Thank you willbewill for that great hint!
I tried it right now. An improvement of about 90%!!!
It's shocking how much clearness and details have won. I am using the original cheap Sony cables with the multi A/V plug.
My modding has ended. There is not much to improve left I think. Any other mod can't give such a big improvement as with this method I think. I am very content an d happy now!!!
You're invited for a (german) beer (or two)!
I tried it right now. An improvement of about 90%!!!
It's shocking how much clearness and details have won. I am using the original cheap Sony cables with the multi A/V plug.
My modding has ended. There is not much to improve left I think. Any other mod can't give such a big improvement as with this method I think. I am very content an d happy now!!!
You're invited for a (german) beer (or two)!
Tolu:
Vpp means "Voltage Peak to Peak" and Vrms means "Voltage Root Mean Square".
The first should be obvious: it's the absolute value of the max amplitude from positive peak to negative peak of the waveform.
The second one is a kind of "average" value, only referring to one part of the waveform (the amplitude of one phase, for example from zero to positive peak), and taking an average value of that. Most AC voltages are measured in RMS, and in the audio domain, it's the preferred way to indicate voltage levels, besides the usual ways of of expressing them in dbV, for example...
If you want to get a "ball park" figure of conversion from Vpp to Vrms, do this:
Vrms = (0.5*Vpp) / 1.44
That DC-DC converter looks nice, though I think it's still the best to use a big linear power supply. With a switched DC-DC converter you always have some HF noise...
If you want, take a look at the link I gave a little back in this topic, from my PS Mod project, to get some additional ideas, as I've taken a slightly different way than Mick did...
Vpp means "Voltage Peak to Peak" and Vrms means "Voltage Root Mean Square".
The first should be obvious: it's the absolute value of the max amplitude from positive peak to negative peak of the waveform.
The second one is a kind of "average" value, only referring to one part of the waveform (the amplitude of one phase, for example from zero to positive peak), and taking an average value of that. Most AC voltages are measured in RMS, and in the audio domain, it's the preferred way to indicate voltage levels, besides the usual ways of of expressing them in dbV, for example...
If you want to get a "ball park" figure of conversion from Vpp to Vrms, do this:
Vrms = (0.5*Vpp) / 1.44
That DC-DC converter looks nice, though I think it's still the best to use a big linear power supply. With a switched DC-DC converter you always have some HF noise...
If you want, take a look at the link I gave a little back in this topic, from my PS Mod project, to get some additional ideas, as I've taken a slightly different way than Mick did...
Ánother problem
@joydivision: thanks for this good to understand reply.
After 3 hours of operation the laser of the PS had many 1-second-drop-outs so I had to finish my audio session.
What is the reason? A heat problem? The PS got remarkaby warm at the left side.
The power supply in an own box or a new one?
Modifying the bias values of the laser unit?
Any solutions? I was so surprised of the good sound so I want to keep the PS as my mayor player but it has to work properly and reliant. I hate trouble!
@joydivision: thanks for this good to understand reply.
After 3 hours of operation the laser of the PS had many 1-second-drop-outs so I had to finish my audio session.
What is the reason? A heat problem? The PS got remarkaby warm at the left side.
The power supply in an own box or a new one?
Modifying the bias values of the laser unit?
Any solutions? I was so surprised of the good sound so I want to keep the PS as my mayor player but it has to work properly and reliant. I hate trouble!
Lots of sudden activity in this thread I'm having trouble keeping up.
Nice neat and tidy job from vuthanh6. I like the style and placement of the buttons on the right hand side. Any chance of a picture of the inside ?
That's an amazingly useful device, and extremely cheap it would seem. With a suitable 12v PSU of sufficient current you almost don't need any soldering at all.
I acquired an SCPH9002 last week, which has only an AV out . Listening via the adaptor cable it sounded pretty good. I curiously noticed that the remote's 'select' button does not seem to 'stop' with this unit, but other than that it worked fine. I fancy the treble was a bit rougher, but I did not listen for very long.
Nice neat and tidy job from vuthanh6. I like the style and placement of the buttons on the right hand side. Any chance of a picture of the inside ?
audio1st said:
That's an amazingly useful device, and extremely cheap it would seem. With a suitable 12v PSU of sufficient current you almost don't need any soldering at all.
