Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

rowemeister said:


Nice one, buy some pcb lacqure. I use anti corrona, mainly because I repair insulation testers that can output 5000V lol

Brent


5000v! eek:hot:

A lad on my electrical course belted himself with 500v from and insulation tester. Funniest thing I've seen for ages. Noob, lol.

Can someone explain the difference between the original filter and the bessel slope version. Does the bessel have less emphasis on the treble or something like that?

Lee.
 
Thomo said:
Hi guys. I am looking to build a discrete stage and having read above about inductors picking up noise, would like to know the best ones to use. I am looking at:

1193619 and 1077043 , any ideas which are best? Or can one of you guys point me somewhere else for better ones?

Lee.


I replaced my inductors with Toko 10RB shielded ones from here and it cured the hum problem I was having completely.

To those saying that the original filter had a treble lift, yes it did, but smaller than the rolloff you get with the Bessell, if that matters to you.
 
Glenn2 said:



I replaced my inductors with Toko 10RB shielded ones from here and it cured the hum problem I was having completely.

To those saying that the original filter had a treble lift, yes it did, but smaller than the rolloff you get with the Bessell, if that matters to you.

Thanks Glenn. I ordered some of those inductors earlier.

I think I'll stay with the original filter then, I don't like the idea of roll-off, that's why I stayed away from NOS with my tda1541 player.

Lee
 
Thomo said:



Seeing as I'm still a bit of a noob, any chance of explaining what difference this will make to the sound please?

Lee.


It should sound a tad smoother with the Bessell.

With Ray's filter circuit and his prescribed values you are exactly 1dB down by 20kHz. Would not bother most people but it is just about audible nonetheless.

Try it and if you feel you need more top-end sparkle you can always change the values and try it the other way later.
 
Member
Joined 2006
Paid Member
The Os Con Story

Hi Ray

Once more following your work, I replaced C124 Next to VREF out by a 220uF 10V OsCon (gives "space" and transient attack in the bass).

After that I replaced C135 / 138 (Q105) Sled + LD by 150uF 16V oscon (more microdetail) (ultra low bass info) (wider space).

Next went C153 / 154 (QM01) Disc Motor Driver by 150uF 16V oscon (more low bass control).

But the real magic happened when I finally replaced R127 / 128 (Q105) Sled + LD by 220uH/2,5R (more bass control and trebble definition).

I would really apreciate your comments on this upgrade.

Now I really understand the possibilities of this player and want a good output stage.

I need a good 12V PSU for the output stage.... Can you suggest a minimum quality TX ?

Should I use 80VA or less ?

Thank you again for your help.

Best Regards

Ricardo
 
Member
Joined 2006
Paid Member
Hi

I am now looking at the external DAC PSU..... Can anyone tell me what is the little black part that seems to be glued to the TX..?

Can I damage it trying to remove the board the upgrade the caps ?

Thank you for your help.

Regards

Ricardo
 

Attachments

  • p1010016 crop.jpg
    p1010016 crop.jpg
    73.4 KB · Views: 302
I've noticed some differences between the discrete's on Brent's and Ray's pdf's. Brent uses 1 2sc2240 per channel and 2 x 1n4148's and Ray uses 2 x bc550 and a 220n cap (c8). Which is the best layout? If Ray's is best, can I use 2sc2240's instead of bc550? As i have them already.

Cheers,

Lee.