Just wondering, If you like isobaric why not chose a driver that will work in an isobaric design? If you like the sound of the other design why not put them in a low Q push pull sealed setup. Porting a .25-.5ft^3 box is just silly and really should use Passive radiators.
How many of them do you have? Four of them in a push pull would make the box big enough to do something with. Eight would be even better.
How many of them do you have? Four of them in a push pull would make the box big enough to do something with. Eight would be even better.
In this thread? The bulk of the discussion is isobaric. Frankly, I've simmed this driver several times in various sealed, ported, and PR'd configs using meaured specs, and I'm hoping there is some magic the horn, because all the sims look pretty bad. I bought the driver pretty cheap as an experiment, but otherwise wouldn't use it.
Hi, I did, its the design for Silly's sub, but the 10" PR is no longer available, rgds, sreten.
post #12 : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/80138-sillys-1st-sub-8-mcm-55-2421-a.html
With the earlier thread it covers most of whats to know about this driver, and useful links.
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Thanks all, lots of good ideas.Four of them in a 2ft^3 box tuned to 30hz, Hp at 30, with 240w + B =
I've got an idea for myself but i'll share the drawing. BRB
I did try a double clamshell design (4 woofers) in one of the original BR 51.5 liters box; I set the woofers the old BR box for the pic/illustration.
With the back of 2 woofers, brace and port it must have been in the 50 liter range. The port was a simple 3" tube x 4" - 5". The double clamshell box was pretty good, didn't keep it that long. From that point, I made up the single clamshell 28.3liter, then on and on - I always thought the boxes were improving.
When checking out the tunnel box that I gave my buddy, I was moving it around while hooked up/playing, it did feel like there was a 10 pound cannon ball swinging inside.....I know very hard to believe, I didn’t believe it at the time either.
I say that because: the cones are paper lightweights, nothing to them; i.e. how could 2 - 6" round pieces of paper cause such a violent reaction/effect.
A partial answer/guess is [and don’t know how paper could do this] the woofers are actually playing at a much higher level than the satellites, but with the combination of the tunnel and the x-over, all that is left is the narrow 25hz to 80hz band.
The tunnel seems to handle the extra power quite nicely; I never blew any of them up, and I think they still have enough left in them for most listeners; wouldn’t recommend them for back of car trunks, etc.
Power ~ In the workshop I had one hooked up to a 60 watt stereo Adcom 535II amp, 4 ohm per woofer, that worked well. The two in the HT are connected to 2 channels from a RMB – 1095, 8ohm per.
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I'm about to throw in the towel on this one….I may go back to BR(s), these look nice and the price is not bad either.
http://meniscusaudio.com/css-sdx10-p-773.html
Post #143
Hi fastbike1,
The 55-2421 models just about the same as the TB W8-740P in the THSPUD tapped horn, as seen in geitmans thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ped-horn-th-spud.html?perpage=25&pagenumber=1.
Just in general, the 55-2421 seems to work best in FLHs or THs.
Regards,
Hi fastbike1,
The 55-2421 models just about the same as the TB W8-740P in the THSPUD tapped horn, as seen in geitmans thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ped-horn-th-spud.html?perpage=25&pagenumber=1.
Just in general, the 55-2421 seems to work best in FLHs or THs.
Regards,
Hi Odougbo,
Have you seen the CSS Quartet10 Subwoofer Kit?
Creative Sound - Product Details
Regards,
Have you seen the CSS Quartet10 Subwoofer Kit?
Creative Sound - Product Details
Regards,
Thanks Don
Thanks Don, very helpful. I like the sound of 8" and Isobaric, and may try this woofer, don't think I could fit 2 in an Iso box though.
If I went this route, I'd buy two and have a 30 liter box on each side.
Thanks Don, very helpful. I like the sound of 8" and Isobaric, and may try this woofer, don't think I could fit 2 in an Iso box though.
If I went this route, I'd buy two and have a 30 liter box on each side.
SDX10
Thanks, I did see that a while ago. I just got off the phone with Meniscus, unfortunately the teck fellow wasn't there. I had a few questions about the SDX10.
http://meniscusaudio.com/css-sdx10-p-773.html
I tried some aliments in WinISD and Perfect box, they were about the same: a 2.25 cf (64L) box tuned at 25hz gave some impressive results; -2.8db @ 27.8hz
Sounds too easy...can someone check please, or recommend a box size?
The suggested box size is 43 liters, net. 3” flared port, 17” long for 24.5 tuning.
Imp - 4 ohm
Fs - 26 Hz
Qts - .42
Vas - 53L
SPL - 85 dB
Xmax - 18.5mm
BTW, Don the Trio 8" won’t be in till January.
