Yes, I still have boards.
20€ for 2 PCBs (a stereo set)
9.5€ shipping for Europe
12€ shipping for rest of the world apart oceania
13€ shipping for oceania
5% Paypal fees on grand total.
PM me your PayPal email and shipping addres, I'll send you a PayPal invoice.
Remboursement
I've just remboursed 10€/couple via PayPal to all partecipants that didn't ordered extra boards since I've sold enough boards.
7 kits still available.
You're Welcome
Note to all:
Please notify when boards arrive
I've just remboursed 10€/couple via PayPal to all partecipants that didn't ordered extra boards since I've sold enough boards.
7 kits still available.
You're Welcome
Note to all:
Please notify when boards arrive
You're welcome
Your generosity is matched only by your dedication!! (Is that too syrupy ?)
Maybe a bit...
C12, C32 and C30 (C7 too)
After some weeks of enjoying the green FE RC boards (populated with FKP2s) today I've swapped the 3(4) caps in title with Amtrans and KP1834s.
I already knew it would have been sounded better but swapping all of them together made a not small difference: bigger soundstage, more refinement, added musicality.
I can't wait builders feedback!
After some weeks of enjoying the green FE RC boards (populated with FKP2s) today I've swapped the 3(4) caps in title with Amtrans and KP1834s.
I already knew it would have been sounded better but swapping all of them together made a not small difference: bigger soundstage, more refinement, added musicality.
I can't wait builders feedback!
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No, I've bought them on eBay and they were naked from the start.
Not more robust than others.
Finaly working on my FE again. Dario, why did you suggest I remove 3886 from my non-working board. I thought it was to take measurements that could not be had with it in place ?
I did as you said and cut the 3886 away and removed the pins individually. I'm having trouble getting the remaining solder cleared away from the thru-holes enough to insert the new IC.
I did as you said and cut the 3886 away and removed the pins individually. I'm having trouble getting the remaining solder cleared away from the thru-holes enough to insert the new IC.
This may be helpful. - Removal of Solder Using Solder Wick - YouTube
If the lead has been removed from the pad, slowly draw the wick across the excess solder, being careful to keep the wick hot as you lift it to avoid tearing off the pad. Extra liquid flux applied to the wick helps a lot. You don't need a lot of pressure once the solder starts to melt. If you have enough room and can do it safely - do the same on both sides.
I have also used some scrap lead wire by heating it (the wire) with your tip and have the excess solder attach to it while inserting through the hole. Buy some super cheap resistors from Radio Shack if you don't have any cap or resistor lead wire lying around. I keep most of my trimmings for just this purpose.
Good to hear from you again.
If the lead has been removed from the pad, slowly draw the wick across the excess solder, being careful to keep the wick hot as you lift it to avoid tearing off the pad. Extra liquid flux applied to the wick helps a lot. You don't need a lot of pressure once the solder starts to melt. If you have enough room and can do it safely - do the same on both sides.
I have also used some scrap lead wire by heating it (the wire) with your tip and have the excess solder attach to it while inserting through the hole. Buy some super cheap resistors from Radio Shack if you don't have any cap or resistor lead wire lying around. I keep most of my trimmings for just this purpose.
Good to hear from you again.
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