I'm old and slow. Please elaborate on the described techniques.
Actually, I'm more lazy than slow. I'm looking for the easiest way to get a pattern that can be used to cut smooth and symmetrical apertures on my band saw.
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Print the image to a PDF file. Then use Adobe Acrobat viewer to print but select print option to print to larger full scale size using the tile feature. It prints many sheets that you tape together like tiles. Check scale with a ruler.
The other one is to use freehand to draw the arc from the gap to the corner. Fold it over and trace to make it symmetric (whatever you drew).
The other one is to use freehand to draw the arc from the gap to the corner. Fold it over and trace to make it symmetric (whatever you drew).
Yes, you can put it on a CDR or thumb drive and get Fedex/Kinkos to print it. They should be able to print it out full size, normally they have large format black and white printers. That's the best and easiest option, but will probably cost you $10 or so.
The plans are in jpg format, size 16 x 20", 96dpi, 226kb. Double check that you have the right file.
To print it 11x17 sheets, it has to be split in half. For 8.5x11, split in in quarters. If you don't know how to do this, taking it to fedex will be easier.
0.44x/0.55xW K'nator with FE103
I built the K'nator for the Radio Shack 40-1197(FE103) per the plans that GregB made with a few adjustments (rounded off to closest 1/8in). I used double layer foam core with liquid nails on select panels to reduce vibrations (K-aperture, bottom, top, internal front baffle and divider panel.
The measurements match predictions for bass extension and SPL: 61Hz f3 and solid 89dB in 2pi space (sitting on floor) and 86dB in 4pi space (on stand). If to be used stand mounted will need BSC circa 1mH + 5ohm. On the floor there is a floor bounce cancellation equal to driver height at 1.7kHz. The response is pretty balanced and flat other than the floor bounce. Just listened to a few songs - very good and tight percussions. There is no ringing at 7kHz like the FF105WK. This is a very sensitive speaker - doesn't require much amp power at all.
Frequency response measured at 0.5m away on stand and floor and without K aperture (the K-aperture extends the bass from 85Hz to 61Hz and smooths the response):
I built the K'nator for the Radio Shack 40-1197(FE103) per the plans that GregB made with a few adjustments (rounded off to closest 1/8in). I used double layer foam core with liquid nails on select panels to reduce vibrations (K-aperture, bottom, top, internal front baffle and divider panel.
The measurements match predictions for bass extension and SPL: 61Hz f3 and solid 89dB in 2pi space (sitting on floor) and 86dB in 4pi space (on stand). If to be used stand mounted will need BSC circa 1mH + 5ohm. On the floor there is a floor bounce cancellation equal to driver height at 1.7kHz. The response is pretty balanced and flat other than the floor bounce. Just listened to a few songs - very good and tight percussions. There is no ringing at 7kHz like the FF105WK. This is a very sensitive speaker - doesn't require much amp power at all.
Frequency response measured at 0.5m away on stand and floor and without K aperture (the K-aperture extends the bass from 85Hz to 61Hz and smooths the response):
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They are both great and I am glad I have both - they are different at the things they do well. For overall loudness and filling a large space with sound, the PA130's in 0.53x are better. The Dayton has about same sensitivity but more xmax and power handling so you can really crank it up. It has less of a HF top end and a bit of ring at 5kHz so percussions will not sound as crisp as the FE103 (or RS40-1197), which is more of an accurate speaker with controlled impulse response that doesn't ring. It has a much lower power rating (6 watts I think) and a flatter frequency response. Very enjoyable to listen to small live jazz ensembles or vocals. Both have about same f3 for bass extension. So to sum it up: PA130 for everyday listening and small party levels. FE103 for more of a near field hifi type application. The PA130 in an 0.53x box is quite a bit bigger - too large for a desk. The FE103 in an 0.44x fits a desk nicely.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
Wow that driver looks good for the money.
At least for the money it costs in the US.
They cost 30€ plus shipping in germany.
My first attempt to build a mini K' wasn't too successful.
I'm going to give the 0.53 with dual TC9FD a try.
I plan to make them out of 10mm or 12mm MDF this time.
I want that as an active speaker with a TDA7492 or TPA3116 inside.
Maybe on the bottom part right next to the drivers would be a good spot.
Any suggestions for that?
Maybe a little adjustment in the geometry of the enclosure is needed?
Sorry to hear the first try wasn't good. What was the problem - and what driver did you make? There is plenty of room inside for an amp. If you look back at at a post by ?Fran..? He put an amp inside the 0.53x bolted to back panel. The back or bottom can work you have lots of room if using TDA7492 or TPA3116.
Fran has a website with more details. One of the finest builds to date:
http://22nanofarads.com/2014/11/09/2xtc9fd-minikarlsonators/
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I used the Vifa, a TDA8932 and mounted it similar to what you have linked ... but my build was much worse.
Maybe i can make some adjustments, but i don't know if it is worth the effort because i underestimated the will of the folded cardboard i used to not stay in a right on the side panel.
It ended up with a crooked baffle.
The material behaved a lot different than wood....
Maybe i can make some adjustments, but i don't know if it is worth the effort because i underestimated the will of the folded cardboard i used to not stay in a right on the side panel.
It ended up with a crooked baffle.
The material behaved a lot different than wood....
Ok, thin cardboard is not a good material for K'nators. You need structural rigidity to locate panels while gluing. If the thick triple ply corrugated, it can work, but thing double ply is not sufficiently rigid enough. The triple ply I like is used to package large objects like appliances and digital pianos for shipping. It is about 5mm thick and quite stiff.
I'll take a stab at printing it in sections. When that fails, I'll try FedEx Office/Kinko's.
I'll use 9mm birch ply for my next attempt, which will be the 0.53 with dual Vifas.
Now i have to decide which stereo amp the cab will contain.
I have those three options:
- black TDA7498
- blue TDA7492
- Sure TPA3116
All are unmodded, only the 7498 has the volume pot removed.
Which would you suggest?
Now i have to decide which stereo amp the cab will contain.
I have those three options:
- black TDA7498
- blue TDA7492
- Sure TPA3116
All are unmodded, only the 7498 has the volume pot removed.
Which would you suggest?