Cheers il try to remember.
I did make one small mistake where i cut the ground line where i cut the output line after each of the regs
Managed to bodge something back together do the whole ground line is know linked again.
il be doing a few more checks before i even think about putting the board in, and will it be wise to run the grounding wires for the individual regs to a star ground, as im thinking of wiring up one of those badboyz ?
I did make one small mistake where i cut the ground line where i cut the output line after each of the regs
Managed to bodge something back together do the whole ground line is know linked again.
il be doing a few more checks before i even think about putting the board in, and will it be wise to run the grounding wires for the individual regs to a star ground, as im thinking of wiring up one of those badboyz ?
adfinni said:will it be wise to run the grounding wires for the individual regs to a star ground, as im thinking of wiring up one of those badboyz ?
Hi Adam,
Yes, of course it's wise, it improves the sound. If you want to wire most of the important circuits to it though, prepare for some pain in the bum soldering. There's a lot to join together on one spot, so have lots of cheap leaded solder handy otherwise it could be hard work.
Simon
adfinni said:Im back..................... well to the modding anyway
Thanks to brent for the 5V pcb schematic, and simon for putting up with my noobism over msn
Always a pleasure, never a chore, I'm just glad you're back at it and haven't given up yet. Please be extra careful, things like triple checking there are no shorts and checking the voltages just before you hook it up. It's so easy to blow things up.
Ive just bought a CD6000 OSE. Im going to mod this next.
Its got a 5v for micro section and one for dac and decoder section.
So Marantz are slowly improving over the years LOL
It has a plug in HDAM pcb (discrete) in place of the op amps (opamps are on cd6000) and dual DAC.
Should sound pretty good when modded
Brent
Its got a 5v for micro section and one for dac and decoder section.
So Marantz are slowly improving over the years LOL
It has a plug in HDAM pcb (discrete) in place of the op amps (opamps are on cd6000) and dual DAC.
Should sound pretty good when modded
Brent
rowemeister said:
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6h5c said:
There's the ones that fix things, and there's the ones that blow things up. It's some kind of symbiosis.
Ray
Too true Raymond, too true! I'm super careful with mine now. Barely dared open it since the rebuild. But this last mod was well worth the risk
SimontY said:Too true Raymond, too true! I'm super careful with mine now. Barely dared open it since the rebuild. But this last mod was well worth the risk
Yeah, there's always that urge to open it up again, even if there's a risk of breaking things. Luckily a spare 63 or 67 is not that expensive
.Ray
Edit...... Couldnt edit my last post for some reason.
Well farnell were out of silvered mica 100pF and 120pF caps to use in the output area at C605-608 so i ordered some LCR 100pF and 470pF caps (952.0791 and 952/0660) instead. Are these safe to use in those locations, because after recieving them they seem to have a blue band near one of the ends, and are bright silver in colour
Well farnell were out of silvered mica 100pF and 120pF caps to use in the output area at C605-608 so i ordered some LCR 100pF and 470pF caps (952.0791 and 952/0660) instead. Are these safe to use in those locations, because after recieving them they seem to have a blue band near one of the ends, and are bright silver in colour
rowemeister said:
Hi.
Watch out for lifting tracks ! Worse than the CD63 in my experience.
Also the connector sockets (?) have a habit of being badly soldered. One had a gap of 2mm underneath with the result that the tracks lifted/cracked when I replaced the connector (tray motor)
The HF board has a habit of going faulty with power surges. Not interchangable with the '63.
Sound from the OSE and the KI is excellent in standard form.
( I have just repaired both )
Andy
Hi there,
I've found in office this power supply :
This stuff can deliver 5v, but I think there are different types of PSU, maybe some worst than the OEM. Any idea, things I have to check on it, is it useful?
Thanks
I've found in office this power supply :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This stuff can deliver 5v, but I think there are different types of PSU, maybe some worst than the OEM. Any idea, things I have to check on it, is it useful?
Thanks
I've been listening to the modded player and the extra detail, clarity and smoothness are great.
I was hoping to inject a little bit of warmth into it and was thinking about doing resistor swaps for Riken Ohm carbons because I read they have a warmer sound and are low noise in comparison to other carbon resistors.
What are your thought?
Cheers,
Simon (Oz)
I was hoping to inject a little bit of warmth into it and was thinking about doing resistor swaps for Riken Ohm carbons because I read they have a warmer sound and are low noise in comparison to other carbon resistors.
What are your thought?
Cheers,
Simon (Oz)
adfinni said:Edit...... Couldnt edit my last post for some reason.
Well farnell were out of silvered mica 100pF and 120pF caps to use in the output area at C605-608 so i ordered some LCR 100pF and 470pF caps (952.0791 and 952/0660) instead. Are these safe to use in those locations, because after recieving them they seem to have a blue band near one of the ends, and are bright silver in colour
They look a bit different (they are axial polystyrene caps), but they are perfectly suited for the job. The blue band indicates the start of the foil and should be connected towards GND or an opamp's output, e.g. a low-impedance point.
Regards,
Ray
YoungSC said:I've been listening to the modded player and the extra detail, clarity and smoothness are great.
I was hoping to inject a little bit of warmth into it and was thinking about doing resistor swaps for Riken Ohm carbons because I read they have a warmer sound and are low noise in comparison to other carbon resistors.
On the other hand, Holco resistors are even cheaper, so please add your comments on those.
I should put things in context. My speakers are based on modified Fostex 206E's. They are quite revealing and bright and therefore I don't think I want to go down the path of metal film.
Yes I know they're metal film (at least at parts connexion)
I've heard they have a warm sound though.
What are your thought?
Cheers,
Simon (Oz)
Hi Simon,
In general, metal films sound brighter compared to carbon resistors. But between metal films, you can divide them into (too) bright ones and less bright ones. Holco's are in the last group, I don't think they are too bright. I've heard awful carbons too.
What kind of resistors are you using now? And what kind of interconnect between your player and amp? Different resistors will change the sound a bit, but there are other factors that have more impact. I would advise not to inject warmth, but to search for the factor that makes your system a bit too bright now. Try some listening with another player, so you can evaluate if your's really has become too bright, or in fact more neutral, and you just have to get used to the change in sound.
Regards,
Ray