Simple. When the user does it himself and things go wrong.... User error, no warranty. Either send it back with warranty and added costs or do it yourself with accepted risk.
Are you sure about that? I'm under the impression that where the reclocking is done hasn't changed in any dam1021 revision; it's only changed in the completely different board, the dam1121 OEM module.
&
My bad, it was only on the other models that Soren added post-FPGA reclocking
See my post here where I reference several other posts referring to the DAM reclocking including Soren's post saying that he added them to the 1121 & 1101:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vend...magnitude-24-bit-384-khz-108.html#post4695897
Sorry for the confusion.
There as some other good posts by Nige2000 where he discusses his experiences with various reclocking schemes, well worth reading.
Greg in Mississippi
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I see trying sync-mode on the Mamboberry ES9023 via this pin! YAY!
TIA!
Greg in Mississippi
Hi Greg,
Your dtoverlays look correct. It's probably the old version of PCP.
I've only done this on a fresh compile of Clive's 4.4.x simple & a squeezelite 80x compile.
I can try it on piCorePlayer 3.02 for you--
--Scott
I have a Kali/Mambo LS and would be interested in trying this, so I'd appreciate any pointers on how to go about it.
John
Does anyone know if any other ES9023 HATs offer the ability to run in synchronous mode?
I'm not aware of any 9023 HATs that could support that, but I've tested a 9023-based DAC clocked by a local high quality oscillator (Crystek) vs. MCLK from Kali with no significant changes in SQ.
However, if the 9023's local oscillator is low-end, running it synchronously with the Kali will probably improve things.
However, if the 9023's local oscillator is low-end, running it synchronously with the Kali will probably improve things.
The Mamboberry DACs will require a mod to run in sync mod, but it is a minor one (at least in my world!).
If you look at the great picture Soundcheck posted of the MBLS in his thread on the DAC, you'll see just to the left of the clock a 51R1 resistor. The top pad of that resistor goes to the MCLK pin on the DAC (pin 13). You remove that resistor, then connect from the MCLK pin from the Kali to either the top pad of the resistor (ok) or directly to the MCLK pin 13 (better, but requires even bettery SMD soldering skills). Best to use a section of the coax from a u.fl cable, making sure to connect the ground close to where you solder each end. You might even be able to fit in a u.fl socket at that pad and the pad for the MCLK pin from the Kali on the expansion area of the MBLS.
If you like it, un-power the clock by cutting the 5v power trace to the input of the clock's regulator. See the rendering of the clock section of the circuit board that VASILIST posted. Do that right at the regulator and you can easily re-engage the on-board clock by scrapping off some of the mask at the regulator input lead, doing a small solder bridge to re-power the regulator and clock, removing your MCLK connecting cable, and replacing that 51R1 resistor.
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. This works about the same way with the original Mamboberry, the resistor is a 100R instead of 51R1 and you are cutting the clock power trace right at the local reservoir capacitor, but otherwise it is functionally the same. My mod list for the Mamboberry's will include this.
If you look at the great picture Soundcheck posted of the MBLS in his thread on the DAC, you'll see just to the left of the clock a 51R1 resistor. The top pad of that resistor goes to the MCLK pin on the DAC (pin 13). You remove that resistor, then connect from the MCLK pin from the Kali to either the top pad of the resistor (ok) or directly to the MCLK pin 13 (better, but requires even bettery SMD soldering skills). Best to use a section of the coax from a u.fl cable, making sure to connect the ground close to where you solder each end. You might even be able to fit in a u.fl socket at that pad and the pad for the MCLK pin from the Kali on the expansion area of the MBLS.
If you like it, un-power the clock by cutting the 5v power trace to the input of the clock's regulator. See the rendering of the clock section of the circuit board that VASILIST posted. Do that right at the regulator and you can easily re-engage the on-board clock by scrapping off some of the mask at the regulator input lead, doing a small solder bridge to re-power the regulator and clock, removing your MCLK connecting cable, and replacing that 51R1 resistor.
Greg in Mississippi
P.S. This works about the same way with the original Mamboberry, the resistor is a 100R instead of 51R1 and you are cutting the clock power trace right at the local reservoir capacitor, but otherwise it is functionally the same. My mod list for the Mamboberry's will include this.
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Thanks Scott. I'll load up an SD card with 3.02 this weekend and give it a try. If it doesn't work for me again, then maybe you can try it and help me figure out what I'm doing wrong.
I'll let you know how it comes out!
Greg in Mississippi
I have heard comments by others who tried running the ESS DACs in sync mode that the presentation was different and they preferred it to the typical asynch configuration on those DAC chips. This included several people commenting in Ian's FIFO thread and Barrows talking about running the Sonore USB-I2S interface in sync mode.
But like you said, you have to have no worse of a clock signal going into the DAC in sync mode for it to work better. I'm not convinced we can do that by feeding the clock from the Kali, but it is cheap, easy, and worth a try.
Heck, if one wanted to burn money, I saw that the Pulsar clocks are available again... put a couple of those on your Kali (with appropriate mods to handle the increased power requirements) and I BET one would be in hog heaven... and there sync mode would be a no-brainer!
Greg in Mississippi <- being silly there at the end!
Further to what Greg said about the Mambo, with the Audiophonics.... you just move the 100R resistor from R2 (enable on-board OSC) to R1 (enable external MCLK) position if you want to use external MCLK.
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Hello i have a problem powering my Kali. Every powerjack i've tried does not fit. The pin inside Kali's powersocket seems to be too thick.
Can i use the pins beside the powersocket? I mean the pins of wich the documentation states "Do not use. For internal testing only" ?
Best regards,
Bart
Can i use the pins beside the powersocket? I mean the pins of wich the documentation states "Do not use. For internal testing only" ?
Best regards,
Bart
Hi Bart, I use the 2 pin header next to the power socket (I didn't have anything to fit either, and continuity buzzed out as connected) It's dead easy to get the polarity reversed so be careful!