I have to agree with Simon.
For me the OPA2604 is very bright and brittle sounding. At first it sounds like there is loads of open sound, but in reality its very harsh and false.
It maybe perfect in other players but the 63/67 players defo prefer a more natural op amp.
The OPA2134 is a favorite of mine, its not the best but its superb value for money. If cost is less of an issue the OPA627 / OPA132 on brown dogs is a good combo. Im waiting on this new opamp to arrive to test.
Brent
For me the OPA2604 is very bright and brittle sounding. At first it sounds like there is loads of open sound, but in reality its very harsh and false.
It maybe perfect in other players but the 63/67 players defo prefer a more natural op amp.
The OPA2134 is a favorite of mine, its not the best but its superb value for money. If cost is less of an issue the OPA627 / OPA132 on brown dogs is a good combo. Im waiting on this new opamp to arrive to test.
Brent
I agree with both of you. I really don't like the 2604.
The 2134 sounds very musical. It has a tube like characteristic, warm and smooth. High is till clean and clear.
The opa627 gives more details. But not much better than the 2134. Probably I have not been able to get the best of of it yet. I used the 627 with single to dual PCB. This may not be ideal.
Have anyone modified both a marantz cd-63/67 and some marantz/philips machines with tda1541a and compared them?
The 2134 sounds very musical. It has a tube like characteristic, warm and smooth. High is till clean and clear.
The opa627 gives more details. But not much better than the 2134. Probably I have not been able to get the best of of it yet. I used the 627 with single to dual PCB. This may not be ideal.
Have anyone modified both a marantz cd-63/67 and some marantz/philips machines with tda1541a and compared them?
Thank you, you have been incredibly patient with all the folks this whole thread.6h5c said:Hi, and welcome to this thread.
[/QUOTE]the guys in the thread you linked to are mixing up the two different models CD63 and CD67.[/QUOTE]Ah, I see... oops, sorry ...
I do have it, but I think I will need my wife to decipher it
Ah, yes ...well, what brought me to this thread in the first place was the ERR 02 disc error on my 67SE. There appears to be two issues (a) The laser and (b) The controller chip. I am still nto 100% sure WHICH ones needs repalcing though.... and having read through hundreds of posts on this and other sites, I though while I'm in there repairing, it why not make it better while I'm at it. Fascinating stuff you document here. Incredible.
Well I'd like to take it very slowly and do the simple things first...
Cheers
k.
SimontY said:
Cheers Simon, I will do. A direct swap is good for me, so there doesn't have to be a special set-up, so if the LM6172 is the cat's PJ's, I'm all for it ...my Wife (not the big W... ) can get most stuff as samples, not sure about that though.
If you had to choose 1, 2, 3 etc, from the above list, any thoughts of which 10 or which order?
k.
rowemeister said:
Cheers Brent, you have posted like a wild thing too, it'd be interesting to see the stats for the top 5 posters on THIS thread! Cost is generally less of an issue (if the brown-dog thingy is not too difficult to do) so with that in mind a drop-in solution is still preferred.
k.
Zombie, I wish I was au fait with Elect Components to understand what exactly you are talking about, but unfortunately I'm a very different kind of Engineer althogether! Small steps, and slowly at this stage. The list paraphrases several websites and forums to produce a more what-to-do-now format, which I can giev to my wife to follow through...Zombie said:
Cheers
k.
jksmurf said:
Hi, if you mean which order for the above op-amps, ok, best first:
1 - LM4562
2 - OPA2134 (or 2132)
3 - LM6172
4 - OPA2604
OPA627 is fiddly and expensive, and the 4562 is very nice so it would make a fine starting point to drop in. You can order free samples from their website: http://www.national.com/pf/master.html.
It may be important to add power supply decoupling right under the pins (of the socket - use a socket so you can compare op-amps easily). I use Panasonic FC 33uF/50v and they work well. These go from + to earth and - to earth. I think + and - are pins 4 and 8 on the op-amps.
Simon
Or did you mean the order to do mods generally?
If so, here's what I'd think about doing, if I could start again and if I had all the right parts, tools and knowledge:
1 - Correct feet: 3 hard cones or better
2 - Damp chassis with bitumen or wood etc.
3 - Shield chips and connect HF signal from mech to main pcb with coax
4 - Black Gate or other good caps all over the player, small local decoupling caps
5 - Separate dedicated power supplies with low-noise regulators for different circuits. At least separate analogue and digital as much as possible. Time to implement a star earth too!
6 - Use add-on clock (Superclock etc) to reclock DAC / replace crystal
7 - Reclock servo with same clock (needs divider circuit - see Brent's list)
8 - Good op-amps, like LM4562, bypassed under pcb
9 - Bypass HDAM circuit and add new phono sockets
10 - Remove connections to muting and headphones circuits, freeing up 12v for op-amps only
The first mods will reduce the terrible "hi-fi" sound. Then you reduce the noise, then some more. Now it will be getting better but still not great. Then you reclock and you'll be enjoying it a lot, then the servo and this is getting good. Then op-amps and you can now appreciate their charms, bypass the hdam and kill the other parts to really let the player shine in all ways. Now you will have music and detail with killer bass and a good clean top end. Emotion.
Feel free to mention anything I've missed. The order may not be quite optimal.
Obviously you could then upgrade the filter components (those orange caps), changing them to polystryene, polypropylene (not likely) or silvered mica. And the resistors around the op-amps. Don't use metal film though as this can harm the sound. I didn't mention these parts in the 10 mods list above because you might want to change the whole section for a discrete add-on board at a later stage. Also I'm not convinced they make as much difference as all the other things.
I don't think anyone could carry out ALL of those 10 mods and not consider the CD63ki a very high end music machine.
