My_Ref Fremen Edition - Beta build/Fine tuning

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I'll wait for blue. Are you going to be able to keep the green boards as extras?

I was going to ask the same question. Funny.
Also have you considered a release candidate construction thread. It might be a good idea for all the builders to have a place separate from this thread to discuss all the various construction questions and techniques. I would assume at least a few of us have purchased the BOM and are ready to go, so it could be of help to everyone to have a few building these at a similar pace.(I know I wont be as fast as you Dario!). Pictures are always a great instruction aid. This information could be compiled into a document that could be head as an instruction manual much like Peter Daniels commercial gainclone construction manual. Just a thought.
 
please everyone if you haven't done so change out c10 22pf caps to polystyrene. treble is cleaned up and whole lotta refinement throughout. everything is oh so velvety ;)
(...)
p.s. c34, you're next. be afraid, mr. ceramic.

You were still using ceramics for compesation caps?

In my BOM for those position there are Silver Mica caps.
 
Having had good experience with non-polar caps replacing the normal electrolytics in audio circuits, I will be ordering a batch of 220uf 6.3V CapXon NP capacitors soon. I am willing to provide a pair of these to each person that participated in the beta built and group buy for free. Please PM me if you have participated in either of these and would like a pair. Would also like to hear your impression with these whether good or bad. Personally I would recommend still using a 0.01uF FKS in parallel because this is not there audio grade cap (out of production).

Since this lot is pretty big, if anyone want's some in small quantities, I will probably be able to provide them at very good price. I will most likely be able to meet or beat the usual suppliers on the net. Please PM me if you need some as well. The only thing is that I get them about 8 weeks after I place the order. So please do not expect to get them in a hurry.

I've seen people in badcaps.net complain about the reliability of Capxon capacitors. I also had a failed computer psu about 3 years ago that was full of capxon capacitors (3 or 4 of them leaked). I dont if the quality has improved these days, but i would be sceptical using these caps.
 
I've seen people in badcaps.net complain about the reliability of Capxon capacitors. I also had a failed computer psu about 3 years ago that was full of capxon capacitors (3 or 4 of them leaked). I dont if the quality has improved these days, but i would be sceptical using these caps.
Can you point me to some direct links?

I have had some NPs used for a few years running 24hrs, have not seen any problems. The critical thing is that making sure the ripple current is well within the spec requirements, if it is close to the limit, then the life is just a few thousand hours. Not sure how expensive a PSU you were using, how long you used it for or what brand.
 
It seems all failed ones are used in power supplies. One post mentioned the KM series which actually has lower ripple current specs. In switching powers, you really want to go with caps well above the actual operating ripple power. I did not like the KM series specs when considering them for power supply. But I can see if factories try to reduce cost without considering the difference in specs, then there may be a problem.

Black Gates are out of production, no?
 
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Can you point me to some direct links?

I have had some NPs used for a few years running 24hrs, have not seen any problems. The critical thing is that making sure the ripple current is well within the spec requirements, if it is close to the limit, then the life is just a few thousand hours. Not sure how expensive a PSU you were using, how long you used it for or what brand.

If i remember correctly it was a Tagan PSU(cant remember the model) and i think it lasted for 2 years. I admit the usage of the PSU must have been hard because i used to leave the pc running 24hours for several days as i was into video encoding at that time plus the Greek summer is ruthless with equipment. The PSU im using now is a Chieftec with all its original caps removed. I used Pana FM, FC and NCC LXZ(i think...). It is on its third year of usage and hasnt failed yet. Maybe you could try a Nichicon Muse ES (nonpolar) at c9

Just saw that bcmbob gave you the link
 
Soldering on the GC FE

Dario,

Based on your experience building the GC, would you recommend soldering certain components which solder directly to the ground plane first? That way a higher wattage, higher temp iron could be used without risk of "floating" smaller components off the board.

Any other thoughts on component soldering and soldering order?

Jac
 
NP Caps

Soonsc,

Like you, I've been looking to try some alternatives, now that Black Gates are getting harder to get. In particular, the 220 uF for C9, since it is so critical for sound quality.

Earlier, I mentioned that I had been looking at alumium polymer caps and KSTR warned me to be careful of these for audio use. Most of them have large and non-linear leakage currents which detract from their audio performance. Looking at the CapXon specs, I see some pretty large leakage currents when compared to a good aluminum electrolytic.

As an alternative, let me suggest you check out the following caps. The first is an aluminum polymer cap with "new tech" and much lower (but still higher than 'lytics') quoted leakage. It's available from Mouser. I've ordered the 220 uF, 6.3V. Check the data sheet.

RR70J221MDN1 Nichicon | Mouser

The other is a niobium cap with slightly higher quoted leakage than lytics. Also available from Mouser. I've also ordered 220 uF, 6.3 V. Again, the data sheet has good info.

NOME227M006R0040 AVX | Mouser

Both would be more stable and equal or better for ESR/tan d. Of course, no one has heard what these caps sound like and that will be the acid test.

My box from Mouser just arrived today. Within a week, I plan on measuring leakage current of both the niobium and the fpcap in comparison to Black Gate STD and, hopefully, Nichicon FG.

That is the first step. Listening will come when I have my FE's built.

Jac
 
Also have you considered a release candidate construction thread. It might be a good idea for all the builders to have a place separate from this thread to discuss all the various construction questions and techniques.

Sure, in fact I should have opened it with my building posts...

I'll open it soon.

This information could be compiled into a document that could be head as an instruction manual much like Peter Daniels commercial gainclone construction manual. Just a thought.

A good though, I think I'll made a tutorial similar to the one I've did for TP boards.

You can find that old doc here.

Based on your experience building the GC, would you recommend soldering certain components which solder directly to the ground plane first? That way a higher wattage, higher temp iron could be used without risk of "floating" smaller components off the board.

I would solder first the not on the groundplane side of the component at normal soldering temperature.

Then, after rainsg temperature I would solder all the on the ground plane sides.

Any other thoughts on component soldering and soldering order?

Only the usual start from lower profile components.

In this case the lower profile ones are all the SMD parts.
 
lehmanhill,
I have a few of those aluminum polymer types, but as mentioned, the leakage current is an issue. As the normal polarized electrolytics have different leakage currents when reverse biased, I think it better to have a structure where leakage currents are more symetrical.

Of the two caps you recommened, leakage current of Nichicon has 67 uA, and the AVX is 0.02CV. This compared with the CapXon NP I quoted which as 0.03CV (3uA), I certainly cannot understand what your concern is. Would you like to elaborate?
 
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