All right. Now I can rest assured to perform the recap job. Just need to do it slowly. Thanks 👍Ribbon cables are a simple push fit into the socket. Grip firmly at one end and gently apply enough force to move it a mm or two at one end, then transfer grip to the other end and do the same again repeating until it is free. Never bend the ribbon at the connector or it will crack. Replacing is usually smoother and is just a simple firm push until it seats fully.
The thing to avoid is pulling so hard that it suddenly comes free and is cracked or damaged.
They are easyjust edge it out a millimetre at a time from each end.
I'll second Mooly's advice on this. The ribbons are held quite firmly in the socket and when they go, they go suddenly.
I usually hold the length of the ribbon near the socket between thumb and index. all fingers bent over as in a loose fist, then lever against the board or player chassis by rocking on the knuckles of your last three fingers. This also limits the travel when it suddenly breaks free.
I've done a dozen like that and never cracked or teared a ribbon.
I usually hold the length of the ribbon near the socket between thumb and index. all fingers bent over as in a loose fist, then lever against the board or player chassis by rocking on the knuckles of your last three fingers. This also limits the travel when it suddenly breaks free.
I've done a dozen like that and never cracked or teared a ribbon.
Work on the CDM?
Some devices fail to work for a few weeks after such work. The death of the laser is often a slow process and sometimes does not happen immediately. The reason is electrostatic discharge during the work. The laser diode is the most sensitive component in the CD player. Synthetic clothing and dry heating air in winter is enough. To a certain extent, the charge can be discharged when the relative humidity is above 55%.
I only work on the CDM at an antistatic workstation, which is connected to the ground of the power supply. My wrist is also connected to this grounding. As I said no synthetic clothing et C. Close the end of the flat cable with a metal clip after disconnecting it. Makes of course immediately a defect if the device is still under power ...
To the capacitor question before, there I find the hint "Any capacitor that fits in there will do..." dangerous and stupid. I advise to use a reputable capacitor quality. And since even capacitors are counterfeited, to get them from a safe source. That such a capacitor 105 ° must be is nonsense. This says nothing about the quality. A capacitor with the imprint 85° can have a higher quality and temperature stability. This value must be considered in conjunction with the specified life at the specified temperature.
Otherwise here are a few tips: https://dindiki.com/?cdm1-laser-service
Some devices fail to work for a few weeks after such work. The death of the laser is often a slow process and sometimes does not happen immediately. The reason is electrostatic discharge during the work. The laser diode is the most sensitive component in the CD player. Synthetic clothing and dry heating air in winter is enough. To a certain extent, the charge can be discharged when the relative humidity is above 55%.
I only work on the CDM at an antistatic workstation, which is connected to the ground of the power supply. My wrist is also connected to this grounding. As I said no synthetic clothing et C. Close the end of the flat cable with a metal clip after disconnecting it. Makes of course immediately a defect if the device is still under power ...
To the capacitor question before, there I find the hint "Any capacitor that fits in there will do..." dangerous and stupid. I advise to use a reputable capacitor quality. And since even capacitors are counterfeited, to get them from a safe source. That such a capacitor 105 ° must be is nonsense. This says nothing about the quality. A capacitor with the imprint 85° can have a higher quality and temperature stability. This value must be considered in conjunction with the specified life at the specified temperature.
Otherwise here are a few tips: https://dindiki.com/?cdm1-laser-service
Hi everybody. Can anyone please help with an issue I am having with my CD104? I have 2 machines and so I have been able to narrow the problem down to the servo board by swapping boards from the perfect machine. The problem I am having is with the version that has the D041 chip not the later D061. There is a high pitched whine sound coming from the radial motor. This noise is present when tracks are playing but not when the set is scanning for the next or previous track. It can increase in intensity and will start within a few seconds of the track playing. Playback is fine with no skipping. However, if I press the search forward key, search advances for a few seconds then goes completely erratic and stops completely. Before I start poking around, would any of you good people know what the problem is likely to be? Have any of you experienced a similar issue? All griplets have been addressed. Thanks
Gday Paul,
Check out post #895 on this thread that i left but i had a very similar problem. Arm would sometimes skip all over the place and also make high pitched noises while doing so. All i did was replace capacitors 2265 and 2266. I did this and by the way one of the old capacitors read 0uf and it worked flawlessly.
