Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[shepperd]

More that a bit I hope!

 

[SimontY]

When the bigger things are done you're only left with incremental improvements that tend to be quite audible but not mind-blowing.

 

[shepperd]

I never expected to take it this far. I'll have a good listen after this and decide if it's worth being incremental. This is getting pricey! The one thing I'm hoping for is an increase in bass definition and quality, which is where these players are weak. That and a sweeter, more airy midrange. After that I'm going to address the appearance, which I hate. I want to put wooden cheeks and a plexiglass top. I also have a sheet of lead flashing that I want to use for mass loading (probably on the bottom, although this is tricky due to all the bumps there).

 

[SimontY]

My cd63 was good on bass definition, less so on weight. I know of one that has massive incredibly detailed bass, though... so it's possible. I'm sure a '67 can be made to deliver the bass too.

 

[barry.childs]

The thing is, although it is a lot of work and i'm too lazy, all those incrementals must add up. I would love to hear Brent's set up.

 

[bikeral10]

Hi since doing the hdam by pass the bass seems a bit light compared to my reference cdp a 63ki the one im modding is a 63se i had some 4562s in from china but ive changed those for lm4562s from the states im decoupling with 16v 470uf no dc blocking caps is this normal.
cheers alan

 

[SimontY]

Yeh, it's normal to have less bass after the HDAM bypass. It's not a good mod unless the player's well-modded in my opinion.

The KI also has bigger bass than the SE so this outcome is no surprise.

 

[bikeral10]

Is it better to mod a 63ki then ? Than trying to regain what ive lost or do i carry on clock volt regs and so on .
cheers simon

 

[SimontY]

It makes more sense to work on the better player as it will always be one step ahead due to the superior power transformer. You could use the SE as a practice player to hone your skills and test mods and then do them to the better machine afterwards. Alternatively, sell the SE and put the cash into more parts.

 

[bikeral10]

It makes more sense to work on the better player as it will always be one step ahead due to the superior power transformer. You could use the SE as a practice player to hone your skills and test mods and then do them to the better machine afterwards. Alternatively, sell the SE and put the cash into more parts.

Thank you simon,
makes sense need some solid advice which way to go to make good gains tryed emailing you for the volt regs mods for shure im a novice but willing to learn.
alan

 

[AceFactor]

Hey guys, I've just picked up an non working 63KI CDP from ebay that wont power up. Apparently it was left in a cold car boot and wouldn't power up afterwards. I've tried the obvious 5amp fuse in the plug, but I'm at a loss. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Adam

 

[barry.childs]

CD63, SE, KI, sonically I can't tell the difference.

 

[barry.childs]

AceFactor, We are here to help you. Did the fuse blow? If not did you see a display?

 

[UV101]

Acefactor, check the 2 fuses inside the player. They are on the 5v rail. If they are OK, you will need a voltmeter to check the rails inside the player.

 

[AceFactor]

Thanks for the speedy replies guys! Nothing from the display or any operation from the players, acts like its dead to the world. Checked both the fuses visually and they both look fine, infact the player is in excellent condition inside and out. Shame it doesn't work!

Adam

 

[Fidelity Audio]

CD63, SE, KI, sonically I can't tell the difference.

Are you kidding!! You might have to re address the system you are testing them on.

A std 63 is all over the place, it struggles with more complex music compared to say the KI. Details are not a good and bass has less grip and control.

Brent

 

[UV101]

Are you kidding!!

Brent

I must admit, I read that and thought

 

[Fidelity Audio]

Bikeral10

If you are up to it build a large off board +/- 12V supply. Remove the two fuses internally and wire the +/- from psu (also gnd to main pcb gnd) to the R149 R150 links on the pcb. Doing this brings huge gains in depth, smoothness + lifts the player very high indeed.

Brent

 

[Fidelity Audio]

Thanks for the speedy replies guys! Nothing from the display or any operation from the players, acts like its dead to the world. Checked both the fuses visually and they both look fine, infact the player is in excellent condition inside and out. Shame it doesn't work!

Adam

You need to measure to see if 240V is getting to the tx

Brent

 

[UV101]

Thanks for the speedy replies guys! Nothing from the display or any operation from the players, acts like its dead to the world. Checked both the fuses visually and they both look fine, infact the player is in excellent condition inside and out. Shame it doesn't work!

Adam

OK first, do you have a multimeter? If not, you need to get down to Maplin and get yourself something cheap that measure voltage and resistance. Also, download the service manual with the circuit diagram from Ray's site (check the 1st post in this thread for a link to his site).

You need to establish which voltage rails are working (if any) and which ones are not. Also, although those glass fuses look fine, you need to measure them with the meter.