Only one original fails, I get an error message. Its a rock compilation from a petrol station so probably not the best quality anyway.
I have issues so far with maxell CD-RW in that the CD will skip as if it is scratched, usually towards the middle and end of the disc.
I tried a TDK CD-RW with the same issues.
I am going to have a closer loook through my recordable CD's and see if there are any that it will play all the way through.
I have issues so far with maxell CD-RW in that the CD will skip as if it is scratched, usually towards the middle and end of the disc.
I tried a TDK CD-RW with the same issues.
I am going to have a closer loook through my recordable CD's and see if there are any that it will play all the way through.
Then it doesn't seem a cap problem but a scratch problem. When the cap fail, CD is not recognised at all. Anyway, your experience could be useful for other so don't hesitate in sharing your findings.
Mechanical sound when the disc is spinning could be the disc clamp assembly fouling the disc or perhaps the disc height (platter on motor shaft) is incorrect but that's unlikely and in any case is something to be looked at carefully. Its easy to cause more problems.
Also make sure the tray fully completes any loading cycle and is in the correct fully loaded position when playing.
Any fouling (however slight) can easily cause the player to lose lock (the error message) as the servo fails to lock correctly to the data stream.
Also make sure the tray fully completes any loading cycle and is in the correct fully loaded position when playing.
Any fouling (however slight) can easily cause the player to lose lock (the error message) as the servo fails to lock correctly to the data stream.
This is a CDM12.1 laser assembly isn't it ?
Unlikely to be slipping but not impossible I guess. The clamp is magnetic. Also with a disc in place and the player stopped look edge on at the rim of the disc and turn slowly by hand. There should (ideally) be no detectable wobble or run out at the disc rim. In other words the disc should run true. Although it sounds drastic if you just try and slow the disc by hand you should be able to gauge if there is any slippage. The player will stop and throw a fit but you should be able to tell.
I once had a CDM12.4 (similar mech) delivered where the platter was pushed down the motor shaft.
Unlikely to be slipping but not impossible I guess. The clamp is magnetic. Also with a disc in place and the player stopped look edge on at the rim of the disc and turn slowly by hand. There should (ideally) be no detectable wobble or run out at the disc rim. In other words the disc should run true. Although it sounds drastic if you just try and slow the disc by hand you should be able to gauge if there is any slippage. The player will stop and throw a fit but you should be able to tell.
I once had a CDM12.4 (similar mech) delivered where the platter was pushed down the motor shaft.
Image gallery
Hi
This article looks just the thing I need to fix the issue with my CD6000SE. The image gallery link in the wiki doesn't work - any chance of fixing the link so I can see the pictures?
Cheers
John, UK
Hi
This article looks just the thing I need to fix the issue with my CD6000SE. The image gallery link in the wiki doesn't work - any chance of fixing the link so I can see the pictures?
Cheers
John, UK
Hi- I am new to this Forum but the problems I have read here apply exactly to the Ford Focus CD6000 players. They will only play ORIGINAL CDs, CDs created on my PC get ejected with ERROR message or play with jumps every 5 or 10 seconds. Do you think that the CAPACITOR solution will apply equally to my CD6000 Radio/CD player in my car?
Tony
The 'cap fix' is specific to the Philips pickup.
Players in cars use totally different mechanisms and pickup assemblies I'm afraid.
Have you tried using a different brand of disc ? and also try burning at either a faster or slower rate. Faster can actually give better results in may cases despite what you may read. Also try creating a disc on a different PC is possible as a test. Perhaps the lens in the player needs cleaning. That's another possibility because the signal from home recorded discs is not as defined as original disc. If the player is marginal then it might object.
Players in cars use totally different mechanisms and pickup assemblies I'm afraid.
Have you tried using a different brand of disc ? and also try burning at either a faster or slower rate. Faster can actually give better results in may cases despite what you may read. Also try creating a disc on a different PC is possible as a test. Perhaps the lens in the player needs cleaning. That's another possibility because the signal from home recorded discs is not as defined as original disc. If the player is marginal then it might object.
Thank you very much for the info - I have tried some of your suggestions but not all. Will have another go today. Don't hold out much hope though as I have seen that everybody else with these cars have the same problem.
Cheers
Tony
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