Exactly, voltages without LM3886 and LM318 to be sure the PS part was working as expected.
Didn't you already did that?
Fill them with solder, and use a desoldering pump to suck out the solder.
You can, eventually use the solder tip on one side and the solder pump on the other but you will need a third hand.
My brothers upgrade from My_Ref
Today I've upgraded my brother's My_Ref with RC FE modules:
It's been a very interesting day... we tested again the two C9/R10 arrangements (we both preferred the new one as per KSTR recommendation), and tested Caddock MK132 for R10.
The Caddock there sound very good possibly cleaner and more neutral but we both preferred Rikens (more musical).
Finally we tried Texas VSMP bulk foil resistors for R12.
They're for sure an improvement over the Susumu (more alive an musical) and since we bought them we mounted those.
But at a whopping 8x the price of the Susumus I'm not sure I would call it a bargain...
Also they come with no marking at all and, obviously they're directional... we could test direction mounting them on the adaptors and tried on the beta boards.
So I can suggest them only to the hard core, price no object builder and too willing to test their direction.
For builders that bought the ERO kit please note directions:
Also for builder that bought K71s note direction:
Today I've upgraded my brother's My_Ref with RC FE modules:
It's been a very interesting day... we tested again the two C9/R10 arrangements (we both preferred the new one as per KSTR recommendation), and tested Caddock MK132 for R10.
The Caddock there sound very good possibly cleaner and more neutral but we both preferred Rikens (more musical).
Finally we tried Texas VSMP bulk foil resistors for R12.
They're for sure an improvement over the Susumu (more alive an musical) and since we bought them we mounted those.
But at a whopping 8x the price of the Susumus I'm not sure I would call it a bargain...
Also they come with no marking at all and, obviously they're directional... we could test direction mounting them on the adaptors and tried on the beta boards.
So I can suggest them only to the hard core, price no object builder and too willing to test their direction.
For builders that bought the ERO kit please note directions:
Also for builder that bought K71s note direction:
Attachments
With the new C9/R10 configuration sound is cleaner, more focused, more relaxed and natural, bass tighter, soundstage wider and deeper.
Overall I felt a sense of more precision.
The original C9/R10 config seemed somewhat confused in comparison.
A nice side effect with the new config, to be further tested and confirmed, is the apparent minor impact of C9 quality.
For the information of those who haven't followed the long evolution of this design and parts selection process, I will restate here what I found regarding R10 and R12 for the MyRef C because it probably applies to the sound of the FE as well.
The "naked" Vishay VAR (Z-Foil) is an excellent, though expensive, choice for R12. I also liked Shinkoh tantalum in either R10 or R12. Vishay is a bit brighter, Shinkoh a bit sweeter. Both provide a very spacious, open sound with smooth and extended highs. One of each might be the best combination.
Caddock MK is a fine resistor, but I'm not sure that an amplifier full of them will give the most pleasing sound. Perhaps the single Riken is enough to sweeten that sufficiently.
Peace,
Tom E
The "naked" Vishay VAR (Z-Foil) is an excellent, though expensive, choice for R12. I also liked Shinkoh tantalum in either R10 or R12. Vishay is a bit brighter, Shinkoh a bit sweeter. Both provide a very spacious, open sound with smooth and extended highs. One of each might be the best combination.
Caddock MK is a fine resistor, but I'm not sure that an amplifier full of them will give the most pleasing sound. Perhaps the single Riken is enough to sweeten that sufficiently.
Peace,
Tom E
Hi Tom,
it's nice reading you again
Yes but it should be taken in account that SMD counterparts (and the FE has lots of SMDs in the signal path) could have different character.
I do agree, Texas VSMP (the more musical SMD counterpart for Vishay naked) are an excellent (but difficult) choice for R12 (and possibly for R7)
On Shinkoh I must disagree, I've tried them in R10 and R7 and found them very strange sounding and colored with a bit muddy bass.
Rikens and MK132 are much better choices for R10, IMHO.
Maybe you should try...
The correct orientation is critical, though.
You're welcome Benedetto
Thanks for reporting.
it's nice reading you again
Yes but it should be taken in account that SMD counterparts (and the FE has lots of SMDs in the signal path) could have different character.
I do agree, Texas VSMP (the more musical SMD counterpart for Vishay naked) are an excellent (but difficult) choice for R12 (and possibly for R7)
On Shinkoh I must disagree, I've tried them in R10 and R7 and found them very strange sounding and colored with a bit muddy bass.
Rikens and MK132 are much better choices for R10, IMHO.
Maybe you should try...
The correct orientation is critical, though.
My boards arrived today, with the elna and ero capacitors kit... they are stunning!!!
Thank you Dario for all your efforts!
You're welcome Benedetto
Thanks for reporting.
Mouser project sharing available?
Hi
I'm looking at ordering my parts thru Mouser. Is there a project sharing access number available (as required here: Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor that has all the parts required for the amp or is there another way of doing this?
I've looked at the google doc but can't figure out if the info to do the above is there.
Thanks
Hi
I'm looking at ordering my parts thru Mouser. Is there a project sharing access number available (as required here: Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor that has all the parts required for the amp or is there another way of doing this?
I've looked at the google doc but can't figure out if the info to do the above is there.
Thanks
have anybody tried ELNA caps in FE power supply? Found these for very reasonable price and moreover, they are quite compact that's important to me (planning to install one board on another due to the lack of space).
Also what would be the best choise for C12 (220pf) if I cannot find Amstrans? fkp2 is available though, also found KP72 film/ foil , perhaps they would be more detailed/ natural?
for C13 I would use these Russian big ones , hope they are near Audyn's performance.
Also what would be the best choise for C12 (220pf) if I cannot find Amstrans? fkp2 is available though, also found KP72 film/ foil , perhaps they would be more detailed/ natural?
for C13 I would use these Russian big ones , hope they are near Audyn's performance.
Those Elna looks strangely cheap. If you read on the product description the seller mention they are Nippon Chemicon so buy carefully.
Fkp2 has been used with good results in the previous versions. That russian capacitor for C13 has been recommended here being a good budget solution over more expensive options.
Fkp2 has been used with good results in the previous versions. That russian capacitor for C13 has been recommended here being a good budget solution over more expensive options.
Sorry, no.
But I wouldn't use anything below 40V voltage rating.
FKP2 are a good choice, never tried those KP72, Amtrans are excellent.
They're very good caps with an incredible price/performance ratio.
Audyn True Copper are better, though.
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thanks Dario!
yet another qestions regarding the components.
There is an alternative for R3 in BOM - another Caddock R that I need to order from somewhere.
Could FUKUSHIMA 0R47 5W be a replacement? Or perhaps 2 Dale 1R in parallel could be used as well?
In case it worths only to stay with these Caddocks, I guess I would get some simple ceramic wirewound 5W R then.
yet another qestions regarding the components.
There is an alternative for R3 in BOM - another Caddock R that I need to order from somewhere.
Could FUKUSHIMA 0R47 5W be a replacement? Or perhaps 2 Dale 1R in parallel could be used as well?
In case it worths only to stay with these Caddocks, I guess I would get some simple ceramic wirewound 5W R then.
You're welcome.
You'll need a 5mm LS resistor, PCB can accomodate a vertical cement resistor (specified on the 'On a budget' BOM) but I don't know if those resistor you linked would fit.
BTW the Caddock in R3 represent a significative improvement over the cement wire resisistor...
If the problem is cost you can order MP915 instead of MP930, same quality and quite lower cost.
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