First i want to thank all people that came up here with suggestions.
I got my player back from tech support and all CDRs run flawless
Bad thing is they don´t tell anything exact what they did. All i
was able to detect by watching the parts are some changes on the CD-Board.
Looks like some SMD resistors, capacitors are changed or added
When i find out something i will report.
I got my player back from tech support and all CDRs run flawless
Bad thing is they don´t tell anything exact what they did. All i
was able to detect by watching the parts are some changes on the CD-Board.
Looks like some SMD resistors, capacitors are changed or added
When i find out something i will report.
I don´t know how similar your Marantz and the Philips are but
with Philips CD-Player (723,753 maybe another models as well) it´s known that they can cause problems with CD-R and CD-RW.
The reason are high jitter values caused by high speed recordings on PC´s.
The recommended modification to solve this is to remove R3806 and C2810 on the CD-SL Mk3 board.
Regards
Jens
with Philips CD-Player (723,753 maybe another models as well) it´s known that they can cause problems with CD-R and CD-RW.
The reason are high jitter values caused by high speed recordings on PC´s.
The recommended modification to solve this is to remove R3806 and C2810 on the CD-SL Mk3 board.
Regards
Jens
capslock said:
Slightly off thread:
Well, there you go, capslock, it is widely accepted among
die-hard burners, that 2 or 4 speed audio cd-r's give less problems than their high-speed brothers and sisters.
Hipe? I guess not. But we could start a threat about that in the music session. Or is it digital?
To Wombat: Any pictures?
/Hugo
The quality of my burns is accurate. I burn 4x with my
Yamaha F1. I only use Verbatim (Mitsubishi Chemicals) or
Intenso Black.
The mods Marantz did only made the time for finding the track start
longer. This only happened on tracks i added a 2 second pause.
It seems like the burning programs like EAC and Nero do it a bit
different than exactly at Red Book standard manufactured CDs.
It never had problems with reading any data, just the direkt "Skip"
to a song made problems.
The Philips 753 never made such problems.
No picture, yet. I will do some when i have it open and play around.
Yamaha F1. I only use Verbatim (Mitsubishi Chemicals) or
Intenso Black.
The mods Marantz did only made the time for finding the track start
longer. This only happened on tracks i added a 2 second pause.
It seems like the burning programs like EAC and Nero do it a bit
different than exactly at Red Book standard manufactured CDs.
It never had problems with reading any data, just the direkt "Skip"
to a song made problems.
The Philips 753 never made such problems.
No picture, yet. I will do some when i have it open and play around.
Does the max speed of the raw disk, the max speed of the burner or the actual speed matter (I hope the latter...)?
I read several times that high speed burners with high speed raw disks give cleaner burn patterns (pits) when used at high speed. They also seem to give cleaner patterns than earlier 2x or 4x burners ever were able to burn.
Is jitter at high speed likely to come from the mechanics? After all, rotational inertia at 20x is substantial. Or is it the burn cache that cannot keep up?
Actually, my 20x burned disks run nicely on a '99 Kenwood, a '98 Blaupunkt car player that does not like gold, green and some silver CR-Rs, a Philips CD-931 and a Technics SL-PG 270 with CDM-4 mechanism. Coming to think of it, one disk had similar drop-outs on a friend's fairly new NAD.
I will burn a 48x raw disk at 4x speed and see if the CD-720 will accept it...
I read several times that high speed burners with high speed raw disks give cleaner burn patterns (pits) when used at high speed. They also seem to give cleaner patterns than earlier 2x or 4x burners ever were able to burn.
Is jitter at high speed likely to come from the mechanics? After all, rotational inertia at 20x is substantial. Or is it the burn cache that cannot keep up?
Actually, my 20x burned disks run nicely on a '99 Kenwood, a '98 Blaupunkt car player that does not like gold, green and some silver CR-Rs, a Philips CD-931 and a Technics SL-PG 270 with CDM-4 mechanism. Coming to think of it, one disk had similar drop-outs on a friend's fairly new NAD.
I will burn a 48x raw disk at 4x speed and see if the CD-720 will accept it...
capslock said:
http://www.cdrfaq.org/
The "reference".
http://www.exactaudiocopy.de/eac6.html
Real passionate guys develop the eac software for free.
Looks like they know what they are talking about.
/Hugo
I never pass 4x for Audio CDs
Hi,
I never ever record an audio cd at more than 4x speed.
I just don't feel confortable and I really think that more speed = more jitter.
Some days ago my wife came with a CDR with music she likes, and it didn't play on 2 cd-players I have at home.
It only played on a crappy cheap dvd player that has a dvd-rom internally.
I discovered then that the CDR had been recorded at 16x speed!
It's too much for audio!
The proof for what I'm saying is that one of the cd-players that rejected the disc is a Marantz CD-52 SE (ah, glorious CDM4!) that is heavilly tweaked by me and happened to be "burnin-in" in repeat mode with an 80-minute CDRW!
