Hi Martin,
Thanks for your excellent answer.
I'll definitely leave the XO trafo supplying just the XO2 now that you've reinforced my own suspicions.
Gotta say (I know it's been said a million times), a new clock makes a world of difference to these players. Truly night and day.
Another thing, I was comparing the HDAM in the 67SE with the 6000 (the final one in the OSE/KI). They are internally identical but the 6000 one is configured as a 2nd-order LPF and differential to single-ended converter. It would be easy to open up the feedback loop of the HDAM in 67SE (i.e., cut one track) and then you've got your -ve and o/p connections. It could easily replace the 2nd half of the op-amp filter. It would be like in the 6000 output stage but with the +ve input to ground via 22k.
The thing is, I've been comparing avec and sans HDAM and the sound is better without it except in the LF region. With it set up to be inverting, a little gain, (and doing LPF duties) I might get the benefits of a discrete output stage (whatever they may be) but without the 100% NFB unity-gain buffer which seems harpoon some aspects of the sound.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for your excellent answer.
I'll definitely leave the XO trafo supplying just the XO2 now that you've reinforced my own suspicions.
Gotta say (I know it's been said a million times), a new clock makes a world of difference to these players. Truly night and day.
Another thing, I was comparing the HDAM in the 67SE with the 6000 (the final one in the OSE/KI). They are internally identical but the 6000 one is configured as a 2nd-order LPF and differential to single-ended converter. It would be easy to open up the feedback loop of the HDAM in 67SE (i.e., cut one track) and then you've got your -ve and o/p connections. It could easily replace the 2nd half of the op-amp filter. It would be like in the 6000 output stage but with the +ve input to ground via 22k.
The thing is, I've been comparing avec and sans HDAM and the sound is better without it except in the LF region. With it set up to be inverting, a little gain, (and doing LPF duties) I might get the benefits of a discrete output stage (whatever they may be) but without the 100% NFB unity-gain buffer which seems harpoon some aspects of the sound.
Any thoughts?
I've listened to my CD53 and my upgraded amp : OMG !!! It's soooo nice !
Lagaan : top produced, the woman voice has now some mouth sounds as tongue and wet lips (very hard to describe but I can hear it !!)
How terrifc it can (will) be with audiocom kit regs/clock ?? I' happy having the too high priced sound wich can't be bought when I bought my current system.. I think I can already amazed the shop keeper with the CD53!!
2 questions :
does my MKT 0,1u caps listed some post before are ok for bypassing my LM4562?
mmm I've forgotten the second one... I'm getting old...
Lagaan : top produced, the woman voice has now some mouth sounds as tongue and wet lips (very hard to describe but I can hear it !!)
How terrifc it can (will) be with audiocom kit regs/clock ?? I' happy having the too high priced sound wich can't be bought when I bought my current system.. I think I can already amazed the shop keeper with the CD53!!
2 questions :
does my MKT 0,1u caps listed some post before are ok for bypassing my LM4562?
mmm I've forgotten the second one... I'm getting old...
Malefoda
I just tried a ferrite on the flatcable from the servo to mainboard and the sound got different when i removed it!
I saw on your fotos that have a ferrite on this location aswell
please try to remove this and see if your "old sound" is coming back.
Because a ferrite is for removing HF and this HF is coming tru this cable to the saa digital servo and thus is degraded by the ferrite!!!
Peter
I just tried a ferrite on the flatcable from the servo to mainboard and the sound got different when i removed it!
I saw on your fotos that have a ferrite on this location aswell
please try to remove this and see if your "old sound" is coming back.
Because a ferrite is for removing HF and this HF is coming tru this cable to the saa digital servo and thus is degraded by the ferrite!!!
Peter
with your sound at home.
Nice work Ray - I've seen it around in this thread. Also reminds me a little of a vaguely similar circuit on Pedja Rogic's site.
Nobbling the HDAM from non-inverting G=1 buffer to do what the 2nd-half of the op-amp does looks like a quick tweak. I'm still pondering whether to try it or not.
Thing is with the HDAM bypassed I find the sound a little less together, even if more detailed.
My feeling is that a buffer should not be necessary when driving a 47k pre-amp, but somehow it's not that simple....
