Playstation on lead-accid
Hi all,
I have been reading all of this thread last night. I bought a playstation one
some time ago because of the rumours that it should be such a good CD player.
It is a 1002 without any modification (so far). Although I like the sound very much
is does not come near to my reclocked Marantz CD80 with external non oversampling DAC.
It would be very nice however to use it on my sailing boat. On the boat there are 2 lead-accid bateries, one for starting the diesel, one for lamps, radio, etc. Capacity about 100 amp/h
This should keep the Playstation running for a while.
Reading all your posts I came to the next scheme to realise Lead-accid power supply
Maybe you could look at it and tell me if this is the right way to connect the Playstation to a battery
thank you in advance
Hi all,
I have been reading all of this thread last night. I bought a playstation one
some time ago because of the rumours that it should be such a good CD player.
It is a 1002 without any modification (so far). Although I like the sound very much
is does not come near to my reclocked Marantz CD80 with external non oversampling DAC.
It would be very nice however to use it on my sailing boat. On the boat there are 2 lead-accid bateries, one for starting the diesel, one for lamps, radio, etc. Capacity about 100 amp/h
This should keep the Playstation running for a while.
Reading all your posts I came to the next scheme to realise Lead-accid power supply
Maybe you could look at it and tell me if this is the right way to connect the Playstation to a battery
thank you in advance
Attachments
Re: Playstation on lead-accid
yes this schematic is right for battery use.
just change the output cap with 1000uf at least.
of course you can run it from a car battery but it will need a charger and it isn`t practical.
anyway for the rest
and for anybody want a supply from AC i attach the full schematic but you have to use instead lm 317 the lm 150 or lm 338 or lm 350
i hope that you understand you have to make two of them
one for the 7.6 and one for the 3.6 volt and if you do it
with separate transformers or at least one transformer with two separate secondary windings it is better because the motor (7.6v)
causes noise to the electronics (3.6v)
in all cases you will need 1000uf the last cap even if you have
the 22000uf after the rectifiers
Werner Rem said:
yes this schematic is right for battery use.
just change the output cap with 1000uf at least.
of course you can run it from a car battery but it will need a charger and it isn`t practical.
anyway for the rest
and for anybody want a supply from AC i attach the full schematic but you have to use instead lm 317 the lm 150 or lm 338 or lm 350
i hope that you understand you have to make two of them
one for the 7.6 and one for the 3.6 volt and if you do it
with separate transformers or at least one transformer with two separate secondary windings it is better because the motor (7.6v)
causes noise to the electronics (3.6v)
in all cases you will need 1000uf the last cap even if you have
the 22000uf after the rectifiers
Attachments
pieroh said:
Yes, Michael Methe presented a tube output, but as dommi pointed out recently, this output stage is added AFTER the normal output. That means, you will not get rid of any artefacts entering due to the stock RCA output. This is only an additional gain stage for higher output voltage.
Mick
Interesting stuff 
I have a SCPH1002 that I have owned from new - it has been sitting in a draw for about 8 years and has maybe 200 hours on it...
Anyway, I dug it out and had a listen. It actually doesn't sound too bad at all
I played a few songs on the PS and then on my RCD 970BX, the Rotel is more dynamic and involving at the expense of having amost too much edge at the top end for my ears when listening to some types of music.
Electronic music sounds better on the PS but classical sounds better on the Rotel
The PS doesn't give classical music enough space so it sounds a bit blurry compared to the Rotel when there is a lot going on IYSWIM. Maybe that's because the PS is standard? On the flip side, I can't listen to some electronic stuff loud on the Rotel because certain high hats literally make me wince.
Anyway, I think I'll try the mods out and see if it opens out the sound of the PS a bit more. I have found a remote control system for £2.50...
I have a SCPH1002 that I have owned from new - it has been sitting in a draw for about 8 years and has maybe 200 hours on it...
Anyway, I dug it out and had a listen. It actually doesn't sound too bad at all
I played a few songs on the PS and then on my RCD 970BX, the Rotel is more dynamic and involving at the expense of having amost too much edge at the top end for my ears when listening to some types of music.
