I did China assembly of the first batch of 21st Century Maida Regulator. That one is SMT-only assembly. The DIY builder solders the rest. This approach makes sense as the parts soldered by the DIYer are custom to each build.
On my recent batch of 21st Century Maida, I went with PCB manufacturing in Ontario, Canada and assembly in Calgary. The cost was higher than the China assembly, but the end product also of higher quality. My customers have indicated that they're willing to pay more for circuits produced in Canada, so the slightly higher cost is entirely justified.
Canadian manufacturing of PCBs is more expensive than China manufacturing, but I also get a better product. All my boards made in Canada are gold plated and electrically tested by the manufacturer. That way I know that the boards are good before I send them off to assembly. With the 4-layer boards that means a lot of peace of mind.
I've found a local assembly facility that specializes in low-volume orders. "Low" is probably 50-100. Certainly less than 500. They've been awesome to work with. I know I get good genuine parts, because I order them from Mouser and deliver them with the boards to the assembly folks. I love working with those guys. They do amazing work and are more than willing to provide feedback on how I can make my assemblies more robust and less expensive to assemble.
When I had the Modulus-186 and -286 assembled, I delivered a box of parts from Mouser, hardware from a vendor in Nova Scotia, and circuit boards from Ontario. My assembly folks in Calgary did the rest. Worth every penny.
The next batch of Power-86 will be manufactured in Ontario, Canada and will be gold plated and electrically tested. Same for the Modulus-86 when my current stock runs out.
Tom
On my recent batch of 21st Century Maida, I went with PCB manufacturing in Ontario, Canada and assembly in Calgary. The cost was higher than the China assembly, but the end product also of higher quality. My customers have indicated that they're willing to pay more for circuits produced in Canada, so the slightly higher cost is entirely justified.
Canadian manufacturing of PCBs is more expensive than China manufacturing, but I also get a better product. All my boards made in Canada are gold plated and electrically tested by the manufacturer. That way I know that the boards are good before I send them off to assembly. With the 4-layer boards that means a lot of peace of mind.
I've found a local assembly facility that specializes in low-volume orders. "Low" is probably 50-100. Certainly less than 500. They've been awesome to work with. I know I get good genuine parts, because I order them from Mouser and deliver them with the boards to the assembly folks. I love working with those guys. They do amazing work and are more than willing to provide feedback on how I can make my assemblies more robust and less expensive to assemble.
When I had the Modulus-186 and -286 assembled, I delivered a box of parts from Mouser, hardware from a vendor in Nova Scotia, and circuit boards from Ontario. My assembly folks in Calgary did the rest. Worth every penny.
The next batch of Power-86 will be manufactured in Ontario, Canada and will be gold plated and electrically tested. Same for the Modulus-86 when my current stock runs out.
Tom
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'Killing DIY' is all relative, if we take a page from digital audio products there are quite a few niche vendors there who have made a DIY platform out of pre-assembled components, with enough customers engrossed by this.
Sure no longer is it a heated battlefield fought with miniature jousts but nonetheless...
Tom, great to hear that you have a good production setup and relationship with your vendors, esp managing to find local vendors to do your smaller sized builds.
I asked Mouser, if it was possible to print the ref des on the label, be able to up load it to my project, so they can do the kitting, essentially. We shall see.
I asked Mouser, if it was possible to print the ref des on the label, be able to up load it to my project, so they can do the kitting, essentially. We shall see.
Exactly. That's another reason why I'm entertaining the fully assembled modules and fully assembled PCBs. I may lose some of the more hardcore DIYers, but will keep those who value performance over soldering, and gain those who are more mechanically than electrically inclined. I haven't done the market analysis in detail, but I strongly suspect the proportion of the world's population that can turn a screwdriver is quite a bit larger than the proportion of the world's population that can solder SMD components successfully. There's likely considerable overlap between the two populations as well.
They can ... sort of. There's a "customer reference" field that's used if you have your own part numbers. You could use that for the component designator. Unfortunately, you can only assign one "customer reference" to each Mouser P/N, so if you use the same resistor in many circuits, it'll have to be R1 in all the circuits. Yeah. Not useful.
Speaking of kiting. You can get Digikey to deliver kits. I.e. Digikey delivers multiple bags, each containing the parts for one board. They do charge extra for this, but if you're considering delivering parts with your boards, it's certainly an attractive option.
