So it was declared by the seller and so it seems looking at it... a strange N and a S are printed on it...though different from the standard NS logo.
I've measured temperature:
Metal Can 54°C
Plastic 47°C
I've also tried with 100nF and 10nF in C7 and that cap doesn't seems to influence temperature.
Trimmed also pins of one of the two LM318H and I've measured the exact same temperature.
I'm a bit confused...
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According to the National datasheet the metal can thermal resistance is 160C/W from junction to ambient while the DIP package is 100C/W. The difference is probably due to differences in the surface area of the parts. The can should be a bit hotter but the temperatures you measured are not a cause for concern. C7 should not influence temperature and there is no indication of oscillation from what you have said. A quick check with an oscilloscope would confirm that. Shortening the pin length is a good thing in general but would not affect the temperature much in the absence of oscillation.
Andrew, this last post demonstrates that you're malicious. 
My last posts are perfectly in topic since the metal can LM318 is part of the GB.
Some users received both the DIP and the metal can version to try...as for some shinkoh resistors, and we were talking about adapters to mount such metal can opamps and measured temperature, possible oscillation.
Components change, alternatives and tuning was expected from the start in this GB, the relative build thread should reflect that.
My last posts are perfectly in topic since the metal can LM318 is part of the GB.
Some users received both the DIP and the metal can version to try...as for some shinkoh resistors, and we were talking about adapters to mount such metal can opamps and measured temperature, possible oscillation.
Components change, alternatives and tuning was expected from the start in this GB, the relative build thread should reflect that.
Hi Clave,
you asked if you should open a new thread to discuss optional component choices for differing sound output.
I have nothing against that idea.
In fact I welcome it.
That is why I am reminding you and others of the new thread idea.
I see a new thread as offering the probability of removing the contradictory reports we are seeing in this build thread.
I repeat again, this is a build thread to offer advice to those who need help or clarification on how to assemble their MyRefC.
It is not a discussion thread for options on selecting alternative sounding components. That discussion is clearly better serviced in another thread.
That is not malicious.
you asked if you should open a new thread to discuss optional component choices for differing sound output.
I have nothing against that idea.
In fact I welcome it.
That is why I am reminding you and others of the new thread idea.
I see a new thread as offering the probability of removing the contradictory reports we are seeing in this build thread.
I repeat again, this is a build thread to offer advice to those who need help or clarification on how to assemble their MyRefC.
It is not a discussion thread for options on selecting alternative sounding components. That discussion is clearly better serviced in another thread.
That is not malicious.
Dario,
I think Andrew is being overly sensitive about where information should be posted. As with music, I think it comes down to preference. Some prefer all information in one thread while others might prefer to have separate threads for information relating to different topics. You aren't going to please everyone. People should keep this in mind and appreciate the efforts of others and tolerate their differences.
However, I do agree with Andrew that it can be confusing to keep track of the different recommendations and proposed changes. Perhaps this will help.... Here are the changes to the Ultimate BOM that I have found after reviewing the posts in this thread and others:
C6 - Wima MKS2XL 4.7uF (status)
C10 - Silver Mica 22pF 50V (status)
C11 - Wima MKS2XL 4.7uF (status)
C12 - Wima FKP2 220pF (status)
C21 - not used since C9 is a Blackgate (status)
C34 - Silver Mica 10pF 200V (status)
D1,D2,D3,D4 - SBYV27-100 (status)
R3 - Caddock MP915 (status)
R13 - Caddock MK132 (status)
Not to put more work on you, but it would be really helpful if you could update the (status) of each change with something like (highly recommended), (recommended), (no conclusion yet). Also, please add any changes I missed (I thought I read something about using carbon resistors in some positions, but I cannot find the posts).
I appreciate your effort and time spent on this project. Thank you!
I think Andrew is being overly sensitive about where information should be posted. As with music, I think it comes down to preference. Some prefer all information in one thread while others might prefer to have separate threads for information relating to different topics. You aren't going to please everyone. People should keep this in mind and appreciate the efforts of others and tolerate their differences.