Again check my last post to see links to other websites that mention this problem too
Let me know how you go!
Check out post #895 on this thread that i left but i had a very similar problem. Arm would sometimes skip all over the place and also make high pitched noises while doing so. All i did was replace capacitors 2265 and 2266. I did this and by the way one of the old capacitors read 0uf and it worked flawlessly.
Again check my last post to see links to other websites that mention this problem too
Let me know how you go!
If it sounds like a squeaking fan belt on a car and always comes a few seconds after the playback, it is due to different film capacitors on the top right of the circuit board, it is not due to the electrolytic capacitors, even if they have to be replaced anyway.
Hello Kermit! Thanks for your reply. Oddly enough, I had already read this post but thanks anyway; I did replace those caps and the problem remained. Discs play perfectly, no random stops or jumping. Even 74+ minute discs are fine. I can access tracks going straight from the first track to the last track no problem. The whine grows louder the further into the disc. REV search works perfectly OK but not FWD search even from Track 1. My initial thought was the noise was coming from the focus coil. It is certainly either that or the radial motor. The 2 zeners - 2265 and 2266 - were leaky and I replaced those. I have replaced the BD135/136 transistors for the hell of it as I have a few of these spare. I haven't replaced any of the other caps yet. Thanks.
Hello Nanocamp, thanks for your reply. I'll rummage around in my spares to see if I have some. I'll report back later! Thanks.
Thanks, I'd already read that but I appreciate you taking the trouble to reply
Thanks for replies folks. Incidentally, I repaired a few of these players "back in the day" but my memory is sketchy now on certain aspects as it's 30 years ago! One thing that may be of use to anyone with intermittent faults is to rewire all of the pcb connectors, Repeated removal of the plugs weakens the wire and it breaks (inside the insulation). Remove the plugs and using a small screwdriver to prise the clips apart, remove the block. Then simply move the wires a little further into the block, re-clamp and trim the excess. I have resolved so many intermittent faults by doing this.
Hi, I hesitate to contribute to what is already a very rich list of replies, all with very sound advice. I also think the whinny / ringing sound is to do with the focus coils. When you are sure all caps and griplets etc (all the basic maintenance stuff which is de rigueure on these old players), try adjusting the focus gain on the laser board.
Adjust 'by ear' ;-)
Adjust 'by ear' ;-)
Hello, thank you for your reply. Yes, my initial thought too was the focus coil as this would be constantly moving but then I put my ear up to the underside of the mecha and it seemed to be emanating more from the centre of the arm. I know what you mean about doing a full re-cap, I was hoping to be able to pinpoint the location of the fault more out of curiosity. But I'll probably end up ordering the spares I don't have in stock from Farnell anyway! Thanks again, much appreciated
Hopefully this is not too off topic. I've seen machines with TDA1540 dac's some are straight 40's some are 40D's and some 40P's (not seen any others so far). Does anybody know the differences and are they interchangeable/backward or forward compatible. I assume that as they are used in pairs they have to be of the same type.
Thanks.
Thanks.
The P is in plastic case, the D is ceramic. Electrically, however, they must be slightly different. When connecting to asynchronous USB, it is noticeable that the D does not harmonise with the widely used xmos chipset, but the P does, even if the adaptation to the simultaneous data format is otherwise identical. Why is that? Otherwise I can't see any differences even if some think the D sounds better, I don't hear that when everything else is identical.
Hello guys.
I Have a CD104/00 With CDM0. All graplets are done with wire. Electrolytics on the servo board are done, and all electrolytics in the powersupply are changed to Panasonic FC.
As you see on the pic i just forgot to order those electrolytics on the focus board, will do it.
The problem: cant find TOC, but if i help the swing arm with my finger about 1mm out from the extreme inner it find TOC and play very nice. I did put a furniture sticker on the motor and now it works as it should, but what causes my problem?
The swing arm move really easy.
