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the schematic was posted few pages back, need to check the page number. i'm writing a manual for this board and will be available soon. the advantages are: for every amplifier class, direct BTL setup, just connect the loudspeaker between the outputs, and connect the input signal together, allows using the amp within a system wich carries balanced audio signal, like most of the mixers, DJ consoles, etc. and most important, for class D and T, the inherent bus voltage pumping effect cancellation wich have negative effect in amplifier performace, stability and reliability.
 
Thx. It is page 42. And I can see also that it could be used with unbalanced input and output. I would like to used it in not BTL. I see also that it needs a +-15 VDC power supply, wich current? The Opamp is mounted in support to change it easy?
I will wait for the instructions before to order it.
Also, I am interested in the amp module TA0105ARB, but the document download is not there ?
 
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the power supply requirements are > +-20V to +- 60V. the current draw is etween 5 to 25 mA depending on the supply voltage. the board has voltage regulators with 2 zenner diodes and resistors. on this version the opamp is SOIC08 case, so need to be desoldered to be replaced. next batch i will make with DIP08 and socket for easy replacement. cannot remove the input capacitor of any tripath amp, since the input is biased at arround 2.5V and without capacitor will not work.
i will clean-up the entire site and fix broken links to the documents which cannot be accessed and i will upload the missing ones in the weekend.
 
To add some customer feedback to this thread: I had technical problems with my first TA3020 v2 board and although purchase had happened a couple of month earlier, Cristi was kind enough to replace the board. It arrived safely and plays beautifully. All in all I'd call this excellent customer support.
 
I just got a shipment of two TA3020AmpV3b and an A1000SMPS with all the extra trimmings today. DHL was unbelievably efficient; it was picked up by them at 11:44 on Wednesday (Hong Kong time) and arrived at my door today Friday at 14:56 (Swedish time). That's just over two days, including customs treatment in Sweden.

It did take quite some time in Hong Kong, but Christi say's this is mainly due to a paranoid customs office on his end, plus that I managed to place the order just before a major holiday.

I’ve just opened the parcel and done a visual inspection. Everything looks very neat and well built. The packaging wasn’t exactly overdone, but quite sufficient.
There was a minor VAT incurred, but I had expected that. Customs only debited standard VAT according to the declared value (which didn’t exactly match what I paid, but the difference was in my favor :D), but didn’t hold on to the package more than an hour.

Tomorrow I will do some testing.
 
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Cristi, quick question: I'm looking for a nice Class D (not AB) solution for my Usher Mini-dancers. They need about 100-150 watts behind them to really open up, and I was wondering which of the modules would work the best. I have narrowed it down to three options so far,

1. The TA3020 v3b

2. 2x TDA 892X in bridge mode

3. IRAUD7 stock version

Of the above, which is the best (audio performance, not efficiency) for my needs?

I notice the TDA892xx uses ceramic coupling caps, if my source is guaranteed zero offset (bridge mode), I would like to eliminate them if possible.

The speakers are 85dB/w (maybe 87) and pretty flat 8 ohms impedance, never dips below 6 ohms. Use the Usher 8948A mid, and 9950Be tweeter.
 
depending on the available supply voltage, you may use either of the amplifiers which you mention before. so, if there is available just +-22 to +-27V you can use TDA8924 amp in BTL mode. if the voltage is higher, +-33 to +-40V you can use IR7 amp, and for +-40 to +-55V can use TA3020 based amp. the v3b has minimum idle current consumption, just 40-50mA on positive rail and 90-110mA on the negative rail.

i don't use ceramic caps as input caps on any amplifier module. all the amplifiers use polypropylene or polyester capacitors as input caps. i use ceramic caps only for supply decoupling and they are SMD X7R type.
i don't recommend to use any amp without the input caps, especially the class D and T amplifiers, where few mV offset can have much worse consequences than the worst input capacitors which can be used.
 
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Thanks for that - I have no transformers yet and good EIs are pretty cheap in my country, and can be made to order in very small quantities without much financial consequence.

Just wanted to know which would be the best performer of all three, objectively or subjectively. Already leaning toward the IR2092 amp as it seems to be the most moddable of the lot with boutique parts, but would appreciate input on the performance.

Point taken about the offset. I realise now the operating point might actually shift with a small amount of offset, probably increasing losses and related heat issues with the output stage. I actually have 0.0mV, as the summing stage of the DAC (Buffalo/IVY) operates as a balanced receiver, and will be coupled to the amp with a few inches of wire (sharing enclosure). It's probably better not to risk it though. I didn't notice the paralleled 0.47uF MKPs on the input side earlier, somehow I kept thinking about the board bottom with a bunch of X7Rs and I thought those were the input caps...

anyway, awaiting your input before I bite the bullet.
 
Just wanted to know which would be the best performer of all three, objectively or subjectively. Already leaning toward the IR2092 amp as it seems to be the most moddable of the lot with boutique parts, but would appreciate input on the performance.
i can't compare apples with bananas, but, if you intent to mod the amp, then yes, the IR is more suitable for this purpose, beside the IC and the MOS-FET's all other parts can be found on most of the repair&hobby shops. also the ouput power is scalable with an order of 10, just by replacing few parts and the output transistors, which is not easy to achieve with any other amp.
Point taken about the offset. I realise now the operating point might actually shift with a small amount of offset, probably increasing losses and related heat issues with the output stage. I actually have 0.0mV, as the summing stage of the DAC (Buffalo/IVY) operates as a balanced receiver, and will be coupled to the amp with a few inches of wire (sharing enclosure). It's probably better not to risk it though. I didn't notice the paralleled 0.47uF MKPs on the input side earlier, somehow I kept thinking about the board bottom with a bunch of X7Rs and I thought those were the input caps...
even if your source has zero offset, the amplifier does not. some amplifiers input stage, like Tripath ones are biased at about 2.5V if you remove the input cap, the amp will simply not work.

Thanks for the feedback on R39/40. DC offset adjustment means running the amp without heatsink for that time - no problem?
while you make adjustments, you may run the amplifier without the heatsink, but without load and signal. there is an idle power dissipation which will reach ballance after 2-3 minutes and the MOS-FET's temperature will stick to 50-60*C. but if you add load and signal, this may increase rapidly and destroy them if they are overheated.
 
Oh no, no more smoke please :eek:. So far I replaced to output caps (100 nF) by the same value but used Siemens KP. Biascap enlargement seems to be beneficial for all chip amps - used a 2.2µF Roederstein MKT. Input caps are some 3.6µF PIO's. Next will be the resistors mentioned and the six electrolytes near the input caps - that will be all ;).
 
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