Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

rowemeister said:
Isolation makes soooo much difference as does mains cables and mains filtering. I use the Russ Andrews Torlyte plats. Bass extension is better + the midband and treble is effortless.

I agree Brent, and I've not even tried the lovely Torlyte gear! But I am convinced the materials used are important, and as you have glass shelves on your rack, you really needed the torylte!

Mains filtering, yes, these parallel capacitor filters do seem to work (deep, rich bass and a big soundstage). Why don't you post a pic of your monster?

I was amazed at the difference a fancy power cable made on my cd player recently!

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
SimontY said:


I agree Brent, and I've not even tried the lovely Torlyte gear! But I am convinced the materials used are important, and as you have glass shelves on your rack, you really needed the torylte!

Mains filtering, yes, these parallel capacitor filters do seem to work (deep, rich bass and a big soundstage). Why don't you post a pic of your monster?

I was amazed at the difference a fancy power cable made on my cd player recently!


Changing my mains cable from the Russ Andrews Yello to the Reference mains lead brought out much cleaner vocals and better timing.

Ahh yes my monster mains noise purifier LOL

Fitted with 3 pole (Super and Mega clamp) surge and spike protection

PIC 1

PIC 2

DIAGRAM
 
Zombie said:
The most worthwhile mod on the CD63 is to match the 10k and 27k resistors after the DAC within 0,1% or better. IMHO this is needed to get the full potential of better opamps, better caps and the other mods...
This mod balances the differential circuit and significanlty reduces common noise coming out of the DAC. Or kick out the entire analogue section and use an output xformer instead.

Hi.

This is an interesting point.

The DAC in the CD63/73 has a balanced output. So it stands to reason that what follows should be balanced to ensure optimum noise rejection. All components after the DAC should be chosen with care for same value and tolerence not just the resistors. This was refered to in one of the original articles on modding the CD63/73.

Ray's discrete output stage ( and my tube output ) are as near balanced as possible. The input stage of most opamps, however, is far from balanced. One exception to this is the LM6171 / 6172 which has a symmetric input stage.

One of these days I will get round to testing a LM6171/OPA627 combination !!

Andy
 
ImSparticus said:


Ill search for a bit more on the mention of feeding the HF signal via coax. I can never find any coax that i fancy if u see what i mean. Maybe the better option is a thin audiophile silver plated or solid interconnect cable feeding to the rear RCA connectors also.


If you have some old Philips / Marantz players, they used a very thin coax to take the HF signal from the CDM to the decoder board.

Andy
 
Kinda off topic but the cd 63 benefits from a nice clean ac supply, a nice as you can provide makes a difference.

This is what i call a monster overkill filter, just lobbed it together out of spare bits, see how it sounds. Four 240 to 110 volt trannies, 2 belling lee massive potted rf filters, one for the cd63 and the other for the amp. Trannies mounted on rubber bushes. Didnt think it made that much diffrence for the size and weight (@ 40 kgs). Im still a little reserved on mains filters and leads. You need a balanced feed, good connetcions and a good earth. You have to be aware how power factor correction works and vectors, ie, leading and laging of voltage and current.

The mains cables are home made, 4mm sq silver plated, woven and screened from plug end only, polished and treated MK heavy plugs. Have a seperate run of silver plated 4mm cable screended and seperate earth to consumer unit, now that does make a difference, the player sounds way better anytime of day. Obviously i have iec on rear of the 63ki, also doing same to the amp next and fitting gold or silver plated iec throughout.

Dennis
 
SimontY said:
It may be important to add power supply decoupling right under the pins (of the socket - use a socket so you can compare op-amps easily). I use Panasonic FC 33uF/50v and they work well. These go from + to earth and - to earth. I think + and - are pins 4 and 8 on the op-amps. Simon

Thanks Simon, (please pardon my ignorance) presumably "decoupling is what was meant by "Using a set of 4# 3.6kOhm resistors.... on the underside of the board, you will have to solder these four small 3.6K-ohm resistors--one from pin 4 to pin 1 and another from pin 4 to pin 7 on EACH of the OPA2604's (take them out of the sockets first, if you're smart!)" which I gleaned from the sites I mention above?

I will have to get my wife to check the datasheet for the correct +/- pins on the LM4562, but Ray wrote 4 and 8 too. It was funny, I was searching for these last night and she looked over my shoulder and said LM, yeah and waffled on about something or other related to who made them and how easy they were to get, so I'm relieved at least she knows ...

