Re: I need money & holidays...
I'm glad you are still positive about your '53. The 'new' sound needs some getting used to, and maybe other weaknesses in the system are revealed. But that's the risk of changing things. The big advantage is: you can do it one step at a time, whenever you want. That's the fun! If you have the perfect system in two days, what's left to do for us? If the other components are really the bottleneck right now, the full difference between the DVP and CD53 is not fully exposed. I'm sure on a better system your '53 wil outperform the Philips easily.
Regards,
Ray
Malefoda said:Good evening gentlemen,
I've tried my Philips DVP5500S, a very good CD/SACD/DVD/Divxplayer for the money (130€ when new, less than 100 when at his end, 25 for me on eBay).
...
About my thought lost bass, no level diffrence between the players, so this may be in my mind, the records seems the same on both players. (I've tried to undo some mods, but seems no big change from the last big upgrade... maybe it's all in my head...).
So here are my feeling now:
My actual speakers and amp won't show the improvments on the CD player any further. They are too weak.
My room, known as my main sound problem, kills the sound, so the improvments are also.
The LM4562 get burnt, and they do not show bass as much as my AD8620 did. My CDP needs days to burn in.
I need holidays and to change my mind.
...
As you see I'm in trouble, so any coments, even negatives, are welcome. Thanks again all of you!
I'm glad you are still positive about your '53. The 'new' sound needs some getting used to, and maybe other weaknesses in the system are revealed. But that's the risk of changing things. The big advantage is: you can do it one step at a time, whenever you want. That's the fun! If you have the perfect system in two days, what's left to do for us? If the other components are really the bottleneck right now, the full difference between the DVP and CD53 is not fully exposed. I'm sure on a better system your '53 wil outperform the Philips easily.
Regards,
Ray
Re: 12v Psu
I finally got round to building this 12V PSU (post #3661) for the opamps on my CD53.
I get ±27V unloaded from the two rails, which I assume will drop down to a suitable level when loaded. The service manual shows ±20.8V after the 220uF caps, C803/C804.
Should I connect my new power supply before C803/804? These caps are also bypassed with 100nF Y5V.
Greg
disco said:
I finally got round to building this 12V PSU (post #3661) for the opamps on my CD53.
I get ±27V unloaded from the two rails, which I assume will drop down to a suitable level when loaded. The service manual shows ±20.8V after the 220uF caps, C803/C804.
Should I connect my new power supply before C803/804? These caps are also bypassed with 100nF Y5V.
Greg
Re: Re: 12v Psu
Hi Greg,
Why bother with a dedicated psu if you intend to run it through the long winding traces of the pcb? Wire it to the op-amps!
Perhaps I've missed some critical detail here
If you're not using muting, HDAM or 'phones you needn't touch the area near the original 12v regs and c803/4.
Simon
ps, I'm not an electonics guy but I think the rail voltage won't really drop unless your transformer is tiny (which would be pointless). So you need to use 35v caps before any regulators.
Greg3333 said:
Hi Greg,
Why bother with a dedicated psu if you intend to run it through the long winding traces of the pcb? Wire it to the op-amps!
Perhaps I've missed some critical detail here
If you're not using muting, HDAM or 'phones you needn't touch the area near the original 12v regs and c803/4.
Simon
ps, I'm not an electonics guy but I think the rail voltage won't really drop unless your transformer is tiny (which would be pointless). So you need to use 35v caps before any regulators.
Hi Simon,
I think that placing the regulators as close as possible to the part it has to feed is the way to go.
I just have relocated the 12V regulators to the empty HDAM space and the sound has become more solid and faster and
a wider soundstage was notabel aswell.
Maybe you have to do an experiment, leave the tranny in the external powersupply and the regulator in the cd player.
Peter
I think that placing the regulators as close as possible to the part it has to feed is the way to go.
I just have relocated the 12V regulators to the empty HDAM space and the sound has become more solid and faster and
a wider soundstage was notabel aswell.
Maybe you have to do an experiment, leave the tranny in the external powersupply and the regulator in the cd player.
Peter
Peter Venema said:
Hi Peter,
It's nice to hear what that mod does in isolation.
My player presently has 5 additional regulators inside (none external) and 2 external transformers. This is working well for the sound and I intend to keep going in the same vein, but I intend to use more good regulators and eventually lose all the 78xx parts.
Simon
im thinking of adding a seperate psu to power the analogue stage, and was wondering, where best to relocate q801/802, so it doesent go through all of the traces on the cds pcb
i had one thought of putting them on seperate pcb's then joining them with wire to r613 will this work or is it better just relocating them on the cd players pcb.
any help would be appreciated
i had one thought of putting them on seperate pcb's then joining them with wire to r613 will this work or is it better just relocating them on the cd players pcb.
any help would be appreciated
yo simon, i put the new caps in my speakers and they made a huge difference. The highs are much clearer but there were detrimental affects on the bass driver.
The sound is a lot... a LOT richer and there is much more bass, which is also tighter. But they seem to have lost some of the transparency, and especially depth of the music. E.g. in a quiet part of some crystal method song, when the drums came back in it felt as though they were miles behind my speakers then came forwards right at me. Now they just appear suddenly and there is no depth. Im thinking of removing the film caps linked to the bass driver.
Will put my clock in my 63 tonight too
The sound is a lot... a LOT richer and there is much more bass, which is also tighter. But they seem to have lost some of the transparency, and especially depth of the music. E.g. in a quiet part of some crystal method song, when the drums came back in it felt as though they were miles behind my speakers then came forwards right at me. Now they just appear suddenly and there is no depth. Im thinking of removing the film caps linked to the bass driver.
