I have seen a lot of techniques to make a curve cabinet and i think it is not finished.
CNC the most powerful
http://audioclone.free.fr/photos1.html
PMS built by Pierre Nicoloso
Multifoil , bending a lot of foils, it will be your technique ? Not easy.
Le projet Icelante - Enceintes DIY et meubles DIY
Look like !
http://www.cinetson.org/phpBB3/menu...otec-d260-seas-excel-w22ny001-t26285-120.html (not work at this post time)
The base is a trapeze and you stick a piece of wood with a "round" shape.
With a special piece of wood,
Cyclop-JB
Enceinte colonne DIY boomer EXCEL W21EX001 et tweeter Morel MDT33 - photos
It is not possible to find this wood in France, they stop sell it... Why ? I don't know.
Take also a look here, another shape ((o Neeper Acoustics o)) - gallery
CNC the most powerful
http://audioclone.free.fr/photos1.html
PMS built by Pierre Nicoloso
Multifoil , bending a lot of foils, it will be your technique ? Not easy.
Le projet Icelante - Enceintes DIY et meubles DIY
Look like !
http://www.cinetson.org/phpBB3/menu...otec-d260-seas-excel-w22ny001-t26285-120.html (not work at this post time)
The base is a trapeze and you stick a piece of wood with a "round" shape.
With a special piece of wood,
Cyclop-JB
Enceinte colonne DIY boomer EXCEL W21EX001 et tweeter Morel MDT33 - photos
It is not possible to find this wood in France, they stop sell it... Why ? I don't know.
Take also a look here, another shape ((o Neeper Acoustics o)) - gallery
lol@ tonton marc's avatar. I'll have to register for that site later so I can see images of that speaker, it won't show it to me without a membership
The Multifoil is beautiful. I considered that idea too.
This is the idea that I'm going to try to copy (picture), except I'm going to use mdf and threaded rods to hold them together instead of dowel pins. I'm probably going to make a jig that lets me cut the outside shape, and then another jig for cutting out the centers. Once I have the jig, I should be able to produce the 30-40 pieces (still not sure on size) fairly quickly by clamping the jig over the wood, slicing the pieces out with the router and then just moving the jig over, like cookie cutting
I hope to get the wood here in the next couple of weeks when I can borrow a truck to go get it
My hope is that once the layers are glued and clamped together with permanent threaded rods is that it will be very heavy and sonically inert.
I'm still trying to figure out the perfect size, one that's big enough for my M6A or the RS180 when I decide to try it...or maybe even a revelator, the latter depending on how my luck plays out with the lotto.
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Hey Henry!
This project kinda fell by the wayside, I decided to try the ZX Spectrum because I had the midbass driver already.
Once I finish those up (they're still in my prototype boxes) I was thinking about doing something with the RS-180, either this one or maybe something bigger.
I think the RS-180 would look great in a WWWWT tower, but that comes with it's own set of issues to work out :S
Or did you mean the crazy leaf cabinet?
The cone resonances don't get worse the louder you play it, everything is relative.
Simpler is rarely 'better' unless simpler gets the job done. Yes they are still open sounding. As both Sreten and I have mentioned, you should be aiming for 4th order acoustic slopes, which is the drivers natural roll off combined with the electrical filter.
That phase shift is nothing other then phase wrap which is a product of the 'measuring' or phase extrapolation process. Usually it occurs when there's excessive 'time of flight' before the impulse response.
Here is an example of just that, the second picture represents the same system but with both drivers delayed by 300us. Neither one is 'right' or 'wrong' because the important factor is that the phase response describes the relative difference between the two drivers. This remains the same whether the drivers are delayed by x seconds or not.
As I mentioned before to check for the drivers being phase aligned through the crossover region, for an even order xover you invert the polarity of one of the drivers, this should create a nice symmetrical notch about the xover frequency. Such as this...
I think you are getting far too ahead of yourself on this and adding in complexities and variables that are as of yet unimportant. Driver selection is important, but by far the most important aspect is the crossover. You should be able to design a very nice sounding loudspeaker with most of the tweeters mentioned in this thread. The differences between most of them will be quite small when implemented properly. The DX25 would be a good place to start as it is inexpensive and performs extremely well for the price.
I know this is an older thread but I'm thinking about doing an RS-180 / DX25 or XT25 project. Which tweeter is used in those modeled curves? What was the crossover used?
thanks!
Zaph used the RS180 crossed 2nd order at 850hz. I used 4th order at 1700 which gives more suppression than his application. What allowed me to use the RS180 and XT25 was the use of Dave Pellegrene's wave guides to allow the XT25 to be crossed lower. The result is stunning. Off axis is amazing and the XT25 loves being in a WG as per its phase plug. Wave guides boost the low end which lowers the distortion when you hammer the curve back down in the cross over. It has been demonstrated in other builds that it allows the XT25 to much cross lower. WG's also time align the drivers which is an added benefit. I'm really happy with the results.
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