SimontY said:
Or did you mean the order to do mods generally?
mods generally. Thanks you very much for your list. Now I just have to look at rays service manual and point out where everything goes....

6 - Use add-on clock (Superclock etc) to reclock DAC / replace crystal.
There seems to be a plethora of clocks... Kwak 7 (DIY), Tent XO, LCClock XO, Superclock ... What's the easiest install / good value assuming my wife can make the Kwak?

... carry out all ... and not consider the CD63ki a very high end music machine.
Mine's a 67SE, presumably all 10 still apply?

k.
 
Hi Guys, I will have some spare time in the next couple of weeks. I am thinking of finally replacing the opamps in my CD63. I have read through the pages here but am still a little lost. I might have missed out some information somewhere. I have some OPA124 to use also, I've read that this can be used after the DAC?

a) If I were to use opa627, I need 2 of these to replace each 2114?

b) If I use the LM4562 then it is just a direct replacement for the 2114?

Thank you in advance :)
 
disco said:


What are those caps doing in your lunchbox Brent? Vitamin E?

Butteh, without the surge part, would it be beneficial to put two 30uF PIO caps between L&N and N&E for the middle part, or are the capacitance values scientifically calculated? The iron is hot...:devilr:
Regards, Jaap

I used all those 8uF caps as I had them laying about. I have been bying Russ Andrews mains products and have been ripping them apart. The dearer the purifiers get the larger the capacitance get + the quality of caps get better.

Brent
 
:smash: Just can't emphasise enough that perfect matching of the 10k and 27k resistors afte the DAC is necessary to reap full benefits of what is done in the analogue circuit. What's even better, it might be for free!

Cheap alternative: locate other 10/27k resistors on the board (headphone amp), desolder, match within 0.1% (or better) and solder back those that didn't match in the other locations.

Expensive alternative: buy a lot of 1% 10k/27k resistors, or even better, match them in the shop, or buy the right amount of resistors with 0.1% tolerance. The better the match, the better the result!

After you've matched, THEN you start can talking opamps, caps, shottkys, clock mods, separate regulators, etc etc :smash:
(IMHO better opamps just let you hear all the crap that comes out of the DAC much better)
 
ImSparticus said:
Kinda off topic but the cd 63 benefits from a nice clean ac supply, a nice as you can provide makes a difference.

This is what i call a monster overkill filter, just lobbed it together out of spare bits, see how it sounds. Four 240 to 110 volt trannies, 2 belling lee massive potted rf filters, one for the cd63 and the other for the amp. Trannies mounted on rubber bushes. Didnt think it made that much diffrence for the size and weight (@ 40 kgs). Im still a little reserved on mains filters and leads. You need a balanced feed, good connetcions and a good earth. You have to be aware how power factor correction works and vectors, ie, leading and laging of voltage and current.

The mains cables are home made, 4mm sq silver plated, woven and screened from plug end only, polished and treated MK heavy plugs. Have a seperate run of silver plated 4mm cable screended and seperate earth to consumer unit, now that does make a difference, the player sounds way better anytime of day. Obviously i have iec on rear of the 63ki, also doing same to the amp next and fitting gold or silver plated iec throughout.

Dennis


Mains products DO make a difference, even review mags agree these days. But the gains are down to how bad you mains actually is.
One of the worst culprits for ruining your mains noise is crappy extension leads! changing these for quality items makes a big difference to the sound, cleaning your plug pins also makes a difference.
It is actually quite worrying how much mains noise effects the sound.Here in the UK we have very good quality mains so I hate to think what its like in other countries where the supply is less stable.

I could rant on all day LOL but I won't

Brent
 
Zombie said:
:smash: Just can't emphasise enough that perfect matching of the 10k and 27k resistors afte the DAC is necessary to reap full benefits of what is done in the analogue circuit. What's even better, it might be for free!

Cheap alternative: locate other 10/27k resistors on the board (headphone amp), desolder, match within 0.1% (or better) and solder back those that didn't match in the other locations.

Expensive alternative: buy a lot of 1% 10k/27k resistors, or even better, match them in the shop, or buy the right amount of resistors with 0.1% tolerance. The better the match, the better the result!

After you've matched, THEN you start can talking opamps, caps, shottkys, clock mods, separate regulators, etc etc :smash:
(IMHO better opamps just let you hear all the crap that comes out of the DAC much better)

I fitted 0.1% resistors around the op amps and gained a little more detail.

Brent