Tom
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Dunno man, maybe if you show me the Venn diagram...I haven't done the market analysis in detail, but I strongly suspect the proportion of the world's population that can turn a screwdriver is quite a bit larger than the proportion of the world's population that can solder SMD components successfully. There's likely considerable overlap between the two populations as well.
I am using the Mouser customer reference for the ref des now, it sort of works, they do allow for multiple customer PN for the same Mouser PN, it is a PITA, since in many instances you use the same part for multiple assemblies. I asked for it to auto loaded so I do not have to hand edit each and every one. It is like I am the only guy who understands some simple process issues that save time/money.
I do not use Digi-key very much, only if the part is BO at Mouser or Mouser does not stock that part. I spoke with them too, they are even worse off imo.
I sell blank pcb's and I give a link to a Mouser shopping cart. I asked Digi-key if I could do the same, they say they can not do it. I have to down load the BOM, send to the customer, they have to upload the bom to a shopping cart, too much BS. Okay, I say, I will continue have the customers buy all the parts from Mouser, if you do not understand my issue with your service, less work for me
I do not use Digi-key very much, only if the part is BO at Mouser or Mouser does not stock that part. I spoke with them too, they are even worse off imo.
I sell blank pcb's and I give a link to a Mouser shopping cart. I asked Digi-key if I could do the same, they say they can not do it. I have to down load the BOM, send to the customer, they have to upload the bom to a shopping cart, too much BS. Okay, I say, I will continue have the customers buy all the parts from Mouser, if you do not understand my issue with your service, less work for me
Yes that is an option, I can not remember if I tried the spreadsheet upload method. I usually do not upload a spreadsheet, I use the BOM upload tool, easy for me to spit out
part_number|qty. I did talk to Mouser support, I do not recall them saying to use the spreadsheet upload tool to get the customer part # into the BOM. I think he said they make a database with what you enter from your BOM, they keep track of the x-references. allow multiple customer PN's for a Mouser PN.
I am back in Digi-key, I see that I can add reference designators in my BOM, I would have to try to format, upload a new BOM to Digi-key to see if I can input a BOM with ref des, more stuff to try out. Also have to order the BOM to see if the ref des gets printed out on the labels, which is what we want for a kit.
part_number|qty. I did talk to Mouser support, I do not recall them saying to use the spreadsheet upload tool to get the customer part # into the BOM. I think he said they make a database with what you enter from your BOM, they keep track of the x-references. allow multiple customer PN's for a Mouser PN.
I am back in Digi-key, I see that I can add reference designators in my BOM, I would have to try to format, upload a new BOM to Digi-key to see if I can input a BOM with ref des, more stuff to try out. Also have to order the BOM to see if the ref des gets printed out on the labels, which is what we want for a kit.
I enter the Mouser (and Digikey) part numbers as a property of each part in the schematic. I then have the schematic tool generate the BOM, which I load into Excel and massage before publishing (and uploading to Mouser). Only drawback is that every BOM change (including changing, say, one brand of 100 nF cap to another brand of 100 nF cap) ideally should be tracked all the way back to the schematic.
Tom
Tom
I do the same sort of way. When i build a part i usually build it with a number of properties, 2 different MPN's and 2 different distributor PN, etc, so I can export/format for what is required.
I did ask Mouser if they could have a way to add second sources in the BOM manager. Right now I just add it to the notes for that component, so I have it available in the BOM for a quick replacement.
I am not big enough to have my own PN and a database, the eCAD parts library is my database, it adds work, lots of time is taken up building libraries in prep of design entry. One man show op.
I did ask Mouser if they could have a way to add second sources in the BOM manager. Right now I just add it to the notes for that component, so I have it available in the BOM for a quick replacement.
I am not big enough to have my own PN and a database, the eCAD parts library is my database, it adds work, lots of time is taken up building libraries in prep of design entry. One man show op.
Just replaced the Allo stepped attenuator with an Alps RK27 in my Mod86 as the Allo caused the left channel to crack and fade sometimes, which gave me a scare initially as I feared speaker or amp issues.
Alps sounds perfect, Allo is going back for warranty. After almost a year, still very happy with the Mod86, sounds still very nice but keep thinking about rebuilding the speakers....
