Hello Goran,
I understand that using simply regs is safe and convenient.
I did use them a lot (low noise motorola, even have some with 24k gold), but I gave a try these series led reg,since it was simply to build and the parts were very cheap.
I did run over several pages from 300 to 340, but I couldn't fined the schematic. Its will be where the 1541 mk4 to mk6.
Actually what I posted before is the same thing.
U can try the 3-stepped rectificaton, that does not take much time to try.
In the main time I took out the whole thing. I tested the voltage and all seems to be right.
I can tell I have never heard this kind of clear and very life sounding CD player before.
Maybe at my friend he got some nice stuff hooked up with his Wilson Puppy. But those system coast more then my house, so its out of my reference.
I heard many new instruments listen some classical music, before I only heard a little something in the background. I knew that there is something but it was not clear.
When the bass drum got hit, I here the skin get hit,then the bum coming. Every instruments just sound much better.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ding-ultimate-nos-dac-using-tda1541a-350.html
From ECdesigns:
Quote:
Yes, Thanks John, for this "Stepped Rectifier Network" design - such a simple thing that works like a charm!
I already (had to) use them in the DAC power supply. After hearing the impact on power amplifier supply, I probably never use a conventional rectifier in these kind of circuits again.
I added an oscillogram to illustrate the effect of a 3-stage stepped rectifier (low, high, full charge current). The voltage is measured across two inches of thin copper wire that is placed between transformer and rectifier.
First picture shows conventional rectifier, setting 10mV/div.
It shows large peak charge current (positive pulse) and a negative pulse caused by transformer back emf.
The second picture shows a 3-stage stepped rectifier added to the same circuit. Both peak charge current and transformer back emf are now reduced, setting 10mV/div.
The stepped rectifier tackles rectifier switching noise right at the source, by doing so it also reduces EMI. Other nice side effect is that the smoothing caps now run cooler so their service life is increased.
From ECdesigns:
Quote:
Yes, Thanks John, for this "Stepped Rectifier Network" design - such a simple thing that works like a charm!
I already (had to) use them in the DAC power supply. After hearing the impact on power amplifier supply, I probably never use a conventional rectifier in these kind of circuits again.
I added an oscillogram to illustrate the effect of a 3-stage stepped rectifier (low, high, full charge current). The voltage is measured across two inches of thin copper wire that is placed between transformer and rectifier.
First picture shows conventional rectifier, setting 10mV/div.
It shows large peak charge current (positive pulse) and a negative pulse caused by transformer back emf.
The second picture shows a 3-stage stepped rectifier added to the same circuit. Both peak charge current and transformer back emf are now reduced, setting 10mV/div.
The stepped rectifier tackles rectifier switching noise right at the source, by doing so it also reduces EMI. Other nice side effect is that the smoothing caps now run cooler so their service life is increased.
Attachments
I did not tried separately, so its hard to tell. I know when I did a sep. 78xx in my Pioneer 707 and Philips 604 (tda1543).
All sounded better, but never right. If you know what I mean.
The 3 stepped rectification needed for best performance.
As you can see the spikes reduced dramaticly before the regs.
Not even good caps can smooth them out, they are always on the line.
After the 3 stepped you can use ordinary regs since they got clean voltage.
Just try it out. If you can get the darlingtons too.
Its very simple 10 minutes job.
And then you can tell me what you have achieved.
Consider that I had only the +5v that worked!!!
Yesterday I got tired from changing CD-s. I just cannot stop listening music.
PS: Tonight I will collect more schematic and explanations and I will send it all via email.
Thanks Danico, in 10 days im going to my motherland, i have an intention to bring some tubes and phono. For sure i will build the PS what you suggested after ill back. BTW im still not satisfied with sound of my CD player, seems i will never be satisfied 
, its just how i am. I hope phono will gave me more satisfaction.
Please, collect all informations what you can get about PS.
Its my pleasure talking to you Danico. I hope will stay in contact. Soon ill traveling across your beautiful country, maybe ill visit Budapest, and im so happy about.
All the best
Goran
, its just how i am. I hope phono will gave me more satisfaction.Please, collect all informations what you can get about PS.
Its my pleasure talking to you Danico. I hope will stay in contact. Soon ill traveling across your beautiful country, maybe ill visit Budapest, and im so happy about.
All the best
Goran
Your welcome Goran.
I enjoyed our talking,too.
I'm sure a good phono cannot be beaten by a cd player.
I think we cant be satisfied enough, always need some change for better sound.
I'm glad to hear you will travel trough Budapest.
I'll keep in touch and send you the infos.
I'm afraid I cannot do more change on the cd.
I need to go to Amsterdam soon. But that is a different story.
Best regards
Bardos
I enjoyed our talking,too.
I'm sure a good phono cannot be beaten by a cd player.
