marcusdeming said:
If you have to use these caps just make sure the legs are as short as possible, if this is not feasable i would use a more suited (size wise) cap and use these Cerefine elsewhere later.
Could you not fit the caps to a pcb and mount the pcb above the dac and wire down into the main pcb.
Brent
6h5c said:
Hi Andrew,
Those are ordinairy polyester caps (MKM). But a good replacement for MKC is MKP, or polystyrene in case of smaller values, or PPS
Hi Jim,
Use the digital ground plane, as all signals are digital, except the HF signal. Mostly the piece of plane that is closest by is somewhere connected to the IC ground, then look in the datasheet which pin it is. The DAC has a separate analog plane at pins 19 and 24.
Hi,
It's about the same, only it uses more regulators to feed the different supply-pins of the DAC. Just tap power from C813, use a L-C filter if you like to supply a new regulator and output cap, and connect it to the DAC. Make sure the supply-pin is isolated first. Some regs need a 1k load to ensure a minimum output current (see datasheet) because some DAC pins draw little current (see datasheet).
Regards,
Ray
Hi ray,
oh no so i have gotten the wrong item...???
marcusdeming said:
Hi Marcus,
It's not that it's wrong per se. It's just not the very best part for the job.
Whatever you do with those Cerafines, you must keep the leads short. I'm always being told this by the experts! The shorter the better. The difference could be very audible, you could even downgrade it if you're not careful.
Simon
Talking about downgrading. I may sell my stuff and get what these guys have, coin in the bank then 
Downgraded audio
Brent
Downgraded audio
Brent
Some of my mods as of today.. i guess i am pretty crazy about this now, i havent been sleeping for 2 days. its basically shopping for stuff then school then modding the cdp...
It seriously look like some cerafine forest in my cdp...
I am sure i got the 100n pp right this time round..and the 100n x7r...
Can someone tell me which is will be better when we use them to solder underneath the ecaps to clean up the higher freq and improving the sonic quality.. Mica caps, polyester, polyproplene, X7R, ceramics... I know the PPS would be the best option but how is the ranking for the rest mentioned....
It seriously look like some cerafine forest in my cdp...
I am sure i got the 100n pp right this time round..and the 100n x7r...
Can someone tell me which is will be better when we use them to solder underneath the ecaps to clean up the higher freq and improving the sonic quality.. Mica caps, polyester, polyproplene, X7R, ceramics... I know the PPS would be the best option but how is the ranking for the rest mentioned....
Help on transport mechanism, i followed the mod list and change one item on the RF board attached with the transport mechanism, the ecap. how do i know the polarity, though i have soldered it in i would like to seek some assurance...
and also if i connected the x7r orrectly on the RF board..
i have also gotten this inductor for the the driver section how ever i am not sure abt the value can i know how i can check it
here;s the pic:
Yup the message is getting really long but i am quite unsure of some stuff and would certainly like to avoid any unpleasant stuff when i switch on the cdp.. I really need someone to take a look at the output filter that i have put up, i am not sure if it would improve the performance due to the series of wrong items given to me, so please someone take a look and let me know if i have gotten anything wrong or what i could replace, currently most of the output filter items are changed from the original mylar to mainly mica caps.. and that blue ball like thingy.
i am quite unsure.
Reeally appreciate any help rendered....
Many thanks in advance ...
Regards,
Marcus
and also if i connected the x7r orrectly on the RF board..
i have also gotten this inductor for the the driver section how ever i am not sure abt the value can i know how i can check it
here;s the pic:
Yup the message is getting really long but i am quite unsure of some stuff and would certainly like to avoid any unpleasant stuff when i switch on the cdp.. I really need someone to take a look at the output filter that i have put up, i am not sure if it would improve the performance due to the series of wrong items given to me, so please someone take a look and let me know if i have gotten anything wrong or what i could replace, currently most of the output filter items are changed from the original mylar to mainly mica caps.. and that blue ball like thingy.
i am quite unsure.
Reeally appreciate any help rendered....
Many thanks in advance ...
Regards,
Marcus
I just give my opinion and don't want to be mean but if I do such "not so clean and parallel and perfectly inline" work I can't even turn it on, I'm already very disturbed !!!
no offense !
Also, please confirm some said "Cable Talk Broadcast 3" in DIY kit is one of the best for £ bargain around?
no offense !An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also, please confirm some said "Cable Talk Broadcast 3" in DIY kit is one of the best for £ bargain around?
i did this
RF PCB
C107 47n cer. 120u/16V Elna RJH 321-3365
and insert extra 100n X7R between pins 4 and 5 of J102
and it seems like the transport isnt working well now, there is this tripping sound when i power on for the first. At the same time it is unable to read my disc.
Anyone have any idea on this. I suspect that i might not have connected the pin correctly and also the polarity of the ecaps being put in.
Help.....!
RF PCB
C107 47n cer. 120u/16V Elna RJH 321-3365
and insert extra 100n X7R between pins 4 and 5 of J102
and it seems like the transport isnt working well now, there is this tripping sound when i power on for the first. At the same time it is unable to read my disc.
Anyone have any idea on this. I suspect that i might not have connected the pin correctly and also the polarity of the ecaps being put in.
Help.....!
jksmurf said:
HI.
The Acoustica clock hack (with reg) significantly improves the existing onboard clock. (lowering the jitter)
Adding a low-jitter clock obviously replaces the on-board clock.
Hence OR.
The clock hack on its own makes a good improvement for little outlay. Adding its own reg. improves thing more.
An 'external' clock with PSU is more expensive but does offer even more improvement.
Hope this helps.
Andy
Andy
Thank you, yet it helps greatly to understand part of the why.
But could not (by extension) the Acoustica Clock Hack (ACH)make an aftermarket clock "better still", or is this diminishing return, no discernible gain? After all the ACH, it is free ...
wrt to the Reg, lets say I put in a PFM Flea with a Clock, does the Reg on the Flea displace/replace that shown (ALW photo) in the Acoustica Clock Mod?
k.
Thank you, yet it helps greatly to understand part of the why.
But could not (by extension) the Acoustica Clock Hack (ACH)make an aftermarket clock "better still", or is this diminishing return, no discernible gain? After all the ACH, it is free ...
wrt to the Reg, lets say I put in a PFM Flea with a Clock, does the Reg on the Flea displace/replace that shown (ALW photo) in the Acoustica Clock Mod?
k.
jksmurf said:
The aftermarket clock replaces the onboard clock. Fitting involves removing most/all of the onboard clock components. Therefore, the ACH would serve no purpose. The only part of the onboard clock used is the gate(s) built into the dac. Using a separate regulator to power this gate would possibly be an advantage and would certainly do no harm.
Andy