Mick_F said:
The use of blue lasers is justified by blue light having a shorter wavelength, thus it's possible to write more bits onto a disc than with red (laser-) light. That's why DVDs have larger capacity.
The blue LED thing (LED is not laser):
I once took apart a PS's laser unit. There's a dielectric mirror inside who's purpose is to reflect light @ 632nm with maximum efficiency. For the "rest" of the (visible) spectrum it's sort of transparent (=not acting as a mirror), so, in my opinion, it will hardly affect any of the light reaching the detector, if there reaches any blue (incoherent) light at all. And there won't be too much interference either because it's coherence that matters.
Some very interesting points raised and a wonderful description of the sound produced greg. Very good looking final product dommi as well.
I will hopefully be building a subwoofer soon, then i too can experience the bass element, which i am definately lacking with just bookshelves.
I was interested to see the transport bolted to the rest of the remaining playstation. Is this considered to be better than leaving it on the rubber mounts? presumabely it depends on the rest of the case?
This is also related to my second question on damping, should i be adding weight to the transport or bolting it to the rest and damping that?. Mine is sat on half squash balls and built from MDF. but my transport is just as the original.
Also with regard to shielding the power supply, i am looking to use some metal sheet between the transport and ps, is this the best way?
Blue LEDS does sound like nonsense, but i am just about to fit them for looks and so i can tell when the power is actually on.!
Thanks for the help.
I will hopefully be building a subwoofer soon, then i too can experience the bass element, which i am definately lacking with just bookshelves.
I was interested to see the transport bolted to the rest of the remaining playstation. Is this considered to be better than leaving it on the rubber mounts? presumabely it depends on the rest of the case?
This is also related to my second question on damping, should i be adding weight to the transport or bolting it to the rest and damping that?. Mine is sat on half squash balls and built from MDF. but my transport is just as the original.
Also with regard to shielding the power supply, i am looking to use some metal sheet between the transport and ps, is this the best way?
Blue LEDS does sound like nonsense, but i am just about to fit them for looks and so i can tell when the power is actually on.!
Thanks for the help.
Hi Bungy,
i checked different mountings of the Laserunit. The best was to fix the Unit with screws. The to put the hole PS housing on the strings. This is what i've done. If you let the rubber mounts, the laser has to equalize the moving of the complete Laserunit. This will cause a harder sound, a little bit more nervous.
The solution with your squash balls is verry good i think, but you have to fix the Laserunit for make them sense.
KR
Dommi
i checked different mountings of the Laserunit. The best was to fix the Unit with screws. The to put the hole PS housing on the strings. This is what i've done. If you let the rubber mounts, the laser has to equalize the moving of the complete Laserunit. This will cause a harder sound, a little bit more nervous.
The solution with your squash balls is verry good i think, but you have to fix the Laserunit for make them sense.
KR
Dommi
bungy said:
Oh no ! a cables thread
Just joking. I use Satellite TV downlead coax. This is the one with normally a white sleeve and a solid white insulator between core and shield. The shield is copper foil with a wire mesh around that. I cannot remember the designation I *recall* RG100 but that might be wrong. It's a bit tough to bend on account of the solid cores and copper shield, but sounds good to me and is cheap, or even free if you've had a sky dish fitted and the installers left a few meters.
before that I used to use the Tandy Interconnects that were black with gold connectors and 7 quid for a stereo pair. (Ahhh Tandy , why did you have to leave
) ....Probably Maplin have something virtually the same . Maplins do a super flexible Microphone cable in electric blue. Agains sorry but cannot remember the brand (VanDamme ?) but jolly useful if you do need to coil or bend the cables. I have used this in the past too.
Re: Weekend Labors
Greg,
the PSUs of the SCPH-1001 are different to the ones of the SCPH-1002.
I´ve seen only
1-473-383-11 (SCPH-1002)
1-473-383-12 (SCPH-1002)
1-468-219-13 (SCPH-5502)
PSUs so far.
Thus there may be different parts and designs. Heaven knows ...