I think we cant be satisfied enough, always need some change for better sound.
I'm glad to hear you will travel trough Budapest.
I'll keep in touch and send you the infos.
I'm afraid I cannot do more change on the cd.
I need to go to Amsterdam soon. But that is a different story.
Best regards
Bardos
Bardos, my main problem are the speakers, i have cheap, comercial Wharfedale Diamond 10.4, i would like to build something better in the future. So, you will understand that all possible improvement i could make on CD players wouldnt be noticable on my speakers. Its frustrating.
I get some informations from the producers about slopes and sensitivity of each driver of Diamond 10.4, maybe ill build active system just to see if there will be some improvement.
Im wishing you nice time in Amsterdam.
I would like to keep the contact with you in future.
Goran
I get some informations from the producers about slopes and sensitivity of each driver of Diamond 10.4, maybe ill build active system just to see if there will be some improvement.
Im wishing you nice time in Amsterdam.
I would like to keep the contact with you in future.
Goran
Goran, I think you better get rid off the speakers first.
My friend has Wharfedale speakers too. They sound terrible, although they are not the diamond series,but cheaper ones.
Dont waste time and energy on them. There are many dissent old speakers to choose for a little money.
Sonus Faber Concertino is a good start. Dont let the size foul you.
they go around 400 Euro.
JMLab, Epos ES14 is good too.
I'd like to keep in contact too.
But I'm sure I wont have time and money for collecting Hifis for a while.
I hope I can save up for a 1541mk6 board soon that would be a good start. Use it with my iphone.)
I saw these philips cd303 for only 250 Euro, in perfect shape. I wish I could buy it.
And my friend toys.
Bardos
My friend has Wharfedale speakers too. They sound terrible, although they are not the diamond series,but cheaper ones.
Dont waste time and energy on them. There are many dissent old speakers to choose for a little money.
Sonus Faber Concertino is a good start. Dont let the size foul you.
they go around 400 Euro.
JMLab, Epos ES14 is good too.
I'd like to keep in contact too.
But I'm sure I wont have time and money for collecting Hifis for a while.
I hope I can save up for a 1541mk6 board soon that would be a good start. Use it with my iphone.
)I saw these philips cd303 for only 250 Euro, in perfect shape. I wish I could buy it.
And my friend toys.
Bardos
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I agree Bardos about my speakers, i bought them 450Euro when i came to live in Poland. It was more because i didnt had anything to listen to. I know they are crap, anyway ill keep them for home cinema. My intention is to buy some nice drivers and build good enclosure for them. For now its just me dream, i have to pay for nanny, have to pay for flat i live in....to much money for other things also. As you said, i also cant save extra money for something better at the moment. But i hope things will change and it will be better in the future. The other thing is.. i feel a challenge to get the maximum from these drivers of Diamond. Im sure an active setup will do some improvement, at least ill have what to do till i buy good drivers..or even some nice kit.
People from Wharfedale were so nice to tell me the details of each drivers. Bass-86dB, middle 87dB and twitter 90dB. Slopes are 6dB bass to middle and 12 dB middle to twitter. I already build an active crossover. For tweeters i would use SE design Power Follower, maybe for mids also, for basses i have an old Marantz PM44SE which is modified and sounds really good. I just need to setup the gains of each amp. With SE topology i have the problem cos there is no gain. I also builded an tube pream gain stage for one of the power follower's. Now i need to bring more tubes and trafo's from Macedonia to finish the project. SE topology works only in class A and i need two more trafo's for the amp for middle drivers. The both SE amps are mono block..so i have them four .Its very expencive project, but its almost finished. When Ill get better speakers it will sound much better. Anyway i have to be satisfied with what i have at the moment.
Bardos, I dont know if you are familiar with SE designs. I have this amp about 5 years and i still cant find anything what sounds more natural and detailed. The bad thing is its too expencive to build one. If you have time look at thread "NO NFB preamplifier" designed by Vladimir. He is very nice guy and will answer to all of your questions in case you will be interested about.
My Follower is designed by Andrea Ciuffoli and tube preamp i have is also his design. Im very satisfied with the sound, but as i said i dont have apropriate speakers to get the maximum from it.
I have tried many push-pull designs, but non of them sounds like PF99. I highly recomend you to build this setup and to enjoy in detailed, transparent, and in one word..there is more music with SE Class A topology.
Best regards
Goran
People from Wharfedale were so nice to tell me the details of each drivers. Bass-86dB, middle 87dB and twitter 90dB. Slopes are 6dB bass to middle and 12 dB middle to twitter. I already build an active crossover. For tweeters i would use SE design Power Follower, maybe for mids also, for basses i have an old Marantz PM44SE which is modified and sounds really good. I just need to setup the gains of each amp. With SE topology i have the problem cos there is no gain. I also builded an tube pream gain stage for one of the power follower's. Now i need to bring more tubes and trafo's from Macedonia to finish the project. SE topology works only in class A and i need two more trafo's for the amp for middle drivers. The both SE amps are mono block..so i have them four .Its very expencive project, but its almost finished. When Ill get better speakers it will sound much better. Anyway i have to be satisfied with what i have at the moment.
