Lights mods and strange problem...
Hi guys!
I have a very good sound and a problem... yes strange!
I've been touching my CD-53 with these mods:
• coax mods like found before:
between R193 and C521, sheild gounded to U203
between U132 and U188 removed then U171 removed, grounded sheild to C126 ground (C126 is now closer to IC)
between U131 and U189 removed then U172 removed. grounded to C126
• dedicated UA7805s (TI) from a dedicated +17V (schottky, ZL 2200/25), one for decoder analog, one for each channel at the DAC.
here is my problem:
sometimes it just starts to read the disc fine (very good sound, better bass and space), then if I stop and play again it may only play wihte noise, stop/play plays fine or not, then mixed wihte noise and music... the same if I change the tracks, half a chance it will works or play some wihte noise or mixed...
It's logical it's very likely to be the coax mod, wich one may link in the player the datas and its shape to be properly decoded?
Pics if that may help and thanks to all to try to make my player "stable"
Even Martin is welcome =)
Matthieu not willing to open it tonight...
Hi guys!
I have a very good sound and a problem... yes strange!
I've been touching my CD-53 with these mods:
• coax mods like found before:
between R193 and C521, sheild gounded to U203
between U132 and U188 removed then U171 removed, grounded sheild to C126 ground (C126 is now closer to IC)
between U131 and U189 removed then U172 removed. grounded to C126
• dedicated UA7805s (TI) from a dedicated +17V (schottky, ZL 2200/25), one for decoder analog, one for each channel at the DAC.
here is my problem:
sometimes it just starts to read the disc fine (very good sound, better bass and space), then if I stop and play again it may only play wihte noise, stop/play plays fine or not, then mixed wihte noise and music... the same if I change the tracks, half a chance it will works or play some wihte noise or mixed...
It's logical it's very likely to be the coax mod, wich one may link in the player the datas and its shape to be properly decoded?
Pics if that may help and thanks to all to try to make my player "stable"
Even Martin is welcome =)An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Matthieu not willing to open it tonight...
Hi Guys I am a newbie to the forum I have just got hold of a CD63KI I am so impressed with the sound as standard but I want to start doing some mods, having looked at the list of mods and read through this thread I just don’t know where to start. I am an ex TV engineer so am quite handy with the soldering iron.
Any advise of what to do first would be appreciated.
My Current system is:
Quad 33 upgraded caps and op amps
Quad 405-2 upgraded caps and op amps
Monitor audio R352 speakers
Ariston Audio RD11 Superior Turntable
Audio Technica Arm
I mainly listen to rock music would this effect the type of mods to be done to the player?
Matt
Any advise of what to do first would be appreciated.
My Current system is:
Quad 33 upgraded caps and op amps
Quad 405-2 upgraded caps and op amps
Monitor audio R352 speakers
Ariston Audio RD11 Superior Turntable
Audio Technica Arm
I mainly listen to rock music would this effect the type of mods to be done to the player?
Matt
I killed my player.
I had this coax mod done and forget to mention I removed all parts from Decoder's SOBM pin. and the porblem.
Tried to terminate the coax at signal end with a 100R. Something started to smoke, no way to guess from where as I've jumped on the main switch.
Then tried to get this step back: ok get to previous state with the problem.
Then last try with 100R at the signal source (µCon). Nothing, won't start, blown one fuse.
Then back to no coax mod (but the clock and classic one to R501): one more fuse.
Then I started do pray.
Then I've seen than beeing touching parts around i've pushed the coax at R501 close to PCB: the sheild part even if almost cut was touching U136. I think that's a deadly mistake. A short.
Removed that in normal way. tray motor is cray and force out with no stop, disc motor the same, the CD turns at very high speeds!
Havin' a look at manual U136 is linked to D152 wich lead to TCA0372 wich... is linked to disc and tray motors, at least. Other side of U136 leads to... Servo.
Test mod is working, µCon is a bit alive so, test 0 do try to focus, Servo a bit alive also?