Nobbling the HDAM from non-inverting G=1 buffer to do what the 2nd-half of the op-amp does looks like a quick tweak. I'm still pondering whether to try it or not.
Thing is with the HDAM bypassed I find the sound a little less together, even if more detailed.
My feeling is that a buffer should not be necessary when driving a 47k pre-amp, but somehow it's not that simple....
Morning all!
I had a terrible sleepless night last night....why? Because I stressed myself out installing black gates and trying to put some Cerafines where they didn't want to fit! (motor driver caps)
Thankfully, the player still works, and I had a wee listen this morning, so...
Yes, Black Gates are good, worthy of the price and hype. Especially so if you value natural tonality and "ease" and naturalness of the sound.
There is no obvious extra detail and the timing, dynamics and bass impact even seem reduced, but the sound is sweet and natural. Imaging and the quality of textures is much better. The top end is less bright and over the top. But nothing is missing.
I've left it on repeat, and I'm looking forward to the bedded in and more run in result.
Simon
I had a terrible sleepless night last night....why? Because I stressed myself out installing black gates and trying to put some Cerafines where they didn't want to fit! (motor driver caps)
Thankfully, the player still works, and I had a wee listen this morning, so...
Yes, Black Gates are good, worthy of the price and hype. Especially so if you value natural tonality and "ease" and naturalness of the sound.
There is no obvious extra detail and the timing, dynamics and bass impact even seem reduced, but the sound is sweet and natural. Imaging and the quality of textures is much better. The top end is less bright and over the top. But nothing is missing.
I've left it on repeat, and I'm looking forward to the bedded in and more run in result.
Simon
nice one simon, but BG's are too expensive for a pennyless student like me 
Dennis, thanks mate, i can't to put them in and have a listen. Im getting more acustomed to my players sound now after trying some different cd's. Norah jones sounded sublime, but when i put leftfield - leftism in i was shocked by the soundstage and jsut how amazing the music sounded.
Dennis, thanks mate, i can't to put them in and have a listen. Im getting more acustomed to my players sound now after trying some different cd's. Norah jones sounded sublime, but when i put leftfield - leftism in i was shocked by the soundstage and jsut how amazing the music sounded.
Just curious if anyone has an extra KI TX laying around after all this modding? I'm looking for one ...
I'm still enjoying my player after the mods. I think my next step is to replace the analog discrete components with 1% or better and re-adjust the filter for a Bessel response curve to reduce treble emphasis.
I'll audition that for a while and last mod is a HagClock. Then I can wrap up the CD63 and move onto my next project ... converting a Motorola DCP501 into a 5-channel home theater Class-T power amp ...
I'm still enjoying my player after the mods. I think my next step is to replace the analog discrete components with 1% or better and re-adjust the filter for a Bessel response curve to reduce treble emphasis.
I'll audition that for a while and last mod is a HagClock. Then I can wrap up the CD63 and move onto my next project ... converting a Motorola DCP501 into a 5-channel home theater Class-T power amp ...
Re: cd 57 no sound and pops (help)
Hi Riccardo,
There are a few things you can try to isolate the problem.
Do you (or a friend) have a separate DAC, MiniDisc deck, CD recorder or amp with digital input? If you get OK sound from the digital output then the problem is either the DAC chip or analogue stage.
I assume by "Bum!" you are referring to a pop sound when you press play or stop?!
This could indicate the muting circuit has failed.... do you get good sound from the headphone jack?
Can you measure any DC coming out of the RCA jacks? There are blocking capacitors preventing it coming from the op-amps, but the muting transistors are after these.
WARNING - test with some old earbuds that you hate as if there is DC or other rubbish coming out if the h/p socket you could fry your phones.
riccardo said:
Hi Riccardo,
There are a few things you can try to isolate the problem.
Do you (or a friend) have a separate DAC, MiniDisc deck, CD recorder or amp with digital input? If you get OK sound from the digital output then the problem is either the DAC chip or analogue stage.
I assume by "Bum!" you are referring to a pop sound when you press play or stop?!
This could indicate the muting circuit has failed.... do you get good sound from the headphone jack?
Can you measure any DC coming out of the RCA jacks? There are blocking capacitors preventing it coming from the op-amps, but the muting transistors are after these.
