LOL Simon.....no pain, no gain hehehehehe
They are good, im sure you could prob get cost lower if you select carefully
They aint cheap as chips but are pretty good connectors, reliable and solid. I have used them before in some applications and had no problems whatsoever.
Maybe a finishing touch to the project once you are happy with the main results ?
Dennis
ImSparticus said:
Hi Dennis,
I dunno mate, I think those DIN are lovely and a good price. Plus I have a Farnell account and not an RS one.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and 
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
£3.21 and £3.58.
And I'll wire those pups with
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also I'd like the cord to be fully detachable so I need two of each. That's why the price needs full consideration.
It'll perhaps be treated to one of these too:
Apologies to dialup people.
Simon
Malefoda said:Hi there, seems my question has been lost
What may I do with my CD53's R619/R620, 10 ohms, wich replace the HDAM? Put a jumper wire instead? ( I've upgraded the PCB with Ray's list, including the resistors around the RCA and Ray's value ).
Go ahead and try it! I can't imagine a 10R resistor there will make much difference compared to a piece of wire.
Simon
Malefoda said:Hi there, seems my question has been lost
What may I do with my CD53's R619/R620, 10 ohms, wich replace the HDAM? Put a jumper wire instead? ( I've upgraded the PCB with Ray's list, including the resistors around the RCA and Ray's value ).
Hi,
These can be replaced by a jumper. But you can also bypass all this and use one wire from U210/214 straight to the RCA section. That will save you some solder joints in the signal path
. Like this.Regards,
Ray
Reversing a mod
Hi everyone..
Can anyone actually remember how much the servo / divider mod achieved to system performance?
I'll like to reverse the mod, mainly because it's ugly implemented, and because I'll like to save my Flea (not my Tent Flea of cause, one of the others) from supplying this nasty noisy 74x74 and letting it supply only the 5V-digital to the DAC.
Hi everyone..
Can anyone actually remember how much the servo / divider mod achieved to system performance?
I'll like to reverse the mod, mainly because it's ugly implemented, and because I'll like to save my Flea (not my Tent Flea of cause, one of the others) from supplying this nasty noisy 74x74 and letting it supply only the 5V-digital to the DAC.
Re: Reversing a mod
Unfortunately I didn't hear a solid before and after test because I broke my player trying to make it work and it needed rebuilding! But when it came back the sound was far superior. The servo clock mod was seen as the main source of the improvement. I wish I could say with more certainty, but Brent also moved my 12v regs for me, and repositioned some caps. I know Brent feels strongly that it is worthwhile, particularly improving the treble.
Simon
avr300 said:
Unfortunately I didn't hear a solid before and after test because I broke my player trying to make it work and it needed rebuilding! But when it came back the sound was far superior. The servo clock mod was seen as the main source of the improvement. I wish I could say with more certainty, but Brent also moved my 12v regs for me, and repositioned some caps. I know Brent feels strongly that it is worthwhile, particularly improving the treble.
Simon
Im back..................... well to the modding anyway
Just replaced most of the caps with the rubycon ZL's from my dead player, a few cerafines and silmic's that i had lying around, and even a few new pana FC's. Schottky diodes went in around the PSU section too.
Have to say the player does sound a little better even without any changes to the clock, op-amp area, HDAM removal and regs.
Built my 5V reg PCB with x2 Audiocom super-regs (decoder digi+analogue), and a 7805 for the Xtal. Used some 16V/220uF silmics from my other dead players as the main caps and some little yellow plastic 1uF/63V caps for smoothing. Will hopefully install it this weekend along with my clock +psu, op-amps, and a total overhaul of the out stage
Thanks to brent for the 5V pcb schematic, and simon for putting up with my noobism over msn
Il get pics up this weekend of my modded chassis, and some high-res internal pics.
p.s. i found out from national that my orders are not going through because they don't ship to educational institutions like university's FFS, just because i have a uni email address. il send them an email pointing out that im a student and my address (if they bothered to look) is residential.
Just replaced most of the caps with the rubycon ZL's from my dead player, a few cerafines and silmic's that i had lying around, and even a few new pana FC's. Schottky diodes went in around the PSU section too.
Have to say the player does sound a little better even without any changes to the clock, op-amp area, HDAM removal and regs.
Built my 5V reg PCB with x2 Audiocom super-regs (decoder digi+analogue), and a 7805 for the Xtal. Used some 16V/220uF silmics from my other dead players as the main caps and some little yellow plastic 1uF/63V caps for smoothing. Will hopefully install it this weekend along with my clock +psu, op-amps, and a total overhaul of the out stage
Thanks to brent for the 5V pcb schematic, and simon for putting up with my noobism over msn
Il get pics up this weekend of my modded chassis, and some high-res internal pics.p.s. i found out from national that my orders are not going through because they don't ship to educational institutions like university's
FFS, just because i have a uni email address. il send them an email pointing out that im a student and my address (if they bothered to look) is residential.
Re: Reversing a mod
Well first of all ill say is do it. Its such a simple mod too.
Before the servo mod splashy high trebles like symbols sounded ok but with the servo clock pcb fitted the detail was superb. Symbols sounded like symbols (like they would when listening live).
I removed the clock pcb to test again and the same symbols sounded like white noise in comparision.
I found the timing and bass improved also. It improves every aspect of the sound.
Think about it you have improved the quality of the signal from the Decoder to the output so far, and the servo handles an even more delicate signal the this needs addressing (the coax worked from servo to decoder).
Also running the servo clock pcb on a super reg really improved the sound also.
Trust me im a cd doctor
Brent
avr300 said:
Well first of all ill say is do it. Its such a simple mod too.
Before the servo mod splashy high trebles like symbols sounded ok but with the servo clock pcb fitted the detail was superb. Symbols sounded like symbols (like they would when listening live).
I removed the clock pcb to test again and the same symbols sounded like white noise in comparision.
I found the timing and bass improved also. It improves every aspect of the sound.
Think about it you have improved the quality of the signal from the Decoder to the output so far, and the servo handles an even more delicate signal the this needs addressing (the coax worked from servo to decoder).
Also running the servo clock pcb on a super reg really improved the sound also.
Trust me im a cd doctor
Brent
adfinni said:Thanks to brent for the 5V pcb schematic, and simon for putting up with my noobism over msn
No probs mate.
Make sure you have 5v output from the regs before you wire them in. We dont want more fire damage
Also remember to cut the link U200 when wiring regs in. People forget about this.
Brent