Playstation as CD-player

Hi all,
I'm a newbie here, was dragged in by this Playstation thread. I'm a serious newbie to electronics DIY too, but I have been knocking away at some simple projects like refurbishing speaker crossovers.

I got a 1001 for free, and a 5501 I found for US$15. Tested them both with a game (included with the free 1001), then started to play a little. First I did the bias/gain adjustment from Mick's website, this solved a minor skipping problem displayed by the 1001. Decided after looking at the German Playfidelity site to try to swap the 440 ACM laser unit from the 5501 into the 1001 to take advantage of the more robust aluminum carrier. It worked fine in "test" mode (just plugged it in to the open chassis), I was able to adjust the bias/gain and run the game disc, but once I completed all the installation and closed the case it would no longer read a disc. I fear I may have broken a trace on that filmy cable, although I looked it over through a magnifying glass and con't see any obvious damage.

I plugged the original 440 AAM laser back in to the 1001, adjusted the bias/gain and decided to play some music! I must say, this thing is a pretty good player to my (admittedly high tin content) ears. I started off with Miles Davis' Greatest Hits. Wow! Amazing detail and soundstage. Also heard a lot of background noise. Decided to swap to another CD with live music, Clapton Unplugged. Again Wow, but the background noise was gone. Swapped back to Miles, and realized it is the 20+ years of live recording expertise showing. The noise in the Miles CD is just the ambient noise of the hall, you are hearing hum from the amplification equipment, lots of peope noise, possibly even some feedback from the recording mikes.

Ran through a few more CD's, some Nora, Squeeze, Beatles, right now I have on Lyle Lovett's Joshua Judges Ruth. I've heard piano is one of the hardest instruments to reproduce "true"; this recording has a lot of piano and it sounds like it's in the room with me!

A few people have mentioned issues with bass response. I'm not experiencing this, but it could be my amp and speakers. I'm currently running a Pioneer SA9500 through some recently refurbed AR-3a's. These speakers have substantial bass capability, and I'm no audiophile(phool), so I'm using the tone controls to get the sound that pleases me.

I'm going to try to follow through with some of the mods you all have listed. I also want to repackage this unit in a nice case with a shielded section for the power supply and a remote control. I'm also planning to order a Charlize T-amp from DIYParadise and house it and another Playstation in a common case to hide in the living room. My wife just can't wrap her head around my "huge" equipment, and I can't wrap mine around a crappy all-in-one that fits in her decorating scheme. I see a satifying 2 channel solution on the horizon!

Thanks for the bandwidth,

Tony
 
Lostcause said:
Audio1st, which mod are we talking about? Your now famous filtered 'STEALTH' mod?
which PS1 mod did you do?
Comon dude spill the beans.........
I have 3 T Amps, all modded slightly differently and with different input Caps ( Ansar 4.7uf, Wilmslow Audio 2.2uf and Maplins 2.2uf LCR Polys).. They are all non directional and wonder if this is the problem. I will try swapping for a pair of 4.4uf Black Gates and see what happens.

On the Playstion I just connected straight to the possitive side of the second pair of caps, removed nothing, added a pair of Black Gates for blocking and ran straight to the new RCA's. Picked up a ground and placed 47k resistors to ground, ( also tried 100k and 1k).
This all works fine with the T Amps, the problem is when I bridge out the 4.7 Black Gates that I get DC problems.

I have attached pictures showing where I attached to..
 

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audio1st said:

On the Playstion I just connected straight to the possitive side of the second pair of caps, removed nothing, added a pair of Black Gates for blocking and ran straight to the new RCA's. Picked up a ground and placed 47k resistors to ground, ( also tried 100k and 1k).
Back to the PS1...so you have 2 circuits running to the RCA's? You jumped in but didn't break the original circuit anywhere? Not being an electronics expert on this one I cant comment but could this cause issues? EDIT** Ah, read it properly befor ecomment Lee..Doh!...New RCA's..sorry!

Lee
 
back said:
wow alot of new people here.
dommi the 600R resistor in series with the signal path
is the only think i have left on the board (500r+100R)

i think they make no difference since i ididn`t try it without them.
c429 c430 don`t exist to my ps1 it`s 5502 remember?

Hi Back,
ok, let me see if i understood you right. You have 2 resistors in the signal path, so the signal have to go through the resistors. Is this right ?
If it is so, i ask me why ???????????? Every part more in the signal path is a bed part i think !!!

Dommi
 
audio1st said:

I have 3 T Amps, all modded slightly differently and with different input Caps ( Ansar 4.7uf, Wilmslow Audio 2.2uf and Maplins 2.2uf LCR Polys).. They are all non directional and wonder if this is the problem. I will try swapping for a pair of 4.4uf Black Gates and see what happens.

On the Playstion I just connected straight to the possitive side of the second pair of caps, removed nothing, added a pair of Black Gates for blocking and ran straight to the new RCA's. Picked up a ground and placed 47k resistors to ground, ( also tried 100k and 1k).
This all works fine with the T Amps, the problem is when I bridge out the 4.7 Black Gates that I get DC problems.

I have attached pictures showing where I attached to..

audio1st the 47k worked better than the 100k and the 1k?


Dommi said:


Hi Back,
ok, let me see if i understood you right. You have 2 resistors in the signal path, so the signal have to go through the resistors. Is this right ?
If it is so, i ask me why ???????????? Every part more in the signal path is a bed part i think !!!

Dommi

dommi the resistors was there and i didn`t remove them.
how much damage can a resistor do to the signal.
i think it won`t be audible.
 
Velocewest said:
I'm also planning to order a Charlize T-amp from DIYParadise and house it and another Playstation in a common case to hide in the living room. My wife just can't wrap her head around my "huge" equipment
Tony

Tony,
I was thinking along the same lines, as I still need to box up my T and the wife wants nothing 'on show'. Should be easy to put it all in a nice little unit and the signal will benefit from less connections etc.......easier to hide nearer the speakers too.....back to the CAD I think

Lee
 
before I implement Micks new simplified output circuit I was wondering if anyone has found a suitable place to put some ceramic decoupling under the board ? Dommi used some ceramics around the existing 10uF caps, but there may be a useable place somewhere else .....
 
jives11 said:
before I implement Micks new simplified output circuit I was wondering if anyone has found a suitable place to put some ceramic decoupling under the board ? Dommi used some ceramics around the existing 10uF caps, but there may be a useable place somewhere else .....

Other than decoupling the pins on the chip, I think thats as close as you can get.

Lee
 
Re: SCPH 1002 - Powersupply

pieroh said:
Hi Mick,
you helped me a lot with your advices to set up the laser of the playstation.. you also did some measurement at the PSU recently.
I would like to go for a battery supplied PS.
Which voltages are needed?


no no no my friend.
forget the batteries.

you need a linear power supply regulated capable of 5A minimum.
i made one with 7A and the result is outstanding.

but it`s a lot of current for batteries.

if you go back to this thread you will find info about it.