I acquired an SCPH9002 last week, which has only an AV out . Listening via the adaptor cable it sounded pretty good. I curiously noticed that the remote's 'select' button does not seem to 'stop' with this unit, but other than that it worked fine. I fancy the treble was a bit rougher, but I did not listen for very long.
Tolu said:
Thank you for that great hint! Read above my opinion about it!
Sorry, but I forgot you in my invitation for the beers!
Any other comment for my laser-drop-out-problem?
My first SCPH1001, I eventually had to replace the laser and motor with one from a PSOne. It reads everything now. But I still lubed the gearing.
I have adjusted the bias and gain setting to Mick F.s values.
After 4 hours there were no drop-outs but ...
the errors yesterday happened with my Patricia Barber - Live a Fortnight in Paris CD which is copy controlled.
Today the warm PS didn't even accepted any song of this CD. The PS declined the CD. I don't know if bias and gain change was a mistake to do.
I will cool it down and see again what happens! Other CDs without copy protection were played without any problems.
After 4 hours there were no drop-outs but ...
the errors yesterday happened with my Patricia Barber - Live a Fortnight in Paris CD which is copy controlled.
Today the warm PS didn't even accepted any song of this CD. The PS declined the CD. I don't know if bias and gain change was a mistake to do.
I will cool it down and see again what happens! Other CDs without copy protection were played without any problems.
Any changes one does to laser settings, should always be done with great care, and only after annotating somewhere the original values (or marking the position of the Pots, for example).
As for the PS, the earlier models indeed did have low quality laser mechanism (with plastic), while the later ones (still 1002) do have the part made from aluminium. Here's a great site showing all the details of the internals of the playstations:
www.playfidelity.com
Tolu, the 1002 models PSU's do get quite warm. A problem Sony later solved. So, if by chance you can get a PSU from a later model, you could adapt the connector (yes, different) and fit. But better yet is to go for complete mod: linear power supply...
If you want to keep original PSU, best solution is to build a new case where the PSU can be kept more far away from the mainboard.
As for the PS, the earlier models indeed did have low quality laser mechanism (with plastic), while the later ones (still 1002) do have the part made from aluminium. Here's a great site showing all the details of the internals of the playstations:
www.playfidelity.com
Tolu, the 1002 models PSU's do get quite warm. A problem Sony later solved. So, if by chance you can get a PSU from a later model, you could adapt the connector (yes, different) and fit. But better yet is to go for complete mod: linear power supply...
If you want to keep original PSU, best solution is to build a new case where the PSU can be kept more far away from the mainboard.
Ok, next examinations.
I reduced bias to 1400 mV. That was too less. More read error but it works with the Fortnight in France CD.
1200mV nothing happens at all. Last try: 1450 mV. The Barber-CD works except the last track. There are some read errors.
All other CDs worked so far without errors.
Would it help to test a new CD drive unit? Mine is the KSM-440ACM. Would a 440ADM fit in the SCPH-1002 unit and would it bring any advantages?
I reduced bias to 1400 mV. That was too less. More read error but it works with the Fortnight in France CD.
1200mV nothing happens at all. Last try: 1450 mV. The Barber-CD works except the last track. There are some read errors.
All other CDs worked so far without errors.
Would it help to test a new CD drive unit? Mine is the KSM-440ACM. Would a 440ADM fit in the SCPH-1002 unit and would it bring any advantages?
may not be the PS
well some CD players are not able to play all types of discs . I had quite a well regarded CD transport/DAC combination that had problems with CD's that were of a length in excess of the Orange Book spec. So some CD's are 70mins or even more. If the PS1 cannot play some of these odd discs, I would not be surprised, it's in good company. For these you also need a really old Philips player like a CD104 which plays everything
well some CD players are not able to play all types of discs . I had quite a well regarded CD transport/DAC combination that had problems with CD's that were of a length in excess of the Orange Book spec. So some CD's are 70mins or even more. If the PS1 cannot play some of these odd discs, I would not be surprised, it's in good company. For these you also need a really old Philips player like a CD104 which plays everything
audio1st said:May I draw your attention to this power supply , just add a 12v DC supply and adjust the output for the 7.6v and 3.6v needed...
First impressions are good, nice and quiet and runs cool.