I may hear all what must be said, like there must be many parts burnt and not on this one, that TCA0372 are no more build or cost more than a used CD43, that the µCon is dead also etc...
A very sad Matthieu
I had this coax mod done and forget to mention I removed all parts from Decoder's SOBM pin. and the porblem.
Tried to terminate the coax at signal end with a 100R. Something started to smoke, no way to guess from where as I've jumped on the main switch.
Then tried to get this step back: ok get to previous state with the problem.
Then last try with 100R at the signal source (µCon). Nothing, won't start, blown one fuse.
Then back to no coax mod (but the clock and classic one to R501): one more fuse.
Then I started do pray.
Then I've seen than beeing touching parts around i've pushed the coax at R501 close to PCB: the sheild part even if almost cut was touching U136. I think that's a deadly mistake. A short.
Removed that in normal way. tray motor is cray and force out with no stop, disc motor the same, the CD turns at very high speeds!
Havin' a look at manual U136 is linked to D152 wich lead to TCA0372 wich... is linked to disc and tray motors, at least. Other side of U136 leads to... Servo.
Test mod is working, µCon is a bit alive so, test 0 do try to focus, Servo a bit alive also?
I may hear all what must be said, like there must be many parts burnt and not on this one, that TCA0372 are no more build or cost more than a used CD43, that the µCon is dead also etc...
A very sad Matthieu
Looks like you fried a TCA...
Getting one shouldn't be that hard: see here or here for example.
Why did you try to terminate the coax anyway? It's no use for such short lengths.
Ray
Getting one shouldn't be that hard: see here or here for example.
Why did you try to terminate the coax anyway? It's no use for such short lengths.
Ray
6h5c said:
Ahhh that's the question that will obsesse me these days like a punishment. The little winged Matthieu will say "but dear you have done your best to fix this coax issue" and the red one with tail "what the f*** you messed with modding an outdater budget palyer? Burn it!"
Ray I was looking for my music back and take some "parts" of the problem and some solutions find here and there... Some they study such things in school for years, have mercy for someone who never
Anyway, do you know if I may check some signal or such with my DMM at the decoder or any device linked to motor control? Like a 5V when play or 0 when stop or such? The FSM does not tell much...
Thanks,
Matthieu
.. a bit like "hey I've just tuned my RX-7, she's working like clockwork, I've only forgetten to change the fuel pulsation dampener... http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_U2EH4L_lu...1061703755968_1627177723_163135_3611738_n.jpg "
Malefoda said:
I figured it would be something like that...
The tray motor is controlled by the microcontroller. You can see if you can measure the signal going up and down at R160 when you press the eject button. This also depends on the position of the tray switch.
Voltages on pins 5 and 6 of the TCA should be 2.5V (see schematic). If the TCA is blown, R164 and 165 are probably dead, and then that's where the smoke came from
. Best thing is to take out the TCA and see if all voltages are o.k. first.Funny thing is, that U136 normally is at 0V (unless the tray was moving), so shorting it to GND wouldn't do anything. Are you sure you didn't short something else?
Ray
6h5c said:
I was doing tests, so unfortunately I did moved the tray almost as soon as power was one, with U136 shorted. I'll have a new look tomorrow but I've touched nothing else. And I've seen smoke maybe around the Decoder corner, the TCA driving the motors is in this area... will let you know my founds tomorrow.
I'm exhausted! And these stupid Farnell charging 12€ shipping for a part or thousand...
Matthieu, coroner.
Sorry to hear about the player Matthieu, hope you get it fixed.
Just a thought, but here in the uk we get free shipping from RS and Farnell (although Farnell have a £20 minimum order). If there's something you need from any of those two, let me know and I'll order it for you and send for much less shipping
Cheers, Lee.
Just a thought, but here in the uk we get free shipping from RS and Farnell (although Farnell have a £20 minimum order). If there's something you need from any of those two, let me know and I'll order it for you and send for much less shipping
Cheers, Lee.
