The cost of teak was slightly more than oak and maple, but I really like the look of oiled teak.
So far I'm shocked was how nice the veneer came out. The process of gluing is stressful, contact cement is unforgiving and you only get one chance to get it right. So I used some wood strips to keep the pieces separated. Then a router trim bit to cut the excess veneer. After a light sanding the edges and corner are sharp.
I'm thinking about adding a new roundover painted baffle onto the front, then I would have a 2.25” thick front panel. I'd like to keep the veneered fronts, but willing to make the change. Maybe Zaph could comment on if I should add a new baffle or live with it?.
So far I'm shocked was how nice the veneer came out. The process of gluing is stressful, contact cement is unforgiving and you only get one chance to get it right. So I used some wood strips to keep the pieces separated. Then a router trim bit to cut the excess veneer. After a light sanding the edges and corner are sharp.
I'm thinking about adding a new roundover painted baffle onto the front, then I would have a 2.25” thick front panel. I'd like to keep the veneered fronts, but willing to make the change. Maybe Zaph could comment on if I should add a new baffle or live with it?.
I don't know how much audible effect the roundover has (I know it can be measured, but so can lots of things many of us can't hear...).
If I were to try these (and I might some day), I would try to use some solid hardwood for the round over corners, and glue them to the MDF, similar to how hardwood edges are done on laminated kitchen counters. I have a Danish teak coffee table done this way - the whole table is solid, except for the top, and the edges are solid teak 1.5" thick with a half-round glued to the 3/4" plywood teak veneer top. It has survived 15 years and two kids quite well - the top has a few stains, but it's still rock solid. Someday I will try a teak restorer on it maybe... teak is a wonderful wood. You really have to see what can be done to very weathered teak on an old boat to appreciate why it is so sought after...
btw, Great work both of you guys on these speakers, and thanks for all the pictures.
If I were to try these (and I might some day), I would try to use some solid hardwood for the round over corners, and glue them to the MDF, similar to how hardwood edges are done on laminated kitchen counters. I have a Danish teak coffee table done this way - the whole table is solid, except for the top, and the edges are solid teak 1.5" thick with a half-round glued to the 3/4" plywood teak veneer top. It has survived 15 years and two kids quite well - the top has a few stains, but it's still rock solid. Someday I will try a teak restorer on it maybe... teak is a wonderful wood. You really have to see what can be done to very weathered teak on an old boat to appreciate why it is so sought after...
btw, Great work both of you guys on these speakers, and thanks for all the pictures.
The hardest part of speaker building for me is woodworking...even if I like it ! I won't do what you explain, never ! It's already hard enough to route and precisely cut everything, from the recess to the round over, to avoid adding that much complexity ! Veneering the top and both sides will be enough for me. Rustoleum spray paint is now my best friend, even if the results so far are not exactly what I'd wished at first !
I've already seen a couple of finished speaker with such solid wood round over and I have to say that I haven't been impressed by the overall look of the enclosure. I prefer a black baffle with a wood veneer. It's probably a matter of taste, though.
Dino
I admit it adds to the complexity, and whether it is worth it probably depends on how you plan to finish the fronts, as there isn't much point in all the effort if it won't be visible, or if a simpler route makes more sense. If going with a black baffle and no cloth covers, the method you chose is probably the best (and simplest).
I'm accustomed to spending lots of time fiddling with woodworking (ie: two weeks to build my staircase)... but I should probably finish the house before I start another project. ;-)
I'm accustomed to spending lots of time fiddling with woodworking (ie: two weeks to build my staircase)... but I should probably finish the house before I start another project. ;-)
Gollum said:
...and finish this one too ! It's my next project. If I'm lucky, there will be no woodworking at all...
Dino
I should update that... it's kind of stalled. I've tried everything I've read here to get rid of the hum with no success, so it's now a pile of parts no my bench. I just don't have time or energy right now to tackle it again. :-(
Here's a little update on my BAMTM progress.
The teak veneer came out fantastic and really looks amazing with the teak oil finish.
The teak veneer came out fantastic and really looks amazing with the teak oil finish.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It's just the perspective, once mounted with speaker gasket tape the drivers fit nice and flush.
Since this a sealed enclosure, would using a combination of 1” Sonic Barrier for the walls and Acosta-Stuff be recommended?
The veneer was bought locally NW of Chicago at Owl Hardwood http://www.owlhardwood.com. I think you can find sheets at many different high-end lumber stores or online. It helps to see the quality of the veneer before you buy. The nice thing about teak is the tight straight grain.
Well back to work on the crossover...
Since this a sealed enclosure, would using a combination of 1” Sonic Barrier for the walls and Acosta-Stuff be recommended?