IMHO this is misleading: Tweaking a PS with the most expensive and so-called-by-experts 'best' parts will result in a completely new product which will lack the charm of the original version with and as well without the recommended and widely accepted modifications.
You´ve tried to specify a number of reasons (which I´d like to second in parts) why a apparent simple playstation can be so good. One of the reasons is the SOTA PSU. Just a subtle hint: Have a look at the PSU of the drive of the Krell SACD Standard. Are there an differences
My questions:
- undamped and uncovered PSU to be laid on the floor?
- how long was the cable you chose?
AFAIK the separation of the PSU and the Playstation drive is the best advantage. I´d like to recommend a 2nd try with a boxed PSU not far away from the Playstation.
Best,
Thomas
P.S.: I have components to listen to music, not music to listen to components, as my dear friend John quotes.
Greg Stewart said:
Greg,
the PSUs of the SCPH-1001 are different to the ones of the SCPH-1002.
I´ve seen only
1-473-383-11 (SCPH-1002)
1-473-383-12 (SCPH-1002)
1-468-219-13 (SCPH-5502)
PSUs so far.
Thus there may be different parts and designs. Heaven knows ...
Greg Stewart said:
IMHO this is misleading: Tweaking a PS with the most expensive and so-called-by-experts 'best' parts will result in a completely new product which will lack the charm of the original version with and as well without the recommended and widely accepted modifications.
You´ve tried to specify a number of reasons (which I´d like to second in parts) why a apparent simple playstation can be so good. One of the reasons is the SOTA PSU. Just a subtle hint: Have a look at the PSU of the drive of the Krell SACD Standard. Are there an differences
Greg Stewart said:
My questions:
- undamped and uncovered PSU to be laid on the floor?
- how long was the cable you chose?
AFAIK the separation of the PSU and the Playstation drive is the best advantage. I´d like to recommend a 2nd try with a boxed PSU not far away from the Playstation.
Best,
Thomas
P.S.: I have components to listen to music, not music to listen to components, as my dear friend John quotes.
I just read this entire thread and would like a little clarification. I am using the A/V out and want to bypass the DC blocking caps. If I want to do this, I only need to remove the the "red" DC caps for the AV out (As indicated in the picture) and jumper then with a wire, correct?
Thank you,
Trent
Thank you,
Trent
DragonMaster said:
Really? I thought that using the AV out, these were the only things in the way besides a resistor.
I am a little unfamiliar with what the DC blocking cap actually does -- I have tried to search -- but not came across a specific definition. I am assuming they stock DC power from entering the circuit. I was worried when somebody mentioned that the preamp must have DC blockers. I do not know if my Jolida 302B does or does not - but I will most likely be using this with my NAD reciever which I believe does.
Thank you
Trent
Well, the other components than resistors are ceramics and muting transistors in parallel to the output(Making a difference in the sound).
You can find the transistors under the PCB.
If you have a Dremel, you can connect the SMD capacitor pad directly to the RCA jacks also(If you have a model with them).
You can find the transistors under the PCB.
If you have a Dremel, you can connect the SMD capacitor pad directly to the RCA jacks also(If you have a model with them).
DragonMaster said:
I am not sure what you mean quite what you mean as the woofers always move with bass (but I know we both know that). I put the playstation on pause, and moved the volume, they made a low scratchy (like a nasty pot) type sound and moved.
I Tested again doing this with my computer as a source, and this did not happen.
I assume this is bad and possibly need to convert to the Mick cap style output or install better caps over those points.
I haven't been much of a fan of the PSX PSU. It gets hot and generally looks undersized to me. I have been thinking of making a PSU. A much simpler one. But now I read here that this one is very good.
Maybe old news. But I can't remember seeing it uploaded here, or a link to it. It's from the SCPH-7500 service manual. It's the best I can do. I have never seen a 100X manual.
The file is too big! It's a single-page PDF file. I'll scale down it somehow and upload it as soon as I can.
Maybe old news. But I can't remember seeing it uploaded here, or a link to it. It's from the SCPH-7500 service manual. It's the best I can do. I have never seen a 100X manual.
The file is too big! It's a single-page PDF file. I'll scale down it somehow and upload it as soon as I can.