Sometimes you can see, sometimes not. If a resistor is overloaded a lot, it blows very quick, and you may only see a tiny black dot on the body, where the metal film is interrupted. If you overload it by maybe a factor 1.5 or 2, it will slowly burn up and, well, the visual signs are more obvious 
.
Is the dead R one of R614/165?
Ray
.Is the dead R one of R614/165?
Ray
At least both, the FSM stands they are 1R 1/4W and "fuse" wich I don't know is a special type of R or just their purpose. One shows 12R and the other is just dead, but visually both are new, no trace at all! I've fitted some 1R 1/4W metal from my left parts of the Flea.
I will fit some pins to 5 & 6 to check what the DMM says...
I will fit some pins to 5 & 6 to check what the DMM says...
That's because they are fusible resistors, a special type that is non-flammable, and acts as a fuse when overloaded. They are a cheap and practical way to provide local safety .
Maybe, if you are lucky, these protected your TCA chip from harm! Be careful if you use standard resistors, they may catch fire if the chip is short-circuited.
Ray
.Maybe, if you are lucky, these protected your TCA chip from harm! Be careful if you use standard resistors, they may catch fire if the chip is short-circuited.
Ray
Thanks Ray,
I'll go for real fuse resistors before doing anything. I must also put a right rated fuse at the TX, the one in isn't.
So far the pin 5 shows 2.86V when stop, 1.38V when I press eject,
pin 6 2.38V.
This is not 2.5 but as the IC is missing that may not be a problem. Nothing else is smoking, when pressed eject and after maybe a second (sa the switch is on I guess) the lens try to focus and move to its start position on the radial axis. That sounds good to me.
I think next step it to get some main fuses, fuse resistors, the TCA and some bypass caps for analog Rubycon ZL but the very closed ones to DOS and DAC analog. Maybe 0.1 MKP flim there?
Matthieu
I'll go for real fuse resistors before doing anything. I must also put a right rated fuse at the TX, the one in isn't.
So far the pin 5 shows 2.86V when stop, 1.38V when I press eject,
pin 6 2.38V.
This is not 2.5 but as the IC is missing that may not be a problem. Nothing else is smoking, when pressed eject and after maybe a second (sa the switch is on I guess) the lens try to focus and move to its start position on the radial axis. That sounds good to me.
I think next step it to get some main fuses, fuse resistors, the TCA and some bypass caps for analog Rubycon ZL but the very closed ones to DOS and DAC analog. Maybe 0.1 MKP flim there?
Matthieu
Well beside the fact voltages are a bit away from spec (-12.7 instead of -12.1 and 10.9 instead of 11.5...) all seems correct. I just have to fit a new TCA0372, right? Or any further test in your minds guys?
A bit off topic, I've removed the main switch from the player, my main socket strip is dedicated to this. But I wonder if the small X2 film cap deserve to be fitted by the switch in the socket? And if the small light in the red switch is something noisy on the main? Seems all the high-end stuff has none...
A bit off topic, I've removed the main switch from the player, my main socket strip is dedicated to this. But I wonder if the small X2 film cap deserve to be fitted by the switch in the socket? And if the small light in the red switch is something noisy on the main? Seems all the high-end stuff has none...
Pin 5 voltages look o.k., but pin 6 is a bit low. If the supply voltage is 5V, that voltage should be quite close to 2.5V. With 2.38V, the supply voltage on R161 would be 4.76V. Can you confirm?
The +/- 10V for the motors is not regulated and unloaded, so it's much higher than mentioned in the manual, that's normal.
Maybe you don't even have to replace the TCA, I'd first try two new 1R resistors, or did you try that already?
Regards,
Ray
The +/- 10V for the motors is not regulated and unloaded, so it's much higher than mentioned in the manual, that's normal.
Maybe you don't even have to replace the TCA, I'd first try two new 1R resistors, or did you try that already?
Regards,
Ray