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Mauro Penasa's INV GC/REF GC group buy.

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Brian said:
- The 3886s mount ever-so-slightly in from the edge of the board. I mounted my heatink so the bottom is flush with the bottom of the board, and needed to convince the pins they wanted to go into the holes in the board. Perhaps mounting flush with the top of the board would be better.

I don't have the parts in front of me. This is speculation. I think I want to mount the chips just a little higher on the sinks. I intend to use the sinks as part of the strucure of the enclosure & I want clearance below the PCB for this reason. After getting the parts I will look into sawing a shallow rebate across the sink to clear the PCB. This is a good point to consider for V.2

Brian said:
- When soldering the 3886s, do one row of pins on each chip, then the second row. This give the chip a little time to cool down from the first row of soldering.

After the first pin is soldered the alignment of the chip should be checked and adjusted if required. Consider soldering the first 2 pins on opposite corners.
 
I will look into sawing a shallow rebate across the sink to clear the PCB.

This is a good idea. I will do this to mine tonight.

Another alternative, if you haven;t already mounted all the components, is to rip 1/32" off the edge of the board on a tablesaw.

For the drill guide, I will place some markings denoting "Flush with top of board", "flush with bottom of board". From there you can measure to obtain the desired position.

For those interested, and who know how they want it mounted, I could drill and tap 4-40 or 6-32 holes in the heatsink prior to shipping. Only takes me about 5 minutes per heatsink. The trick will be knowing where you want the holes before seeing everything.
 
I will probably cut a 1/16" deep 3/32" slot in the heatsink to mount my PCB. I have done this in the past and it makes a very stable install. with no chance for stress on the chip pins.

The hight of the mounting holes is relative to the spacers/standoffs you are using. So you couldn't really create a "universal" template except for width.

One other option is to use a belt sander to eliminate the overhang.
 
Incidently, the reason I recommend mounting the ICs to the heatsink before mounting them to the board...

I placed the ICs on the board (dry) and measured the height from board to mounting hole. Right around 20mm. I then used the 20mm height to mark the mounting hole locations on the heatsink (exactly 20mm).

If you solder the ICs in first, you will a) be very lucky to get both mounted at exactly the same height, and b) both heights will likely not be the one you drilled for.

By mounting first, you will be dead on.

[EDIT]: Also, by mounting to the heatsink first, you can seat them in the heatsink compond with a slight twisting motion to eliminate any air pockets and squish out extra compound.
 
I'd just like to say that my PCB arrived today and it looks just wonderful. I couldn't see from the pictures, but I'm glad to see that all the connectors are well labeled, so that I don't have to figure out what everything is from the schematic then read it wrong and blow the thing up ;).

I'm getting antsy waiting for parts now...Don't rush yourself though Brian.
 
So, I am about 2/3 of the way done putting the kits together. I found last night that I am short 5 emitter resistors, so I'm in touch with DigiKey now. Shouldn't be a problem. The missing resistors from Mouser should arrive today.

So, one think I always hate doing when I get a kit is going through all the resistors and film caps trying to identify what each is (value, number, etc). So, I am taking the time to sort and label all the small passives. The EL caps are pretty slearly marked, so they will just go in a bag. It's not taking much more time, but it should make the whole thing a little easier to deal with, provided you can read my hand writing :O
 
Hey Russ -

The board came this week. Looks great. Thanks.

In an earlier post you suggested that 300VA was a minimum for the transformer. Not certain if that was a general recommendation or a specific response to the post in question.

I have a pair of 24v 160VA Plitrons on hand. Would these do or are they too small?

Seth
 
Seth Hensel said:
Hey Russ -

The board came this week. Looks great. Thanks.

In an earlier post you suggested that 300VA was a minimum for the transformer. Not certain if that was a general recommendation or a specific response to the post in question.

I have a pair of 24v 160VA Plitrons on hand. Would these do or are they too small?

Seth


Those should work great! :) Just use them both for one board.
 
I just shipped all the US orders. The WIKI has the UPSP tracking numbers and a link to the tracking page on their web site. Please update the WIKI when your parts arrive.

I will be fillong out customs forms tonight and shipping the international orders tomorrow. Any requests for the customs forms, please make them now.

I am required to inventory the items in the packages. I was planning on putting: "(1) Sample Audio Amplifier Kit: Commercial Value $0"

I would appreciate any advise from those who have shipped internationaly with USPS in the past.
 
zero value or not

I am not an expert!

And of course I have thrown all the packing from records and other items away.

As far as I can recall things that have been send to me internationally (from outside EC) always carried "a value". Something like 15 USD, and a statement like you make: free sample (or gift).

(Zero value is perhaps suspicious and also affects the insured value.)

For what it is worth.

Regards,

E&E
 
Re: zero value or not

earsandeyes said:
I am not an expert!

And of course I have thrown all the packing from records and other items away.

As far as I can recall things that have been send to me internationally (from outside EC) always carried "a value". Something like 15 USD, and a statement like you make: free sample (or gift).

(Zero value is perhaps suspicious and also affects the insured value.)

For what it is worth.

Regards,

E&E
I would have to agree here. I have always put the actual value(sale price) of the electronic equipment I send. For Group buy type shipments I have done in the past (not audio) I do typically mark it "commercial sample".
 
10-4. I will put a value on them, but lower than actual. I agree that 0 would be a little weird.

earsandeyes, your package has been fun. I initially put everything in a Global Priority box which has a 4lb limmit. Your box was 4lb .9oz. I reassessed the packaging, and now all international orders are going out in large envelopes (boxes inside). Your's will be a large (heatsinks) envelope and a small (parts) envelope.
 
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