WARNING - test with some old earbuds that you hate as if there is DC or other rubbish coming out if the h/p socket you could fry your phones.
adfinni said:nice one simon, but BG's are too expensive for a pennyless student like me
Dennis, thanks mate, i can't to put them in and have a listen. Im getting more acustomed to my players sound now after trying some different cd's. Norah jones sounded sublime, but when i put leftfield - leftism in i was shocked by the soundstage and jsut how amazing the music sounded.
The black gates needed are cheap mate. 4X 470uF 16V for the opamp or discrete are roughly £16.
220uf are even cheaper.
Brent
adfinni said:nice one simon, but BG's are too expensive for a pennyless student like me
Dennis, thanks mate, i can't to put them in and have a listen. Im getting more acustomed to my players sound now after trying some different cd's. Norah jones sounded sublime, but when i put leftfield - leftism in i was shocked by the soundstage and jsut how amazing the music sounded.
Norah can sound very nice, and yes, I am always surprised by Leftism - it's a nicely produced disc. The bass from Melt was insane the last time I heard it. I need to listen to it again tonight!
About BGs, no, they're not overly expensive from a good outlet (like Hifi Collective). I paid £25 or so for 9 of them and that's more or less all you need to do the important areas. A couple for the op-amps too and you're sorted for £30-35. Makes sense to those of us who pay £20 for a Super Regulator...
Simon
I wonder how much people are spending on their players.
With a couple of Super Regs, some Black Gates, the external supplies, oak feet, clock and various other parts I must have spent over £300 by now, plus £180 for the player. Not to mention countless hours reading and modifying.
What have others spent? I know most will have sought keener value, but with my limited electronics knowledge (particularly at the start) it makes sense to buy some things ready made.
With a £500 total spend my player would make a mockery of anything less than double, possibly triple the outlay.
Simon
With a couple of Super Regs, some Black Gates, the external supplies, oak feet, clock and various other parts I must have spent over £300 by now, plus £180 for the player. Not to mention countless hours reading and modifying.
What have others spent? I know most will have sought keener value, but with my limited electronics knowledge (particularly at the start) it makes sense to buy some things ready made.
With a £500 total spend my player would make a mockery of anything less than double, possibly triple the outlay.
Simon
Hi chaps,
Quick question about tracking of CDRs....
My old CD-63 (now at my mum's) sometimes had a problem going from track to track. It persisted after I swapped the CDM12.1 for a brand-new VAM1202.... so I just put up with as it never skipped at all.
Well I'm using a CD-67SE these days and it does the same. Again, I've just put up with. In the four years I've had it (£50 mint from Cash Converters ) it has never missed a beat, but still has trouble with certain CDRs. Mainly cyanine ones from Taiyo Yuden (Plextor brand).
I've just read that the CD6000 does this too, but there's a fix involving adding a 10pF cap to the transport PCB.
This got me thinking - did any of you have this problem AND manage to cure it in a similar way?
I have a spare (unused) VAM1202 in the cupboard for when this one dies.
Also, it seems to be much worse on discs burned with my Yamaha CRW3200E than my Plextor PX-755A.... so I just use the Plex these days (it's GigaRec feature is the same as Yamaha's AMQR).
Glenn
Quick question about tracking of CDRs....
My old CD-63 (now at my mum's) sometimes had a problem going from track to track. It persisted after I swapped the CDM12.1 for a brand-new VAM1202.... so I just put up with as it never skipped at all.
Well I'm using a CD-67SE these days and it does the same. Again, I've just put up with. In the four years I've had it (£50 mint from Cash Converters
) it has never missed a beat, but still has trouble with certain CDRs. Mainly cyanine ones from Taiyo Yuden (Plextor brand).I've just read that the CD6000 does this too, but there's a fix involving adding a 10pF cap to the transport PCB.
This got me thinking - did any of you have this problem AND manage to cure it in a similar way?
I have a spare (unused) VAM1202 in the cupboard for when this one dies.
Also, it seems to be much worse on discs burned with my Yamaha CRW3200E than my Plextor PX-755A.... so I just use the Plex these days (it's GigaRec feature is the same as Yamaha's AMQR).
Glenn