Electronic music sounds better on the PS but classical sounds better on the Rotel
The PS doesn't give classical music enough space so it sounds a bit blurry compared to the Rotel when there is a lot going on IYSWIM. Maybe that's because the PS is standard? On the flip side, I can't listen to some electronic stuff loud on the Rotel because certain high hats literally make me wince.Anyway, I think I'll try the mods out and see if it opens out the sound of the PS a bit more. I have found a remote control system for £2.50...
Yes Mick, you are right! Michael Methes tubestage follows the opamp stage that is on the PS. I find the output voltage of the unmodified PS is high enough for any preamp , or even poweramp following, so to my point of view there is no need to add another gainstage.
Some of you said that precaution is needed if you solder cables directly to the solder pads near the DAC, where the caps sat before.
You can use a twisted pair of thin teflon coated wire wrap wire and solder this to the solder pad near pin 15 and 16 of the DAC. Gently clamp the wire wrap wire to a vice and turn it with a small drill. You will find a lot of advices in Allen Wright´s cables cook book at vacuumstate. com., funny to read though!
As a powersupply...i will try use a torroid transformer as used for halogen lighting and put two additional windings on it., one for the 7,6V and one for the 3,6V and after rectification take two low drop linear regulators. The 12V winding will be used for a T-Amp (Amp3 from 41Hz.com)
Peter
Some of you said that precaution is needed if you solder cables directly to the solder pads near the DAC, where the caps sat before.
You can use a twisted pair of thin teflon coated wire wrap wire and solder this to the solder pad near pin 15 and 16 of the DAC. Gently clamp the wire wrap wire to a vice and turn it with a small drill. You will find a lot of advices in Allen Wright´s cables cook book at vacuumstate. com., funny to read though!
As a powersupply...i will try use a torroid transformer as used for halogen lighting and put two additional windings on it., one for the 7,6V and one for the 3,6V and after rectification take two low drop linear regulators. The 12V winding will be used for a T-Amp (Amp3 from 41Hz.com)
Peter
Well that was easy
Congratulations on superb photographs of such tiny components!!! I was expecting them to be about 4 times bigger
It has certainly opened the sound out It's cleaner now and the same pieces of music sound less blurry.
I used jumper wire and got 0.2mv DC at the RCA connectors.
It has a different tone from the Rotel, the PS sounds slightly warmer and has no edge to the top end.
I like it.
I do get turn on / off thump though.
It's almost annoying to know I had something that could sound that good sitting in a draw for 8 years
I'm happy listening to either CD player now
Anyone want to buy 6 DC blocking caps from a PS1? One careful owner
Congratulations on superb photographs of such tiny components!!! I was expecting them to be about 4 times bigger
It has certainly opened the sound out
It's cleaner now and the same pieces of music sound less blurry.I used jumper wire and got 0.2mv DC at the RCA connectors.
It has a different tone from the Rotel, the PS sounds slightly warmer and has no edge to the top end.
I like it.
I do get turn on / off thump though.
It's almost annoying to know I had something that could sound that good sitting in a draw for 8 years
I'm happy listening to either CD player now
Anyone want to buy 6 DC blocking caps from a PS1? One careful owner
Hi @ all
i have a question about the Gain and Bias adjust some of you've done. I've adjusted about 5 PS1 with different laserunits and if i take the value of Bias 1,7 V and Gain 1,85 Volt most of the CD don't started. My values with all laserunits are : Bias 1,54 V and Gain 1,65 V. I wonder why with Mick values my PS don't read all CD `s. Any experiences ?
Dommi
i have a question about the Gain and Bias adjust some of you've done. I've adjusted about 5 PS1 with different laserunits and if i take the value of Bias 1,7 V and Gain 1,85 Volt most of the CD don't started. My values with all laserunits are : Bias 1,54 V and Gain 1,65 V. I wonder why with Mick values my PS don't read all CD `s. Any experiences ?
Dommi
Mick_F said:This one is for Jives.