Decisions, decisions....
Alps sounds perfect, Allo is going back for warranty. After almost a year, still very happy with the Mod86, sounds still very nice but keep thinking about rebuilding the speakers....
Decisions, decisions....
Interesting failure mode for an attenuator.
Very cool. I'm glad you like the MOD86. For the speakers, you can always build a pair of Linkwitz LX521.4 ... and the ten channels of Modulus amps that go with it. Not that I'm biased or have ulterior motives or anything.
Tom
Today I fully finished my Mod86 build. I decided to put the noisy mains transformer in a separate box and feed the low voltage AC into the box via a high quality secure connector. The sound quality is very good indeed. I run a HiFi retail business and have a wide range of amplifiers to listen to at various prices, I make Tom’s amps occasionally for the fun. I can say that this amp does everything you want an amp to do, highly detailed, great bass, great timing, delightfully musical and natural on all genres. I think you would need to spend around £4000 plus to match this sound quality for an equivalent amp from a leading supplier.
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Finally. After assembling and testing rev2.1 boards in August (they had been purchased by a friend some time earlier) last year, and playing since in a "temporary" lashup, the pair of Modulus-86s have a proper home of metal.
After quite a bit of searching online I realised I had a donor chassis hiding in the shed.
It started out life as a pro-sound power amp, Sony badge but a contact manufacture job from elsewhere in Japan (the electronics looked Onkyo-ish). No, I would never break up a classic Sony ES.
It was heatsinked for 8 TO-3 devices in each of two channels, so I figured the heatsinks just might be adquate
The chassis was stripped of electronics, completely disassembled, each part cleaned, and some meccano later, reassembly.
For mounting the Modulus-86 boards, a piece of 3mm aluminium was fitting where the PCB used be at rear of chassis.
A Hammond toroid and the Power-86 easily fitted into front section.
The original amplifier also supplied a power switch with LED bracket, speaker terminals, mains inlet and fuseholder. New XLR sockets were fitted though, the old ones were corroded from storage.
After front panel decals removed, and the top cover reversed to hide screen printing, who would know what it was.
Wiring was straighforward, no audiophoolery, just 10AWG equipment wire for the big stuff, rest of wiring as reqd for mains and signal hookups.
No issues following cold checks, and tested both channels into dummy load, a little over 37 watts/channel measured (8 ohms), 42 watts one channel driven.
Now that the modules are in a proper grounded chassis, they really are QUIET.
I was impressed last year when I first got them working "bare-bones" on the shelf, couldn't take them off and play another amp until I needed to fit them in the chassis.
Very fine work Tom, thank you again for all your hard work, they just play, blamelessly, on 96dB/1watt horns, that is special around here.
After quite a bit of searching online I realised I had a donor chassis hiding in the shed.
It started out life as a pro-sound power amp, Sony badge but a contact manufacture job from elsewhere in Japan (the electronics looked Onkyo-ish). No, I would never break up a classic Sony ES.
It was heatsinked for 8 TO-3 devices in each of two channels, so I figured the heatsinks just might be adquate
The chassis was stripped of electronics, completely disassembled, each part cleaned, and some meccano later, reassembly.
For mounting the Modulus-86 boards, a piece of 3mm aluminium was fitting where the PCB used be at rear of chassis.
A Hammond toroid and the Power-86 easily fitted into front section.
The original amplifier also supplied a power switch with LED bracket, speaker terminals, mains inlet and fuseholder. New XLR sockets were fitted though, the old ones were corroded from storage.
After front panel decals removed, and the top cover reversed to hide screen printing, who would know what it was.
Wiring was straighforward, no audiophoolery, just 10AWG equipment wire for the big stuff, rest of wiring as reqd for mains and signal hookups.
No issues following cold checks, and tested both channels into dummy load, a little over 37 watts/channel measured (8 ohms), 42 watts one channel driven.
Now that the modules are in a proper grounded chassis, they really are QUIET.
I was impressed last year when I first got them working "bare-bones" on the shelf, couldn't take them off and play another amp until I needed to fit them in the chassis.
Very fine work Tom, thank you again for all your hard work, they just play, blamelessly, on 96dB/1watt horns, that is special around here.
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