Yes, he plays CDRW as if they were originals!
But he didn't like that 16x recorded CDR...
It never rejected one single disc.
Hi,
I never ever record an audio cd at more than 4x speed.
I just don't feel confortable and I really think that more speed = more jitter.
Some days ago my wife came with a CDR with music she likes, and it didn't play on 2 cd-players I have at home.
It only played on a crappy cheap dvd player that has a dvd-rom internally.
I discovered then that the CDR had been recorded at 16x speed!
It's too much for audio!
The proof for what I'm saying is that one of the cd-players that rejected the disc is a Marantz CD-52 SE (ah, glorious CDM4!) that is heavilly tweaked by me and happened to be "burnin-in" in repeat mode with an 80-minute CDRW!
Yes, he plays CDRW as if they were originals!
But he didn't like that 16x recorded CDR...
It never rejected one single disc.
Here is already a good thread started.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12010
The first link i provide there shows my Yamaha against other burners.
http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/Articles/Specific.asp?ArticleHeadline=Jitter+Tests&index=0
You can´t do much better than the Yamaha.
btw. another test showed, that the Yamaha even produces better results with
Mitsubishi Chemicals than the Taijo Yuden used.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12010
The first link i provide there shows my Yamaha against other burners.
http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/Articles/Specific.asp?ArticleHeadline=Jitter+Tests&index=0
You can´t do much better than the Yamaha.
btw. another test showed, that the Yamaha even produces better results with
Mitsubishi Chemicals than the Taijo Yuden used.
Hi Eric,
I have this information from a service information and didn´t even have the original schematic so all I know is what it actually says:Omit R3806 and C2810.
What do you mean with chip/pin info?
Don´t you find the named parts?
Obviously the part numbers to the CD720 are different.
Actually I just looked again and the CD720 is different.
I´ll look it up and send you the service info for that one.
Regards
Jens
Hi Jens,
of course the part identifiers are different, but the 720 has basically the same chipset, maybe just an earlier version of it. So if I know what pin of which chipset this RC combination is connected to, I can figure out what the corresponding parts in the CD720 are.
Of course, if you have the service information, this is even better.
Thanks in advance,
Eric
of course the part identifiers are different, but the 720 has basically the same chipset, maybe just an earlier version of it. So if I know what pin of which chipset this RC combination is connected to, I can figure out what the corresponding parts in the CD720 are.
Of course, if you have the service information, this is even better.
Thanks in advance,
Eric
Well, if belongs to an HCU04, this probably means the clock is no longer generated by a gate on the decoder or digital filter, but by a seperate device that does not have 1000 other gates switching on the same substrate and introducing jitter. This is a great improvement over earlier Philips designs! Actually, I don't know any midfi player that goes through the pains of building the crystal oscillator with a separate gate.
It also means I won't find this chip on the CD-720 board
It is strange that a little jitter on the main clock would cause loss of focus or things like that. After all, the servo processors usually run from a separate, asynchronous clock.
It also means I won't find this chip on the CD-720 board
It is strange that a little jitter on the main clock would cause loss of focus or things like that. After all, the servo processors usually run from a separate, asynchronous clock.
The service information I mentioned is just for the 723/753.
That especial fault isn´t mentioned in the service info for CD720.
But there is a similar fault where the CD-Player has problems to focus correctly.
As you´re from germany capslock I will send you the original text cause the descriptions are rather strange sometimes.
Just like serivce and user manuals.
(If somebody else is interested I can translate it of course)
Regards
Jens
That especial fault isn´t mentioned in the service info for CD720.
But there is a similar fault where the CD-Player has problems to focus correctly.
As you´re from germany capslock I will send you the original text cause the descriptions are rather strange sometimes.
Just like serivce and user manuals.
(If somebody else is interested I can translate it of course)
Regards
Jens
Wombat,
I just got my CD6000 OSE LE back from service, the service form says they "changed the capacitor" (is there only one? ).
The problem is that it still cannot read many of my CDRs (I burn them using a Yamaha CRW-70 writer). I still get Error 7, then 10.
I don't know what to do next. Did the service person do the right thing?
Fred
I just got my CD6000 OSE LE back from service, the service form says they "changed the capacitor" (is there only one?
).The problem is that it still cannot read many of my CDRs (I burn them using a Yamaha CRW-70 writer). I still get Error 7, then 10.
I don't know what to do next. Did the service person do the right thing?
Fred
Wombat said:First i want to thank all people that came up here with suggestions.
I got my player back from tech support and all CDRs run flawless
Bad thing is they don´t tell anything exact what they did. All i
was able to detect by watching the parts are some changes on the CD-Board.
Looks like some SMD resistors, capacitors are changed or added
When i find out something i will report.
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