The veneer was bought locally NW of Chicago at Owl Hardwood http://www.owlhardwood.com. I think you can find sheets at many different high-end lumber stores or online. It helps to see the quality of the veneer before you buy. The nice thing about teak is the tight straight grain.
Well back to work on the crossover...
As per Zaph :
I understand you have to stuff liberally , but I'm not sure if you need to damp all sides though.
About the veneer, all you have done is to add a teak oil finish ? Any color in it ?! It turns out to a beautiful reddish wood... far away from the unfinished one ! Any picture of the product used ?
Don't stress too much with the crossover. I don't think it can be simpler than that ! You've already done the toughest part of you speaker : the enclosure !
Dino
I understand you have to stuff liberally , but I'm not sure if you need to damp all sides though.
About the veneer, all you have done is to add a teak oil finish ? Any color in it ?! It turns out to a beautiful reddish wood... far away from the unfinished one ! Any picture of the product used ?
Don't stress too much with the crossover. I don't think it can be simpler than that ! You've already done the toughest part of you speaker : the enclosure !
Dino
It's WATCO Teak Oil Finish, from Home Depot. I'm not sure what's in the stuff, but it has a light transparent yellow color, looks like vegetable oil. It's by by far the easiest finish I've tried including spray paint.
1. Flood surface using brush or cloth, applying additional finish to areas that absorb all of the liquid.
2. After 30 minutes, reapply liberal amount of finish.
3. After an additional 15 minutes penetration, wipe wood completely dry. Ready for use in 8-10 hours.
The next day they didn't have a sheen or oily surface. Done, it's that easy...
1. Flood surface using brush or cloth, applying additional finish to areas that absorb all of the liquid.
2. After 30 minutes, reapply liberal amount of finish.
3. After an additional 15 minutes penetration, wipe wood completely dry. Ready for use in 8-10 hours.
The next day they didn't have a sheen or oily surface. Done, it's that easy...
Here's a quick update on my BAMTMs.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
crypt0wind,
as Audiobomber said, have you only shifted left and right speaker or you have built two right speaker.... ? You picture is too dark to see if the right speaker has the tweeter on the outside too.
chipco3434,
As you I think this pair of speaker rocks ! I'm in no way an audiophile nor a music freak, and it's by far the best speakers I've ever heard. For me too it's 100% HiFi, even if there is mistakes here and there that could maybe impact on overall sound quality.
Where I don't agree with you though is when you say that these speakers make good HT or bookshelf speakers. I've built the 2 cuft vented version of this design and I have to say that there is plenty of bass coming out of it. Maybe the sealed 1 cuft doesn't have the depth of a vented floorstander, but what I've done is clearly not a bookshelf not a HT speaker. You don't need a sub with the floorstander if you listen to music. I'm pretty sure 5 or 6 of these, without a subwoofer, can match many entry-level HT with a sub.
Dino
as Audiobomber said, have you only shifted left and right speaker or you have built two right speaker.... ?
You picture is too dark to see if the right speaker has the tweeter on the outside too.chipco3434,
As you I think this pair of speaker rocks ! I'm in no way an audiophile nor a music freak, and it's by far the best speakers I've ever heard. For me too it's 100% HiFi, even if there is mistakes here and there that could maybe impact on overall sound quality.
Where I don't agree with you though is when you say that these speakers make good HT or bookshelf speakers. I've built the 2 cuft vented version of this design and I have to say that there is plenty of bass coming out of it. Maybe the sealed 1 cuft doesn't have the depth of a vented floorstander, but what I've done is clearly not a bookshelf not a HT speaker. You don't need a sub with the floorstander if you listen to music. I'm pretty sure 5 or 6 of these, without a subwoofer, can match many entry-level HT with a sub.
Dino
The photo was just after I test mounted the drivers and crossover. I just flipped it over and now it's correct for the left. The interior doesn't have damping and the drivers have only been mounted with a few screws. I just wanted to test them.
This BAMTM was a test to see if I like the small sealed or build a pair of vented floorstander for L & R and use the current one for the center. The other black speaker in the photo is a 20 year old 2 way Polk
I was aware that my old Denon receiver 25w-30w @ 8 ohm wasn't going to have the power to driver the BAMTMs. So I have a Onkyo 604 on the way. That should make a difference.
This BAMTM was a test to see if I like the small sealed or build a pair of vented floorstander for L & R and use the current one for the center. The other black speaker in the photo is a 20 year old 2 way Polk
I was aware that my old Denon receiver 25w-30w @ 8 ohm wasn't going to have the power to driver the BAMTMs. So I have a Onkyo 604 on the way. That should make a difference.
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