Thanks, I did see that a while ago. I just got off the phone with Meniscus, unfortunately the teck fellow wasn't there. I had a few questions about the SDX10.
http://meniscusaudio.com/css-sdx10-p-773.html
I tried some aliments in WinISD and Perfect box, they were about the same: a 2.25 cf (64L) box tuned at 25hz gave some impressive results; -2.8db @ 27.8hz
Sounds too easy...can someone check please, or recommend a box size?
The suggested box size is 43 liters, net. 3” flared port, 17” long for 24.5 tuning.
Imp - 4 ohm
Fs - 26 Hz
Qts - .42
Vas - 53L
SPL - 85 dB
Xmax - 18.5mm
BTW, Don the Trio 8" won’t be in till January.
LOL! You've been chopping down trees with a duck... now that you have an ax it's too easy...hahahahaha
about the box: that's about right.
a very good lead
Thanks Don, a very good lead, I'm going to request to be added to waiting list.
I ran it two programs, it will go a bit lower in a 36l - 42l without too much of a dip, and get past the 30hz line, there would be a 1 db hump at 35hz.
They wouldn’t give me a $$ quote over the phone for the new TRIO 8”, but I think the price is going to be up there.
http://meniscusaudio.com/images/CSS%20TRIO8.pdf
Thanks Don, a very good lead, I'm going to request to be added to waiting list.
I ran it two programs, it will go a bit lower in a 36l - 42l without too much of a dip, and get past the 30hz line, there would be a 1 db hump at 35hz.
They wouldn’t give me a $$ quote over the phone for the new TRIO 8”, but I think the price is going to be up there.
http://meniscusaudio.com/images/CSS%20TRIO8.pdf
Maybe I should have started off this thread with “best subwoofer for around $100”
[2 woofers delivered - $76]
I hooked the signal generator to the processor, did not move the speakers out of the room.
They sound like the modeling on post #97, there is a slight dip before the 30-35hz peak, I don’t think dip is that bad; also there are ways to compensate, yes? I don’t find the need too, I just run them flat – crossed over at 80hz.
I’m pretty sure the 30 – 35hz peak is above the flat line. I am always impressed with the “power” - they just have a powerful feel to them.
Also, unsure why a classic tuning method – is now a false impedance reading.
I may be stirring the pot again, never, never my intention; the target was more of what can be done for less.
Brief history, My Grandfather used to send me 12” die cast Electro voice woofers back in the early 70s, I’ve been “building speakers” since then; cars, trucks, houses; out of wood, PCV, on and on.
[2 woofers delivered - $76]
I hooked the signal generator to the processor, did not move the speakers out of the room.
They sound like the modeling on post #97, there is a slight dip before the 30-35hz peak, I don’t think dip is that bad; also there are ways to compensate, yes? I don’t find the need too, I just run them flat – crossed over at 80hz.
I’m pretty sure the 30 – 35hz peak is above the flat line. I am always impressed with the “power” - they just have a powerful feel to them.
Also, unsure why a classic tuning method – is now a false impedance reading.
I may be stirring the pot again, never, never my intention; the target was more of what can be done for less.
Brief history, My Grandfather used to send me 12” die cast Electro voice woofers back in the early 70s, I’ve been “building speakers” since then; cars, trucks, houses; out of wood, PCV, on and on.
Isobaric Wars
All most forgot about this build; similar to the last. Started off with 2 - 10s, Foster drivers (If I have the name right).
They were both side by side in a 6cf sealed box, used them for years; the box configuration was recommended by the seller. Then about 5 years ago contacted the seller (starts with an M); they said no, no, no, build a 4 cf vented box and run them parallel since they were 12 ohm woofers. They even sent a plan; fine it worked great, much better than the sealed.
From that point, I got the idea to go 2cf isobaric (tunnel), well that was the best sub woofer out of all three. We are still using it in my dad's HT, it is very "powerful". Sure got my $$ out of these woofers!
So that said, I have one more plan/build up my sleeve AND this new Iso box models nicely in WinISD. more to come.
I'll be back……….
All most forgot about this build; similar to the last. Started off with 2 - 10s, Foster drivers (If I have the name right).
They were both side by side in a 6cf sealed box, used them for years; the box configuration was recommended by the seller. Then about 5 years ago contacted the seller (starts with an M); they said no, no, no, build a 4 cf vented box and run them parallel since they were 12 ohm woofers. They even sent a plan; fine it worked great, much better than the sealed.
From that point, I got the idea to go 2cf isobaric (tunnel), well that was the best sub woofer out of all three. We are still using it in my dad's HT, it is very "powerful". Sure got my $$ out of these woofers!
So that said, I have one more plan/build up my sleeve AND this new Iso box models nicely in WinISD. more to come.
I'll be back……….
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