First suspects would be a missing supply to the area concerned. Philips often use countless 'safety resistors' to protect rails. It sounds like something untoward has happened when working on the other problem tbh. Look for inadvertent shorts that might have happened and then check all rails at their destinations, not just at the power supply.
It would be to much of a coincidence for the SAA7010 to fail randomly.
It would be to much of a coincidence for the SAA7010 to fail randomly.
Both my son and I have CD104's with NOS conversion including removing SAA7030 over sampler & a 24 pin socket fitted/soldered then off ebay a non oversampling/reclock circuit in place, from a guy in Bulgaria. a lot better than just the 4 wires & the resistor. All soldering by my son who has the soldering rights now.
However the most important mod relates to the many griplets each one must be drilled through then a wire pushed through and soldered each side of the board. FILLING griplets with solder does not work even though they show continuity on a multi-meter I found out the hard way.
If you have wired your griplets it may pay to look at the many "how to" NOS mod the CD104 on the internet essentially 4 wires and a resistor to work at the better sounding on this CD player 14 bits as Philips engineers intended before they were forced to fit the SAA7030 over sampler due to Sony coming out with 16 bit.
On this player 14 bit sounds amazing better than my Cambridge CD4se with oversampling Lampizator even shows how to tap the CD104 for digital output to an external DAC.
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Hi, maybe this has been covered, but so far I have not found anything. The tray control PCB diagrams in the CD104 service manual does not cover the type I have. Six transistors in two rows, letter D in the corner of the board. Does anyone have the missing schematic or the number for my damaged transistor?
I have C548, damagaed, C33840,
Other side is C548, BC328, C33840
Thanks
I have C548, damagaed, C33840,
Other side is C548, BC328, C33840
Thanks
Hi all!
I am sorry for my wrong question
I want to ask what type of 33μF capacitor is better to put in СDM1?
There are many different series of low impedance, low ESR, Nichikon KZ Muze acoustic series capacitors and they are designed for different needs.
There is, for example, Panasonic FC FM, Nichikon PW, KW, FW, and there is Elna SilmikII, Cerafain, Nichikon KG Muse, can any of these series be put into CDM1?
Advise which type or series of capacitors is better for CDM1
I am sorry for my wrong question
I want to ask what type of 33μF capacitor is better to put in СDM1?
There are many different series of low impedance, low ESR, Nichikon KZ Muze acoustic series capacitors and they are designed for different needs.
There is, for example, Panasonic FC FM, Nichikon PW, KW, FW, and there is Elna SilmikII, Cerafain, Nichikon KG Muse, can any of these series be put into CDM1?
Advise which type or series of capacitors is better for CDM1
First and foremost make sure that what you get will fit. You will find any new 33uF from any of the big names will be superior to the originals. These caps are not stressed at all and pass minimal AC components so there is no degradation over time via that route. They do not need to be low ESR but it doesn't matter if they are.
Thanks for the answer, I understood everything, I will put the more durable ones at 105 C
Hi all!
Tell someone tried to put the Metronom in the player, tell anyone who has experience, it's very interesting to know.
https://nanocamp.de/?metronom-tda1540 ,
Tell someone tried to put the Metronom in the player, tell anyone who has experience, it's very interesting to know.
https://nanocamp.de/?metronom-tda1540 ,
Ribbon cables are a simple push fit into the socket. Grip firmly at one end and gently apply enough force to move it a mm or two at one end, then transfer grip to the other end and do the same again repeating until it is free. Never bend the ribbon at the connector or it will crack. Replacing is usually smoother and is just a simple firm push until it seats fully.
The thing to avoid is pulling so hard that it suddenly comes free and is cracked or damaged.
They are easy
just edge it out a millimetre at a time from each end.
The thing to avoid is pulling so hard that it suddenly comes free and is cracked or damaged.
They are easy
just edge it out a millimetre at a time from each end.