Bardos, I dont know if you are familiar with SE designs. I have this amp about 5 years and i still cant find anything what sounds more natural and detailed. The bad thing is its too expencive to build one. If you have time look at thread "NO NFB preamplifier" designed by Vladimir. He is very nice guy and will answer to all of your questions in case you will be interested about.
My Follower is designed by Andrea Ciuffoli and tube preamp i have is also his design. Im very satisfied with the sound, but as i said i dont have apropriate speakers to get the maximum from it.
I have tried many push-pull designs, but non of them sounds like PF99. I highly recomend you to build this setup and to enjoy in detailed, transparent, and in one word..there is more music with SE Class A topology.
Best regards
Goran
Hey Goran, I totally understand your concerns. I still have Ciuffoli's Dac 2 in my closet waiting to get build. I'm familiar with the SE topology but my knowledge about electronics is basicly zero. )
I need to read a lot to try to understand more about amp designs.
As for your speakers I would just save up the money that you would spent on parts to improve them a little. (parts can be costly if you want quality). Thats why I mentioned that old school speakers goes for cheap now. You can get a 5-6000 Euro speakers under 1000 Euro.
Or search for old Alnico speakers from old radios.
I know I like to improve my stuff too, but there is always a limit. Usually its in the money supply)
I could get a Musical Fidelity F15 Class A for 700 Euro the orig. price was 6500 Euro. If I want to build something like that the 2 cooling boards would cost more.
I just hoping I can get better in Amsterdam and I dont need to miss Hifi so long.
Best regards
Bardos
)I need to read a lot to try to understand more about amp designs.
As for your speakers I would just save up the money that you would spent on parts to improve them a little. (parts can be costly if you want quality). Thats why I mentioned that old school speakers goes for cheap now. You can get a 5-6000 Euro speakers under 1000 Euro.
Or search for old Alnico speakers from old radios.
I know I like to improve my stuff too, but there is always a limit. Usually its in the money supply
)I could get a Musical Fidelity F15 Class A for 700 Euro the orig. price was 6500 Euro. If I want to build something like that the 2 cooling boards would cost more.
I just hoping I can get better in Amsterdam and I dont need to miss Hifi so long.
Best regards
Bardos
Attachments
Vintage speakers that used in very old radios or loudspeakers from the 60-70's. Seas,Tesla, Jensen, Saba,Altec Lansing, Marantz,etc....
They have 100db sensitivity, papercone.
Actually they are quiet expensive, but sometimes can be fund cheaper.
alnico speaker - Google Search
Jensen Vintage Alnico Speakers
Here you can find more infos:
Endorphine from Kingston Kitchen
Project 14 audio-note E type clone speakers
At the bottom P12 to P25 you can see some vintage speakers.
Speaker projects DIY hobby
About Wharfedale Diamond 10.4 i can tell you they are not so bad for the price, I like them most because the cut-over frequency for bass - 150Hz, midd - 150Hz - 3800 Hz, and tweeter above 3800 Hz. That region from 150Hz to 3800Hz is presented by one driver wich i like a lot, extremly clean mids and natural sound in that region. Bass i very tight and deep also. Im surprised about quality of the cabinets, they are really good and very stron so i cant hear coloration when im cnocking the enclosure. Also i think they need more powerfull amp, in fact my SE Follower - 20Watts cant drive them well. Anyway the sound is not so bad. I have also B&W 602 S3, more efficient but highs dominates above all audio spectrum. In Diamond's highs are perfect matched with the rest of audio spectrum. Of course we are talking about low-cost comercial speakers which cant produce high-end sound.
Diamond's i have 1m far from rear walls and 2m from side walls, very deep imageing, but luck of wide scene when im using Marantz PM44SE, with PF 99 the scene is deeper and wider and the chanell separation is excellent. Also I have to admit that Diamond's sounds kind of sterille and not so interesting. I will try active approach to see if that will improve things.
About my CD40, I did all mods i was abble to do. Now im waiting for PS data from you, and will try to find out whats wrong with drop of voltage you described. Also i will be gratefull if you share with me impressions of NOS mode.
Take care Bardos
Goran
Diamond's i have 1m far from rear walls and 2m from side walls, very deep imageing, but luck of wide scene when im using Marantz PM44SE, with PF 99 the scene is deeper and wider and the chanell separation is excellent. Also I have to admit that Diamond's sounds kind of sterille and not so interesting. I will try active approach to see if that will improve things.