However, I do agree with Andrew that it can be confusing to keep track of the different recommendations and proposed changes. Perhaps this will help.... Here are the changes to the Ultimate BOM that I have found after reviewing the posts in this thread and others:
C6 - Wima MKS2XL 4.7uF (status)
C10 - Silver Mica 22pF 50V (status)
C11 - Wima MKS2XL 4.7uF (status)
C12 - Wima FKP2 220pF (status)
C21 - not used since C9 is a Blackgate (status)
C34 - Silver Mica 10pF 200V (status)
D1,D2,D3,D4 - SBYV27-100 (status)
R3 - Caddock MP915 (status)
R13 - Caddock MK132 (status)
Not to put more work on you, but it would be really helpful if you could update the (status) of each change with something like (highly recommended), (recommended), (no conclusion yet). Also, please add any changes I missed (I thought I read something about using carbon resistors in some positions, but I cannot find the posts).
I appreciate your effort and time spent on this project. Thank you!
Hi BlueGTI,
I've agreed that some confusion arose, my last post about mods wasn't that clear...
And then started this discussion about confusion and what is on topic.
If the problem is confusion it can be managed easily, I'll post less and more focused on alternate components.
If problem is what is on topic we are on the preference field...like you said.
I agree that alternate components could be 'borderline' but I don't think they're clearly off topic.
Andrew thinks otherwise, it seems.
I would have posted this data already if it wasn't for this discussion...
As I've said to me it seems the problem is if I'm allowed or not to post about it on this thread (!)
I hope we could define this situation and then I'll clarify on it, on this thread or in a new one.
Is Andrew, as the thread starter, entitled to define what is on topic?
What happens when two members disagree on what is on topic?
I would be nice if a moderator can clarify this (thanks in advance)
Thanks, you're welcome!
Clave & I are in private discussion to try and clear up this disagreement.
It does not matter that I started the Thread.
However, if one were to go back to the preceding Design thread you will find that I proposed a break off thread that specifically addressed build issues. The sole reasons being to separate out the possibility of confusion and to make it easy to find the build information that is often needed by the less experienced.
yes, Andrew and any other Member has the right to offer an opinion on what is "off topic"
It does not matter that I started the Thread.
However, if one were to go back to the preceding Design thread you will find that I proposed a break off thread that specifically addressed build issues. The sole reasons being to separate out the possibility of confusion and to make it easy to find the build information that is often needed by the less experienced.
that is not what this disagreement is about.
I have never passed judgment on Members reports of their experiments in this thread.
I did not criticise any one or few Members for the contents of their reports.
This is all about what a "build" thread should tell the builders. It is not about redesigning an amplifier to produce a different performance.
I don't post much. But I have to agree with AndrewT.
I've built two of my amps. I will probably have some questions when it comes time to get them up and running.
As it looks right now I will have to go threw MANY pages of "IMO" off topic content to try to find answers to the basic questions I may have.
I do however really like the "off topic" stuff. Keep it up it's good but also think of the many who just want to get there amps up and running as they were delivered. I for one don't like to ask questions that have already been answered. Less pages equal less searching.
Those are my thoughts.
I've built two of my amps. I will probably have some questions when it comes time to get them up and running.
As it looks right now I will have to go threw MANY pages of "IMO" off topic content to try to find answers to the basic questions I may have.
I do however really like the "off topic" stuff. Keep it up it's good but also think of the many who just want to get there amps up and running as they were delivered. I for one don't like to ask questions that have already been answered. Less pages equal less searching.
Those are my thoughts.
Is it possible to create a thread within a thread?
Eg, the original Build Thread and then a sub thread (titled something like "Tweaks, modifications, improvement build guide). That way the basic build questions are in one, but it's easy to access the other parts.
The alternative is to split the two threads, but to link to each one in the first post. Not as good perhaps and fallible for the lazy out there who can't be bothered to read from post 1, but it would work.
If we go by the thread title of this, then by the wording chosen this thread is just for build questions, or solutions - eg, How do I do x?, or I found a good way of doing Y.
I can see why the discussion of alternative components cuold be viewed as part of the build thread (it does fit into the "I found a good way of doing y" category), but I do also think it fits into a sub topic of the build thread where upgrades are discussed and questions and answers related to those upgrades are answered.
Only a thought and not any criticism to Clave or the others.