These are the flat cable connectors I use for the connection of the umbilical to the mainboard and the PSU board. For the mainboard use a connector with 2mm pitch, for the PSU 2.5mm (1/10 inch). These are standard values. You can easily cut them to length and solder the leads to the pins.
Hope this helps.
Mick
Hi Mick,
where can i get the connectors you used ? I found only connectors with a pin power rating of 1 Amp. Or is 1 Amp. sufficient ?
Thanks
Dommi
quickshift said:
Hi quickshift. It depends on the value of your resistor to ground, but You'll probably need something > 1uF. I'm currently using a 100uF Bipolar cap, but will probably change to a 2.2uF Polester I found in my parts bin. however I'll need to adjust the ground resistor value as per the calculation in Mick_F's earlier post
DAC chip power pins
In an attempt to better understand the power layout to the DAC I have taken the liberty of annotating one of Micks photos.
I Think that Pins 2 & 3 are the digital supply (DVDD ) and ground (DVSS) and we can see there is a small ceramic close by. Good !
However the VCOM and the AVDD (analog Voltage) & AVSS (Analog ground) have no traces that are visible. I assume the traces are underneath the chip. There are a couple of ceramics on the underneath, south of the Opamp. perhaps these are decoupling these pins ? I'll check these with a meter, but Christmas preperations are the main focus for a few days .....
In an attempt to better understand the power layout to the DAC I have taken the liberty of annotating one of Micks photos.
I Think that Pins 2 & 3 are the digital supply (DVDD ) and ground (DVSS) and we can see there is a small ceramic close by. Good !
However the VCOM and the AVDD (analog Voltage) & AVSS (Analog ground) have no traces that are visible. I assume the traces are underneath the chip. There are a couple of ceramics on the underneath, south of the Opamp. perhaps these are decoupling these pins ? I'll check these with a meter, but Christmas preperations are the main focus for a few days .....
Attachments
output stage
Hi Mick,
I had a look at your new output stage with the WIMA´s soldered directly to pin 15 and 16 of the DAC.
Did you twist the wires of the left and right channel? You will definitely loose channel seperation, if you do so or am I wrong?
What about twisting a ground wire and the hot wire (left and right) together, to keep the channels seperate?
Peter
Hi Mick,
I had a look at your new output stage with the WIMA´s soldered directly to pin 15 and 16 of the DAC.
Did you twist the wires of the left and right channel? You will definitely loose channel seperation, if you do so or am I wrong?
What about twisting a ground wire and the hot wire (left and right) together, to keep the channels seperate?
Peter
quickshift said:
I read the mod site info as nf but it's uf
I paid £400 for my PS1
Try laying radial caps on their side (check out the pics of my Nitias)
I suspected that these machines went for quite a bit of money. I actually think they are very well made, having taken mine apart a few times. even the plastic does not strip from the screw threads with each rebuild. I don't know if it was the same for Sony, but modern games consoles are sold at a loss, and are subsidised from the profit from the games. I have it on good authority that the Xbox360 costs Microsoft $100 dollars more to make than they sell for. However If you buy 3+ games they make a profit.
Hence these machines are well made compared to low-mid level CD players which are made to a specific low cost
I'll try that, thank you.
I'm planning on doing something with the case too, I don't want to recase it as such but I'll spray it gloss black and I have ordered some Brazilian mahogany veneer to add some detail and so it matches my amp and PSU. I may also add a perspex section to the lid.
As far as making a loss on products goes, it's the same with lot of things these days. Ink jet printers are significantly more expensive to produce than they are sold for but the money is in the consumables. I think 2 sets of cartridges cost more than a resonable home photo quality printer. I expect it's the same for home lasers too, they start at a few hundred quid.
I'm planning on doing something with the case too, I don't want to recase it as such but I'll spray it gloss black and I have ordered some Brazilian mahogany veneer to add some detail and so it matches my amp and PSU. I may also add a perspex section to the lid.
As far as making a loss on products goes, it's the same with lot of things these days. Ink jet printers are significantly more expensive to produce than they are sold for but the money is in the consumables. I think 2 sets of cartridges cost more than a resonable home photo quality printer. I expect it's the same for home lasers too, they start at a few hundred quid.