Glenn2 said:Hi chaps,
Quick question about tracking of CDRs....
My old CD-63 (now at my mum's) sometimes had a problem going from track to track. It persisted after I swapped the CDM12.1 for a brand-new VAM1202.... so I just put up with as it never skipped at all.
Well I'm using a CD-67SE these days and it does the same. Again, I've just put up with. In the four years I've had it (£50 mint from Cash Converters) it has never missed a beat, but still has trouble with certain CDRs. Mainly cyanine ones from Taiyo Yuden (Plextor brand).
I've just read that the CD6000 does this too, but there's a fix involving adding a 10pF cap to the transport PCB.
This got me thinking - did any of you have this problem AND manage to cure it in a similar way?
I have a spare (unused) VAM1202 in the cupboard for when this one dies.
Also, it seems to be much worse on discs burned with my Yamaha CRW3200E than my Plextor PX-755A.... so I just use the Plex these days (it's GigaRec feature is the same as Yamaha's AMQR).
Glenn
I have had problems on all sorts of players on cheaper discs. I always use Ritek dye discs and never get a bad burn (on a pioneer burner). Also I always burn at the slowest possible speed so the audio sounds good.
Brent
rowemeister said:
Well TY are supposed to be the best make there is (and Yamaha recommends this brand and supplies one with the drive!).
Ritek make some awful DVD-R discs and that puts me off them, though none of their CD-R I've had have gone bad yet.
I never burn beyond 4x (AMQR and GigaRec only let you do 4x and 8x anyway).
I found that CMC do not have this problem and they are supposed to be the worst around.
Of course I'm talking here about the actual brands, not the ones on the label.
Actually, I've noticed that it's only discs that are full to the brim.... meaning I would not have used AMQR (which reduces disc capacity) and would have burned at 1x using EAC.
Incidentally, Plextools C1/C2 and jitter tests give much better results on these TY burns than the CMC/Ritek ones.... maybe the cyanine dye being darker is a factor for the CDP.
It's only locating the tracks that proves problematic - there's NEVER any skipping.... although the Plex burns seems OK (only had that drive a short while). Odd...
Peter Venema said:Ray,
I just finished your besselfilter mod and i like it its just more natural even on my old Beyer DT880.
Try it later on the audio installation downstairs
Thanks for another great tought
what do think about the ferrite theory on the flat cable to the servoboard?
Peter
Hi Peter,
I'm glad you like it! It's hard to describe the difference in sound, but 'more natural' or 'less hi-fi' is close enough. The mid and highs become more pleasant to listen to. I think the ferrite could degrade the shape of the high-frequency signals in the flatcable, maybe enough influence to become audible. Btw, in the SA8400 they come standard on all flatcables: to display, transport and DAC. I guess the question is: does the sound change in a good way or not?
Glenn2 said:
Hi Glenn,
It could be done, the HDAM circuit is basically a discrete opamp. They use it like that in the CD6000 and the SA8400. If you insert the filter in the feedback-loop you're done. The second opamp doesn't amplify, because R606 = R612.
I share your feeling that a buffer should not be necessary, maybe something else is the cause.
I finally bought a new interconnect last weekend, the Nordost Blue Heaven. I thought the 8400 was held back a bit. Wow, did that make a difference! I thought my previous cable was ok, but this one blew it away! Amazing, where does it end? My amp, my player and speakers are still not at their top obviously. Point is: try to change some other components in your audio-chain if you have the chance. I could very well be the sound turns into something that makes you smile...
Anyone listen to the new Krall album yet
?Regards,
Ray
I take a number also...poynton said:
• Simon, mine with Ray's list cost me right now 150€. I don't now how much I'll go for clock/regs, maybe a eBay Kit around £150? In fact because of Franell I've paid more and have extra and useless parts left.
•• BG seems to be the top, but I think it's just useful when the rest of the player is at its top? (I mean useless for me
).••• I'm wuite scared after removing the DC block caps now also in the amp, where and how do I check this offset? Is it a voltage?
Thanks (and thanks for the disc to listen to tonight... Leftfield!)
SimontY said:Wow Ray, I'm sure that interconnect cost you big monies!
The Nordost wires are held in high esteem by reviewers and I'm sure they're great, but why do they use nasty Neutrik phonos?
Did you buy it second hand?
Simon
Want some ??
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nordost-Blue-...yZ116850QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nordost-Blue-...yZ116850QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nordost-Blue-...yZ116850QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NORDOST-BLUE-...yZ116850QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
My pair of AD826 samples from Analog Devices arrived today. I just put them in and everything's working again, so I'm glad that it was only the opamps that got killed by my incorrectly wired ±12V supply. Matthieu is very kindly sending me a pair of LM4562s so I can't wait to hear how they sound with the upgraded opamp supply.
adfinni said:
They do, and as I'm sure you're aware, it's difficult to know what you're buying. However, it's worth knowing that Plextor only put their brand name on TY so they're a safe bet.... and fairly cheap too.
Greg333 - AD826 take a lot of burning in and sound very bright at first. A film cap across the top between the rails will help stability too. They sound good in these players when implemented properly and they can handle the ultrasonic hash from this DAC without distorting. (High B/W, high slew rate, very low settling time, symmetrical design, very simple internally).
Ultimately they can sound a little lean but it really depends on the circuit conditions. They're like the LM6172 but a bit more musical IMO.
In some circuits though they can send your offsets skywards as they have comparatively huge input bias currents, and the with poor decoupling they can ring or oscillate.
poynton said:
mmmm cheap enough cheers
or
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NORDOST-VALKY...yZ116850QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Brent
SimontY said:Wow Ray, I'm sure that interconnect cost you big monies!
The Nordost wires are held in high esteem by reviewers and I'm sure they're great, but why do they use nasty Neutrik phonos?
Did you buy it second hand?
Simon
rowemeister said:
On the old pricelist I have it says 215 euros. But I was a bit surprised when I saw the price-tag in the hifi-store: Nordost decided to drop their prices and they saved some on the connectors. This is a rev. II that doesn't use those bulky Neutrik connectors anymore. It has the same ones the Solar Wind uses
. The pictures on their website are outdated. I bought it straight away, and paid 140 euros for it 
. I've been listening to it tonight, and i'm rediscovering my cd collection again! It's a big step forward for my setup. The detail and precision, amazing! And it's been only three days. But then again, I have a very nice amp . Highly recommended. Brent, if you can try a pair...
Makes me wonder how the Red Dawn will sound...
Ray
malefoda, just check at the centre output terminals of the RCA's on the rear with a DVM, set to dc, autoranging is best but work your way down say from a 10 volt range to the mV range. Ground to the outside of the RCA. Someone correct me if im wrong !
If you want to check pre output caps, ill have to look at the diagram, maybe someone will post before i do. One way is just solder a shorting link around the capacitor terminals and recheck the output dc offset again.
I had no problem with mine, offsett was low and there will be a coupling capacitor in your amp anyhow as long as you havnt bypassed that as well lol.
Dennis
If you want to check pre output caps, ill have to look at the diagram, maybe someone will post before i do. One way is just solder a shorting link around the capacitor terminals and recheck the output dc offset again.
I had no problem with mine, offsett was low and there will be a coupling capacitor in your amp anyhow as long as you havnt bypassed that as well lol.
Dennis