Eg, the original Build Thread and then a sub thread (titled something like "Tweaks, modifications, improvement build guide). That way the basic build questions are in one, but it's easy to access the other parts.
The alternative is to split the two threads, but to link to each one in the first post. Not as good perhaps and fallible for the lazy out there who can't be bothered to read from post 1, but it would work.
If we go by the thread title of this, then by the wording chosen this thread is just for build questions, or solutions - eg, How do I do x?, or I found a good way of doing Y.
I can see why the discussion of alternative components cuold be viewed as part of the build thread (it does fit into the "I found a good way of doing y" category), but I do also think it fits into a sub topic of the build thread where upgrades are discussed and questions and answers related to those upgrades are answered.
Only a thought and not any criticism to Clave or the others.
Here's a question for the original group build: I want to replace the two red LEDS with panel mount versions so I can use those as power on indicators. Can I use any red LED and still be able to use the original resistor values for that part of the board?
As I understand it, red LED's are pretty uniform in what they require as far as resistors are concerned, but if I changed colour (eg, blue) then I would need to review the resistor values.
I would be looking to use these LED's http://http://uk.farnell.com/sloan/194-s-0-1-8r1-r310-0/led-indicator-3mm-red/dp/1216274
As I understand it, red LED's are pretty uniform in what they require as far as resistors are concerned, but if I changed colour (eg, blue) then I would need to review the resistor values.
I would be looking to use these LED's http://http://uk.farnell.com/sloan/194-s-0-1-8r1-r310-0/led-indicator-3mm-red/dp/1216274
The LED is powered through a 24 volt source (15 volts actual given that R14 = 470 Ohms) through a 6.8K resistor. Since the supply voltage is well above the forward voltage of a LED, even a blue one, the LED current will be about the same for red or blue. Even though the forward current in the LED is fairly stable between red and blue LED's, there may be significant differences in LED efficiency. Since you plan to place the LED on the amplifier panel, tune the current (using R23) to provide the light intensity that pleases you.
These days red LED's are often used as fault indicators while green (and lately blue) shows normal operation. Color choice like intensity is a matter of personal preference.
Thanks Bill.
I was only going to go down the red route because I thought it wouldn't need the resistors to be tweaked (I couldn't figure out which resistor impacted the actual brightness of the LED), but now you've made that clear I will probably go down the blue LED route as I prefer that.
I was only going to go down the red route because I thought it wouldn't need the resistors to be tweaked (I couldn't figure out which resistor impacted the actual brightness of the LED), but now you've made that clear I will probably go down the blue LED route as I prefer that.
..... Those are my thoughts.
And that is what is encouraged.. A place where EVERYONE feels free to comment.
I do believe we can all get along... We are all here for the same reason...
I don't post much. But I have to agree with AndrewT.
...
As it looks right now I will have to go threw MANY pages of "IMO" off topic content to try to find answers to the basic questions I may have.
...
Those are my thoughts.
Hi Bender,
yours thought, as the thoght of all, are welcome.
But I've to give some numbers and reality about all this question...
Until the start of the discussion on off topic I've posted on this thread a total of 32 posts over 384 total at the time.
15 of this 32 posts were on alternate components (3.9% of total posts)
Only 4 of this 15 were reports on alternate components (1% of total posts)
The other 11 posts were answers/replies/clarification about the 4 direct reports.
Now we can discuss if these posts are or not in topic, if some confusion arose but please don't tell that this posts flooded the thread or that it contributed too much on pages growth.
On 42 pages those 15 posts are 1.5 pages...
If someone is interested in Molex connnectors for their build (Mouser codes):
538-10-11-2023 Receptacle Housings
538-08-65-0816 Phosphor Bronze/gold plated Contacts
538-22-11-2022 Pin Strip Headers (gold plated)
538-22-23-2021 Pin Strip Headers (tin)
They will be part of the final BOM for those that buyed boards only.
538-10-11-2023 Receptacle Housings
538-08-65-0816 Phosphor Bronze/gold plated Contacts
538-22-11-2022 Pin Strip Headers (gold plated)
538-22-23-2021 Pin Strip Headers (tin)
They will be part of the final BOM for those that buyed boards only.
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