america scph1001 SR670 SMPS have a 200V 150uF capacitor, while later ones have smaller 120uF caps. Later non-SCPH1001 playstations seem to have even smaller capacitors.
I've discovered that the early north america scph1001 SR670 SMPS have a 200V 150uF capacitor, while later ones have smaller 120uF caps. Later non-SCPH1001 playstations seem to have even smaller capacitors.
What TET is promising there, seems fishy to me. How are they suppose to be able to increase the output voltage without any soldering, if the DAC has a max output of 3.4Vpp (at least says so in the datasheet), which translates in about ~1.2V RMS compared to 2V RMS for most CD players.
The only way I could think of would be that they force the DAC to deliver a higher voltage by changing something in the digital domain (which, if even possible (I doubt that), could cause the ouput to be clipped, or at least the DAC chip's life to be shorted as it probably would get hot). So that all looks like BS to me...
The only way I could think of would be that they force the DAC to deliver a higher voltage by changing something in the digital domain (which, if even possible (I doubt that), could cause the ouput to be clipped, or at least the DAC chip's life to be shorted as it probably would get hot). So that all looks like BS to me...
I too am a little sceptical. I know very little about how to design an SMPS but it seems to me that whatever those fancy caps are doing on the AC end of the PSU, is negated by what the chopper circuit does to it soon after ? I would have thought that the fancy caps should be on the output side of the optical isolator ?