About my CD40, I did all mods i was abble to do. Now im waiting for PS data from you, and will try to find out whats wrong with drop of voltage you described. Also i will be gratefull if you share with me impressions of NOS mode.
Take care Bardos
Goran
As the active crossover can be really good if build well.
I believe in minimalist concept, so for me is out of question.
As for your speaker, dont get me wrong. I have checked my friend's Warfhy's are from the bottom model (Modus).
They are poorly made, with very cheap speakers. Speakers are not even sinked in the box. And got some plastic cover on the front.
As for technical data. Its not everything.
Some speakers have that "plus" and they are just sounds way better then others. Maybe that's why I prefer oldies speakers
and they had prove themself. they have good reference.
Try to find the Epos es14 for example. Someone who owns them they keep them for a long time. They designed well, the speakers manufactured exactly for that box. Only one caps for the highs. simply, natural sounding and nice.
Or at Audio Note they match every speakers and parts for the pair. with very good speakers installed.
There is a huge difference between commercial and Hi-End.
Just look at this system, they can be bought for about a 1000 Euro and the Epos around 4-500 Euro.
They cannot be compared to any commercial brand.
Yesterday I went for buying a loudspeaker to my friend at the shop they hooked up something that coast around 10.000 Euro, it sounded good, but nowhere near my system.
For the realistic and natural sound the 1541 cannot be beaten.
Anyway I organise the data and send it to you today.
Take care
Bardos
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Hi Bardos,
The problem with older second hand speakers is ..we dont know their history, maybe they were repaired, im really affraid to buy second hand speakers.
The fact is, in this moment im "not interested" to change speakers for better ones, because as i said i have many other things to buy first, as im starting my new life in Poland. When ill be ready for buing good drivers, or kit, or even old speakers i would like to do it right, no matter of price.
Tell me about photos u attached, its your setup?
Hi Goran,
Unfortunetly none off them my setup. The Accuphase was sold by my friend for less then 1000 Eu. The Epos photos stolen from the net. But I almost bought one a couple months ago, just someone who would take my Sonus Faber stepped back, so I just dont wanted 2 speakers sitting at home.
My setup was put up erlier next to the photo of the Wilson Puppy If you look at the background you can see the Accuphase amps.
I bought my stuff 20 years ago. Musical Fidelity E10, Sonus Faber Concertino and Pio PDS707. Nothing ordinary the amp cost about 100 Eu now, but I wouldn't change it to a modern 1000 Eu amp that for sure.
You cant go wrong with a 15-20 years old speaker or amp. Even from the 60's is better. You can find some real good stuff on a junkyard or for sale very cheap. like a 60-100 Euro is not a big money to try something different.
I just getting there to send you an email.
Take care
Bardos
Unfortunetly none off them my setup. The Accuphase was sold by my friend for less then 1000 Eu. The Epos photos stolen from the net. But I almost bought one a couple months ago, just someone who would take my Sonus Faber stepped back, so I just dont wanted 2 speakers sitting at home.
My setup was put up erlier next to the photo of the Wilson Puppy If you look at the background you can see the Accuphase amps.
I bought my stuff 20 years ago. Musical Fidelity E10, Sonus Faber Concertino and Pio PDS707. Nothing ordinary the amp cost about 100 Eu now, but I wouldn't change it to a modern 1000 Eu amp that for sure.
You cant go wrong with a 15-20 years old speaker or amp. Even from the 60's is better. You can find some real good stuff on a junkyard or for sale very cheap. like a 60-100 Euro is not a big money to try something different.
I just getting there to send you an email.
Take care
Bardos
Bardos, im getting more interested about those old speakers, (my polish wife will kill me )
I will take a look at your previous posts, when ill get home after work.
Maybe it will be best to start building your PS and see how it will match with my TDA1541, and im so interested about dropping voltage problem.
Send me data, ill build it fast and we will see.
You are not interested to build some AMP? As i see you like to use the comercial stuff. Sorry if im wrong
Best regards
Goran
)I will take a look at your previous posts, when ill get home after work.
Maybe it will be best to start building your PS and see how it will match with my TDA1541, and im so interested about dropping voltage problem.
Send me data, ill build it fast and we will see.
You are not interested to build some AMP? As i see you like to use the comercial stuff. Sorry if im wrong
Best regards
Goran
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Bardos, im getting more interested about those old speakers, (my polish wife will kill me
I will take a look at your previous posts, when ill get home after work.
Maybe it will be best to start building your PS and see how it will match with my TDA1541, and im so interested about dropping voltage problem.
Send me data, ill build it fast and we will see.
You are not interested to build some AMP? As i see you like to use the comercial stuff. Sorry if im wrong
Best regards
Goran
Allright then. Lets rock.
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