WillbeWill,
This seems like a no-brainer, javascript:smilie('
')are you bypassing the onboard psu entirely?Price is super right, any problems other than getting a 12v supply to it?
best regards
carl
Tolu, check out the site I indicated. They have a list of all parts and models. I don't remember if the ADM version will fit, but it probably brings no benefits, as the ACM is already the aluminium cast one (only the AAM is inferior: plastic). Except if your laser unit has problems, then obviously substituting it will solve them
Hi Carl,
I am using the voltage regulator with a 12v toroid and a cheap bridge, which gives about 17v DC . Could also be used with a 12v battery.
As pointed out by "joydivision", it is still a switcher..It uses the LM2596..
The thing is, it still sounds better than the original SMPS..(IMHO).
Here's a picture of it cut down and in my CD player, still doesn't get warm..
I am using the voltage regulator with a 12v toroid and a cheap bridge, which gives about 17v DC . Could also be used with a 12v battery.
As pointed out by "joydivision", it is still a switcher..It uses the LM2596..
The thing is, it still sounds better than the original SMPS..(IMHO).
Here's a picture of it cut down and in my CD player, still doesn't get warm..
Attachments
Just finished my output stage mod
I followed Mick Feuerbacher's output stage mods. I used the 4.7uF/50V Black Gate N electrolytics, 22k/0.5W PRP metal film resistors, Mundorf 24 AWG Silver/Gold hook-up wire, and WBT Silver solder. I guess you can say I like boutique passive components. I'm listening to the modded player and it sounds good. The difference between this and the stock unit is small. The modded player sounds just a bit more refined in the highs and more detailed. The mids still sound a slight bit congested. It does seem to have more punch in the low end. I suspect that the modded player will sound better as the Black Gate N electrolytic capacitors burn in. The soundstage is larger and deeper with the modded unit. Overall, the qualities of the PS1 are retained and slightly more enhanced.
In the photos with the caps, it looks like the soldered joints between the Mundorf wire and the capacitor leads are uninsulated, but they are both insulated in clear heat shrink. I also twisted the wire in a pair in case RFI might be an issue. In hindsight, I should have bought some Teflon tubing for those joints and for covering the exposed bent leads on the PRP resistors that are underneath the motherboard.
The mod is an improvement over my tweaked stock unit (PS Audio Power Punch C7 AC power cord and Isoclean 2A fuse). I still think the tweaks really enhanced the performance of the stock Playstation and the output stage mod has taken it to a higher level.
I followed Mick Feuerbacher's output stage mods. I used the 4.7uF/50V Black Gate N electrolytics, 22k/0.5W PRP metal film resistors, Mundorf 24 AWG Silver/Gold hook-up wire, and WBT Silver solder. I guess you can say I like boutique passive components. I'm listening to the modded player and it sounds good. The difference between this and the stock unit is small. The modded player sounds just a bit more refined in the highs and more detailed. The mids still sound a slight bit congested. It does seem to have more punch in the low end. I suspect that the modded player will sound better as the Black Gate N electrolytic capacitors burn in. The soundstage is larger and deeper with the modded unit. Overall, the qualities of the PS1 are retained and slightly more enhanced.
In the photos with the caps, it looks like the soldered joints between the Mundorf wire and the capacitor leads are uninsulated, but they are both insulated in clear heat shrink. I also twisted the wire in a pair in case RFI might be an issue. In hindsight, I should have bought some Teflon tubing for those joints and for covering the exposed bent leads on the PRP resistors that are underneath the motherboard.
The mod is an improvement over my tweaked stock unit (PS Audio Power Punch C7 AC power cord and Isoclean 2A fuse). I still think the tweaks really enhanced the performance of the stock Playstation and the output stage mod has taken it to a higher level.
Attachments
Compared to my existing player the PS1 is not bad but not really better. Soundstage is smaller and sound is not so clear and detailed.
If I have too much time in future I will put a new output stage behind the AK4309 with own psu and LM4562. All other mods seems a little bit esoteric to me.
If you change some resistors or caps the sound will vary. If it is always that big improvement is the question. Some mods can make it worse.
My big hint: buy a Panasonic DVD-S75 at the bay for about 50 $. You'll get a really fantastic CD-player with display, remote control and DVD-function. Before bothering compare it to the PS!
If I have too much time in future I will put a new output stage behind the AK4309 with own psu and LM4562. All other mods seems a little bit esoteric to me.
If you change some resistors or caps the sound will vary. If it is always that big improvement is the question. Some mods can make it worse.
My big hint: buy a Panasonic DVD-S75 at the bay for about 50 $. You'll get a really fantastic CD-player with display, remote control and DVD-function. Before bothering compare it to the PS!