Will put my clock in my 63 tonight too
No, it's a mess!
I switched the wires and now have approx ±11.8V out of the two regs. Unfortunately, as suspected, I seem to have killed the opamps.
National won't let me have any 4562s. I just ordered a pair of AD826 to tide me over until I can get hold of a pair.
If anyone has two spare 4562s, I want to buy them! I could also swap for two AD8610 and two AD8510, which I was going to put on Browndogs.
I switched the wires and now have approx ±11.8V out of the two regs. Unfortunately, as suspected, I seem to have killed the opamps.
National won't let me have any 4562s. I just ordered a pair of AD826 to tide me over until I can get hold of a pair.
If anyone has two spare 4562s, I want to buy them! I could also swap for two AD8610 and two AD8510, which I was going to put on Browndogs.
Malefoda, here's the full list of what I've done to my CD53:
- New laser mechanism
- Headphone circuit bypassed by removing C901, C902, U271 and U272.
- Output muting circuit disabled by removing QN05, QN06, QN07 and QN08.
- Output RCAs replaced with gold-plated plugs and solid silver wiring.
- Output capacitors C655, C656, C657 and C658 removed and replaced with solid silver jumpers.
- Resonance damping using hot glue on CD transport, side panels and cover.
- Replaced Q811 5-volt regulator with LM340T-05
- Replaced first opamp resistors R601-R604 with 27k 1% resistors, hand matched to 0.1%
- Replaced first opamp resistors R605-R606, RD21-RD28 with 10k 1% resistors, hand matched to 0.1%
- Replaced PS diodes D801-804 and D811-814 with Schottky 11DQ10.
- Replaced opamps Q605 and Q606 with OPA2134 in DIL sockets
- Jumpered R613, R614, R615, R616
- Jumpered R619, R620
- Changed C611, C612, C613, C614 for Panasonic FC 470uF
- Bypassed CD12 and CD13 with 100nF stacked film
- Decoupled opamps with 33uF 50V Panasonic FC
- Acoustica clock hack
- Caps bypassed with 100nF Y5V: C803-806, C813-815, C611-614, CD07
- Dedicated ±12V PSU using 18VA 15-0-15 transformer, schottky diodes, 940uF, 39mH common mode chokes, 940uF, original 12V regs, wired directly to burned out opamps
- Killed OPA2134s, giving unique "under water" sound
I haven't been following exactly what you've done to yours but if it sounds anything like mine I don't see how you can be disappointed with the results.
Greg
- New laser mechanism
- Headphone circuit bypassed by removing C901, C902, U271 and U272.
- Output muting circuit disabled by removing QN05, QN06, QN07 and QN08.
- Output RCAs replaced with gold-plated plugs and solid silver wiring.
- Output capacitors C655, C656, C657 and C658 removed and replaced with solid silver jumpers.
- Resonance damping using hot glue on CD transport, side panels and cover.
- Replaced Q811 5-volt regulator with LM340T-05
- Replaced first opamp resistors R601-R604 with 27k 1% resistors, hand matched to 0.1%
- Replaced first opamp resistors R605-R606, RD21-RD28 with 10k 1% resistors, hand matched to 0.1%
- Replaced PS diodes D801-804 and D811-814 with Schottky 11DQ10.
- Replaced opamps Q605 and Q606 with OPA2134 in DIL sockets
- Jumpered R613, R614, R615, R616
- Jumpered R619, R620
- Changed C611, C612, C613, C614 for Panasonic FC 470uF
- Bypassed CD12 and CD13 with 100nF stacked film
- Decoupled opamps with 33uF 50V Panasonic FC
- Acoustica clock hack
- Caps bypassed with 100nF Y5V: C803-806, C813-815, C611-614, CD07
- Dedicated ±12V PSU using 18VA 15-0-15 transformer, schottky diodes, 940uF, 39mH common mode chokes, 940uF, original 12V regs, wired directly to burned out opamps
- Killed OPA2134s, giving unique "under water" sound
I haven't been following exactly what you've done to yours but if it sounds anything like mine I don't see how you can be disappointed with the results.
Greg
adfinni said:
Excellent mate! I knew you'd like those caps. But be patient, when I switched to those same caps in series with my tweeter it took a while for them to sound musically correct. They were impressive but overbright at first. Give them a couple of weeks and if there's still a problem then consider swapping them out again.
You will be impressed by the clock
Simon
Greg3333 said:No, it's a mess!
I switched the wires and now have approx ±11.8V out of the two regs. Unfortunately, as suspected, I seem to have killed the opamps.
National won't let me have any 4562s. I just ordered a pair of AD826 to tide me over until I can get hold of a pair.
If anyone has two spare 4562s, I want to buy them! I could also swap for two AD8610 and two AD8510, which I was going to put on Browndogs.
Hmm, shame you killed the op-amps, but at least it was only the cheap and readily available 2134. I have 3 4562s I'm not using but I intend to try them in my cd player so I'm afraid they're not available, for the moment. I need to see which I prefer out of 2x627 and 4562.
Out of curiousity, where do you live?
Simon
Greg3333 said:
Hi Greg3333,
first I have 5 of these left right now (I used my international company e-mail to order them free, it seems the are confident on me
). They are yours for free (I mean 2 of the 5), just hope post won't charge me too much! Tell me how to send it to you.Second, I really have the feeling the last upgrade killed some improvment (on the list only the Driver block, and the 4 more diodes from the new list, one 100nPPS under R813 and bypassed R619/620), but that's true the beast had no time to burn in some right now. Maybe the solid coper wire used to bypass the R619/620 does a bad work? Whatever, in fact my amp and speakers are budget ones (even if the best for buck at the time), maybe that's why...