Simon
If so, here's what I'd think about doing, if I could start again and if I had all the right parts, tools and knowledge:
1 - Correct feet: 3 hard cones or better
2 - Damp chassis with bitumen or wood etc.
3 - Shield chips and connect HF signal from mech to main pcb with coax
4 - Black Gate or other good caps all over the player, small local decoupling caps
5 - Separate dedicated power supplies with low-noise regulators for different circuits. At least separate analogue and digital as much as possible. Time to implement a star earth too!
6 - Use add-on clock (Superclock etc) to reclock DAC / replace crystal
7 - Reclock servo with same clock (needs divider circuit - see Brent's list)
8 - Good op-amps, like LM4562, bypassed under pcb
9 - Bypass HDAM circuit and add new phono sockets
10 - Remove connections to muting and headphones circuits, freeing up 12v for op-amps only
The first mods will reduce the terrible "hi-fi" sound. Then you reduce the noise, then some more. Now it will be getting better but still not great. Then you reclock and you'll be enjoying it a lot, then the servo and this is getting good. Then op-amps and you can now appreciate their charms, bypass the hdam and kill the other parts to really let the player shine in all ways. Now you will have music and detail with killer bass and a good clean top end. Emotion.
Feel free to mention anything I've missed. The order may not be quite optimal.
Obviously you could then upgrade the filter components (those orange caps), changing them to polystryene, polypropylene (not likely) or silvered mica. And the resistors around the op-amps. Don't use metal film though as this can harm the sound. I didn't mention these parts in the 10 mods list above because you might want to change the whole section for a discrete add-on board at a later stage. Also I'm not convinced they make as much difference as all the other things.
I don't think anyone could carry out ALL of those 10 mods and not consider the CD63ki a very high end music machine.
Simon
rowemeister, i have a Goodmans player but id never admit to it, and some discrete Binatone items (discrete as in i have hidden them to save embarrasment !)
I always say, if it dont sound good, then smash it up aaaarrrgggghhhhh
Ill search for a bit more on the mention of feeding the HF signal via coax. I can never find any coax that i fancy if u see what i mean. Maybe the better option is a thin audiophile silver plated or solid interconnect cable feeding to the rear RCA connectors also.
I will post some pics of my speaker isolation bases, and also the CD isolator, sand filled (in the appropriate forum). If you are considering mods to equipment, you need to consider all other things first such as isolation and power feeds.
Dennis
I always say, if it dont sound good, then smash it up aaaarrrgggghhhhh
Ill search for a bit more on the mention of feeding the HF signal via coax. I can never find any coax that i fancy if u see what i mean. Maybe the better option is a thin audiophile silver plated or solid interconnect cable feeding to the rear RCA connectors also.
I will post some pics of my speaker isolation bases, and also the CD isolator, sand filled (in the appropriate forum). If you are considering mods to equipment, you need to consider all other things first such as isolation and power feeds.
Dennis
ImSparticus said:
LOL, nice stat! You need to use coax for that HF feed, as it's stuff you don't want leaking out into the rest of the player. I used fairly ordinary solid core copper with silver plated braid, and that did the job. You'll hear a less aggressive top end. More inviting sound.
Hi All,
Brent, I'm glad you're happy with the Alba stuff! LOL!
Simonty, thanks for the link to the national sample orders. I now have some lm6172 hopefully on the way. How long does it take for them to deliver?
I have had professional experience of Alba and Bush STB hardware development, and it would be unprofessional of me to comment
Glad the CD63 developments are still ongoing! Mine died a death a while back, but there's definitely a huge return on investment with these players.
Cheers,
Phil
Brent, I'm glad you're happy with the Alba stuff! LOL!
Simonty, thanks for the link to the national sample orders. I now have some lm6172 hopefully on the way. How long does it take for them to deliver?
I have had professional experience of Alba and Bush STB hardware development, and it would be unprofessional of me to comment
Glad the CD63 developments are still ongoing! Mine died a death a while back, but there's definitely a huge return on investment with these players.
Cheers,
Phil
philpoole said:
Hi Phil,
My order only took about 5 working days. Something like that. If you have one, provde an e-mail address other than a Hotmail one. Then you might not be charged for delivery!
Also, wouldn't you rather try LM4562 before LM6172?
You can always order another type a week later
Simon
ImSparticus said:rowemeister, i have a Goodmans player but id never admit to it, and some discrete Binatone items (discrete as in i have hidden them to save embarrasment !)
I always say, if it dont sound good, then smash it up aaaarrrgggghhhhh
Ill search for a bit more on the mention of feeding the HF signal via coax. I can never find any coax that i fancy if u see what i mean. Maybe the better option is a thin audiophile silver plated or solid interconnect cable feeding to the rear RCA connectors also.
I will post some pics of my speaker isolation bases, and also the CD isolator, sand filled (in the appropriate forum). If you are considering mods to equipment, you need to consider all other things first such as isolation and power feeds.
Dennis
Isolation makes soooo much difference as does mains cables and mains filtering. I use the Russ Andrews Torlyte plats. Bass extension is better + the midband and treble is effortless.
Pic below shows cdp and amp on torlyte plats. Yammy at bottom also on one.
see plats here
and here on RA web site
RA web site
philpoole said:Hi All,
Brent, I'm glad you're happy with the Alba stuff! LOL!
Simonty, thanks for the link to the national sample orders. I now have some lm6172 hopefully on the way. How long does it take for them to deliver?
I have had professional experience of Alba and Bush STB hardware development, and it would be unprofessional of me to comment
Glad the CD63 developments are still ongoing! Mine died a death a while back, but there's definitely a huge return on investment with these players.
Cheers,
Phil
LOL
Im just about to swap my Superclock II for a Superclock IIB. Its not cost me anything and apparently the reg and filter is improved on the B version.
Brent